Basic Free Energy Device

[Turion]

The next step

And while I am thinking about it, let me throw something else into the mix.
How many of you have actually run a motor on the negatives of two batteries to see what you can achieve when running on the potential difference between two sources of power? (24 volts on one side of motor and 12 volts on the other) What REALLY happens to your primaries when you do this? Does it really extend your run times as I have been saying it can? Does the motor REALLY act as a generator putting out more than it used to run?
Who has tried it with caps? They are a source of power aren't they? Do THEY work as well? You folks who haven't done this need to do it. You need to believe deep down inside that all this is real.

Now think about this....does the rectified output of a generator have a positive and a negative? Come on, does it? Is that a source of power?????? If you add a 12 volt battery do you not have TWO sources of power, both with a positive and a negative that you can run your drive motor between on the potential difference? I'll tell you a little secret. You now have a problem most of you have NEVER has before. You now have TOO MUCH power. You have to put a load on your run battery or it gets TOO much. The problem becomes winding one generator coil that gives you the potential difference you need without blowing up your battery. I have seen it on some of the stuff I have done.

I've given you some information, but here is the big question. If you run your motor on the rectified output of the generator in the manner I have described, does the generator see it as a load? I await your answer. Honestly, I am still messing with this, and would like for a few others to mess with it too. But, can you say looped (self runner)????
Dave

[Turion]

Alvaro,
The coil cores on the current build are iron. Or rather welding rods. I have been experimenting with shotgun shot and with glasmatt cores, both of which SEEM to produce better.

Putting a coil under a dead short by connecting together the two wires from the coil is the same as putting a load on it. And that's what I did. Connect the two wires I mean.

When you have a big generator with several rotors with a bunch of magnets on them and each one is aligned with the iron core on a coil when the generator is sitting still, you are in a position of "magnetic lock" where the magnets do not want to let go of those iron cores and it strains a small motor to try and turn the rotor. Stresses it SO MUCH in fact, that I have burnt up TWO motors on this current prototype, just trying to break that lock when the motor tries to start turning the generator.

[altrez]

And while I am thinking about it, let me throw something else into the mix.
How many of you have actually run a motor on the negatives of two batteries to see what you can achieve when running on the potential difference between two sources of power? (24 volts on one side of motor and 12 volts on the other) What REALLY happens to your primaries when you do this? Does it really extend your run times as I have been saying it can? Does the motor REALLY act as a generator putting out more than it used to run?
Who has tried it with caps? They are a source of power aren't they? Do THEY work as well? You folks who haven't done this need to do it. You need to believe deep down inside that all this is real.

Now think about this....does the rectified output of a generator have a positive and a negative? Come on, does it? Is that a source of power?????? If you add a 12 volt battery do you not have TWO sources of power, both with a positive and a negative that you can run your drive motor between on the potential difference? I'll tell you a little secret. You now have a problem most of you have NEVER has before. You now have TOO MUCH power. You have to put a load on your run battery or it gets TOO much. The problem becomes winding one generator coil that gives you the potential difference you need without blowing up your battery. I have seen it on some of the stuff I have done.

I've given you some information, but here is the big question. If you run your motor on the rectified output of the generator in the manner I have described, does the generator see it as a load? I await your answer. Honestly, I am still messing with this, and would like for a few others to mess with it too. But, can you say looped (self runner)????
Dave

Dave,

I have been working with 2 smaller motors that Matt recommended. I have been running off caps that I charged from my Tesla Switch.




For me I get some drag on the generator when I am running a small load on it. This is going from positive to positive on one motor to run the generator it allready outputs DC power.

When I get a chance I will hook up to the negative's and see what happens.

-Altrez

[alvarohn]

Alvaro,
The coil cores on the current build are iron. Or rather welding rods. I have been experimenting with shotgun shot and with glasmatt cores, both of which SEEM to produce better.

Putting a coil under a dead short by connecting together the two wires from the coil is the same as putting a load on it. And that's what I did. Connect the two wires I mean.

When you have a big generator with several rotors with a bunch of magnets on them and each one is aligned with the iron core on a coil when the generator is sitting still, you are in a position of "magnetic lock" where the magnets do not want to let go of those iron cores and it strains a small motor to try and turn the rotor. Stresses it SO MUCH in fact, that I have burnt up TWO motors on this current prototype, just trying to break that lock when the motor tries to start turning the generator.

I see. I will try today with my little machine but I think that if I short one of the gen coils the rotor stops... maybe because my prime mover is 1 ssg circuit. I have 6 gen coils, they are connected in 3 groups of 2 in series, the 3 groups out of phase So I don't get much of magnetic lock. the cores are iron.

But I will try again, I am very intrested in this thread, thank you guys for sharing.

best

Alvaro

[Turion]

Altrez,
For your setup, what I am saying would be to take the negative wire from your generator output and connect it to the positive side of your motor. Take the negative wire from your motor and connect it to the negative side of a battery. Take the positive side of that same battery and connect it to the positive of your generator.

This would run your motor on the potential difference between the output of your generator and what is in the battery. The battery would quickly charge and could blow up. BUT I doubt that the output of your generator is that much (if at all) higher than your battery, so you may have NO potential difference to work with. And you would never get the setup I described to START running. The generator would have to be turning before you had the potential difference to make it run. With the generator STOPPED, there is no potential difference to start it. Have you measured to see how much DC voltage you are getting? This may not work for you because your generator is so small.

I can tell you right now that if you short one of the coils in YOUR setup, it WILL stop your motor. You are NOT set up with a system that will accelerate under load. You don't have the right relationship between coils and magnets in your generator, mostly because it is a motor!

Dave

[altrez]

Altrez,
For your setup, what I am saying would be to take the negative wire from your generator output and connect it to the positive side of your motor. Take the negative wire from your motor and connect it to the negative side of a battery. Take the positive side of that same battery and connect it to the positive of your generator.

This would run your motor on the potential difference between the output of your generator and what is in the battery. The battery would quickly charge and could blow up. BUT I doubt that the output of your generator is that much (if at all) higher than your battery, so you may have NO potential difference to work with. And you would never get the setup I described to START running. The generator would have to be turning before you had the potential difference to make it run. With the generator STOPPED, there is no potential difference to start it. Have you measured to see how much DC voltage you are getting? This may not work for you because your generator is so small.

I can tell you right now that if you short one of the coils in YOUR setup, it WILL stop your motor. You are NOT set up with a system that will accelerate under load. You don't have the right relationship between coils and magnets in your generator, mostly because it is a motor!

Dave

Dave,

That sounds very interesting and dangerous all at the same time i love it! I will test it tonight while I am running load tests on the Tesla Switch.

When I hooked up the motor to the supercaps the bank was at 7 volts the generator output 29 volts and quickly went down as the super caps discharge rate is insane.

I am also going to set the motor side up to pulse with my PWM tonight and see what happens.



-Altrez

[Turion]

I can run resistive loads off my generator and it will speed up under load, but it will not speed up when an inductive load is connected. I am wondering if running the inductive load between the negatives (Potential between the generator output and battery) will cause the gen to see it as a resistive load rather than an inductive load, and either speed up under load, or at least NOT SLOW DOWN. If either of those two outcomes happens, guess what? You have the secret to unlimited free energy.

Dave

[altrez]

I can run resistive loads off my generator and it will speed up under load, but it will not speed up when an inductive load is connected. I am wondering if running the inductive load between the negatives (Potential between the generator output and battery) will cause the gen to see it as a resistive load rather than an inductive load, and either speed up under load, or at least NOT SLOW DOWN. If either of those two outcomes happens, guess what? You have the secret to unlimited free energy.

Dave

What is the inductive load that you are running?

-Altrez

[Turion]

Another razor scooter motor. If you can run a razor scooter motor as an inductive load that does NOT cause the generator to slow down, or better yet, causes it to speed up, you have a looped system. Of course there are OTHER ways to loop it, and this is what we are doing anyway, but this would be so simple and straightforward that ANYBODY could see it and replicate it. I don't have my gen up and running yet, but it will be one of the first things I try. I just found out yesterday that UPS lost my parts that were on order, so it may take 8 to 10 days to get them and then I can finish the board I need that makes the generator do its thing.

Dave

[altrez]

Another razor scooter motor. If you can run a razor scooter motor as an inductive load that does NOT cause the generator to slow down, or better yet, causes it to speed up, you have a looped system. Of course there are OTHER ways to loop it, and this is what we are doing anyway, but this would be so simple and straightforward that ANYBODY could see it and replicate it. I don't have my gen up and running yet, but it will be one of the first things I try. I just found out yesterday that UPS lost my parts that were on order, so it may take 8 to 10 days to get them and then I can finish the board I need that makes the generator do its thing.

Dave

I wonder if you could make a non inductive cap bank to act as a middleman for the motor it would not need to do more then just pass the energy.



-Altrez

[altrez]

Altrez,
For your setup, what I am saying would be to take the negative wire from your generator output and connect it to the positive side of your motor. Take the negative wire from your motor and connect it to the negative side of a battery. Take the positive side of that same battery and connect it to the positive of your generator.

This would run your motor on the potential difference between the output of your generator and what is in the battery. The battery would quickly charge and could blow up. BUT I doubt that the output of your generator is that much (if at all) higher than your battery, so you may have NO potential difference to work with. And you would never get the setup I described to START running. The generator would have to be turning before you had the potential difference to make it run. With the generator STOPPED, there is no potential difference to start it. Have you measured to see how much DC voltage you are getting? This may not work for you because your generator is so small.

I can tell you right now that if you short one of the coils in YOUR setup, it WILL stop your motor. You are NOT set up with a system that will accelerate under load. You don't have the right relationship between coils and magnets in your generator, mostly because it is a motor!

Dave

Hi Dave,

I ran home at lunch and gave this a try. The motor tried to turn but could not it just twitched. I tried jump starting with another battery but when I let go the motor would stop. I then tried blocking diodes at different locations with no luck.

After thinking about it a bit I wondered what would happen if I left the second battery connected to the motor hooked up on the positive and negative. It seemed to charge the first battery around 100mv's without losing any charge.

After I did that I just tested it hooked up normally and It runs at almost 14 volts from a 12 volt battery.



-Altrez

[Turion]

Altrez,
I really didn't think it would run on your setup.

With a real big generator like mine, I've got all kinds of potential difference to play with. Once it is up to speed and running with that big flywheel turning, I can do switching of different wiring configurations because the generator will still be running and putting out power. My problem right now is I am in the middle of moving, and half my stuff is here and half up at the other place and I have my bench here piled high with boxes of stuff to be moved, so right now I can't really work on much of anything. My generator is on a bench at the back of my buddy's machine shop clear across town, so I really don't have much opportunity to play with it. And it is NOT running right now. I still need to get parts to build the circuit board to run it, and UPS lost my parts shipment so it may be a week or more before I actually get my parts and THEN I still have to put the board together. So I am pretty much a non-builder for the next few weeks. Unfortunately. Which means I will be contributing nothing new. Matt, however, is still getting after it.

Dave

[altrez]

I got the Bedini Tesla Switch DvD's in today!



I will watch them tonight and post a review.



-Altrez

[altrez]

Just watched disk one of the Tesla Switch DvD. John shows a working device and draws the schematic on the white board however there are extra parts on his build not listed on the white board. I am hoping he explains that on disk 2.

It is so far well worth the price.

-Altrez

[Turion]

The motor Matt is showing is an upgrade of his basic modified razor scooter motor plans. I know he is kinda waiting until after the first of the year to put it all out there, but when you have it all in your hands, you're going to have exactly what you need. So if you get a chance you should pick up an MY1016 Razor scooter motor on eBay. You should be able to get one for less than $40.00 INCLUDING SHIPPING if you look around a bit. If not, wait until you can. No use wasting money. They are always for sale there. I have like 14 of them now. For those of you who have never taken one apart, it has 16 commutator sections on ONE commutator, four magnets and two sets of brushes. If you have another motor that meets those specs, you should be able to use it. Get the thing all stripped and ready to wind, and get yourself some #24 wire. Then get ready to have some fun. There are changes to the original PDF for winding the motor, but that's what Matt's keeping under his hat for now as he continues to work on this....always trying to make it BETTER. It's gonna happen guys.
Dave