Basic Free Energy Device

[altrez]

hi altrez.maybe you could use strings of leds and diodes to switch transistors for a bit of regulation.eg 5 bright white leds start to conduct at about 11.6v.
where i live, it's cheaper to buy a led torch and pull it apart than to buy leds individually.
cheers.

Hi Voltan,

Thank you for taking the time to offer some ideas! I have thousends of led's and have worked with them on this project. I just need to decide what the next step is and make that my load for testing



-Altrez

[altrez]

Hi All,

I am still working on the Tesla Switch it has consumed all my free time however I feel that I am making good progress in learning the inner workings of the Device. I got my new Function Generator in over the weekend:



It should be of great help on this project. I did get a transistor working on the switch and it seemed to make a difference in power draw and charging. Lots more work to do on the switch, tons of testing still needs to be done more types of batteries need to be tested as well.

I am placing another parts order and should have it after christmas and that should be enough "I hope" to have something finished up in late January or early February.

I am also buying a PCB etching kit along with a drill press for the circuit board. Going to 3d print a custom enclosure for everything as well.



-Altrez

[altrez]

Hello Everyone,

I got up this morning before work to do a bit of experimenting on the Tesla Switch. The pulsing of the batteries is one of the most important things in order for this to work correctly.

Here is a pic of my crude transistor hook up. I plan to solder it over the holiday.



I am planing on using Thermoelectric generators for heat sinks on all my transistors in hopes to get enough power to run a small IC or LED as a side effect.

Here is a my current testing schematic:



My tests this morning pulse charged battery 3 and batteries 1 and 2 at the same time I watched it on my meters swing back and forth. I have not found the best pulse rate using the 2n3055 yet but it was very exciting to see this basic version in action working.



-Altrez

[Turion]

Who's ready to begin??

The first of the year is fast approaching and we are going to be sharing the modifications to the razor scooter motor that we talked about. This modified motor will run another modified razor scooter motor as a generator, so you need two of the MY1016 motors, some #24 AWG wire, and a way to connect the two together. If you also have something you can use for a flywheel with weights out near the rim, even better. We will begin with the motor, and show you how to measure your input and output so you can see for yourself what we are talking about. Matt has been working on this for weeks, to give you guys something basic and simple that you can replicate that won't break the bank, and can still prove our point.

To connect mine, I am cutting off the threads on the shaft (since they are left handed metric I believe) and rethreading the shaft so that I can use one of the threaded couplers you can get for cheap at Lowes. If it wants to unthread on me while running, I will just drill it and pin it. The pin can be tapped out later if I need to take it apart

Motor, generator, flywheel, switching, run on the 3 battery setup. You will see.

We began this hoping we would get some folks interested in seeing what the most efficient pulse motor they could build would be to use to run this system, and not a single person has put anything forward. We've already shown you the basics of what we've got, with the PDF of how to build the modified razor scooter motor. The winding pattern for this one will be the same, just different wire size than the original PDF, and a couple of other changes. So get your two motors and get them ready to be rewound.

Oh, hopefully this next week I will be firing up my big generator run by the small razor scooter motor and I can show you guys inputs and outputs under load. If it runs without breaking down. It has been one problem after another, but I think I have them all ironed out. There will be some significant changes on the next model, that's for sure!!

Dave

[Zardox]

OK so I do need another one

I had asked before purchased the motor if I needed 2. I got one 350 watt motor and 1100 feet of wire. Should I get another of the same motor and will I have enough wire?

[Zardox]

Thanks - I 'll hang tight for now.

[Turion]

Excited

Matt originally built a two coil gen with rotor etc run by a motor, which is what I replicated and we KNOW works, so our plan when we started this was to have you guys do the same, but Matt has been having some success using the MY 1016 as a gen, so if we go that way, I thought you might want to be prepared. But as he just said, he's still testing that idea and there is no use you spending money if we don't go that way.

Yeah, I do get excited about this stuff when I see it working. Can't help myself. LOL

Dave

[altrez]

Hello All,

I hope everyone had a Merry Christmas! I am still working on the Tesla Switch my power source for the BFED. As of right now I am running 2 LEDs at full power on the switch for the past 6 hours without losing any voltage on the batteries.

I am testing with 3 6volts for now but the key here is the LED's are running at full brightness verified with a lux meter and again not using ANY thing from the batteries.

I will let it run all night and see what happens. I figure that I will lose a few tenths of a volt due to normal discharging,



-Altrez

[voltan]

hi all.i got this yesterday.a 1.5mm allen or hex key allows removal of the base and removing a circlip allows the separation of the rotor with a surprisingly hefty pull,definitely neos.it's probably a cheap clone.it turned out to be delta wound.i took off all the original windings and rewound 2 opposite stator poles,1 cwise,1 ccwise because 14 magnets means the wound poles face a north and a south.i haven't got it to run yet,but it seems like it's close to wanting to run.i think i need signal amplification or a darlington setup or mosfets and drivers.i really want to avoid having to use sensors.if none of that works i might have to hook another motor up to it to get it started and running with iso trafo switching.a big rubber band around the drum and a similar drum fitted to the starter motor should be ok for testing,then face to face direct drive if it's got some potential.the thermofan motor might be a good candidate as a starter/generator.with 12 stator poles i can wire this for up to 6 phases,each with 2 opposing coil cores.maybe i could use a tiny magnet and some string for a pull start.if that works then the rc motor could be a motor-gen.will see what i can do with it anyway.
cheers and happy new year everyone.

[altrez]

Hello,

Looking over this thread its clear I am a spammer lol I am still working very hard on the Tesla Switch for the Basic Free Energy Concept and I don't want to clog the thread with posts when Matt and Dave are getting ready to release what is sure to be a great pulse motor.

I am going to make a new thread just for the Power source as it will most likely take the better part of a year to get something workable for me.

I will check back often!

Keep up the great work everyone!!!!!!!!



-Altrez

[voltan]

hang on altrez.if i'm not mistaken we are all here to build a proof of concept device that confirms that you can use the same power twice by driving a load and charging a storage device or even better adding spike recovery and generation to collect more than you put in.you can have your cake and eat it too if you do it right.it's an awesome thing that isn't taught or mentioned in text books or any old school type form of media.yay for the internet.
with your equipment,determination and openness i think your input here is plenty relevant.i sometimes think i might be making too much static,but then it's probably ok until dave and matt have finalized their setup.i hope so anyway.
cheers.

[Turion]

I agree. The 3 Battery or 4 battery setup is REQUIRED as one of the ways to minimize losses. You need to put all these pieces together to get the best end product. It isn't bad to be focused on that one piece. If we had MORE folks concentrating on the different parts of this we could put them all together and be done!

[altrez]

I am not leaving the thread at all! I am just not going to post so meany updates to keep the chatter down That is why I started the other thread. at each milestone I will post everything here for my peers to review

-Altrez

[voltan]

hi all.we have ignition.it needs 15v or more to start,and a casual flick get's it going.at .4 of an ohm dcr it likes the juice.too much for the transistors i been using.i might change the winding from awg 29 to thinner enam copper wire.
i haven't got a timing light set up yet,so i may make some changes to this circuit once i can see what the timing is like.it doesn't have much torque at this stage.i might need to add more windings.hopefully i can get it to run with dual iso trafo's down the track.the caps are .47 uf.
cheers.
p.s i just got me some tip122's to try.
ok.more revs and torque but the large heatsink still gets very hot very quick.the motor rotor get's hot too. i guess 18 v into .4 ohm = lots of amps=lots of heat.
time for a rewind...and a beer.
*with hindsight the circuit below is more suited to higher current less turns less bemf signal,like a much bigger motor might have,hence 2 stages.for any brushless pm motor with more turns,more dcr and more bemf signal, read on or check other circuits i have posted for a simpler circuit to try.different motors need different circuit tweaks to start easy and run nice from say 6 - 30v.
cheers twice.

[Cadman]

My motor arrived today. Confirmed it to be a 4 pole. Got plenty of wire.

Dave, Matt, I'm still holding on

Cheers and happy new year.