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  • Originally posted by shylo View Post
    Hi WTM, I have a battery that did the same thing awhile back. I still have that battery and still use it. Were you trying to put charge into? I was using the motor to turn a smaller motor and was feeding the front battery with charged caps and blocking diodes so the battery could only accept cap dumps.
    But then I changed things around trying different stuff and haven't seen it since.
    Sorry not much help just to let you know.
    artv
    Thanks artv,
    I put the charge to the neg post of good and bad batteries where the prime mover (stock my1016) is connected.
    I'm coupled to a larger my1016 modified to Matt's specifications. The only reason I even post is the strange 200+ ac ~ -80 ac spikes that come off the back of the generator end cap. I'm measuring between the end cap and negative of bad battery.

    I've never seen that long a run without any drainage on the good battery. Then bang it dropped that suddenly.

    Is this normal? Or better yet is anything normal with this 3BGS or the 2BGS I'm using???
    wantomake

    Comment


    • confused

      Hi WTM, I'm a little confused by your description, you have the motor connected to the grounds?
      A drawing would help.
      To me it is 2 good batteries in series , paralleled with a dead battery, the positive post of the good bats , and the positive of the dead battery, for the motor connections.
      1+...motor, 1-...2+,...2-,...3-,...3+,...motor.
      3 being the dead battery
      artv

      Comment


      • Radiant charging a battery is not good?

        Charging a battery from inductive collapse (bemf) seems to alter the charging capacity or chemistry.

        That was the conclusion found from John Bedini and is early chargers
        now he uses capacitive discharge in his battery chargers.

        Comment


        • capacitive discharge

          Hi Dfortune, At what capacity value, at what voltage, and at what time frame?
          Thanks artv

          Comment


          • Battery charging

            There are hundreds of battery types and voltages but from what I understand
            20 to 25 % over the rated value (Voltage) should be fine.As for the amp and duty choose components so that the battery does not overheat (120 deg.F +/-)
            My undestanding of electronics is limited hence I cannot give you precise values.

            To your success!

            Comment


            • Originally posted by shylo View Post
              Hi WTM, I'm a little confused by your description, you have the motor connected to the grounds?
              A drawing would help.
              To me it is 2 good batteries in series , paralleled with a dead battery, the positive post of the good bats , and the positive of the dead battery, for the motor connections.
              1+...motor, 1-...2+,...2-,...3-,...3+,...motor.
              3 being the dead battery
              artv
              Hey artv,
              Will get that drawing posted , just having problems. My kindle not made to do so.

              Sorry,
              wantomake

              Comment


              • Thanks for the answers , I'm finding that charging a battery ,with just a few volts higher ,low amperage , longer time, gives the battery alot more run time.
                I just wonder if the amps can be reduced ,next to nothing?
                But I could be wrong.
                artv

                Comment


                • Drawing

                  Originally posted by shylo View Post
                  Hi WTM, I'm a little confused by your description, you have the motor connected to the grounds?
                  A drawing would help.
                  To me it is 2 good batteries in series , paralleled with a dead battery, the positive post of the good bats , and the positive of the dead battery, for the motor connections.
                  1+...motor, 1-...2+,...2-,...3-,...3+,...motor.
                  3 being the dead battery
                  artv
                  artv,
                  Here is best I can do sorry for the crude drawing.

                  KINDLE_CAMERA_1422823770000.jpg

                  Comment


                  • Hi Wtm, I haven't seen this yet. I did something similar last year, didn't pan out.
                    What are the 2 arrows pointing at each other, between the bridge and the trans. 2ndary?
                    Also you have both dc outs of the bridge going to neg, bad and good bats?
                    Is the negative of the good battery more or less positive , than the dead battery?
                    You might be wasting half your output??
                    I have the parts will try and do a setup.
                    Whats the M , Matts design?
                    Whats the gen design?
                    Thanks ....artv

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by shylo View Post
                      Hi Wtm, I haven't seen this yet. I did something similar last year, didn't pan out.
                      What are the 2 arrows pointing at each other, between the bridge and the trans. 2ndary?
                      Also you have both dc outs of the bridge going to neg, bad and good bats?
                      Is the negative of the good battery more or less positive , than the dead battery?
                      You might be wasting half your output??
                      I have the parts will try and do a setup.
                      Whats the M , Matts design?
                      Whats the gen design?
                      Thanks ....artv
                      artv,
                      Will answer in order of questions.
                      Spark gap.
                      Yes. Same connections for the stock motor. Or you can connect to the good battery only to charge it.
                      As for this setup- the neg of good battery is negative and neg of bad battery is positive connect for the stock motor which is prime mover.
                      You mean output from the generator or the good and bad batteries?
                      M means stock motor.
                      Generator is Matt's design.

                      I've gotten 4-6 hour runs from this 2BGS. I have tried many different variations with principle idea.

                      Hope this helps.
                      wantomake

                      Comment


                      • Slow progress

                        I have managed to wind the motor, I think.

                        See attached photos show my efforts so far, can anyone spot any deliberate mistakes before I epoxy it, as afterwards it is obviously more difficult to re-wind.

                        Looking forward to moving forward with this project.

                        Mike

                        IMG_0698[1].jpg

                        IMG_0692[1].jpg

                        IMG_0695[1].jpg

                        Comment


                        • Rewound motor...

                          Originally posted by Matthew Jones
                          Just make sure to check your continuity, through the contacts on the commutator. Other than looks good.

                          I would like to hear some results of the motors running, speeds and current draw at given voltages to see if the pattern is holding consistent.

                          Matt
                          Greetings:

                          I wound one of the MY1016 motors yesterday using 4 strands of litzed #26, I think, gauge wire that was left over from something or other. (Was hanging from the rafters and seemed like a good idea at the time.)

                          Hooked it to 12VDC to see if she'd play and it ran. Ran slow, but was steady. Figured to test at higher voltages and then try the UFO pulser. Will note voltage, speed & current next go 'round.

                          Got sidetracked fighting snow.....

                          Will wind another motor with larger diameter wire .... gotta remember where its buried.

                          glen

                          Comment


                          • multiple strands

                            Hi Glen, I've found when winding parallel , if they short to each other, it will cause slow rotation and heavy draw.
                            You are probably shorted somewhere.
                            I wound Matts with ~17 guage , a single strand,all I had, but my windings amp draw is too high. Need to find some wire.
                            I think slip rings for each individual set of coils, instead of a commutator, is whats needed.
                            Commutators' always have overlap, unless you leave a blank.
                            The blank is too big. And they should not mix.
                            As one coil is dropping, the next has to be climbing.
                            Climbing creates an opposite reaction, dropping creates an opposite reaction.
                            They have to work together. It's the same as Matts' Bouncer.
                            Sorry just getting sidetracked.
                            artv

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by RUE

                              I bought one according to Matts specs. It is a 4 pole my1016 280 watt.
                              I hooked it up to 24v and the rpm was about 3600 with an amp draw of 2.1.
                              I stuck a couple of neos on the sides of it and the rpm went to 18600 with an amp draw of 2.8. Pulled the neos back off and it dropped back to 9500.
                              Joe. R.
                              I have a couple stock motors I can try this with. Where did you place the magnets?

                              Dave
                              “Advances are made by answering questions. Discoveries are made by questioning answers.”
                              —Bernhard Haisch, Astrophysicist

                              Comment


                              • RUE,
                                Matt asked me to replicate what you had going, since I have three or four stock MY1016 motors lying around. I did this morning and posted a video to YouTube for him. I did get the stock motor (12 volts) to speed up with the magnets on the outside, but the amp draw did not go up. I haven't posted it because I hate revealing how stupid I am at times. I had my meter on the wire incorrectly, so I had a negative amp reading, plus I said something like "You can hear a visible difference" which makes NO sense at all. LOL. Anyway, Matt suggested I post it, so I will. I opened the case and used a piece of masking tape (centered on the magnets) to show me where the magnets are when the case is closed. As you will see, when I have the magnets CENTERED on the interior magnets, the amp draw didn't go up. When I reset the magnets at the end and they weren't perfectly centered, the amp draw DID go up. A couple other folks should give this a shot, and then I will try it with the modified motor and see what happens.

                                I spent the entire day today working in my new shop to just try and get organized. But I just have too much stuff. I don't have enough room to put it all. My new shop is 10 by 23 and my old shop was 8 x 10, and all this crap was in the old shop, so I don't understand why it won't all fit in the new one! I think there must have been a hidden black hole in the old shop that let me store stuff in a different dimension or something.

                                Motor - YouTube
                                Last edited by Turion; 02-22-2015, 12:38 AM.
                                “Advances are made by answering questions. Discoveries are made by questioning answers.”
                                —Bernhard Haisch, Astrophysicist

                                Comment

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