Basic Free Energy Device

[John_K]

Looks great Matt. Thanks for sharing

John K.

[Matthew Jones]

Hi Matt,

thanks for sharing. There is one thing i would like to say, the rotors seem to be out of perspex (plexiglass), if so please be very careful and never stay in front of the running machine. I had a muller type motor a few years ago that had a tiny little crack in the perspex right next to a magnet. At some point I ran it at very high speed. All I heard was a very loud boom and that was it. I can still see the signs on the wall, ceiling and furniture where the magnets hit, evenly spaced out like from a machine gun. I found one magnet deeply encased in a LA battery! Fortunately I always had the motor standing on the bench sideways, otherwise I wouldn't be here writing this lol. Since then I only used aluminium or other types of plastic material for my rotors. Perspex is just too brittle.
I even had more space between the magnets and the outer rim than you do, I know you're no fool and know about the danger, but I just thought I need to say something..

cheers,
Mario

Mine is Polycarbonate, not acrylic. About 20 times stronger on par with aluminum and doesn't shatter. Its what makes bullet proof glass, bullet proof.

But even at that I stay out of the way.

Pretty much using Acrylic for anything structural is a mistake. Its for ornamental parts only.

Matt

[Mario]

Matt, that's good to hear

cheers,
Mario

[desa]

Hi Matt.
That is really nice little gen. love to see specs. I could probably build it just from what I see but would prefere to have all the info knowing how inportant is to balance it all together. I am at 0 point with my setup. Whatever I use to run I make on output. This little addition could put it over the edge. I would be looking forward to your PDF to start. One thing if possible can you give me magnets dimensions,, it takes time to deliver so I could order right away.
Thank you, and keep it coming your contribution is greatly aprisiated.
David.

https://youtu.be/yjT-KHowI6I

So here is a little video of the gen running. Shows some of its potential.
In actual fact is I have one coil that is short of wire and it is bogging down the gen under load about 140 rpms. But I'll get that fixed.
Overall the motor is cranking out really well at 5000+ rpms with gen at idle at 25 volt 3 amp. The gen is putting out 80+ volt open with no load.

The great thing about this little setup is the gen peaks its its current while running the motor about 8 volt (1500 rpm) and after that it winds up the voltage. All generators may be like that I am not positive. But at high rpms you get small voltage drop and all your current is available.

I am pretty positive now that I know the current draw of the motor under load I can get the driver going and least cut that in half.

Dave's version of the gen is speeding up under load at least at the moment without rectifying the output. He'll be home next week to add the rectifiers.

I hesitate to put out any literature on the gen until he tested his. We are also going to have results on a different build of the same model.

So before the gen is published I hope to have the motor driver running.

Stay Tuned.
Matt

[Matthew Jones]

Hi Matt.
That is really nice little gen. love to see specs. I could probably build it just from what I see but would prefere to have all the info knowing how inportant is to balance it all together. I am at 0 point with my setup. Whatever I use to run I make on output. This little addition could put it over the edge. I would be looking forward to your PDF to start. One thing if possible can you give me magnets dimensions,, it takes time to deliver so I could order right away.
Thank you, and keep it coming your contribution is greatly aprisiated.
David.

As soon as I settle on everything I write it all up for everyone. I just want to make sure I am putting out good info without plans changing.

Matt

[jim glinski]

pdf

Hi Matt
Looking forward to your PDF too ! Sounds good with every one replicating some little up grades may form .reminds me of bedini's first motor a little . I sure could use it I'm off grid and I'm learning about not having enough of power within this I could get a small refrigerator and keep my lights on in the winter .summer's not a problem . retired and loved to work on things got the time .yours is the only one I've seen that might work out OK with out some strange thing putting it out off reach. Good hunting Matt .did you know the name Matthew means a gift from God ? Might just happen !

[Sawt2]

Test Board

This is the test board i have made for the 3bgs, it has two boost converters, a pwm and bolts to make the connections to. I've made jumper wires from military 12 gauge wire and alligator clips. The board allows me to try some different combinations without having to mess with the little connectors on the boards. I do have another pwm to mount if needed.image.jpg the motor is a 19 volt motor off an actuator.

[Matthew Jones]

This is the test board i have made for the 3bgs, it has two boost converters, a pwm and bolts to make the connections to. I've made jumper wires from military 12 gauge wire and alligator clips. The board allows me to try some different combinations without having to mess with the little connectors on the boards. I do have another pwm to mount if needed.[ATTACH]18106[/ATTACH] the motor is a 19 volt motor off an actuator.

Cool. I would add one thing. Use shotkey diode if you can and root it between the negative lead of the motor back to the battery. That might allow for a better recovery on the motor if your using the pwm. The pwm might have one but it will open things up more.

It would be nice to see how it works out.

Matt

[Sawt2]

Cool. I would add one thing. Use shotkey diode if you can and root it between the negative lead of the motor back to the battery. That might allow for a better recovery on the motor if your using the pwm. The pwm might have one but it will open things up more.

It would be nice to see how it works out.

Matt

Is there something significant about a shotkey diode? I have some really beefy diodes that i could use, they have a threaded stud on one end and an eylet on the other.

[Matthew Jones]

Shotkey has a low voltage drop. Something like .3 at full current. So if its rated at 5 amp or something and you passing 1 you might see a tiny drop in voltage. But every bit helps.

But if you have something else handy that might be worth trying.

Matt

[Sawt2]

Shotkey has a low voltage drop. Something like .3 at full current. So if its rated at 5 amp or something and you passing 1 you might see a tiny drop in voltage. But every bit helps.

But if you have something else handy that might be worth trying.

Matt

Thanks, i did go ahead and order a few shotkey diodes, however i also have the ones i mentioned and i found a few ultra fast diodes i had purchased a while back, so ,yes, i will give them a try till the shottkeys show up. On sunday i was trying some variations on the board i showed earlier and after about 2 1/2 hours of " using and abusing" my little 2.9 ah batteries, they ended .02 volts ( all 3 batt. Total voltage) less than when i started, ( tested after 20-25 min rest) interesting thing was, that it was my primaries that had the gain, batt 3 lost a little. I actually was wondering if a diode would help, so i felt pretty good when you mentioned trying it. My big batteries should be ready in about a week or so, i am looking forward to experimenting with them, although i sure can't complain about my little ones, they have performed amazingly well in the various 3 bgs scenarios i've put them through.

[Sawt2]

Cool. I would add one thing. Use shotkey diode if you can and root it between the negative lead of the motor back to the battery. That might allow for a better recovery on the motor if your using the pwm. The pwm might have one but it will open things up more.

It would be nice to see how it works out.

Matt

I also wanted to ask which battery you are referring to? And pos or neg of battery?

[Matthew Jones]

I also wanted to ask which battery you are referring to? The motor neg goes to pos. Of batt 3. The motor positive goes back to the pos of batt 1, via the pwm and the boost.

Back to battery 1. The other way would allow the motor to run.

Matt

[Sawt2]

Back to battery 1. The other way would allow the motor to run.

Matt

I think i was editing while you were posting, i went and looked at my setup and i described it wrong. The boost is between the positives, the boost feeds the pwm and the pwm goes to the motor.

[Matthew Jones]

I think i was editing while you were posting, i went and looked at my setup and i described it wrong. The boost is between the positives, the boost feeds the pwm and the pwm goes to the motor.

Depend on how the PWM hooks up cause technically it should ground on battery 3 as well. So if thats the case the diode Anode (Input) should go on the motor ground hookup and back to battery 1.

Attached is an image of the schematic for the Motor Controller which is just 1 step past what you are doing.

Matt