Basic Free Energy Device

[Mario]

My problem now is the output of the generator seems to only meet the demand. Connect to a battery, it only outputs 12 volts 2.3 amps. Connect to a 300 watt light, it outputs 60 volts DC at 2.3 amps.

2.4 seems to be max amp output. And Open voltage is 257. I have seen 257 at 2.4 amps when connected to a battery bank, but I did NOT get the speed up under load during that experiment.

Still lots of things to figure out. I wish I was an electrical engineer. Of course then I would know this couldn't possibly work so would never have tried it in the first place. oh well.

Hi Dave,

I've seen the same kind of response, I don't mean your cop, but the fact that the higher the impedance/resistance of the load, the higher the output power, while amps don't change much. What changes is the input power.

What I would do to get the full picture of what your machine does I would do the following, although I'm sure you've done it already.

Use FWBR+big enough CAP on output. This makes out power easier to measure. The best load for this test of course would be a high power variable resistor, but different fixed resistors or lamps on a switchbox will work too.

The idea is to make a graph with the IN/OUT power curves at different load resistances along with RPMS.

OUT power curve will go from lowest (shorted coil or lowest resistance) to highest, then lower again (towards infinite resistance load)

IN power curve will go from lowest (acceleration under shorted output), up to a MAX, then down again to the point of highest or infinite resistance, basically an open coil condition.

Once the graph is made you should be able to find the point where the COP is highest by comparing IN versus OUT curve, sort of a bell curve.

Say you find that you get the highest COP when a given load resistance gives you 150 VDC on your cap. If your final desired load is a battery bank you could then put them in series to match the desired output voltage of aprox 150 V.
Or you could use a high efficiency DC-DC converter with adjustable output for a desired load, be it a battery bank or something else, and load it in order to have the input of the converter (or gen output cap) set at aprox. 150 V.

Just some ideas...

cheers,
Mario

[Turion]

Thoughts

I have a light board that holds eighteen 300 watt bulbs with switches for each. AC switches don't work so well for 257 volts of D.C. Though!! Boom! They can be wired in series or parallel. I have been experimenting with that. When I connect one 300 watt bulb to a pair of coils, they light up, but the machine does not speed up under load. It doesn't speed up with two connected in parallel. It DOES speed up with three connected in parallel, but the light is so dim with 3 bulbs (900 watts of load) that you can't even tell they are on. I haven't measured the voltage output with that configuration. I guess I should. So I have lots of things to try to prove the output.

For me, the proof of success is in the data, and until I have voltage and amperage output UNDER LOAD to compare to input voltage and amperage, I won't be inviting anyone to replicate this machine as it is just too expensive. Right now I'm not entirely sure how much of the 257 open volts DC is REAL, as I haven't found a load that will use that much voltage.

Dave

[sprocket]

Turion, kudos to you on your (aborted) attempt to get the folks at Project Avalon to think outside the box. Unfortunately, they've got this 'mutual mastrubation' thing going on there, where they are nearly all of the one opinion. Anyone that dares to stray too far from that deemed acceptable, find themselves 'Retired' by its Admin in short order - something that happens on an all too regular basis! Their Members-only setup means that with this kind of intellectual inbreeding, things can only get worse there! The fact that not one of them seemed aware of your presence on all the major FE forums and the work you've done over the years, pretty much sums them up.

For my part, about 8 years ago, I stumbled across the same capacitor experiment you posted about, and resolved to see how far I could take it. I decided to go the super-cap route, tie them together with latching relays, whose switching would be done by a PIC. I also wondered if the 'equalised' capacitors could then be connected in series via the relays/pic, thus restoring the original voltage and extend things at least one 'equalisation' longer. All came to naught however - the $200 worth of caps I bought turned out to be garbage, leading me to abandon the project.

But your PA thread got me thinking about something similar someone posted in this very forum about 1-2 years ago. It had to do with the fact that 2 capacitors, charged to the same voltage and connected in series -++- will have zero volts across the 2 negative leads. He then went on to say "but did you know..." - what exactly I cannot recall!! - but thought at the time "Wow, now that's cool, I didn't know that!", so immediately tested if it was true. It wasn't, or at least it didn't do what he claimed it did. Anyway, your PA posts got me thinking about this again, so I spent about an hour searching for it in the forum yersterday, in vain as it happens. Just wondering if anyone knows what thread this was posted in here?

[j dove]

info for sprocket

Turion, kudos to you on your (aborted) attempt to get the folks at Project Avalon to think outside the box. Unfortunately, they've got this 'mutual mastrubation' thing going on there, where they are nearly all of the one opinion. Anyone that dares to stray too far from that deemed acceptable, find themselves 'Retired' by its Admin in short order - something that happens on an all too regular basis! Their Members-only setup means that with this kind of intellectual inbreeding, things can only get worse there! The fact that not one of them seemed aware of your presence on all the major FE forums and the work you've done over the years, pretty much sums them up.

For my part, about 8 years ago, I stumbled across the same capacitor experiment you posted about, and resolved to see how far I could take it. I decided to go the super-cap route, tie them together with latching relays, whose switching would be done by a PIC. I also wondered if the 'equalised' capacitors could then be connected in series via the relays/pic, thus restoring the original voltage and extend things at least one 'equalisation' longer. All came to naught however - the $200 worth of caps I bought turned out to be garbage, leading me to abandon the project.

But your PA thread got me thinking about something similar someone posted in this very forum about 1-2 years ago. It had to do with the fact that 2 capacitors, charged to the same voltage and connected in series -++- will have zero volts across the 2 negative leads. He then went on to say "but did you know..." - what exactly I cannot recall!! - but thought at the time "Wow, now that's cool, I didn't know that!", so immediately tested if it was true. It wasn't, or at least it didn't do what he claimed it did. Anyway, your PA posts got me thinking about this again, so I spent about an hour searching for it in the forum yersterday, in vain as it happens. Just wondering if anyone knows what thread this was posted in here?

Hi Sprocket,

Was reading your post and I remember seeing that also. It on the Garry Stanley pulse motor thread. It was posted by Garry Stanley. Also on the dual oscillator Light using three battiers thread. Post #12. Hope that helps you out.

Jeff

[SkyWatcher]

Hi all, Hi sprocket, maybe this is what you are remembering.

"You all seem to still be looking for output either from this or using this as a drive unit so perhaps you can understand it using batteries ...take 2 1.5 volt penlight cells or whatever you have and place them in series ... this will show you 3 volts on your meter check each one to make sure its 1.5 and then put them back together with the 2 + heads touching and measure across the - ends and you get nothing yet both batteries still retain their 1.5 volts ...an interesting thing happens if you then add a third battery to this line ...no matter which way round you add it you still get 1.5 volts because you have now unbalanced the original 2 batteries...
this leads to something you might want to give a go and that is when charging batteries always start with 0 volts ...you do this by ...if you are using 3 x 12 volt cells ...you get another 3 and place them in the line but backwards so you have +-+-+--+-+-+ totaling to 0 volts this means every single volt you produce from your charging device in either direction is more than your battery pack has and therefore is collected as charge eg you now only need 1 volt to have enough to charge a 36 volt pack.
Put meters on both sets when charging and you will always see one set start to rise even with the smallest amount of output.
Hope this helps some of you.
Garry "
peace love light

[sprocket]

j_dove, SkyWatcher, thanks, that's the one! The thing I found with this is that while one battery set will take a charge, it will be at the expense of the other set, which will be discharged by an equal amount. I was testing with electrolytic caps, but I think batteries should be the same. Pity, I was hoping to have my cake & eat it! Thanks again for lifting the veil, I really should bookmark things of interest more often!

[j dove]

j_dove, SkyWatcher, thanks, that's the one! The thing I found with this is that while one battery set will take a charge, it will be at the expense of the other set, which will be discharged by an equal amount. I was testing with electrolytic caps, but I think batteries should be the same. Pity, I was hoping to have my cake & eat it! Thanks again for lifting the veil, I really should bookmark things of interest more often!

Hi Sprocket,

I tested it also but on batteries and it is just as you said.


Jeff

[sprocket]

Hi Sprocket,

I tested it also but on batteries and it is just as you said.


Jeff

Good to know. The only thing I found interesting while playing with this idea was that the charging capacitor would charge to a much higher voltage than I would have anticipated - and if memory serves, doubling its voltage would quadruple the energy stored in it. Don't recall if I was managing a double - or even what my charge-voltage was! - but for what turned out to be a non-event, I found it marginally interesting.

[jim glinski]

6 volt ves 12 volt

Turion
Some time back I texted you concerning what might be the way for me to set up a system and at the time you recommend I use three six volt large golf cart batteries .hers my question why the six volt vers the twelve volts that you all are researching with ?? What's the reason or difference in use here ?? Large I understand but voltage not so much ? I'm looking for batteries now and as they are one of the pillars of the concept I would like to get it close to right .thinks for your input Jim .

[Turion]

jim,

Cost is only one reason I mentioned getting three 6 volt golf cart batteries. Using a DC to DC voltage controller, you can up the voltage if you want to. (although you don't need it because the modified Matt motor will run on 6 volts, slowly, but it will run. GOOD 6 volt deep cycle batteries are upwards of $100 each, so three of them will set you back a chunk, and you are FAR better off getting the 6 volt deep cycle golf cart batteries because of the QUALITY. They are made for this stuff. They are meant to be charged and recharged and charged and recharged. And when you put two in series you have 12 volts, so later on they are still completely practical if you move up to 12 volt potentials and can afford more batteries. I have over $2,000 invested in batteries and all the success I have had has been with the deep cycle 6 volt golf cart batteries. So I feel confident recommending them where I have NO experience with the other. I have used a TON of 12 volt auto batteries and garden batteries (250 amp hour) and they just do not perform like I want a battery to perform with this stuff.

[jim glinski]

Thanks turiun good point
Was thinking along the same line but needed a second witness .I have a source for used six volt golf cart bats .and was going to try a little desulfation on them .knowing there are several ways to go with this system .has anyone done a PDF .on the general over lay yet ? Or something like that ? . now another question ..given a tuned setup and a full charge on the two series batts .about how many times do you think you might be able to recycle that first charge ..before needing to refresh them .this idea of optimizing the energy is great .can be worked on adjusting for max effective outcome as a on going project . I know this is a lot of speculation im sorry I just get excited thinking about the possibilities . could you see what this might mean for electric bikes ??? Extended range .using lithium !! Jim

[jim glinski]

Turion

Turion where would you put an inverter in the system to run something small like a 60 watt refrigerator ? Thanks Jim

[Turion]

answer

Run it between the primary battery bank and the secondary battery bank. Once the secondary batteries are charged up, run off them, or switch the batteries around. Remember, you can't exceed the C-20 discharge rate for your batteries, so make sure you have enough in parallel to support a 60 watt load.

[jim glinski]

Turion

Thank you for your reply .what ever happened to Matt ? Long time no hear .he farms doesn't he .might be the busy season for him .

[Turion]

Matt

I have no idea what is going on with Matt. I have called and left messages, sent e-mails. No response. Kinda worried, but I did see he made a post on one of the threads a few weeks back, so I assume he is alive and kicking. He may be just tied up with the farm until winter. Time will tell I guess.