Originally posted by scratchrobot
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Gerard Morin Energy
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hybrid solution
[QUOTE=BroMikey;281477]Pancake motor generators video shows no external connections.
Also use a large flywheel Gerard.
well the hub is made thick as a flywheel is.
[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=50bD1rljYv0[/VIDEO]
Why not use a Tesla turbine, Tesla homopolar generator or a unipolar motor as a flywheel?
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Here is a fella who has built a motor and a generator with magnets
that is all one piece back 20 years ago. Just a 2 minute clip. He was
threatened, his patents were stalled till none of his work ever surfaced.
Listen to him as he talks enthusiastically how his invention will be hitting
the market.
He also describes how he built his magnetic motor genny so as to
eliminate all cogging of the magnets. I suspect some form of cancellation
is at work.
[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4DRTv9rS_JY[/VIDEO]Last edited by BroMikey; 10-26-2015, 01:34 AM.
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Amplidyne
Motor generator power amplification system sweet!!
[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PwedoZZHadY[/VIDEO]
First, let me say that we ran this for hours earlier. We checked all the voltages, 240 volts from each leg. off the generator. He was leaving and I asked him if he wanted to do a video, he said sure but he really needed to go.. We had no time to hook up all the meters again. Wyatt and I tested that machine all morning with our own meters. The load is the motor on the floor.
I realize the video was short and no volt meters were on it but I got what I got before he left. He was tired and didn't want to do it anyway.
He will be back and when we do it again it will be done right. If it's a scam Wyatt and I don't see it nor could I disprove what he showed us.
It's modeled after an amplidyne 404 Not Found...
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Naysayer
Originally posted by bistander View PostIt is clear on the video that the clamp meter is set to read AC Amperes. There does not appear to be a setting on that meter for DC Amperes. This is not uncommon because the method and hardware in the instrument is quite different between AC and DC detection and DC is more costly so cheaper meters often do not include DC Ampere capability.
You can see the selector dial set to 66 A~. That means 66 Amperes AC full range. You can also see AC on the left side of the meter's viewing screen confirming it is set to AC.
When he clamps around the battery cable, the meter isn't lying, it is simply reading the AC component of the current in the wire or ripple and not the DC Amperes. The instrument appears to be working properly. It is an operator error; using the incorrect instrument. citfta explains this in his post.
It would be interesting to know more about these guys and why you appear to trust them yet discredit universities so often, even later in that post.
biHope die last!!!
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Originally posted by peper10 View PostI have checked the difference it can make to read DC or AC on a DC output and that level of power is not so disparate compare to reel DC reading..
I do not understand what "that level of power is not so disparate compare to reel DC reading" means. Can you reword that?
Thanks,
bi
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good measurement examples
Originally posted by BroMikeyHere we go again, just gotta pet everyone or they are falling apart.
No you are not sharing, or you would have already done it.
More strategy.
The Motor Generator systems are not new so stop attacking Gerard
and all of the name calling that goes with it. Sure I get irate when
folks speak condescendingly.
You got a bone to pick or a subject to bring out, say on but stop
all of this puckering up. Chin up. There now I gotcha!!!!!!
Come on Ben show me what you got.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YBiIkdsCErA
HITBY 13KW surely knows how to do proper measurements.
This guy also knows what he is doing
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t6ucFJJGSmc
BTW do you still have these transformers and the 'very special OU generator'??
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I have been following Mr. Morin's builds as shown in his youtube videos. And I am trying to replicate his motor. I have acquired a washing machine motor that is similar shown in Mr. Morin's videos. I want to put the same sensor he is using in his motor. And he said he is using an ATS 177 sensor. But when I searched on line, I could see at least 4 different listings: ATS177-PG-A-B, ATS177-PL-B-A, ATS177-PG-B-B, ATS177-WL-7-B. Does someone know which one of these sensors Mr. Morin is referring to, or is it something I did not list here all together. Thank you very much in advance.
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Originally posted by interestedngreen View PostI have been following Mr. Morin's builds as shown in his youtube videos. And I am trying to replicate his motor. I have acquired a washing machine motor that is similar shown in Mr. Morin's videos. I want to put the same sensor he is using in his motor. And he said he is using an ATS 177 sensor. But when I searched on line, I could see at least 4 different listings: ATS177-PG-A-B, ATS177-PL-B-A, ATS177-PG-B-B, ATS177-WL-7-B. Does someone know which one of these sensors Mr. Morin is referring to, or is it something I did not list here all together. Thank you very much in advance.
Best of luck
Ben
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Originally posted by interestedngreen View PostI have been following Mr. Morin's builds as shown in his youtube videos. And I am trying to replicate his motor. I have acquired a washing machine motor that is similar shown in Mr. Morin's videos. I want to put the same sensor he is using in his motor. And he said he is using an ATS 177 sensor. But when I searched on line, I could see at least 4 different listings: ATS177-PG-A-B, ATS177-PL-B-A, ATS177-PG-B-B, ATS177-WL-7-B. Does someone know which one of these sensors Mr. Morin is referring to, or is it something I did not list here all together. Thank you very much in advance.
Hey Green
I'll have to go back and look at the name of that company that Gerard
ordered a controller from but anyway that company told him to use a
number that didn't work. Gerard had to move it over 15 poles I think it
was. I work on these household washers at my business here are some
hall sensorswasher motor sensor | eBay
That is all that they are. And as far as your circuit type is concerned you
have not listed one so this makes it impossible to determine compatibility.
It's not really a big problem getting them to run on almost any sensor if
you experiment a little. Unless you can recreate the original circuit, trial and
error is your best solution.
All of the new smart drive circuitry is of course proprietary. You will get
no where calling an engineer at those firms. However common sense
dictates that certain hall effects sensors existing on the open market
have a general use listed in their sales literature or simple go buy the
rated values listed say at DIGIKEY or MOUSER or NEWARK...........
you get the idea.
Ratings such as voltage, frequency will leave you with very few to chose
from. The link I posted is off ebay.Last edited by BroMikey; 10-28-2015, 02:22 AM.
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Originally posted by Ben2503 View PostNow look at this again
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YBiIkdsCErA
HITBY 13KW surely knows how to do proper measurements.
This guy also knows what he is doing
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t6ucFJJGSmc
BTW do you still have these transformers and the 'very special OU generator'??
about these setups. He has one also and has gotten 4X out of his.
Something about having changed the grounding arrangement but most
folks don't feel safe doing that. So it is not an above board
recommendation unless you have are a very advanced engineering
specialist.
Same with all HV. The answers are there, I refuse to bottle feed
nubees
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BroMikey, Thanks for the reply. I actually have not bought a speed controller just yet. In fact that is one of my questions. By now, you can tell I do not know very little about controllers and matching sensors. But I can tell you, I will be involved by experimenting on my own. And your sharing your knowledge will be a tremendous help to me. So my next question is, how do you choose or what do you look for in a speed controller? Thanks again.
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Originally posted by interestedngreen View PostBroMikey, Thanks for the reply.
Basically any 3 channel PWM circuit. Circuits for washers are designed
for delivering bookoo power and are set to one frequency and one voltage.
What we need in the most advanced setup is a Variac fed 120vac 60HZ
send that to a bridge rectifier, then on to 3 separate PWM circuits that
have frec adjust as well as duty cycle. Use a 3 stage pot for each
control so all 3 circuit can be throttled together.
Not so easy.
That is the way it is best done to explore the full potential of those
pancake motors. As far as finding a plug and play, the first thing you
see on ebay are those high dollar VFD or "Variable"--"Frequency"--"Drive"
Find a 120vac VFD and this is better in some respects because a PWM
is only pulsed DC where the VFD is a pulsed DC above and below the zero
line. Like a darlington circuit does. Also known as a ZVS.
The problem with a standard VFD is that they don't move on frec's
very far at all, something like 400hz center line and up and down a few
like 50hz + or-, not really sure but they don't move far.
There is more to look at than people think. You need a modified sine
wave which is better to run winding than a pulsed DC normally.
Another brain storm brings forth the best of the best, a 3 Phase
H-Bridge Mosfet module controlled by a 3 phase controller.
Some where along the line a feedback loop to the controller is setup
to regulate current so a run away condition does not damage the motor.
Also don't forget your personal safety, then also the motor stability under
varying loads.Last edited by BroMikey; 10-28-2015, 08:33 AM.
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Originally posted by interestedngreen View PostSo my next question is, how do you choose or what do you look for in a speed controller? Thanks again.
You could take a look on CAPTAINSSBN work. He is working on that, maybe you could find somethingh there. He's an very experienced constructor.
regards
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I really appreciate the responses to my inquiry about speed controllers and sensors. I appreciate all of you who are willing to share your knowledge and information with me. I will continue to monitor this forum for more specific information and helps for my quest to replicate Mr. Morin's motor. For the meantime, back to work. Thanks again BroMikey and Podova.
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