Gerard Morin Energy

[BroMikey]

Let me just set this one straight.
This thread is called "Gerard Morin Energy", so there can only be one who knows all about it, which is Gerard Morin himself.
I am not suggesting in any way that he is "the ultimate free energy guru".
But Gerard is the one that this thread is about, and no one can explain better what Gerard is doing than Gerard himself.
It is like having a Tesla thread and Tesla joins in. What more can you wish for?
If you read "distaste" in my post, you read it wrong, because that is most certainly not intended.

Let me just leave it here.

Ernst.

Hi Ernie and Hitby

Great deal guys, keep doin the wild thing Hitby, to bad if everyone else is getting a hairball over your success story. I am thrilled to see foot number 23 on the north south axes where the voltage jumps up to almost 9V after many decreases.

i would have normally expected that after 20 plus foot of earth the energy would drop but it went back up.

Rejoice ladies and gentlemen rejoice and most of all go outside the box.

Hitby my main man does it again

@BroMikey, Thanks for posting this schematic of my test setup.



@Gerard – Great to have you join in on the forum, looking forward to seeing your latest information on the 3 phase motor.

@Team – The attached video explaining the basis of this latest test and the attached data have made us reach one main conclusion, “That we need to conduct the test again” with better instrumentation and at different times of day/night. Always more to do next time as we learn. At this time I don’t know if this is the direction to take the team, (so no one needs to follow me) it is a little side trip that I feel is a needed diversion, but now with Gerard on the thread you all can reproduce his work whenever I’m on one of my side trips.

Enjoy: This test was inspired by Kurt’s kdkinen’s Radiant Oscillator circuit https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pDXKnk9hFMI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QoYDbHhbaNY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8pAFraojih4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RfERagBlLYI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SETDfvB4kwA and testing from three years ago.

[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cmuJ15K69Zw[/VIDEO]

Data from test follows:
N S Poll
00 10.88
01 10.18
02 10.20
03 10.35
04 10.25
05 10.22
06 08.61
07 08.50
08 08.43
09 08.55
10 08.35
11 08.66
12 08.46
13 08.57
14 08.60
15 08.46
16 08.09
17 08.50
18 08.65
19 08.69
20 08.70
21 08.66
22 08.57
23 08.95
24 08.50
25 08.54
26 08.12
27 08.26
28 08.46
29 08.08
30 07.95
31 07.83

E W Poll
00 09.92
01 08.15
02 08.80
03 08.75
04 09.05
05 08.85
06 08.60
07 08.64
08 08.75
09 08.60
10 08.54
11 08.70
12 08.50
13 08.48
14 08.70
15 08.75
16 08.12
17 08.10
18 07.95
19 05.40
20 04.20
21 0
furthor readings lower than meter used could display
22 0
23 0
24 0
25 0
26 0
27 0
28 0
29 0
30 0

Hitby13kw

[BroMikey]

New tests coming. Twin receiver pigs and one transmitter pole.

Among many other tests coming with the goal in mind to use

Small units till a decision can be made on OU.

I don't know right off but a darlington pair big

enough for a line transformer should be an interesting

set of toggles

[wantomake]

Darlington pair base

Great video Hitby,
I've been testing different setups (nothing worth posting) with this Kurt Radiant oscillator circuitry and have found that if I connect any other part of the circuit to ground it burns one of the 2n3055 transistors. Of course the two grounds are close to each other.
Only 12 feet apart.

I noticed in your setup, the ground(water pipes) to base is some distance away.

Am I creating a loop of some sort that burns the transistor? With the setup the same as Kurt's, the transistors both stay cool. Anyway will try what you have in the video.

Very interesting,
wantomake

[wantomake]

updates

Just quick update.

For some reason any way I connect a ground to this setup it burns out one of the Darlington pair. Maybe my shop is too close to house power lines? No idea.

wantomake
PS: placed the ground to base of Darlington pair away from shop and power lines.

[Hitby13kw]

Just quick update.

For some reason any way I connect a ground to this setup it burns out one of the Darlington pair. Maybe my shop is too close to house power lines? No idea.

wantomake
PS: placed the ground to base of Darlington pair away from shop and power lines.

@wantomake,

Sorry your having trouble, you are correct the ground that is driving the base of the Darlington pair and the ground that is getting the high voltage pulse are to close to each other.

It doesn't take much to drive the base of the first transistor, take about 50 to 100 feet of insulated wire (any gauge) and just lay it on the ground, connect one end to the base of the first transistor in the Darlinton pair, leave the other end of the wire open. This will supply enough of a captive coupling to the earth to start the oscillation but no direct connection to let the high voltage burn out your transistor.

I tried this on my setup and it works, let me know if it works on yours.

Hitby13kw

[vidbid]

Perhaps, you could run this experiment.



Possible, overunity experiment.

Source: Vladimir Utkin's Free-Energy Secrets - March 2012

[BroMikey]

Yes that is on the horizon VIDBID

The remake on the picture is good showing the internal bridge and cap of the LED light. The spark gap experiments will also come in time.

Telsa wanted to transmit power wirelessly so the experiment we have is using the earth as a wire and more than one receiver station will be needed to
get OU. Well that is my conception.

I see it being done other ways as well, there is no right way it seems.

[wantomake]

Fun experiment

@wantomake,

Sorry your having trouble, you are correct the ground that is driving the base of the Darlington pair and the ground that is getting the high voltage pulse are to close to each other.

It doesn't take much to drive the base of the first transistor, take about 50 to 100 feet of insulated wire (any gauge) and just lay it on the ground, connect one end to the base of the first transistor in the Darlinton pair, leave the other end of the wire open. This will supply enough of a captive coupling to the earth to start the oscillation but no direct connection to let the high voltage burn out your transistor.

I tried this on my setup and it works, let me know if it works on yours.

Hitby13kw

Thanks Hitby,
I'm headed back to RS to get more parts. I should've stopped after the first transistor smoked. But while I had those wires and rods in the ground I got a thought about using the earth as a conduit for energy.
If you don't mind just words for now. I'll attempt to explain and share.

My shop ground is a 8 foot copper 1/2" pipe. I walked south exact with compass and iPhone app. About 15-20 feet. Drove a 1/2 diameter x 14" long piece pvc with duct tape to keep water out, at that spot. Placed a 12" galvanized landscaping nail into it with wire attached. Then went due west exactly and hammered piece 1/2" x 2 foot copper pipe in the ground with wire attached.

Connected north grounding pipe to positive of two LA marine batteries connected in series. Connected negative to southern nail in pvc. Then connected meter To this negative and positive to the pipe due west.

The 24 volts of batteries were going to the due west stake and the southern stake via the earth. Due west stake is 15-20 feet away from the northern ground pipe. But the meter shows the west stake charging up to the battery voltage. I placed caps to catch this voltage and dumped it via a 555 timer(and car relay) into one of the charging batteries. Which of the two was at only 8.99 vdc when I started this fun finding.

That was last night, So I let it run all night. Checked at 9:00 am. This is the reading I have. Not much but it is interesting.

2 x 12 volt batteries = 21.36 volts @ 5:30 pm last night
22.43 volts @ 9:00 am
From batteries to earth = .011 amps input
From timer to one battery =.700 amps output
Battery being charged = 8.99 vdc @ 5:30 pm last night
10.06 vdc @ 9:00 am
Sorry for all the rambling. I thought this was interesting.

Since the southern stake is not touching the earth.
Thoughts. Sorry no video or pictures. Is this worth that kind of posting ??

wantomake

[Hitby13kw]

Thanks Hitby,
I'm headed back to RS to get more parts. I should've stopped after the first transistor smoked. But while I had those wires and rods in the ground I got a thought about using the earth as a conduit for energy.
If you don't mind just words for now. I'll attempt to explain and share.

My shop ground is a 8 foot copper 1/2" pipe. I walked south exact with compass and iPhone app. About 15-20 feet. Drove a 1/2 diameter x 14" long piece pvc with duct tape to keep water out, at that spot. Placed a 12" galvanized landscaping nail into it with wire attached. Then went due west exactly and hammered piece 1/2" x 2 foot copper pipe in the ground with wire attached.

Connected north grounding pipe to positive of two LA marine batteries connected in series. Connected negative to southern nail in pvc. Then connected meter To this negative and positive to the pipe due west.

The 24 volts of batteries were going to the due west stake and the southern stake via the earth. Due west stake is 15-20 feet away from the northern ground pipe. But the meter shows the west stake charging up to the battery voltage. I placed caps to catch this voltage and dumped it via a 555 timer(and car relay) into one of the charging batteries. Which of the two was at only 8.99 vdc when I started this fun finding.

That was last night, So I let it run all night. Checked at 9:00 am. This is the reading I have. Not much but it is interesting.

2 x 12 volt batteries = 21.36 volts @ 5:30 pm last night
22.43 volts @ 9:00 am
From batteries to earth = .011 amps input
From timer to one battery =.700 amps output
Battery being charged = 8.99 vdc @ 5:30 pm last night
10.06 vdc @ 9:00 am
Sorry for all the rambling. I thought this was interesting.

Since the southern stake is not touching the earth.
Thoughts. Sorry no video or pictures. Is this worth that kind of posting ??

wantomake

@wantomake, You must be joking to ask that, You bet is !!!

You started with batteries that were drained a bit, and 16 hours later they had more - that is a very positive result and you should be proud to post it, Great work !!!

Charging batteries with earth currents is not the main topic of this thread but it is related and you are also actively trying to follow and reproduce what I’m doing with the ignition coils so my guess would be BroMikey would not have any issue with it (or I’ll bet he would start a new thread for you if that’s what you wanted) Again Excellent Job, Congratulations.

Your text discretion was good, but if you also give a picture it can help to remove any question or ambiguity that someone has in their mind.

Keep doing good things

Hitby13kw

[wantomake]

Barbosa and Leah

Thanks Hitby,
As you stated, hope Bromikey is ok with being off subject here.

And no don't want to start a new thread on this subject. It's very interesting to see the increase in power from the earth. I did get my setup going again, but removed one car coil and pumped the voltage through a fwbr then into the earth. The return DC voltage (600_800) was crazy but low amperage. Able to lite a gutted cfl but just for experimental fun.

Then looked at new thread from Level on the Barbosa and Leah builds from the OU site. Amazed and happy to see the similarities of Kurts circuitry and what we are trying with ground currents. Clarence said it cost around $2000 to build, but I always try to build the "poor man's version".

Sorry again for being off subject here,
wantomake

[Gerard_Morin]

Small Update guys. I see some questions, I can't get to them right now sorry. Have to go. But here is the update.

Hi everyone. Today we did a test, finally to get the motor spinning. with an RC control. However, the stator I am working with, is wound every 6 legs. The difference on the timing, is definitely a different timing. It jumps 5 legs, and then you wrap the 1st leg.. etc.. many of you will know this.

So my timing is off in the first phase of testing, with the stator and the controllers. So now I am working with either changing the controllers timing, or the stators, or re-winding the stator to match everything else.


So if anyone is testing those Rc motors, make sure that your stator is every 3 legs, not every 6.

The stators you see the videos out there, are all 3 leg windings on their stators..

[BroMikey]

Small Update guys. I see some questions, I can't get to them right now sorry. Have to go. But here is the update.

Hi everyone. Today we did a test, finally to get the motor spinning. with an RC control. However, the stator I am working with, is wound every 6 legs. The difference on the timing, is definitely a different timing. It jumps 5 legs, and then you wrap the 1st leg.. etc.. many of you will know this.

So my timing is off in the first phase of testing, with the stator and the controllers. So now I am working with either changing the controllers timing, or the stators, or re-winding the stator to match everything else.


So if anyone is testing those Rc motors, make sure that your stator is every 3 legs, not every 6.

The stators you see the videos out there, are all 3 leg windings on their stators..

Hi Gerard

Good to hear you chime in and give us all the low down on your project. Naturally we want to see you succeed and hope you get the parts you need.

I wanted to share what Patrick Kelly posted about high voltage like in you line pole experiment.

Here it is. Keep us up to date and we all have high hopes that your machine will produce the extra.

I know that the information seems elementary yet this is something i wanted to find for sometime now. Double the voltage and you get 4X the power.

http://flyer.thenetteam.net/teslacoilsback.htm

[Gerard_Morin]

I'm finding that It's not that simple to find off the shelf controllers and Bruhless motors, they run with their own programs, but it's not 100% efficient. When a brushless motor makes ANY kind of noise, hissing, humming, screaming, anything.. vibrations, it means they are not tuned. The voltage is too high for the frequency, or the frequency is too high for the voltage. Which is nearly impossible with the technology we have to today to make it run 100% efficient.

This last weekend, I discovered a way to tell the motor, tell you what it wants for each RPM, at 100% efficiency. Which means this motor will run 100% efficient if it's tuned, and each rpm is calibrated from 0 - 100,000 rpm. It should make absolutely no noise, except air displacement. And this gives you 100% efficiency for your motor. It should not run on amperage, it should run on very sharp square wave, high voltage, so you have a perfect discharge from your stator legs, of Ether, NOT electromagnetic field. This is the magic of having a motor that is 1000% over-unity.

[BroMikey]

I'm finding that It's not that simple to find off the shelf controllers and Bruhless motors, they run with their own programs, but it's not 100% efficient. When a brushless motor makes ANY kind of noise, hissing, humming, screaming, anything.. vibrations, it means they are not tuned. The voltage is too high for the frequency, or the frequency is too high for the voltage. Which is nearly impossible with the technology we have to today to make it run 100% efficient.

This last weekend, I discovered a way to tell the motor, tell you what it wants for each RPM, at 100% efficiency. Which means this motor will run 100% efficient if it's tuned, and each rpm is calibrated from 0 - 100,000 rpm. It should make absolutely no noise, except air displacement. And this gives you 100% efficiency for your motor. It should not run on amperage, it should run on very sharp square wave, high voltage, so you have a perfect discharge from your stator legs, of Ether, NOT electromagnetic field. This is the magic of having a motor that is 1000% over-unity.

Hi Gerard

I know a few guys who search for resonance based on current drop and of course the voltage climbs, by making a feedback loop. The sensor watches current draw and stays at the lower current setting.

Some I talk to use programs but I don't think that is necessary, as long as you have some form of hunting mechanism to compensate for a wide range of variables such as room temp, winding temp, voltage fluctuation from whatever source you have chosen.

The winding every 3 positions is good to know if I get into one. I have a dozen of those motors from washing machines that are flat like a pancake.

If turned manually they produce or generate 260 volts.

Mikey

[BroMikey]

In the picture shown by Patrick Kelly years ago an ignition coil
fires a spark gap then going to 2 mini telsa coils or in our case
pole pig transformers. Read how Nick used 24 watts to get cold
electricity out. He also confirmed that doubling the voltage, quadrupled the power output


http://flyer.thenetteam.net/teslacoilsback.htm