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Bucking Coil Inverter

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  • #31
    Nice work SkyWatcher… Tiny coils, tiny battery & big light!

    By the looks of it, it’s just using just a single AA battery? (Just check to see if it still works if you remove the tiny magnets holding the leads to the battery). Does the feedback coil, feedback from the primary or the secondary coils?

    Perhaps preserve this proto-type - make it look cute and tidy, mount it in a nice housing or small box. The housing could be made and the LED bulb mounted on top and make for a practical desk lamp.

    Make further refinements with proto-type 2. Make an identical one and make it work just as well. Un-make it and measure the lengths of wire for each coil etc. Then some calculations can be made, perhaps then optimised even further.

    Then try slowly up-scaling?

    It’s kind of like a tiny little cosmic induction generator?
    "Doesn't matter how many times you kick the coyote in the head, it's still gonna eat chickens". - EPD

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    • #32
      Hi sputins, thanks for the kind words and good suggestions.
      It's a lithium ion cell, salvaged from a lap top battery, 3.7 volts typically, though i was using one that was a little discharged, 3.5 volts.
      It is fairly efficient, when compared to the flyback ferrite core i have in a lamp, though this design keep in mind, the input lowers when loaded.
      Though to get a better idea, i will use a sensor from a solar garden light and compare with it plugged into wall power.
      peace love light

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      • #33
        Hi folks, i tested the light output using the sensor from the solar led light.
        It showed that this setup as it is now, is outputting half the output compared to plugged into the wall.
        And at 2.15 watts, that is 105 lumens per watt, not terrible, but not great, whereas 3 watts should be needed for this light output.
        It was drawing less current before, though this battery has a little more voltage and before it was using only one wire from each secondary coil, so maybe I'll try that again.
        Again, the whole point of the opposite wound secondaries was to see lenz not reflected back to the input and this does exhibit that.
        I think what you are saying sputin, is that this can probably be tweaked for much higher efficiency with the right core (probably closed core) and other variables.
        peace love light

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        • #34
          Hi sputins, just realized i didn't answer you completely.
          The feedback is from the primary or the trigger wire of the bifilar.

          I went to home depot tonight and bought 4 more of the 6 watt ecosmart 40 watt equivalent led bulbs, to make some tests.
          I wired 3 in parallel and they all light to good brightness and the amp draw stays exactly the same as with one led bulb, .62 amps at 3.47 volts.
          Each bulb is not as bright as one, though with the sensor, whem using just one bulb, as said, it is 50 percent the brightness of it powered from the wall.
          Though with 3 in parallel, each led bulb is 30 percent of full brightness, though we have 3 being lighted to such brightness, so it's outputting alot of light, meaning more efficient.
          I am surprised the amp draw is remaining so rock soild, though i never really hooked multiple led bulbs in parallel before with circuits like these, so i can't say it isn't normal.
          Also, the 3 bulbs are being powered from one wire from each secondary coil.
          Your thoughts welcome.
          Here is a pic of them lighted.



          peace love light
          Last edited by SkyWatcher; 01-09-2015, 06:11 AM.

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          • #35
            Okay I think I understand, kinda like the Bedini bifilar trigger. Thanks for the clarification.

            I’ve got the ferrite cores, the transistor, a battery and the wire…

            I might just have to build one too!

            (Yeah I meant before certain optimisation could be done, there may be an optimised length of secondary or core type and size, how many windings on the primary (impedance) etc. But starting with something that works well is always good!

            Nice to see now three LED’s illuminated!
            "Doesn't matter how many times you kick the coyote in the head, it's still gonna eat chickens". - EPD

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            • #36
              Hi Sky.
              Did you try to rectify the output and charge a battery with it?

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              • #37
                Hi folks, Hi wist, no i have not tried charging a battery with the secondaries output, i don't think i have a battery here with a high enough voltage.
                Unless i put a few lithium ion in series to try and charge.
                Do you think i should test that wist?
                peace love light

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                • #38
                  hi Sky
                  using the same coil I mentioned earlier with the secondary layed on top of the primary (only the half of secondary that is in same direction) I was able to recharge a 3.6v battery using a single 1.5v AA battery, I have 2 3.6v batterys that are the same, (from inside old monitors) I am currently trying to recharge the second from the same AA battery
                  first battery now reads 3.6v so will be interesting to see what the second will read before the circuit dies?
                  first battery read 2v and second battery reads 1.5 before charging
                  Gav

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                  • #39
                    Hi Sky and Gav!
                    With my replication (the same as Gav but with a 10k pot not a 50k) i rectify the output with an homemade fast switching bridge rectifier, 4 x uf 5408.
                    I use 2x aa battery as input (near 3,2v) at the output i can read around 140vdc... As i said before im not able to light a 120v led before or after the bridge... But i plug the output on a 12v powerbox battery that read 12,50v.
                    The next morning i unplug everything and my input aa battery read near 1,7v and my 12v bat read 12,76v!! it's quite surprise me... but at the end of the day my big battery read 12,52...
                    Anyway, just to see the input power drop when a load is connected to it, say there is moore to investigate...
                    Ciao!

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                    • #40
                      Hi wist, thanks for sharing, i've never had much luck with blocking oscillator flyback, when trying to charge a higher voltage battery from a lower voltage battery.
                      Though a capacitor dump might work better in that case.
                      Other wise, using a higher voltage input battery, like 1.2-2 volts over and only using the flyback with one diode, would probably work best.
                      Wist, are you observing the reduced input current under load?
                      peace love light

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                      • #41
                        Hi folks, ok this is just an update and refresher.
                        I hooked the 3 parallel led bulbs to only one partnered secondary coil, the one directly underneath the bifilar primary and it did not light any of the bulbs and the amp draw increased a bit, from .91 amps to .93 amps at 3.88 volts.
                        Then, hooked one particular wire from each secondary and they lighted to good brightness and the amp draw lowered to .67 amps.
                        So, my next experiment will be to add another layer of 30awg. wire over each separate partnered secondary coil, so as to gain more voltage to see if the led bulbs can be lighted to a higher output level and see what happens to amp draw.
                        This way, i will not have to unwind the existing secondaries and only have to unwind the thicker wire bifilar.
                        Your thoughts are very welcome.
                        peace love light

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                        • #42
                          Efficiency Update

                          Hi folks, adding the additional coil layer to each separate partnered secondary coil has increased efficiency.
                          All 3 led bulbs are lighted to a higher brightness level and it can be detected with the eyes and the sensor proves this as well.
                          The sensor is showing that each bulb is 34 percent of full brightness, previously it was 30 percent.
                          The input has lowered as well, at 3.88 volts-.59 amps or 2.29 watts, previous watt input was 2.6 watts.
                          I'm not entirely sure how the light units compare with my sensor readings, though if we calculate 34 percent of full brightness per bulb, that works out to aorund 153 lumens per led bulb.
                          That works out to 459 lumens or around 200 lumens per watt.
                          I wonder how much more efficient this would be with a more closed ferrite core, like a typical tv flyback core.
                          Anyway, so far, this seems to be one very efficient setup.
                          Imagine if those 140 lumen per watt tubes were used, this setup could output 850 lumens or 371 lumens per watt.
                          peace love light

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                          • #43
                            Skywatcher

                            Have you tried running your load in between the secondaries, and earth grounding one end of your secondaries, while using an aerial capacitance on the other end?
                            William Reed

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                            • #44
                              Skywatcher
                              It might also be advantageous to put a single capacitive plate on the free end of each secondarie coil just like Tesla did.
                              Last edited by rosehillworks; 01-10-2015, 09:15 AM.
                              William Reed

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                              • #45
                                Hi rosehill, i have powered the led bulbs between the secondaries, one wire from each secondary as posted previously and it is wired that way now.
                                Though i have not run a wire to ground off other end or an aerial off other end of other coil.
                                Thoguh that sounds like a good experiment.
                                Do you think 30 awg. magnet wire would be enough for these ground and aerial connections. I have a big roll of that wire size and could run it outside i think, through door and close door, it's very cold here now.
                                peace love light

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