Bucking Coil Inverter

[brian516]

I decided to just take a picture to show you what type of ferrite I have available to me.

[IMG][/IMG]

If someone can tell me how to insert thumbnails from photobucket into the post so I could stop taking up so much space with my pics, that would be great, too... Thanks!!!

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, Hi brian, i would try a simple straight ferrite rod or sleeve to start with.

You can easily remove the flyback cores by boiling water, then drop the whole assembly into the boiling water for awhile, then you will be able to easily pull the cores out, or it will be easier i should say.

I just made another ferrite bead device, just like what wistiti just made, it is not exactly following Chris sykes designs, though it sure is giving interesting results.
Using the same 4 ferrite beads inline, one full bifilar layer of 24awg. and two 30awg. partnered coils wound on top, meeting exactly, snugly at the center.

Though i think Chris suggests keeping the bloch walls separated a bit, you can try both ways and see what changes.

The current does drop from no-load 125 miiliamps down to 110 milliamps under 120vac 6 watt led bulb load at 3.95 volts input to oscillator.
And when partnered coils are shorted, current draw lowers to 70 milliamps.
It is wired same way as wistiti's latest build.
Just picked up a NTE389 npn horizontal output transistor for the impulser, seems to work well.
Your pictures seem fine to me, though i use GIMP to resize images.
peace love light

[Wistiti]

Hi Brian!
Nice ferrite choice you have there! Many hours of happy experimenting in front of you!
For your first test i will sugest the same as Sky (on a ferrite rod with joule thief trigger coil ov er or under the bucking output coil) It is easy to do.

If you have frequency generator of some kind and an audio amplifier; try as Chris(EMJunky) show. Single wire primary around 100t and bucking partnered secondary around 400t. Put a small load on the output , give some volume (power) to your audio amply putt a dmm across the load to read the voltage output and play with the frequency (for me square wave give max) Start at low as 40hz and ad 10 hz at the time until you find the max output... For me it depend of witch device i use but it is betwen 90hz and 550hz. Mi best result until now is this way. But i have blown my audio amply. So make sure you protect it by putting a fuse betwen the audio amply and the primary coil.

Anyway play with it it is the better way to learn" oh! yes! and the most important; do it with a smile!
Ciao!

[Wistiti]

Hi folks, Hi brian, i would try a simple straight ferrite rod or sleeve to start with.

You can easily remove the flyback cores by boiling water, then drop the whole assembly into the boiling water for awhile, then you will be able to easily pull the cores out, or it will be easier i should say.

Thank you Sky! i was wondering how to put appart the ferrite out of a tv flyback. I will do some cooking!

[brian516]

So what I'm doing at the moment is making my own tube out of fiberglas to make spools for my wire, so I am able to remove them from whatever core I start with and try others as well. I went with 5/8" I.D. for my tube since it will work with most of the ferrites I have, and will fit on many common sized ferrite rods, tubes, flyback cores, etc. (had to make my own tube because I can't find anywhere that has 5/8ID and I want a snug fit, so 3/4 wont work)

Quote from Pg 2 from EMJunkie at OUR forum:

Requirements are:
Loose Coupling (Leakage Inductance)! One has to let the Magnetic Fields Build other wise the device will be Choked off if you like.
Reasonable turns: 200 on each Partnered Output Coil Approx (18-22) Approx 40-60 Turns on the input (28-32) Approx
There are no real limits on the device, many variations exist and I have not by any means test them all..
Frequency: Floyd Sweet said to Walt Rosenthal 60 - 400Hz - I have seen 20 - 600Hz is the approximate range.
Many other effects are seen at other frequencies.

I am going to go with exactly that, and use 20awg on the partnered coils, and 29awg on the primary.

?#1 --Should I wind my primary on top of one side of my secondary? I am thinking about, after winding my secondaries, measuring, and then finding or making another tube to wind my primary on so I can slide it back and forth on top of the secondaries.

?#2 --How does one loosely couple the primary from the secondaries when using a solid ferrite rod? Or 3 ferrite tubes from filters (halves glued together to produce 3 tubes instead of 6 half tubes) ?
Or even the flyback core?
From what I am seeing/reading, when using a laminated core, loosely coupled means that the laminations aren't smashed together tightly. In order to get the same effect using ferrite tubes or or a flyback core, the only thing I can think of one doing would be to put gaps between the joints. Am I correct in thinking this?

Wistiti -
I do not have a standalone function generator at this time, and I haven't yet learned how to use my Arduino Yun or Mega 2650, so I will be using a function gen software from my pc, into a Yamaha stereo amplifier, and to my device.
This should work for the time being, correct?? I really cannot wait to order my touchscreen for my Arduino and learn how to use the sucker!! I also wouldn't mind getting my hands on one of John Bedini's high quality linear audio amplifiers, but that's out of the question!!

Thanks for all the help!
Sorry for all of the questions! I just want to do this correctly!!

I promise no more questions until I have some results to share!

Oh, and Wistiti.... I made sure I sang little jingles and drank a lot of coffee while I was fiberglassing! Now to wait for my spool inners to dry..... research time!
Brian

[voltan]

hi brian.we haven't identified optimum geometry or turns or core choice etc. yet.
over time, as more people have a go and post findings we should get a better idea of what works.
to me loosely coupled sounds like a tube or rod. this doesn't close the loop like a transformer core does, and only having the primary/ies on 1 side adds to the definition. also there is some suggestion that magnetism drops off in ferrite material as the distance from energized windings increases. adjustable coils sounds like the way to go eventually too.
and hi all. a blocking oscillator is enough to get started as well. i'm starting to see better efficiency numbers with the simple setup below. i'm powering the partnered coils directly with no step-up, with this though i can direct the spike energy to be in series with the power source to boost the output a bit. by taking the bulb to cap - lead off the cap and connecting the bulb to the - rail,emitter.

*notably, swapping the connections on 1 sec winding,so north meets north,or s-s, in the middle of the core, does not drop the output much. definitely bucking coils. i don't think an iron core would have much if any output driven like this. also maybe mounting splatter coils or a pancake coil perpendicular and central to the core axis might yield some output being right over the pinch zone.
next to try the secs in series, both ways, n-s and n-n in the middle of the core, with different cap and diode combinations on 1 sec. they are 18 ohms dcr each, less of that might be better for these experiments. not sure.

[Wistiti]

My answer below...

So what I'm doing at the moment is making my own tube out of fiberglas to make spools for my wire, so I am able to remove them from whatever core I start with and try others as well. I went with 5/8" I.D. for my tube since it will work with most of the ferrites I have, and will fit on many common sized ferrite rods, tubes, flyback cores, etc. (had to make my own tube because I can't find anywhere that has 5/8ID and I want a snug fit, so 3/4 wont work)

Quote from Pg 2 from EMJunkie at OUR forum:


I am going to go with exactly that, and use 20awg on the partnered coils, and 29awg on the primary.

?#1 --Should I wind my primary on top of one side of my secondary? I am thinking about, after winding my secondaries, measuring, and then finding or making another tube to wind my primary on so I can slide it back and forth on top of the secondaries.
(Dont know... you have to test it...)


?#2 --How does one loosely couple the primary from the secondaries when using a solid ferrite rod? Or 3 ferrite tubes from filters (halves glued together to produce 3 tubes instead of 6 half tubes) ?
Or even the flyback core?
(If you use an alredy split core, like tv yoke, flyback, ..., just test it by splitting by hand and look to the power is going at the output until you reach the max. "but before you have to find the best frequency" when you find the best gap; fill it with some tape/paper and fix everything.)


From what I am seeing/reading, when using a laminated core, loosely coupled means that the laminations aren't smashed together tightly. In order to get the same effect using ferrite tubes or or a flyback core, the only thing I can think of one doing would be to put gaps between the joints. Am I correct in thinking this?
(Chris "EMJunky" also said to test it with no gap firstly. The ferrite rod i use in my video came from a radio and it have no gap.)


Wistiti -
I do not have a standalone function generator at this time, and I haven't yet learned how to use my Arduino Yun or Mega 2650, so I will be using a function gen software from my pc, into a Yamaha stereo amplifier, and to my device.
This should work for the time being, correct?? I really cannot wait to order my touchscreen for my Arduino and learn how to use the sucker!! I also wouldn't mind getting my hands on one of John Bedini's high quality linear audio amplifiers, but that's out of the question!!
(Here is an other good and cheap option bring fron slider 2732 at OUR i will try.

"Slider2732

Position: Hero Member
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Posts: 676

Re: Partnered Output Coils - Free Energy

« Reply #391 on: Today at 18:24:43 »
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Hopefully of use to further the frequency generator side, for those who may not have one.
I decided to look into a simple 555 timer square wave oscillator for the 1.7kHz input, shown on TK's video.

Used this calculator:
555 Calculator

And these figures returned a 56% Duty Cycle at 1.756kHz
R1 = 10K
R2 = 36K
C1 = 0.01uF ('103' orange ceramic)

A 50K pot could be put in place of R2, to vary the frequency within the 1.7kHz range.
Or, for more exact changes, a 33K resistor in series with a 5K pot."

You just have to put the pin 3 of the 555 on the base of a transistor.)



Thanks for all the help!
Sorry for all of the questions! I just want to do this correctly!!
(no problem but what i write may not be so good... you realy have to try and made some test... many time it is not working. That why i say "do it with a smile!"


I promise no more questions until I have some results to share!

Oh, and Wistiti.... I made sure I sang little jingles and drank a lot of coffee while I was fiberglassing! Now to wait for my spool inners to dry..... research time!


Brian

[brian516]

Where'd everyone go?!?!?!?!?

[Wistiti]

Take some time with famely and freinds. Did not play so much with it.
What about you Brian??

[brian516]

It's alive!!

yes I know there's a lot of wires sticking out all over..... it's because I didn't wire it up in "conventional" partnered or bucking configuration.....

the way I do things is... well..... odd. I don't like to do things the way anyone else does. I guess I'm a "way far outside the box" kind of person.

[ the device self-resonates the way I have it configured - no matter what the input voltage is. even if it's 400mV. I haven't tried lower than that yet since it takes forrrrrrrevvverrrrrr to deplete an already depleted AA battery on this thing... but, while self resonating, when I measure the frequency - the caps are resonating at 7.9khz and the bulb at 18.9khz. I don't know if that means anything to me yet.... oh, and I said it's not in "conventional" partnered config, but it still is in partnered config. the bulb draws way way more when I have it hooked only to the outer or inner secondary, and isn't any brighter than it is now. however, without the caps in place, it won't self resonate, it draws more, and the bulb is dimmer in partnered config than in standard transformer config. ]

[Wistiti]

Seems good!
Can you draw a schematic of it??

[brian516]

Seems good!
Can you draw a schematic of it??

yeah I'll have to do it by by hand instead of on express sch tho in order to represent it all the way I want so it looks right and so I can add all the weird little details, so I probably won't be able to get it up until tomorrow sometime.

[brian516]

Wistiti -

Here ya go. Sorry for the sloppiness. I just didn't believe that ExpressSCH could depict my experimental device the way I wanted to depict it - so that the basic concept of what I did could be easily understood and reproduced in whatever manner/device you choose to use it in.





(The 1/4" x 1/4" or 6mm x 6mm grid actually only applies to the core itself. I depicted the ferrite at the actual size, and in the bottom right corner, I traced the profile of one half directly to the page)

The one thing I am unsure of on page two of my diagrams, is what part of the LED bulb is anode/cathode. Can anyone clear this up for me? I'm under the assumption that the case of the base of the flashlight LED bulb is the Cathode (-) and the point at the bottom of the base is the Anode (+) since on regular lightbulbs the Negative is the screw part of the base. I'm fairly certain that I have it correct, but I just want someone to verify it for me. Thanks

-Brian


***Correction: 6V flashlight bulb is 0.13A 0.8W***

[Wistiti]

Thank you Brian!
It seem to be a nice transfo. Did you mesure in/out power?
Does it react like our previous device (bucking inverter) less amp draw at the input when a load is connect on the output?
It is my turn to ask some question
Ciao!

[brian516]

Thank you Brian!
It seem to be a nice transfo. Did you mesure in/out power?
Does it react like our previous device (bucking inverter) less amp draw at the input when a load is connect on the output?
It is my turn to ask some question
Ciao!

I'll set it up a little better tomorrow afternoon so that I can modify the load and everything.

I just stuck a meter on the input to measure the current, and i am drawing -72mA?? anyone have any idea what's going on here? I definitely don't have anything hooked up backwards, thats for sure. I triple checked.

with the MJL21194G it is -217.2mA draw
with 2SC5859 it is -71.8mA current draw
the isn't much of a brightness difference between the two, either.
with a TIP35C it is -283.2mA draw and climbing but it is noticeably brighter, but not by much.

running with 3 rechargeable AA's at 3.8V. had it running on those for about 5 hours before I measured the voltage.

I'll take more specific measurements and do some more involved experiments tomorrow. Doing research tonight.

-Brian

[edit:
my thoughts on the reason why it is a negative current draw from the positive and a very small current draw from the negative are as follows:
1)My primary winding may be 'backwards' on my secondaries: I don't see this being the case, since, even though on the diagram I drew it that way, the secondaries are wired up the exact same in both directions. the only difference in this is which way the bulb is oriented, and I have the bulb oriented in the manner that would make it appear that secondary 1 is running the same direction as primary. However, I will still try switching the bulb around and see if I still have the same effect.
2)somehow, maybe the device is drawing it's current off of the negative side of the 3 batteries, and feeding it back into the positive side. If this is the case, it would seem that my device is connected up backwards. However, that brings me back to #1, where I know that it is not hooked u backwards. First of all, the transistor would not allow me to hook it up backwards, if I did, it likely would not function, however I will attempt switching the connections around for the primary in various different configurations. I am not sure what effect this might have, since a muller coil is meant to be hooked up so that the current is traveling from the inner laters to the outer layers.
3) If the above alterations have no observable effect on the operation of the device, and it continues to feed back to the positive of the battery while drawing 1/4 to 1/6 as much off of the negative of the battery, it would appear that I have created some sort of mild "OU" device, which I very seriously doubt. If I have pierced the skin of the Aether with this device, it would be, in my eyes, a very tiny needle being shoved in and drawing out a very small amount of static energy, over and over and over. The goal, however, is to pierce it's jugular with a very large one, pull the plunger out, and let the Aether life force flow out, but I don't know what effect this would have on the Aether, as I perceive it to be a living thing of it's own that cannot be infinite in all places at all times..... maybe I am incorrect in my understanding of the Aether, though.

Note: Current propagates perpendicular (90degrees) from Voltage. Current: Magnetic lines of force. (Inductance)(Push) Voltage: Dielectric lines of force. (Capacitance)(Pull) Voltage is concentric rings propagating around the "conductor"(Actually dielectric reflector). Current propagates directly from the particles of the conductor, 90 degrees out of it and into the particles of the nearest conductor. It doesn't matter how close the conductors are in proximity to one another, there will still be magnetic lines of force around each conductor, and around the entire set of windings. If you want to increase the magnetic (lines of force) storage capacity (inductance) spread your wires apart a little as you wind them, and use some sort of spacer between the layers. This also will increase the dielectric (lines of force) storage capacity (capacitance). The combination of the two may increase the Electrical storage capabilities of a device. (that is, if the combination of the two, being magnetic lines of force and dielectric lines of force are actually storing their combined potential at the very points where they intersect with one another, (since that point of intersection is the electricity itself)) (I believe this may be stage 1 of what Chris (EMJunkie) is getting at when he is telling us "Loosely coupled" - however his statements and explanations are extremely vague, and never explains this in any of his videos - which is especially important since it isn't what most people mean by "Loosely Coupled"!!).
If the resonant frequency of both the Capacitance and Inductance can be found, the coil of wire will be 'transformed' from an ordinary coil of wire, into a mono polar transformer, grounded into counter-space. (I believe this may be Stage 2 of what Chris wants us to do - what confirms it for me is that he has told people on several occasions to hook it up to a function generator and find the "resonant frequency" - What he means is to explore the "RESONANT PROCESS") Do NOT take my theories as your own. Watch the video below and develop your own conclusion and then share it with the rest of us if you, and they, don't mind. [/U]
In order for you to have Electrification, you MUST have magnetic and dielectric lines of force! At the points where Magnetism and Dielectricity intersect is where Electrification happens! If there is one and not the other, there is NO electricity!

(This means that all those little doodles of an inductor and the lines of force going around each one and around them all on one side and then into the core and so on - ARE ALL INCORRECT and INCOMPLETE! What they attempt to show you should always be accompanied by a doodle of the dielectric lines of force, and then the combination of the two, since that is what electrification is. Magnetism is NOT electricity!! Magnetism + Dielectricity = Electrification.

A MUST WATCH: ERIC DOLLARD - THE "THEORY" OF ANTI-RELATIVITY It doesn't matter that it's 3 1/2 hours long, you better watch it.......... all of it......... it highly relates to what everyone here is trying to do, and everything else in it's entirety for that matter. If you don't watch it, it means that you like manually spinning around in your computer chair instead of attaching rockets to it and hitting the infinite drag strip!

Chris - I hope you don't get mad at me for 'spilling the beans' to everyone here instead of making each person figure it out for themselves. Let me know if I did.

[end edit and ramblings - whoever's thread this happens to be, if you are unhappy with my ramblings, promptly inform me and I will delete them and not let myself do it again]