Mikey's Beast SSSG OSCILLATOR

[alman]

...
Another idea, how about using 2 windings in series on my spool instead of one? See what I mean? But I heard John Bedini say he didn't want any breaks in the wire. So i don't know...
Mikey

I unwound a coil that didn't work for what I initially used it for and rewound it around some transformer laminations that were wrapped in cardboard and tape. Then made ss ssg w/ cpd mod (same circuit as Bromikey's beast). The coil is 3 strands at roughly 45' of salvaged 14awg aluminum magnet wire with a 20 awg trigger wind. I seriesed the the trigger with one of the 14's and connected the 2 power strands serial as well. Works great. Tried parallel, anti-series and series is the best for this particular circuit with this coil was series. Running air core now. Just an FYI. Al

[genessc]

Howdy,

I don't know that theres some cut and hard way to go on this stuff. The 6 x 20awg strands was what let me run higher voltages... running higher voltages on larger guage wire would instantly or close to instantly burn up the transistor. I built a 3 x 14awg strand SS SG and if I went above about 18volts the thing would toast the mjl21194 on it. So if you want to run higher voltages, go to smaller guage wires at longer lengths maybe...

The problem with putting multiple strands in series and thru a single transistor is that you monkey up the 1:1:1 ratio between the windings on the solenoid. Putting 2 windings of a 3 winding solenoid in series for the power winding causes there then to be a 1:2 skew in impedance. So I think one has to keep in mind that you want whatever is showing up on One strand, to show up on All the strands... (tho when bedini goes to smaller awg trigger strands this must be somehow increasing the rate at which the triggering impulse hits the base... maybe like an advancing of timing in a car?)

You can run the machine on whatever voltage until you burn up the switch. In fact I usually will have the voltage from a variac coming thru a fwbr and smoothing cap turned low on my 120vdc bedini sg and bring it up to full volts over time, otherwise one might get that inrush current and watch their transistors smoke. Just remember what I noted above, bigger wires, lower voltage and more of a Current thump... smaller wires will take you to higher voltages with still less current being drawn instead of localized on the switch.

Anyways ask away and I'll try to be helpful. Cheers.
Gene

That is over 320 feet for a pound of wire. Thank you Gene. So now I need a longer peace of wire. If I run at 30-40 volts input, how would I figure out what the optimum length might be?

I don't want to ask a million questions and put you out. But it sure is good to have someone around like you who knows more than me.

Another idea, how about using 2 windings in series on my spool instead of one? See what I mean? But I heard John Bedini say he didn't want any breaks in the wire. So i don't know.

Also is can't go back down to 12vdc or 24vdc if I have built the machine for 45vdc input.

Your setup sounds so cool. I always safe guard the bases of my transistors with a minimum resistance, except for testing. Well maybe I should do it then also.

So your setup takes 120volts right off the wall? And then goes up to 300volts? Or what? I don't understand. Seems like people might run a trickle out of the wall and light all of their lights for half the cost?

Is that the idea? Either way Gene you are turning out to be a great help to me.

Mikey

[BroMikey]

I unwound a coil that didn't work for what I initially used it for and rewound it around some transformer laminations that were wrapped in cardboard and tape. Then made ss ssg w/ cpd mod (same circuit as Bromikey's beast). The coil is 3 strands at roughly 45' of salvaged 14awg aluminum magnet wire with a 20 awg trigger wind. I seriesed the the trigger with one of the 14's and connected the 2 power strands serial as well. Works great. Tried parallel, anti-series and series is the best for this particular circuit with this coil was series. Running air core now. Just an FYI. Al

Awesome dude. Keep me up to date on how she goes.

Mikey

[BroMikey]

Howdy,

I don't know that theres some cut and hard way to go on this stuff. The 6 x 20awg strands was what let me run higher voltages... running higher voltages on larger guage wire would instantly or close to instantly burn up the transistor. I built a 3 x 14awg strand SS SG and if I went above about 18volts the thing would toast the mjl21194 on it. So if you want to run higher voltages, go to smaller guage wires at longer lengths maybe...

The problem with putting multiple strands in series and thru a single transistor is that you monkey up the 1:1:1 ratio between the windings on the solenoid. Putting 2 windings of a 3 winding solenoid in series for the power winding causes there then to be a 1:2 skew in impedance. So I think one has to keep in mind that you want whatever is showing up on One strand, to show up on All the strands... (tho when bedini goes to smaller awg trigger strands this must be somehow increasing the rate at which the triggering impulse hits the base... maybe like an advancing of timing in a car?)

You can run the machine on whatever voltage until you burn up the switch. In fact I usually will have the voltage from a variac coming thru a fwbr and smoothing cap turned low on my 120vdc bedini sg and bring it up to full volts over time, otherwise one might get that inrush current and watch their transistors smoke. Just remember what I noted above, bigger wires, lower voltage and more of a Current thump... smaller wires will take you to higher voltages with still less current being drawn instead of localized on the switch.

Anyways ask away and I'll try to be helpful. Cheers.
Gene

Thanks Gene

Been frying the sheet out of transistors, oh well live and learn huh? I done did dude, all figured out now after 1 whole day, big deal.

Well in a few measly hours I am there. I have a LARGE transformer block the size of an MOT that runs 42vdc open circuit using a FWBR and 7000 UF caps.

When loaded down to 3-4 amps the voltage stablizes at an input of 34.5 volts DC. The Oscillator is a 130 feet section of 14awg magwire. No fine wire restrictions.

I hooked it up backwards and rebuilt it. I hooked it up right witht he wrong diodes and watched the heat rise. I bumbed the neon wire and boom!!

I am doing everything wrong first it is a bunch of fun. My transistors run me about $2 and I popped 4 of them before I found all my problems.

I am running along find at elevated voltages on the input and excellent Oscillations. No stalling to the oscillation has occured that might roast my transistor. My troubles were related to other things.

Also I popped all of my MJL21194's going up to 24vdc last year. I order 350volt devices now for the higher voltage producing circuits. In fact the industrial standards handbook taught me this, it says if I am running a circuit to produce a voltage past 60 volts I need to go from a 200volt limit to the next higher one.

The only devices I could find were 350v which is 150v higher. The handbook states that these devices are fine for 120v operation. I only use them to operate my circuit up to 90-95vdc to provide cold lectric to my dump caps.

My BIG CAP DUMP was the same deal, everytime I tried to dump 90v through a 200v IRFP250 the device would explode in minutes. There fore I went to an IRFP460 Max rated 500v

Yes it ocured to me that the ratio is being thrown off with running series windings and leaving the trigger the same length. What got me thinking was Aarons extra coil added on to the ended of his energizer and I know that is different yet I heard Patrick say he added winding in series.

I think you need to move up to a 350v device when adding winds that produce higher repercussions.

Thanks for sharpening up my sword, I am just getting started with this stuff.

Mike

[BroMikey]

Hello Experimenters

I have known for years that there is a fast diode to improve circuit operation. My My but this is my first time seeing it work in my beast osc. You can't imagine how important a fast diode is to a Bedini Osc. or any oscillator.

Let me put like this because this is the only way we can gain a point of reference. For a few years I have built the simple cheap basic Bedini Oscillator and have grown to know what to expect, right? Very importat to have a point of origin.

So I am hanging out pulsing batteries for years. I have all kinds of batteries. I have made several dumps I send energy to with an oscillator.

Well I got my diodes in the mail they are 30EPF12 fast recovery



@Aaron

I don't know what i was thinking when you commented on my neon post but I don't think I told you what I did. Also the cap I had before on the output to absorb energy first is not there. I have a cap on the supply but not the output SOMETIMES when I don't use the dumps.

However the neons were lighting up and this is because I was over 70volts? I run up to 90v to dump a 36v battery, right? Well the neons would stay running once I got to 65-75 volts and no matter how far I backed off on the voltage they would stay lit.

It is like they are stuck on and I didn't want that, so I have two neons in series and a 3900 ohm resistor. This transistor is a 350 v device and it should be able to handle 150-170 voltages SOMETIMES. Like when I goof, IF I GOOF. No more of that for me if I can help it.

So back to the new diode, you wouldn't believe it if I told ya but here goes anyway. The amp meter has been running at 1.25 amps for years a certain way and I know what to expect.

I will give you all the before figures first. For years I run thes Oscillators John Bedini builds and this week I am sitting here at nights losing sleep experimenting and sharing.

The supply as I said is at 34.5vdc @ 1.25 amps and sending this to a dump with 4 parallel Irfp250 mosfets and 555 timer opto control.

The battery and the dump have voltmeters on them and the battery also has a 1-5 amp analog panel meter to see discharges. During the course of this week discharges of 30-32 volts @2 amps Max 2 to 3 times a second, right?

So I am setting here thinking about nailing up my new diode to se if there might be a small change in circuit operation. I installed my diode on the big test sink I showed you all in the video from a 100 watt audio amplifier.

The main thing I was hoping for is a reduced heat at a given load.

Here is what happened. My discharge current doubled. I looked up to see the meter and the thing was banging all of the way over past 5 amps because I had it up to 37volts but I had never seen that happen before. Before I got the new diodes that are fast recover the best result on discharge amps was 2 amps for all the same parameters. Before even when I would turn the voltage up sky high to see just how far I could get the amps on discharge, it did not give me much extra for huge amounts of voltage increases. It would begin heating up as the OLD diodes were restricting the circuit.

So I looked up and the meter was banging away so I turned it all down so i didn't smash it. I kept backing it down slowly from 35-38 volts I think it was till I got to 31-32volts.

The transistor runs way cooler and the diode is cool. What is happening is the circuit puts out dern near double for the same input power, well I can't quite be sure but somewhere close to that.

I am telling ya, the meter is discharging at 4.5 amps not 2 amps with near zero heat. Just warm. I am very pleased with this improvement. Anyone running an Oscillator and doesn't have fast diodes, doesn't know what they are missing.

Now I am having another problem. The input amp-meter needs to run at a fairly steady draw, not swinging wildly like this diode is making my circuit do more of shoot now I gotta figure that one out.

The last time I solved this issue i used arc suppression coils to lessen heat and wild swings. Some use BIG wire wound resistors as shown in the Bedini patent. Or you can wind your own.

I will be giving all of the beginners sometime to ponder as I learn these basic things that almost everyone else knows. Somebody has to be last.

Mikey PS It sure feels good to learn something new.

[Hitby13kw]

Ultrafast Soft Recovery Diode

Hello Experimenters

Well I got my diodes in the mail they are 30EPF12 fast recovery

Just thought this was an opportunity to toss in my 2 bits

Mikey great story about how much better your system worked with the 30EPF12 fast recovery diode 1200V 30A 95ns
if you liked that, next time try the HFA15PB60 ultra fast recovery diode 600V 15A 19ns
Half the Voltage an Current - but almost 5 times faster
Same size and shape, however the effect on system output is an order of magnitude better.

Hitby13kw

[Aaron]

high speed switching

Just thought this was an opportunity to toss in my 2 bits

Mikey great story about how much better your system worked with the 30EPF12 fast recovery diode 1200V 30A 95ns
if you liked that, next time try the HFA15PB60 ultra fast recovery diode 600V 15A 19ns
Half the Voltage an Current - but almost 5 times faster
Same size and shape, however the effect on system output is an order of magnitude better.

Hitby13kw

Thanks for posting those.

Mike - That's awesome - too bad the 1n4007's are such low current because their switching time is only about 4 ns from what I remember and paralleling a bunch of them, they'll never kick on at the same time unfortunately.

When I was experimenting a lot with the Ainslie circuit back around 2008, one of the single biggest improvements that I found was bypassing the irfpg50 internal diode (usually junk) with a very high speed diode... I don't recall the exact difference, but I remember it was so huge it blew me away.

The inductive resistor gets charged and when the mosfet shuts off, the inductive spikes goes thru the intrinsic diode and sends the spike right back to the input source battery - the high quality high speed diode from source to drain gave me a big yahoo moment. lol

This is where the importance of Paul Babcock's switching technology comes into play - it is so fast that it basically captures the entire event. It's all in his patents. I don't think there is anything faster. I haven't seen it applied to these Bedini type circuits, but it is designed to capture the spike from the very beginning of it's appearance.

[BroMikey]

Mike - That's awesome - too bad the 1n4007's are such low current because their switching time is only about 4 ns from what I remember and paralleling a bunch of them, they'll never kick on at the same time unfortunately.

I didn't realize they were THAT fast. Yet, like you say you can't get 2 of them in parallel to operate together so one ends of being first to open and all of the energy goes through THAT one, then the second one turns on.

I sorta found that out with my first cap dump pieced together with old TV transistors. I used 5 large 150watt switching transistor that were triggered by a 555 to opto FROM a low powered transistor something like a 2222.

When running one transistor was always hotter that the other 4. So when I drove home one day with a tandem trailer full of industrial batteries I run in and got it. It blew after a 24 hr day of dumping at full throttle.

Well it blew just 1 transistor so I snipped that device out and away she went. It ran for another month and blew on another batteries, same thing. After a few months I was down to 2 transistors so i threw it up on to the pile

Last week I rebuilt it with 4 identical IRFP250's? Or are they 260's I forgot which one it is now. I have the 460's also.

But for a 100vdc max cap I wont go over 60 volts and that is pushing it as far as I am concerned.

.................................................. ...one of the single biggest improvements that I found was bypassing the irfpg50 internal diode (usually junk) with a very high speed diode... I don't recall the exact difference, but I remember it was so huge it blew me away.

Point noted, consider it done on this circuit. I forgot about that.

The inductive resistor gets charged and when the mosfet shuts off, the inductive spikes goes thru the intrinsic diode and sends the spike right back to the input source battery - the high quality high speed diode from source to drain gave me a big yahoo moment. lol

The same place the neons go. Yeah I gotta try this even if it is old stock I will try this probably tonight. I will report back on my findings with this Oscillator.

This is where the importance of Paul Babcock's switching technology comes into play - it is so fast that it basically captures the entire event. It's all in his patents. I don't think there is anything faster. I haven't seen it applied to these Bedini type circuits, but it is designed to capture the spike from the very beginning of it's appearance.

Wow that is an important observation. I remember Paul chuckling on set when he talked about the old devices he had to work with "Back in the Day" as Paul puts it.

Yes you are turning on some lights today Aaron.

You are the man who has been the stand by for years, without you I don't know where this forum would be today.

That is just the way it is, a man's gift makes room for him. You keep us together.

Broooo..Mikey[

[Aaron]

cap dumps

But for a 100vdc max cap I wont go over 60 volts and that is pushing it as far as I am concerned.

Point noted, consider it done on this circuit. I forgot about that.

The same place the neons go. Yeah I gotta try this even if it is old stock I will try this probably tonight. I will report back on my findings with this Oscillator.[

What is the capacitance of the cap bank you're dumping to that big battery bank? At the 12v battery level, way back when we were dumping big cap banks (don't know if you are using big capacitors - sorry if you already mentioned it - I glanced and didn't see mention), we only took the caps to about 2 volts over the battery. That is what John was doing at his shop with a few hundred thousand uf's. I think those discharges were about once every 1-2 seconds. That was to car batteries or something... a fraction of your big bank.

15 years ago when I was doing that with my bicycle wheel energizer - my 2000 turn trifilar... would charge up a 198,000 uf cap bank to 2 volts over the battery and dump about every 2 seconds timed with a pulley and copper contact switch to dump to the battery. Was delivering that to a small 12v 7ah gel cell. I'd do that for an hour, disconnect and that battery would continue to charge (real strong charge) for another hour. The charge was real enough I would put that and another battery like it in a little electric scooter and drive it down to John's shop (when I worked down the street).

I don't know if it would be 6 volts over on a 36 volt bank, but can't be too far off, but probably 42-45 volts or so might be all you need and you can dump it quicker... would just have to do the tests if there is any benefit compared to charging up to 60.

You don't have a spike going back through your mosfet if that is just a switch to dump the cap so probably won't make a difference what kind of diode is in it.

[BroMikey]

What is the capacitance of the cap bank you're dumping to that big battery bank? At the 12v battery level, way back when we were dumping big cap banks (don't know if you are using big capacitors - sorry if you already mentioned it - I glanced and didn't see mention), we only took the caps to about 2 volts over the battery. That is what John was doing at his shop with a few hundred thousand uf's. I think those discharges were about once every 1-2 seconds. That was to car batteries or something... a fraction of your big bank.

15 years ago when I was doing that with my bicycle wheel energizer - my 2000 turn trifilar... would charge up a 198,000 uf cap bank to 2 volts over the battery and dump about every 2 seconds timed with a pulley and copper contact switch to dump to the battery. Was delivering that to a small 12v 7ah gel cell. I'd do that for an hour, disconnect and that battery would continue to charge (real strong charge) for another hour. The charge was real enough I would put that and another battery like it in a little electric scooter and drive it down to John's shop (when I worked down the street).

I don't know if it would be 6 volts over on a 36 volt bank, but can't be too far off, but probably 42-45 volts or so might be all you need and you can dump it quicker... would just have to do the tests if there is any benefit compared to charging up to 60.

You don't have a spike going back through your mosfet if that is just a switch to dump the cap so probably won't make a difference what kind of diode is in it.

Yes I realized that I am not using a fet right now on the oscillator it is a MJL4281, but my little bank is a 60,000uF. I have also tried dumping at lower voltages and it works good. I just thought it was wrong to do that. I use a 10 turn pot for all my controls usually. I play with the voltages.

I do it but I don't tell anyone cause it goes up faster, then I change the voltage and the timing near the middle and end of the cycle.

But the diode across my Fets on my dumps might like one. I changed my mind mid stream last month when I took off the fets and put the MJL4281a, that is probably what threw you off on the oscillator build.

Yes, lowering the voltages off the dump does solve the heat issue.

Just now I cut the wire going from the output on the transiso\tor over to the input on the fast diode. Gonna play with high awg coils tonight. Maybe only a .005 ohm resistance.

Be back to share the results.

Thanks-4 catching that last post on additional fast diodes across the source and drain. I don't think it would hurt anything.

I'll try it anyway.

Thanks for the history on what you have learned first hand from John.

Mikey

[BroMikey]

Impulse Tech

Here is my resent test bed for using impulse coils in conjunction with a Bedini oscillator to cap dump. The impulse coils are placed in and out of these positions one at a time or both.

The trick is to wind your coils to a particular "Node" as it is called so not much if any energy is lost for the normal operation of the circuit with the coils rectifying maximum amounts of real power, available to dump back onto the source.

I am in the middle of rebuilding my oscillator so I will use this one channel to resolve many issues, such as what input power is best for 12vdc and a variety of ah ratings. In the end switches will adjust power levels and voltages. Very small dip switches can be had to easily handle any 5 watts load.

What you don't see in the diagram is the coil spot in the trigger to replace the resistors with. Instead of wasting power in the trigger, why not recirculate as much as possible. A stable resistance in the base is required to produce exact amounts of energy sent to the dump, so the coil in the base might turn out to be the hardest one to setup.





At the same time I am trying all three voltages at varying amp inputs 1,2 and 3 amp, keeping an eye out for wasted heat off of the transistor, diode and also the base resistors.

The base resistors will cool off sometimes and the transistor will be very hot if I run higher voltages to the oscillator and dump a 12vdc battery. Dumping down to far makes for way more heat. I am measuring 90-110 degrees in all conditions.

Yes I use a slow moving 12vdc fan about 2.5 inch dia to gently dissipate heat. I have noted that the fast diode produces a much great result as I am exploring impulse coil energy recovery or recycling.

Mikey

[BroMikey]

Storming The Gates

Here is a piece of hidden work from Howard Johnson's Magnetic Gate files on motor rotors. To whom it may concern. My question these days is how I might do away with the rotor oscillator and replace it say with a chunk of bar stock with opposing coils wound on it?

The idea in picture form on the far left gate that looks like a misshapen horseshoe, is to send a magnetic pulse into the fields so it can change direction and add it's energy into the mix. This pulls and pushes the rotor along creating an OU engine.

In the picture we see a rotor sending magnets through the window that engage the special gate but John Bedini has stated in past entries that the rotating mass is not an absolute.

This is the question, how can I use an oscillator circuit to engage the gate fields so when the gate fields reverse so those fields push back on the oscillator circuits coil and absorb THAT energy?



On another note, I have made a small oscillator coil that works at 12vdc at 3 amps to charge a scooter battery using a tiny cap dump. Instead of using a block transformer weighting 5 pounds with an efficiency rating of 70 percent.

It is not the efficiency that bothers me, it is the safety issue of using a 60vdc source to dump a scooter battery. An oscillator circuit is much safer while a transformer rated at 60 watts @65vdc will not tolerate a shorted condition without complete burnout. 60vdc of a wall socket will do serious damage and I can see no better way of lower potential risks but to do away with the BLOCK TRANSFORMER.

Also a switchmode based input is no better leaving the circuit in a toasty condition if wires get shorted of battery plates short out. The Bedini oscillator circuits are a great starting point to energizer a set of caps to be discharged into the batteries.

Further I want to stress that the use of ALUM as I have in action in all my batteries require that you do a forming charge with direct current before you pulse charge with your dumps and or oscillators.

Batteries filled with Alum and no plate forming will not respond to pulses yet. The pulses just bounce right off the plates. I have no idea where all of the energy goes. Well heat is one place you will note the loss of energy as your discharging heat sinks begin to build up because the power has no where to go.

My little coil oscillator for the scooter is wrapped around my four fingers being a tied into an air core formation of a 3" dia 3/4' X 3/4". At a 50 watt input the coil is mildly warm actually lower than the transistor junction. It might weight in at a few ounces for the coil and electronix.

Oscillators are simple to build and have advantages that no other device can match. As I rebuild the beast Osc (waiting for parts) I will also be sharing with you my person mental exploration on the possible additions to these circuits.

As a beginner I welcome any more experienced thoughts or corrections.

So far I have never used a zener diode to trigger a Mosfet at a certain voltage and will also include these video tutorials for those of you who want to follow the beginner.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrB-FPcv1Dc


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jG2YAtTWxvc

[BroMikey]

Litzing Wire

Here are a hints for winding coils using Litzed Magwire. I know it is old news. I built a small one that goes in a cordless drill.

Here is a larger unit far better than mine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lfn9oz5EwvA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F3KCIFEkHbQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUGh9v2AsuA

[BroMikey]

Winder

Here is how i wind my coils for the
Solid State Bedini Oscillator. Use threaded rod with locking nuts bushings, washers and
foam rubber donuts to make it possible to set the drag or tension on all spools. Run the
cordless drill for 10-20 seconds and roll the twisted section up onto the drill spool by hand.
Then proceed to twist up another 8 foot section till you have reached 130 feet.

[BroMikey]

How to Litz wire

In this video I show all of my coil winders. The big one I finally made is the best of course so i wanted to show it off. Others who are not as mechanically incline may not have thought of this idea for parts or even considered what it takes to get the job done.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4BR...ature=youtu.be