Mikey's Beast SSSG OSCILLATOR

[Dupe]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tvHm...-l83E0ChISZ_sD
this maybe off topic buit this is also a beasty charger for consideration hope u can draw a schematic out of this I want to incorporate ur circuit with this simple re emf charger
thanks

totoalas

Pity the commentary is not in English! Very neat build though. Yes there are some differences... noting the two inductors and two semiconductors.

[BroMikey]

Pity the commentary is not in English! Very neat build though. Yes there are some differences... noting the two inductors and two semiconductors.

Exactly

I do not understand that language and the man in the
video said he was using the idea from Rene, that much I could
understand but he has given no diagram to work with.

Whatever that video version is, does not use the same bifilar
coil as Rene. So this is the only diagram I have.

[BroMikey]

Here is another version of a HOMEMADE wire litzing/twisting
machine. Just plywood and carriage bolts work well.

All thread or threaded rods.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pT9sskgZWiU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNbxxMaO7Mo

[BroMikey]

Here we see a bifilar wound toroid.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=82PpCzM2CUg

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, funny the rene re-emf charger should be posted, as i was just about to build it, then i saw someone posting on it.
I have built it in the past, though needed something with some decent output and a desulfating component to charge this tractor battery, i think it's a 20 ah.
I just built before hand a couple other chargers, using strictly the flyback spike from a coil, though this re-emf charger is the best and most efficient.
The other circuits had issues with heat, this one does not.
Using 19.5 volt laptop power supply and drawing 5 watts, pushes this battery up fairly well.
Raised it to 8 watts input by lowering base resistor to 110 ohms and inline current limiter resistor to around .75 ohm.
Battery is at 13.15 volts now, will wait till it hits 14.4 volts, then see how many amp hours i can get down to 12 volts.
Probably going to try a higher voltage supply next, to speed up charging and will see if these components heat up any.
peace love light

[BroMikey]

Hi folks, funny the rene re-emf charger should be posted, as i was just about to build it, then i saw someone posting on it.
I have built it in the past, though needed something with some decent output and a desulfating component to charge this tractor battery, i think it's a 20 ah.
I just built before hand a couple other chargers, using strictly the flyback spike from a coil, though this re-emf charger is the best and most efficient.
The other circuits had issues with heat, this one does not.
Using 19.5 volt laptop power supply and drawing 5 watts, pushes this battery up fairly well.
Raised it to 8 watts input by lowering base resistor to 110 ohms and inline current limiter resistor to around .75 ohm.
Battery is at 13.15 volts now, will wait till it hits 14.4 volts, then see how many amp hours i can get down to 12 volts.
Probably going to try a higher voltage supply next, to speed up charging and will see if these components heat up any.
peace love light

Good to hear.
I have never built this one yet. However here is some
food for thought. The common ground energizers are current
pulses and in series with the coil. Also the power supply
is much higher than the charge battery so a greater degree
of forced charging is accomplished. This means that you can
drive a battery higher much more rapidly per unit cost.

I don't see anything wrong with this charging circuit as long
as the C20 battery ratings are followed.

If you have build the SSSG charger that is switchable to
Generator Mode and got heat then you need to work on
the tank for the trigger.

As long as it is just a tiny joule thief using some very large
semiconductor no heat may appear to be generated. Just
wait til you scale up.

I am looking forward to seeing where the battery sits after
a cycle of charging has been completed. If the unit is
functioning optimally resting voltage will be the judge.

What I want to know is how can I use this circuit to clean
batteries with. Unlike the Bedini tech where spikes of voltage
can be had for a near crash and burnt battery then warm
current pulses in the Generator mode.

This RENE circuit may keep a balance of both according to RENE.

If someone has used this method who has also used the Bedini
technology might be the best judge on the pro's and Con's.

Please post your results, I am very interested.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi mikey, the previous energizers were meisner type, trigger with capacitor to emitter negative.
Only the coil was getting hot in regular flyback mode, maybe coil gauge needs to be bigger.
I'm now using 31 volts input on this rene charger and the coil is getting slightly warm, which may be because it has the current limiter resistor in-line and the diode in-line.
Input is 11.5 watts now with this rene re-emf charger.
I'll let you know how it handles a load and resting voltages.
peace love light

[Wistiti]

Hi bro And sky!
I'm agree with you sky these re-emf charger is one of my best!
But now the one I mostly use is your bucking coil inverter with an high speed rectifier output.
It give a great charge and consume less.
Again thank you for opening my eyes on it!🙏

[BroMikey]

Hi mikey, the previous energizers were meisner type, trigger with capacitor to emitter negative.
Only the coil was getting hot in regular flyback mode, maybe coil gauge needs to be bigger.

Hi bro And sky!
I'm agree with you sky these re-emf charger is one of my best!
But now the one I mostly use is your bucking coil inverter with an high speed rectifier output.

Hello Sky and Wistiti

I am finding 4 to 6 strands PER connection point. I am finding
that the high speed energy likes the surface of the mag-wire
and multiple strands work as well as a huge thick wire.

Yes you need to lower the resistance. How many feet are
you running? I started with what JOHN BEDINI taught us
to start with, 130 feet of 20awg.

This gave me a reference, then I went to more resistance using
the tiny 25awg wire at 150 feet. The difference between 25awg
and 20awg is like traveling from here to the moon or from here
to Mars.

The resistance could be as high as 8X greater.

Now I use a 6 strand 22awg litzed coil 75 feet. Out of this
world power handling. Right this minute I am running a 2 channel.
2 transistors rated at 200 watts each. One device runs a 1-1.5
amps of power at 15vdc MAX and if i don't see to it on the scope
that the waveform is oscillating in a consistent manner it gets
so hot that it will degrade the transistor in a short time.

The common grounds and generator mode as pointed out by
John need a stable base triggering means. Some have used the
positive triggering method with cap since the early days of
crystal radio's.

The positive base trigger is done with a single diode then some
resistance is added to protect the device for over current. Next
more resistance in the base is added along with a parallel cap.

The second resistance and parallel cap form the tank circuit and
the diode steers in the positive direction of firing. This is the basic
arrangement of the 1932 crystal oscillator without a battery.

Since that time other ways of triggering the base of the transistor
have been developed for more accurate control of frequency and
duty cycle. The 555 timer seems to be one that everyone uses
these days for a basic step up.

Some other circuits were made before the 555 timer that used
some transistors to form a mini low powered oscillator to control
the bigger high powered oscillating devices. This is the same thing
as the 555 timer circuit only with a series of more complex
means in a simple inexpensive fix rather than a long hand circuit
as was always the case before that time.

Then we learn that going back to the simple tank can be a better
way of finding the circuits favorite oscillation place instead of
forcing the power section into a zone where conflict of harmonics
might defeat the max output.

Either way you must first spend some time in months or years of
watching the oscillator circuit falter and stabilize as trigger is
adjusted. If this is not done you will always run into heating
and never know why.

Other reasoned can cause heating also like the restriction
of the wire size and length depending on device and power
levels desired.

It's all trial and error. Have fun and enjoy your adventure.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi wistiti, yes it seems very efficient, i had to turn off charger before bed, can't trust it yet, till i use it more, stopped at 13.5 charging volts and in the morning standing voltage was 12.87 volts.
The battery new the store was sitting at 12.54 volts.
I'll continue charging when i get time to 14.4 volts.
So the bucking coil inverter chargers batteries well hey, are you using one diode or full wave bridge and are you using the pulses from the bucking coils in parallel.
I may have to try that also wistiti.
Hi mike, thanks for the information, i am using a coil i made for another project, it is 4" long ferrite beads with 24awg. magnet wire, 800-1000 bifilar turns maybe, so it has a ton of turns.
I'll check resistance later.
using NTE389
peace love light

[Dupe]

Hi Guy's, I've spent many happy hours in the past building several different versions of these chargers one of which is in regular use that I put together approximately 6 years ago.
My design uses 4 x BSP450 paralleled high side switches pulsed by a 555 timer providing a 5v logic level output to match the TTL input of the BSP's. The source input is around 15v to 20v from my solar panels, current draw by this circuit is 2.5amps for 20v input. The inductor was salvage from scrap, has a DC resistance of 2R2 and a single wound choke probably laminated core. The choke connects between the output (high side) of the BSP's and common ground -ve the charging battery + is also at ground and -ve of charge battery connects via high speed switching diode. This design is mainly used for charging my 14v NiCad drill battery and works well, also had success with 12v lead acid.

[BroMikey]

Hi Guy's, I've spent many happy hours in the past building several different versions of these chargers one of which is in regular use that I put together approximately 6 years ago.
My design uses 4 x BSP450 paralleled high side switches pulsed by a 555 timer providing a 5v logic level output to match the TTL input of the BSP's. The source input is around 15v to 20v from my solar panels, current draw by this circuit is 2.5amps for 20v input. The inductor was salvage from scrap, has a DC resistance of 2R2 and a single wound choke probably laminated core. The choke connects between the output (high side) of the BSP's and common ground -ve the charging battery + is also at ground and -ve of charge battery connects via high speed switching diode. This design is mainly used for charging my 14v NiCad drill battery and works well, also had success with 12v lead acid.

Dupe

I been looking over your design. It is flawless. That choke is probably
18awg 200feet great work and the



seem like an interesting curve. Then logic Nice.

You can lower your duty cycle and I can't go to 5 percent.

Also on another note I have been chasing resistance values

back seeing my error. I have more variance than I want in

crowbar gate resistance and noticed my neg side resistors are

still = or - 10 percent and when the resistor is cold you know

what happens. Then when all three of these sloppy tol. resistors

are turned on, the swing is to much to suit me.

Nice build on the solar charging a Nicad drill battery. That

inductor is plenty.

[Wistiti]

Hi Sky!
Yes full bridge made with uf5804
And yes the bucking output is in parallel.
I have a 10k pot on the base of the transistor for in/ out adjustment.
Ciao!

[BroMikey]

Hi wistiti, yes it seems very efficient, i had to turn off charger before bed, can't trust it yet, till i use it more, stopped at 13.5 charging volts and in the morning standing voltage was 12.87 volts.
The battery new the store was sitting at 12.54 volts.
I'll continue charging when i get time to 14.4 volts.
So the bucking coil inverter chargers batteries well hey, are you using one diode or full wave bridge and are you using the pulses from the bucking coils in parallel.
I may have to try that also wistiti.
Hi mike, thanks for the information, i am using a coil i made for another project, it is 4" long ferrite beads with 24awg. magnet wire, 800-1000 bifilar turns maybe, so it has a ton of turns.
I'll check resistance later.
using NTE389
peace love light

Hi Sky

For the average bead dia I used the ones I got off ebay .75
then "2 pie r" is the circumference of a circle at 900 turns looks
like this. Oh yeah one more thing 24 awg=25 ohms per 1000 foot.

Numbers

Bead .75 Diameter then radius = .375

2PIE * R = .375 X 6.28 = 2.36 inch per turn X 900 turns =

2.36" X 900turn = 2124" so to get feet = 2124" divided By 12"

2124" divided by 12" = 177 foot long coil.

Then using 25ohms per 1000 foot magwire to get the ohms =

177ft divided by 1000 feet = .177

So ohms resistance for your coil = Approx

.177 X 25 ohms = 4.4ohms

This coil should stay around 100ma to 200ma operating range

for best results.

Your coil is like my coils use to be, much to long for

such fine wire to run over 100ma without heat.


Here is a typical Bedini calculation.

130 feet of 20awg =

10ohms per 1000 feet

130 ft = .130 X 10ohms =1.3 ohm coil.

This is 3X less than your coils resistance.

Bedini suggest running 200ma for the 130 ft length wire @20awg

per strand to be optimum.

If the heat does not go into the resistors on the base, it will go into

transistors and if the heat does not show up in the transistors

it will manifest in the coil itself. You will have heat issues.

[BroMikey]

In the beginning of my experimenting with John Bedini

oscillators I did not understand the 1.3 ohm rule of thumb so

I randomly pulled some 140-150 ft spools off of some washer

pumps I had totaling 4 spools of 22awg power strands and

one spool of 25awg for the trigger winding.

So I learned the hard way that my resistance was to high.

Here is my resistance for those 22awg wires.

145 ft or .145 X 16ohms/1000ft = 2.34 ohms

so I took this Bedini coil of twisted wire off the spool and wound

half on 2 separate spools. Then I twisted those two 4 strands

up to one another.

This gave me a 1.15 ohm coil approx and is closer to 1.3 ohms

as John Bedini had learned years ago.

Now I use 4 strands per transistor devices rated at 200 watts

so I can run one amp on each transistor.

Just generally stick with 1.3 ohms per strand on your coils

and figure 200ma to 400ma MAX per strand.

I like 350ma MAX best and run under that most of the time.

1.3ohms @ 350ma MAX. It's something to think about, you

guys can build it anyway you want.