Barbosa and Leal Devices - Info and Replication Details

[BroMikey]

Hello BroMikey. You make it sound like I am a bad guy, but in reality all I have ever done is try to help Clarence to get a better understanding of what is really going on by trying to get him to do a very basic practical test. For some strange reason Clarence has balked against even doing such a simple test. Using only a battery and inverter as the power source (no mains connected in there anywhere) and measuring the battery current draw when powering something like an electric heater is a simple test that I was trying to get Clarence to do from the very beginning, and it should quickly and clearly show what is really going on. It really doesn't get more straightforward and simple than that.

That is not true Level and you know it, those tests have all been made
time and time again but with other setups. This is an all new one and
it takes work and money to proceed.

You are going to have to hold it for awhile, please stop planting fear
and doubt with your half truths. If you had been here you would know
all of this, instead you wrote Clarence off for the past years thinking
he would never amount to anything.

Go back and read up on the past 2 years since you bailed out.

One more thing Level, QUESTION

What test would you make with this system like the patent calls for
to prove that 99.9999 percent of the energy comes from the earth?

And don't say battery and inverter over again, you really need to read up
before you talk. I don't think you are so bad, I think you are awesome.
You remind me of the masses, that is what you do.

All things are possible to them that believe. Let that sink
in, now go back and read, you missed everything.

[Coil]

Different take on setup

Hello Clarence & All
I viewed this setup from a different angle…not what the toroid transformers is putting in to the output side, but rather what it is doing to the input and more specifically to the GFCI. (Ground fault circuit interrupter).
The way that the toroid transformers are configured and connected is to prevent the GFCI from tripping. I think that:
1. The blue coil isn’t doing anything…. Or else preventing the GFCI from tripping.
2. Disconnecting any of the toroid transformer legs will cause the GFCI to trip.
3. Bypassing the hot wire on the GFCI and connecting the load to earth and hot will do the same as before.
4. The GFCI is not as safe as before.
I may be wrong….
Respectfully
Coil

[level]

Hello Clarence. Well I did check in once in a while, but just not so recently until now. If you think about it, using a battery and inverter as the power source instead of the mains should really not make any difference at all as far as powering something like a heater or toaster, but this would allow you to measure the current draw from the battery and see what the actual power consumption is when powering a load. Anyway, I hear you that you still are strongly resistant to doing such a simple test to see what is really going on, so I'll leave you with it.

If you are just throwing the power meter off (depends on the type of power meter you have) by just going from the mains hot to your earth ground rod array and bypassing the neutral wire, the power company may still detect it and that could get you in trouble with the power company, but you probably already know that.

[level]

Hello BroMikey. You make it sound like I am a bad guy, but in reality all I have ever done is try to help Clarence to get a better understanding of what is really going on by trying to get him to do a very basic practical test. For some strange reason Clarence has balked against even doing such a simple test. Using only a battery and inverter as the power source (no mains connected in there anywhere) and measuring the battery current draw when powering something like an electric heater is a simple test that I was trying to get Clarence to do from the very beginning, and it should quickly and clearly show what is really going on. It really doesn't get more straightforward and simple than that.

[clarence]

Wrong words and message

Hello Clarence. How are things? Haven't been following very closely for quite some time, but as I have mentioned in the past, do you get the same results when you are not connected to the mains, but power it from batteries and an inverter instead? I think this is an important point that should be made clear before other people go spending a bunch of money trying to build it.

From what I understood, you say the power meter shows it is only using about 8 Watts from the mains (0.07A current draw), so if your setup really is over unity it should be able to power microwaves etc. using just a battery and low power inverter to power it. If powering from the inverter doesn't work the same at all as when you are powering from the mains, then for certain your extra power is coming from the mains, and is not real free energy. So, to make it clear for everyone else here, when you use only a battery and inverter to power it (no mains connection at all, anywhere), does your power meter still show just 0.07A draw from the inverter output while powering your microwave, or is the current draw from the inverter much higher when using the inverter? Your best bet to really be sure what is going on would be to measure the current draw from the 12V battery using a clamp on current meter over a battery wire (set to measure DC current), as those portable power meters can sometimes be fooled depending how you hook things up.

Hello Level,

Good to hear from you.
I am well aware of your past mentioning. It seems they are still the same.
At the present I am following the patent data from all the B&L archives that I have at my disposal. The present setup is a pure and simple design that uses that data.
Their system used a low amperage input from their local utility grid - so does this design.
Their low amperage Utility Grid input enabled their LARGE recovery from a certain number of ground rods. So does my setup.
At present I am content to continue to use it DAILY for my PERSONAL needs as I see fit. In this present course of time I continue to observe it and make upgrades as they are needed.

Now with respect to the battery/inverter thing - myself and a friend member have been working towards that goal for a considerable time now. If you had been curious about that you could have peeked in a time or two and you would already KNOW that.

In the course of time I will get to itwhen it suits me - not you.

With regards to the expenses of other fellow members that is not my decision - NOT yours - but strictly THEIRS. They can and will make that decision for themselves.

Have a good day,

Clarence

[BroMikey]

Hello Clarence. How are things? Haven't been following very closely for quite some time, but as I have mentioned in the past, do you get the same results when you are not connected to the mains, but power it from batteries and an inverter instead? I think this is an important point that should be made clear before other people go spending a bunch of money trying to build it.

From what I understood, you say the power meter shows it is only using about 8 Watts from the mains (0.07A current draw), so if your setup really is over unity it should be able to power microwaves etc. using just a battery and low power inverter to power it. If powering from the inverter doesn't work the same at all as when you are powering from the mains, then for certain your extra power is coming from the mains, and is not real free energy. So, to make it clear for everyone else here, when you use only a battery and inverter to power it (no mains connection at all, anywhere), does your power meter still show just 0.07A draw from the inverter output while powering your microwave, or is the current draw from the inverter much higher when using the inverter? Your best bet to really be sure what is going on would be to measure the current draw from the 12V battery using a clamp on current meter over a battery wire (set to measure DC current), as those portable power meters can sometimes be fooled depending how you hook things up.

Hello Level

I think everyone has the same questions, all over again and from previous
posting it looks like wantomake is eventually going to do that test but
right now Clarence and a few others are spending time with the newest
alterations. Now everyone wants to know if the energy is coming from the
grid or our grid, from the mains or our mains, very confusing in and of itself
to use the same terms for THEIR grid and our GRID.

But like you say we don't have our grid set up yet.

From what I gather Clarence had thought for about 1 year he was not
getting any power from the utility company pole transformer, then he
measured something and I don't know how he arrived at the deduction
but said he basically had failed.

He did not fail completely, just a temporary set back. Now this new setup
seems to be nearly same as the old setup as far as I can tell so my question
would be, what test was made that change Clarence mind?

What test was it that Clarence made that caused him to think his first
setup was drawing power from the grid and what test was it that Clarence
made that showed him he was no longer getting power from the
utility company.

You see I don't know what test he made, you will have to ask him. It is
a valid question and I hope Clarence is up for it. We better let him do
more verification and I am sure he will clarify his reasoning for now
thinking he has something different than he had last year.

Believe or believe not don't mean zhit, we need more to go on than
what we have before the money is spent on all of these boxes.

Now are you happy with my reasoning LEVEL?

From the patent information the utility grid is required to make the unit
function? I am not sure, but if that is the case what is the reasoning
behind it? Most would say it is because some back flowing current is
being harvested in such a way that no meters can read it.

But Clarence was honest enough to own up to the fact that his first
setup was drawing power from the utility company transformer after he
defended that is was not for a year.

The question should be "what test did Clarence use that changed his
mind" helping him to know one way or another. I have read all of the
posts and I must confess it has been a long slow mess of tiring
changes from one experiment to another.

Clarence is a fighter and that is why he will not fail in the end.

PS I told you to be ready for anything Clarence and Level is back.

[flaviop]

ups for power unit

Hello Clarence, Congratulations on your work. I would like to know about what you think of using an online double conversion ups to power the system?
thanks.
flavio pereira

[level]

Hello Clarence. How are things? Haven't been following very closely for quite some time, but as I have mentioned in the past, do you get the same results when you are not connected to the mains, but power it from batteries and an inverter instead? I think this is an important point that should be made clear before other people go spending a bunch of money trying to build it.

From what I understood, you say the power meter shows it is only using about 8 Watts from the mains (0.07A current draw), so if your setup really is over unity it should be able to power microwaves etc. using just a battery and low power inverter to power it. If powering from the inverter doesn't work the same at all as when you are powering from the mains, then for certain your extra power is coming from the mains, and is not real free energy. So, to make it clear for everyone else here, when you use only a battery and inverter to power it (no mains connection at all, anywhere), does your power meter still show just 0.07A draw from the inverter output while powering your microwave, or is the current draw from the inverter much higher when using the inverter? Your best bet to really be sure what is going on would be to measure the current draw from the 12V battery using a clamp on current meter over a battery wire (set to measure DC current), as those portable power meters can sometimes be fooled depending how you hook things up.

[BroMikey]

Good Deal

BroMikey,

Thanks for the heads up!
Yeah, the only thing the Utility grid powers is the Two toroids...........

Hows's things going on your end?

I see everyone is getting excited and chiming in. It has been a long
wait but worth it after all. Yes my work is coming along slow because
I do not have much time each day to work on it. However the winding
table is finished.

Now back to your sweet setup. I see one schematic recently posted
and wondered if that is the entire circuit. Since I have already posted
earlier drawing that were inaccurate, perhaps I should update the
drawing.


It is no hurry, just whatever you want is fine. I see your wrap numbers
have changed slightly on the heavy electron captor amp section.

I am thrilled to see your victory, just get in there and do. That is your
motto. You are going to have folks clamoring from here to
christmas to test the waters now.

Be ready for anything

[Hotdog]

Gas Discharge Tube

Franklin,

That is the symbol for a spark gap. My component library did not have a real gas discharge tube. They are essentially the same by providing an arc-over when a certain voltage level is reached. If I remember correctly, Clarence said his is 150 volts, Mouser part number B88069X2840S102. In his picture it is in the upper left corner on a two-terminal block.

[FRANKLIN]

Gas discharge tube

For those of us who have spent a career thing graphically, here is a simple diagram of what I think Clarence's pictures show. Please advise if there is an error and I will redo it.

Hello
I saw your schematic.
Could you tell me more details about the gas discharge tube.
it looks like it is a SPRAK-GAP?
If I compare this schematic with the picture from clarence, it is the very small piece that is between the negative and the positive?

thanks

franklin

[clarence]

Ordering

Thanks Clarence for taking the time to post your Toroid details

Kind regards and thanks for sharing

Luc

Luc,

When ordering be sure to tell them that it will be for 220volt 50 Hz.
I believe that is right for your area if I remember right (hopefully).

Clarence

[gotoluc]

Thanks Clarence for taking the time to post your Toroid details

Kind regards and thanks for sharing

Luc

[clarence]

Toroid part number and ordering information

Hello GoToLuc,

You had asked for the Toroid Part number and ordering information.

In the thumbnail attachment youwill see the old invoice fro Bridgeport Magnetics Company. Also you will see an image of what they look like.

You should be able to get a hold of them and order what you need from this information.

Hopes this helps Sir!

Clarence

[Hotdog]

Schematic

For those of us who have spent a career thinking graphically, here is a simple diagram of what I think Clarence's pictures show. Please advise if there is an error and I will redo it.