Barbosa and Leal Devices - Info and Replication Details

[clarence]

New keyboard came in

Clarence,
Your keyboard is bad ? That means listening to me for next three days!!

Nothing to add. Just waiting for snail mail to bring my run capacitor. But I'm happy it's two days early. If the heat and oldness doesn't slow me down, then will have something to add. Hopefully.

Later today then,
wantomake

Wantomake,

New keyboard came in so now back to business.
Doing thoughts and reviews in my head this after noon, I had in mind what I said about the GDT and its purpose or non purpose. I assumed it had no purpose. Well one more time I was wrong.
I went back through the photos where it is shown in use and when I saw the photos I also remembered what the application of a GDT is for!

In a nut shell, in all circuits it's used as SAFETY protection devise. This means
that its use is NOT to connect parts of a circuit during NORMAL voltage values in the circuit but rather just the OPPOSITE ! In this case the mains circuit has a value of 120 to 124 volts. This would require that the GDT have a HIGHER value than that! The only higher next available GDT is rated at 150 V. Why would it be wanted for conduction to be at a higher voltage rate than the input could ever be?
It's really simple as the attachment photos show. Bear this in mind - the ground rods are in the GROUND. As such they are prone to LIGHTNING STRIKES! Way higher voltage that any of the components or loads on the circuit could handle.
The GDT is an instantaneous device that delivers the high voltage to the mains or inverter breaker and the GROUND FAULT CIRCUIT INTERRUPTER
Both of which DROP OUT ALL loads that are connected to the devise output.

Again , the attached photo show the circuit relation ship between GDT and
breaker and GFCI.
All of these things are circled in GREEN.

Thanks much J,

Clarence

[wantomake]

Brief?

Wantomake,

I'm chicken pecking at this keyboard (very , very slowly so it doesn't take off in a thousand different directions at one time.

I be brief - So don't think about this info - just do!
The GDT and run cap ARE NOT NEEDED. The GDT had to be a trial -thought by ARIOVALDO -My opinion. Just get rid of the whole HOT LEAD to the Ground side and it is just the ole fool the meter system PERIOD!!!!

THE B&L actual system OPERATED with ONLY the HOT LEAD to the Toroid!!!!
From that point on is how they were able to LINK the INPUT SIDE to the GROUND SIDE. Think on this- BOTH the Torroid AND the shorted LOOP
have Line side Hot voltage in them. Tomorrow I will make a small shorted
loop with this Toroid and prove my point. I will completely remove the #1.0
shorted loop and and replace it with an #18 AWG one. I already know what it will do - it's called SMOKE & FIRE! That smoke and fire comes from an
AC CIRCUIT with that contains AC VOLTS & Amperage and Has to be provided by LINE and NEUTRAL voltage!
GET IT!

How they were able to transfer the LINE voltage from that LOOP and AVOID any DIRECT lead back to the Toroid original LINE input is what I want to find out.
You and the others (not being de-meaning at all) will be wondering, Why would this frigging idiot say that.
ANSWER: The ONLY INPUT TO THEIR SYSTEM (and was shown onTV and You Tube) Was 0.10 AMPS! X their 220 volt europe sytem = 22 WATTS !!!
No matter what load they put on their system that V/A/W NEVER INCREASED! At the present time with my build when you put a Clamp meter on the Line input and their is a load the amperage on the system input will climb like a monkey.

When you look at my build Pics you will see a HOT lead from the SAME HOT
Toroid input that ALSO GOES straight to load!
That is a GIANT SCREW UP that HAS TO BE OVERCOME!

Until this mystery is solved everything else has to take second place.

Enough slow chicken pecking.

Later J,

Clarence

Clarence,
Ok, brief. I just installed the run capacitor and seen the GDT glow for the first time. So we don't need them in this system???
But you think Ariovaldo was guessing. I talked to fer123 who said Ariovaldo told him there were two "VCL slim clamper" on the loop. I'm thinking these were used to extract the ground energy. But do you see them in the pictures Ariovaldo posted? No. Here is the link to look at the VCL if you want to:

https://www.eletrorede.com.br/para-r...slim-275v.html.
It's in Portuguese or something cause I tried to chat with the company. Lost in translation big time. I googled "VCL slim clamper" and got nothing at all. But VCL is only sold in Brazil. Go figure.

Something must be attached to the loop to produce "FREE Energy". Where can the excess power come from if not from the aether or the Earth.

So back to basic patent,
wantomake

[clarence]

Ha! Ha!

Clarence,
Your keyboard is bad ? That means listening to me for next three days!!

Nothing to add. Just waiting for snail mail to bring my run capacitor. But I'm happy it's two days early. If the heat and oldness doesn't slow me down, then will have something to add. Hopefully.

Later today then,
wantomake

Wantomake,

I'm chicken pecking at this keyboard (very , very slowly so it doesn't take off in a thousand different directions at one time.

I be brief - So don't think about this info - just do!
The GDT and run cap ARE NOT NEEDED. The GDT had to be a trial -thought by ARIOVALDO -My opinion. Just get rid of the whole HOT LEAD to the Ground side and it is just the ole fool the meter system PERIOD!!!!

THE B&L actual system OPERATED with ONLY the HOT LEAD to the Toroid!!!!
From that point on is how they were able to LINK the INPUT SIDE to the GROUND SIDE. Think on this- BOTH the Torroid AND the shorted LOOP
have Line side Hot voltage in them. Tomorrow I will make a small shorted
loop with this Toroid and prove my point. I will completely remove the #1.0
shorted loop and and replace it with an #18 AWG one. I already know what it will do - it's called SMOKE & FIRE! That smoke and fire comes from an
AC CIRCUIT with that contains AC VOLTS & Amperage and Has to be provided by LINE and NEUTRAL voltage!
GET IT!

How they were able to transfer the LINE voltage from that LOOP and AVOID any DIRECT lead back to the Toroid original LINE input is what I want to find out.
You and the others (not being de-meaning at all) will be wondering, Why would this frigging idiot say that.
ANSWER: The ONLY INPUT TO THEIR SYSTEM (and was shown onTV and You Tube) Was 0.10 AMPS! X their 220 volt europe sytem = 22 WATTS !!!
No matter what load they put on their system that V/A/W NEVER INCREASED! At the present time with my build when you put a Clamp meter on the Line input and their is a load the amperage on the system input will climb like a monkey.

When you look at my build Pics you will see a HOT lead from the SAME HOT
Toroid input that ALSO GOES straight to load!
That is a GIANT SCREW UP that HAS TO BE OVERCOME!

Until this mystery is solved everything else has to take second place.

Enough slow chicken pecking.

Later J,

Clarence

[wantomake]

Wantomake,

You always know best for yourself!
tried to send post earlier but my damn keyboard kept screwing up.
New one from Amazon in tomorrow.
So no more posts till Mon.
Hate that - had some things to say.

Clarence

Clarence,
Your keyboard is bad ? That means listening to me for next three days!!

Nothing to add. Just waiting for snail mail to bring my run capacitor. But I'm happy it's two days early. If the heat and oldness doesn't slow me down, then will have something to add. Hopefully.

Later today then,
wantomake

[clarence]

Wise thought direction

Clarence,
This heat is a pain in the rear end of my tractor.

Just sitting and enjoying early morning coffee while looking through forums and one eye out the front door at jungle begging to be mowed.

After receiving the cap I'll be able to see this setup work and try more ways to use the batt/inverter. My shop is 130 +- feet from the house, so using this to power anything would look suspicious to any power company trucks. Best to just leave it a toy for now. If we are able use this to save energy, then I can box size it with cooling fan, carrying handles, batt/inverter(or mains), and use it in my house. Just to power a floor fan or something.

No attention drawn leaves problems outside the gate. Leave the toy a toy. I always speak of myself. Never assuming toward you or anyone as your years prove helpful and appreciated.

The dew is heavy, sun's peaking behind the trees, coffee is cold. Time to reheat the coffee to kick this day out the door.

wantomake
PS: Only bought (3) 90 volt GDT's but ok so far.

Wantomake,

You always know best for yourself!
tried to send post earlier but my damn keyboard kept screwing up.
New one from Amazon in tomorrow.
So no more posts till Mon.
Hate that - had some things to say.

Clarence

[wantomake]

Wantomake,

The gist of it all is that I share the same end goal as you, namely a proven
working energy producing B&L unit that WILL power loads Plus a smart charger to keep a battery bank at high voltage and let an Inverter do it's constant steady thing.
I am definitely NOT in love with the mains program - rather the exact opposite.


Have been out on farm doing works, etc, this AM but had to haul ass back to A/C to cool off. 90+ here with steamy haze from high humidity. That's what puts me in sit down mode quick.
Finally finished pump work so from now on I can get back busy on the "toy".

Ordered me another 50 ft roll of #6 AWG batt cable wire from Pacer Group
to make many more trials to get this thing to actually do something for a change.
Even a few volts and amps could be an indication of at least some kind of direction to go. Been slim picken's so far.

Thanks J,
EDIT: I also ordered me 10 more 90 volt GDT so I can Really PLAY!

Clarence

Clarence,
This heat is a pain in the rear end of my tractor.

Just sitting and enjoying early morning coffee while looking through forums and one eye out the front door at jungle begging to be mowed.

After receiving the cap I'll be able to see this setup work and try more ways to use the batt/inverter. My shop is 130 +- feet from the house, so using this to power anything would look suspicious to any power company trucks. Best to just leave it a toy for now. If we are able use this to save energy, then I can box size it with cooling fan, carrying handles, batt/inverter(or mains), and use it in my house. Just to power a floor fan or something.

No attention drawn leaves problems outside the gate. Leave the toy a toy. I always speak of myself. Never assuming toward you or anyone as your years prove helpful and appreciated.

The dew is heavy, sun's peaking behind the trees, coffee is cold. Time to reheat the coffee to kick this day out the door.

wantomake
PS: Only bought (3) 90 volt GDT's but ok so far.

[clarence]

Right on ole friend

Clarence,
Calm down you need some coffee!! Haha no wait maybe I do..!!!

But true, the inverter/battery is a pain in the bottom area. The mains is a good steady power source to work out the bugs.

As soon as wife's boss gets here, I'll head home and to the shop. If the heat holds off I can work a little on this.

Of course you always keep me on point and I appreciate your drive to finish this project.

Was that a Starbucks I just passed.........
Later ole friend,
wantomake
Edit: Ordered a capacitor and should be here Monday.

Wantomake,

The gist of it all is that I share the same end goal as you, namely a proven
working energy producing B&L unit that WILL power loads Plus a smart charger to keep a battery bank at high voltage and let an Inverter do it's constant steady thing.
I am definitely NOT in love with the mains program - rather the exact opposite.


Have been out on farm doing works, etc, this AM but had to haul ass back to A/C to cool off. 90+ here with steamy haze from high humidity. That's what puts me in sit down mode quick.
Finally finished pump work so from now on I can get back busy on the "toy".

Ordered me another 50 ft roll of #6 AWG batt cable wire from Pacer Group
to make many more trials to get this thing to actually do something for a change.
Even a few volts and amps could be an indication of at least some kind of direction to go. Been slim picken's so far.

Thanks J,
EDIT: I also ordered me 10 more 90 volt GDT so I can Really PLAY!

Clarence

[wantomake]

True

Clarence,
Calm down you need some coffee!! Haha no wait maybe I do..!!!

But true, the inverter/battery is a pain in the bottom area. The mains is a good steady power source to work out the bugs.

As soon as wife's boss gets here, I'll head home and to the shop. If the heat holds off I can work a little on this.

Of course you always keep me on point and I appreciate your drive to finish this project.

Was that a Starbucks I just passed.........
Later ole friend,
wantomake
Edit: Ordered a capacitor and should be here Monday.

[clarence]

Explained that before

Clarence,
But my interest is using a inverter/battery as the patent shows if possible. Why you may ask after a sip of "wake me up". Well when that dependable power goes off, then what?

Coffee needs a refill,
wantomake

Wantomake

I explained back some posts that when A utility company goes off line
( a black out ) and you are depending on it with this toy Then you are SCREWED! It's not a new scenario to me.

Now let me give you some advice about a Batt/Inverter program with this toy.
You consider it the ULTIMATE ANSWER. IT IS NOT! Not even Close!
In a batt/inverter type scenario the battery is KING! At present this toy will
NOT support any charger action whether it's a Smart Charger or Whatever!
So the length of use of a battery/inverter program is limited in MINUTES
until its voltage level drops low enough to make the the inverter FAIL.

You seem to think that I am willing to use the mains as a permanen type of arrangement . W R O N G !
I said it BEFORE and I am saying it AGAIN - I use the mains because it is EASIER to make trials of different methods than a pain in the ass batt/inverter.

Clarence

[wantomake]

Run cap rules !!!

Wantomake,

You need to use ONLY a RUN CAP - Awhile back I found out A start cap WILL cause HEAT.

Also I am NOT running an air conditioner!
I AM running a REFRIGERATOR and MICROWAVE OVEN.

A fool the meter routine involves the input from the mains and the alternating NEUTRAL being supplied Through the EARTH.

For the amps to show on the UTILITY METER the input and neutral return BOTH PASS THROUGH THE METER - no pass through and the meter just scratches it head and wonders ? and keeps on passing and receiving energy
to the rest of a household or what ever.
If its done on a large basis then the Utility will take notice sooner or later
and send someone out to see whats going on!

A brand new toy is always puzzling to most But I have 80 years of HOW TO DO behind my methods and STILL LEARNING.

Still finishing pump problems so not done much with new toy today.

Giv'er a SIP for me!

Clarence

Clarence,
Sipping that golden liquid this AM and musing over these forum entries.

Run cap is king. Ok. Will fire up Amazon, eBay, Digi-key, or Mouser. But until that part makes it's way down the snail trail, I'll enjoy waching this version of the setup run.

No I'm not attracting the attention of any power company just to save money on a electric bill. But my interest is using a inverter/battery as the patent shows if possible. Why you may ask after a sip of "wake me up". Well when that dependable power goes off, then what?

Coffee needs a refill,
wantomake

[clarence]

Clarence,
Finally got wires on block terminals correctly. Connected the cap where you specified and "it's coffee time". The 100 watt bulb as the load lite good and bright for a little while and the temperature on the GDT increased. But then the bulb went to half lumens and the GDT cooled down to ambient temp. Which is a cool and comfortable 95°. But I'm not sure if it makes any difference using run or startup capacitor. I ordered the same two you had earlier in our e-mail's.

Did any of your loads act any certain way as this? I changed the GDT to new one but was the same amount of brightness.

Also, if you are running a refrig and air conditioner unit through this setup, how is your unit not pulling any amps on the meter?

Sorry about so many questions.
But this setup has me curious now that the amp clamp shows small amperage from the ground.

wantomake

Wantomake,

You need to use ONLY a RUN CAP - Awhile back I found out A start cap WILL cause HEAT.

Also I am NOT running an air conditioner!
I AM running a REFRIGERATOR and MICROWAVE OVEN.

A fool the meter routine involves the input from the mains and the alternating NEUTRAL being supplied Through the EARTH.

For the amps to show on the UTILITY METER the input and neutral return BOTH PASS THROUGH THE METER - no pass through and the meter just scratches it head and wonders ? and keeps on passing and receiving energy
to the rest of a household or what ever.
If its done on a large basis then the Utility will take notice sooner or later
and send someone out to see whats going on!

A brand new toy is always puzzling to most But I have 80 years of HOW TO DO behind my methods and STILL LEARNING.

Still finishing pump problems so not done much with new toy today.

Giv'er a SIP for me!

Clarence

[wantomake]

Cap

Clarence,
Finally got wires on block terminals correctly. Connected the cap where you specified and "it's coffee time". The 100 watt bulb as the load lite good and bright for a little while and the temperature on the GDT increased. But then the bulb went to half lumens and the GDT cooled down to ambient temp. Which is a cool and comfortable 95°. But I'm not sure if it makes any difference using run or startup capacitor. I ordered the same two you had earlier in our e-mail's.

Did any of your loads act any certain way as this? I changed the GDT to new one but was the same amount of brightness.

Also, if you are running a refrig and air conditioner unit through this setup, how is your unit not pulling any amps on the meter?

Sorry about so many questions.
But this setup has me curious now that the amp clamp shows small amperage from the ground.

wantomake

[clarence]

Gotch'a

Clarence,
Ok. Good picture. I see what you did now. My belief was powering this project with inverter to avoid that whole meter thing. But it's not to be.

Will add a cap where you specify. Then try with mains power just to do faster testing plus find a way to use inverter/battery power.

Well I need to reheat my coffee,
wantomake

Wantomake,

This post is just to let you know we're on the same Page.
When I find out anything New then I will get back to you.


Good sippin!

Clarence

[wantomake]

Wantomake,

Here is the present Mains set up. Powered by a 20 amp mains wall outlet/extension cord.
Without the 5 mf Run capacitor between the GDT and the Ground wire return
this circuit will Auto trip the breaker. ?
This Cap setup is also needed for a batt/inverter route ( PLUS a neutral ground rod INPUT) to keep the inverter from Auto trip also.

Basically it's a Fool the Meter layout - at present I use Two HEAVY DUTY
drop cards to power my Fridge (green cord) and my microwave oven (yellow cord). NONE of the power load is reflected through the mains meter.
Will only do this until trials are over!
As far as I can tell not having a Capacitor in this manner is what prevented
the Ariovaldo unit from working - Everything Else is all the same - EXACTLY!

However will still keep working to get the Captor thing understood with a reasonable explanation of does it WORK or NOT?

Sat with daughter in law on patio this PM and had some good coffee!!!!!
NICE NICE NICE!

Hope you can get yours working J, the mains thing is a lot easier to get a whole lot of trials done in a shorter time space - Time is everything (cept for lots'a Joe) .

Clarence

Clarence,
Ok. Good picture. I see what you did now. My belief was powering this project with inverter to avoid that whole meter thing. But it's not to be.

Will add a cap where you specify. Then try with mains power just to do faster testing plus find a way to use inverter/battery power.

Well I need to reheat my coffee,
wantomake

[clarence]

Mains setup - with gdt and run cap

Clarence,
Ok tgen I'll connect it to tge mains tomorrow and run the same tests.

So are you still using this setup like a Utility Company? How are you setup now?

Yes I'm using an inverter and battery power.

wantomake

Wantomake,

Here is the present Mains set up. Powered by a 20 amp mains wall outlet/extension cord.
Without the 5 mf Run capacitor between the GDT and the Ground wire return
this circuit will Auto trip the breaker. ?
This Cap setup is also needed for a batt/inverter route ( PLUS a neutral ground rod INPUT) to keep the inverter from Auto trip also.

Basically it's a Fool the Meter layout - at present I use Two HEAVY DUTY
drop cards to power my Fridge (green cord) and my microwave oven (yellow cord). NONE of the power load is reflected through the mains meter.
Will only do this until trials are over!
As far as I can tell not having a Capacitor in this manner is what prevented
the Ariovaldo unit from working - Everything Else is all the same - EXACTLY!

However will still keep working to get the Captor thing understood with a reasonable explanation of does it WORK or NOT?

Sat with daughter in law on patio this PM and had some good coffee!!!!!
NICE NICE NICE!

Hope you can get yours working J, the mains thing is a lot easier to get a whole lot of trials done in a shorter time space - Time is everything (cept for lots'a Joe) .

Clarence