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Barbosa and Leal Devices - Info and Replication Details

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  • edwins
    replied
    Originally posted by clarence View Post
    Hello edwins,

    I see you make the same mistake as everyone does!
    the so called red wire is just a reconstruct of previous schematic info posted on this thread!

    the color of the wire is and should be GREEN!!!! its the international color code for GROUND or GROUND WIRES! I assume whoever highlighted the wire just used red to illustrate a particular point he was trying to make?
    this is the actual set up for the EARTH GROUND RETURN WIRE!

    Also use this schematic - it is a lot more detailed and specific.


    also I am wondering why you are wanting these details since you are in the blue zone????????????? that would be a mistake for sure!

    the black wire is tinned multistranded # 4 AWG.

    the GREEN wire is tinned multistranded # 6 AWG.

    Regards,

    Clarence


    Thank you Clarence. The schematic is more detailed.
    We have some place in the red zone.

    Edwins

    Leave a comment:


  • clarence
    replied
    Originally posted by edwins View Post
    Clarence,

    Brother i have to inquiries:

    What is the size of the thick black wire wrap around the two toroids as secondaries?

    What is the size of the red wire(connected to the ground) wrap around the thick black wire?

    Thanks
    Edwins
    Hello edwins,

    I see you make the same mistake as everyone does!
    the so called red wire is just a reconstruct of previous schematic info posted on this thread!

    the color of the wire is and should be GREEN!!!! its the international color code for GROUND or GROUND WIRES! I assume whoever highlighted the wire just used red to illustrate a particular point he was trying to make?
    this is the actual set up for the EARTH GROUND RETURN WIRE!

    Also use this schematic - it is a lot more detailed and specific.


    also I am wondering why you are wanting these details since you are in the blue zone????????????? that would be a mistake for sure!

    the black wire is tinned multistranded # 4 AWG.

    the GREEN wire is tinned multistranded # 6 AWG.

    Regards,

    Clarence

    Leave a comment:


  • edwins
    replied
    Originally posted by edwins View Post
    Clarence,

    Thank you very much brother!
    I belong to the blue zone.

    Edwins

    Clarence,

    Brother i have to inquiries:

    What is the size of the thick black wire wrap around the two toroids as secondaries?

    What is the size of the red wire(connected to the ground) wrap around the thick black wire?

    Thanks
    Edwins
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • edwins
    replied
    Originally posted by clarence
    Hello edwins,

    here it is! the blank spots are simply places they were not allowed to enter at time of making their magnetic map.


    the red zones are the good spots and blue is the poorest. the green and
    yellow are the same as my location - piss poor! hope you are in the red area!

    Best Of Regards,

    Clarence


    Clarence,

    Thank you very much brother!
    I belong to the blue zone.

    Edwins

    Leave a comment:


  • edwins
    replied
    Originally posted by clarence
    Hello edwins,

    I don't know why people keep thinking I have a working GROUND generator when I do not. I have stated many many times in a lot of past post that my unit is actually no better than an any battery and large watt inverter set up.
    the REASON for this is due to MY LOCATION!!!!! the earth crust magnetic anomaly for my location is somewhere around a - (negative) 30 nTesla value
    which is so piss poor it took me a total of 60 ground rods just to get it
    to perform as well as the plain ole battery - inverter set up I mentioned
    earlier.

    my advise to everyone is to first check the earth crust magnetic anomaly for
    their location and if it is not at least a + 140 nTesla value then don't waste your time and money.
    Also DO NOT TRY THE SMARTPHONE pullup of the earths nTesla value for ANY magnetic anomaly because all you will get is the same old misleading trash I have seen a lot of others spouting about lately. I haven't said anything about it before but that's just what it is! TRASH! use the values stated on an ACTUAL magnetic map of the anomaly for your area!


    this is the map info I used (way to late sad to say) .
    the smartphone pull up does not even give the supposed Tesla value in the correct denomination either.

    If anything that is worth doing it is always worth doing correctly!

    regards,

    Clarence


    Hello Clarence,

    I find it hard to look for the earth magnetic anomaly in our place. Would it be possible to ask help from you about the nTesla in our place(Cebu City, Philippines)?

    Thank you very brother!

    Edwins

    Leave a comment:


  • edwins
    replied
    Originally posted by clarence
    Hello BroMikey,

    no correction needed sir!
    Just an A+ salute for your member to member kindness as always!

    Best Regards BRO!

    Clarence

    Clarence,

    What is power output of your existing ground generator now?
    Thanks!

    Edwins

    Leave a comment:


  • clarence
    replied
    Best schematic for getting started use

    Originally posted by reddb49 View Post
    Yes he probably will! Thanks a lot. I will get started on this and put my rod spacing to 2 feet then. Sweet, looking forward to this build.
    Hello reddb49,

    this is the best schematic for starting out.
    I would advise just going with a few rods to start and then go as needed.

    If later you see it might be needed then you can connect the single NEUTRAL
    powered rod to somewhere towards the middle of the other rod array but try it first without and then see what happens.

    Regards,

    Clarence

    Leave a comment:


  • reddb49
    replied
    Yes he probably will! Thanks a lot. I will get started on this and put my rod spacing to 2 feet then. Sweet, looking forward to this build.

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by reddb49 View Post
    I have been trying to find that post where it shows the layout of the ground rods but as many times I have read over the post I must be missing it. A lot of the earlier post that showed some diagrams has been removed but I would appreciate if you could direct me to that post diagram. Thanks!
    Respectively,
    Redd
    I will post a few so maybe I made a mistake? Clarence will see this
    very soon and correct us both.



    Leave a comment:


  • reddb49
    replied
    I have been trying to find that post where it shows the layout of the ground rods but as many times I have read over the post I must be missing it. A lot of the earlier post that showed some diagrams has been removed but I would appreciate if you could direct me to that post diagram. Thanks!
    Respectively,
    Redd

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    It is my understanding that the spacing of the ground rod system
    was best decided thru a trial and error method leaving us with
    a 2 foot measurement.

    So many sending or a few sending rods you might say and many
    many more receiving all at 2 feet away from each rod set.

    The thread shows this layout of 5 or 6 sending and 60 receiving if
    memory serves. Also using the iron rod with the copper plating.

    Some have installed a few rods and tried them as they added more
    even Clarence did this.

    Leave a comment:


  • reddb49
    replied
    I have been reading this forum on Barbosa and Leal Devices from the beginning. Some places several times. Taking notes and gathering material to get started on my replication also. I have admired Clarence's build and the way BroMikey has explained some things I was having a hard time understanding. My hats off to you both on the time and energy it take to keep at something like a build like this. My question is I have lots of room to put a ground system in with ground rods but I have not found a good diagram on how is the best way to arrange these in the ground. It shows that all rods are series ed in the ground on the drawing but the 6 awg wire is connected in the middle going to the neutral on the sine wave inverter. I live in a area in north AL that shows to be in the pink area on the magnetic maps, and even tried a app someone suggested at it showed to be in the 48-53 uT on my phone. Would also starting out with 20 ground rods spaced 3 feet apart a good start? Does 5 of the 20 rods need to be connected in the middle of the other 15 rods, if I start out with 20 rods or does it matter?

    Respectively,
    Redd

    Leave a comment:


  • JohnStone
    replied
    Wait a minute, that is not the whole goal and truth of the initial use of heterodyne principle. We should not mix the heterodyne principle with audio demodulation. The initial goal was not audio demodulation from high frequency only.
    First radio sets had to provide broad band amplifiers in order to cover the whole band (e.g. short wave). Now it is difficult to build a good and linear amplifier over a range of frequencies. Lots of unwanted artifacts and behaviors arise.
    In order to get rid of these bad behaviors they mixed a variable frequency to the HF rx signal in order to get at output a fixed center frequency (e.g. 455 KHz or 10.7 MHz were usual. Essential is that at these agreed frequencies no radio is allowed to transmit else they would mix to ANY radio station where we tune in!!). This heterodyn signal still contained the audio modulation but now at a fixed and shifted frequency. So they could optimize their amplifiers and filters to this fixed frequency and consecutive amplification and filtering discarded all cross modulations and one got clear and well amplified signals for use. No magic but very smart!
    In the end of this amplifier chain they used a mixer and filters - of course - to demodulate in order to obtain that clear audio signal.

    Nevertheless the principle of mixing frequencies can be used as tool in order to generate a lower frequency (e.g. 60 Hz). But please be aware that the mix products usually are of much lower power compared to the trigger frequencies. Thus it can be used only if the coupling and backlash to output can really be blocked. This property needs to be refined and elicited. Else we have just a lossy transformer. So, mixing frequencies as only means does not add the magic by itself.
    Last edited by JohnStone; 07-07-2016, 12:18 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • clarence
    replied
    Originally posted by BroMikey View Post


    Clarence that is a great great idea to use a BFO I have
    always remembered the old books when i did some radio
    way back when. I love all the good old circuits and everybody
    needs to remember as you know, each circuit has a special place.

    Here is a basic description of what you are talking about so our
    viewers can understand what the goal is for the final stage. The
    old ways of heterodyne have been lost so it is time to bring it back.

    You really are going for the best final. Yes filters were suggested
    as we remember when DON S. talked but he didn't go into the
    depths of what that really takes. I think we have our answer now.:
    [/FONT][/I][/B]
    Hello BroMikey,

    thanks for listening in and your info input.

    always good to hear from you!!!!!!!!

    Respectively,

    Clarence

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied


    Clarence that is a great great idea to use a BFO I have
    always remembered the old books when i did some radio
    way back when. I love all the good old circuits and everybody
    needs to remember as you know, each circuit has a special place.

    Here is a basic description of what you are talking about so our
    viewers can understand what the goal is for the final stage. The
    old ways of heterodyne have been lost so it is time to bring it back.

    You really are going for the best final. Yes filters were suggested
    as we remember when DON S. talked but he didn't go into the
    depths of what that really takes. I think we have our answer now.

    In the most readily available material on the subject the targeted
    final stage is audio but we can't forget that by using this method
    any frequency is possible just as easily. It doesn't HAVE to be in
    the audio range of 20khz, it could be used just as well like you
    pointed out at 60hz.

    Below is a discussion about a lost art of true radio roots.



    The beat frequency oscillator (BFO) i

    Beat Frequency Audio Oscillator

    The BFO has mainly two RF oscillators. One of the oscillator gives a fixed frequency and the other one produces variable frequency. The variable frequency will be slightly different from the fixed frequency. The fixed and variable frequency outputs are fed to a heterodyne or mixer device. The sum and difference terms of frequencies f1 and f2 are obtained as the output of the mixer. It is so arranged that the difference terms of frequencies f1 and f2 lies in the audio-frequency range. All the RF components, leaving only the audio-frequency difference component, are removed in the RF filter. Audio-frequency output is then amplified in the AF amplifier.

    It should be noted that the two RF oscillators are completely isolated from each other. If there is any sort of coupling between them, they will synchronize when the difference is small.

    Beat frequency audio-oscillator has become obsolete now, because of its complicated circuit and Wien bridge oscillator has taken its place, which has already been described.
    Last edited by BroMikey; 07-06-2016, 08:59 AM.

    Leave a comment:

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