Barbosa and Leal Devices - Info and Replication Details

[clarence]

Thanks for support

Hello Mr Clarence, It feels good to be tutored for somebody, Hope you can find something good and help us and teach that will be excellent, Wish the best and hope you find what are you looking for.

Hello fer123,

yes, learning IS good when the source of the learning comes from very
dedicated and valued fellow members.

looking forward to success no matter how long it takes.

respectfully,

Clarence

[bugaian]

Hello luc2010,

[URL=http://s328.photobucket.com/user/Clarenc/media/GDT-GAS%20DISCHARGE%20TUBE_zpsu0xabnag.jpg.html][/URLthis is where I
get mine.

notice the symbol for a GDT is the same as the previous schematic shows!

best info source I can give for in my country!

Suggest you try same in your country!

Respectfully,

Clarence

Hello Clarence,

thanks for good work and information posted. I am trying to replicate your setup but its not clear for me where to place that spark gap or gas discharge tube. May be you have it posted but I did not see it?

Is it for the version with 2 symmetrical toroids or only the one with one toroid in place?

Thanks.

Vitalie.

[clarence]

This one

[QUOTE=bugaian;287667]Hello Clarence,

thanks for good work and information posted. I am trying to replicate your setup but its not clear for me where to place that spark gap or gas discharge tube. May be you have it posted but I did not see it?

Is it for the version with 2 symmetrical toroids or only the one with one toroid in place?

Thanks.

Vitalie.[/QUOTE)

Hello Vitalie,

YOU SEE IT IN THIS SCHEMATIC:



it is in the place where you see the exact same symbol as the BOURNS
two electrode GDT .

it is a plasma type device that POLARIZES the ground return system with the
HOT input wire thus enabling the ground return and the HOT input to operate as an in phase circuit and draw its amperage by means of the complete green wire (two turns) around the large BLACK wire of the CAPTOR LOOP.
It also serves as a safety device for the rest of the components that PRECEDE it !! it will BLOW OUT at 600-900 surge volts according to it's rating.

Regards,

Clarence

[djarno]

[QUOTE=clarence;287677]

Hello Clarence,

thanks for good work and information posted. I am trying to replicate your setup but its not clear for me where to place that spark gap or gas discharge tube. May be you have it posted but I did not see it?

Is it for the version with 2 symmetrical toroids or only the one with one toroid in place?

Thanks.

Vitalie.[/QUOTE)

Hello Vitalie,

YOU SEE IT IN THIS SCHEMATIC:



it is in the place where you see the exact same symbol as the BOURNS
two electrode GDT .

it is a plasma type device that POLARIZES the ground return system with the
HOT input wire thus enabling the ground return and the HOT input to operate as an in phase circuit and draw its amperage by means of the complete green wire (two turns) around the large BLACK wire of the CAPTOR LOOP.
It also serves as a safety device for the rest of the components that PRECEDE it !! it will BLOW OUT at 600-900 surge volts according to it's rating.

Regards,

Clarence

Where does ct stand for on the right in the picture, as an secondary toroid or?

Also just gotten 10 75v ac discharge tubes, and 230 volt is coming as well.
Gonna wire the system up, saw it working before perhaps the charged discharge tubes keeps it looping\running.

I've noticed with 9 rods I could pull 6,6 amps without pulling amps from inverter only potential (voltage ⚡)

Sincerely.

[kenssurplus]

I would say CT stands for Current Transformer (since it leads directly to an ammeter). Not sure of the rating for it though. I know there are 1:10 and 1:50 etc....but it really depends on your ammeter that you are ataching, and how many amps you plan to meter.

[clarence]

Current transducer

I would say CT stands for Current Transformer (since it leads directly to an ammeter). Not sure of the rating for it though. I know there are 1:10 and 1:50 etc....but it really depends on your ammeter that you are ataching, and how many amps you plan to meter.

Hello kenssurplus,

you are correct in your assumption. they are a piezoelectric transducer
and one of them used by B&L is shown in this photo by Ariovaldo before
he destroyed the captor that he had purchased because he assumed it was a failure and was not worth having.

Actually it was a VALID unit as they ALL are, however neither B&L nor himself were aware at that time that it was the LOCATION in Florida
that was defeating it's usage!!!!

Florida's MAGNETIC MAP anomaly color code is mainly the same color as MINE! LOUSY!!!!

[djarno]

Hello kenssurplus,

you are correct in your assumption. they are a piezoelectric transducer
and one of them used by B&L is shown in this photo by Ariovaldo before
he destroyed the captor that he had purchased because he assumed it was a failure and was not worth having.

Actually it was a VALID unit as they ALL are, however neither B&L nor himself were aware at that time that it was the LOCATION in Florida
that was defeating it's usage!!!!

Florida's MAGNETIC MAP anomaly color code is mainly the same color as MINE! LOUSY!!!!

Gonna test tomorrow with ground setup. Probably won't work but not giving up. I've saw with my own eyes 👀 and clamp meter that it was pulling amps from the electron trap or ground but not from the inverter 🔀.

Gr.

[djarno]

Gonna test tomorrow with ground setup. Probably won't work but not giving up. I've saw with my own eyes 👀 and clamp meter that it was pulling amps from the electron trap or ground but not from the inverter 🔀.

Gr.

As expected it didn't work, have the same results as before.
Have an volt arranger before the toroids because it's hitting over 700 amps.

See pictures, any comments let me know. The two ✌ cables from ground are 1 in and 8 back.
Don't tell me to hammer more ground rods because I've seen it working heating the heater before.

Gr.

[clarence]

Wiring not correct

[QUOTE=djarno;287814]As expected it didn't work, have the same results as before.
Have an volt arranger before the toroids because it's hitting over 700 amps.

See pictures, any comments let me know. The two ✌ cables from ground are 1 in and 8 back.
Don't tell me to hammer more ground rods because I've seen it working heating the heater before.

Gr.[/QUOTe}

djarno,

I saw your previous post the other day and noticed that the toroid
connections were not correct , but I decided NOT to say anything for the time being until you had finished whatever you were going to do.

now you have asked for comments , so I will give you those things that I saw were not correct.

1. the black wire loops on the toroids are only 1 1/2 turns on each one instead of 2 1/2 turns on each one as they should be.

2. BOTH of the black wire loops should be in the same direction when they are set side by side and they are NOT. (note the photo that I have included that shows how to do it!)

3. the white wires to the primaries should be connected TOGETHER and THEN
connected to the Neutral inverter input!

4.the brown wires to the primaries should be connected TOGETHER and THEN
connected to the LINE inverter input!

with these wrong connections you have DEFEATED the killing of the LENZ
action which was supposed to happen. THAT is why you have such HIGH AMPERAGE when you make measurements!

the way you have the primaries connected, you have them working AGAINST each other!

I believe if you make these corrections you will start making some progress.

as always - not my build so do what you want.

respectfully,

Clarence

[djarno]

[QUOTE=clarence;287815]

As expected it didn't work, have the same results as before.
Have an volt arranger before the toroids because it's hitting over 700 amps.

See pictures, any comments let me know. The two ✌ cables from ground are 1 in and 8 back.
Don't tell me to hammer more ground rods because I've seen it working heating the heater before.

Gr.[/QUOTe}

djarno,

I saw your previous post the other day and noticed that the toroid
connections were not correct , but I decided NOT to say anything for the time being until you had finished whatever you were going to do.

now you have asked for comments , so I will give you those things that I saw were not correct.

1. the black wire loops on the toroids are only 1 1/2 turns on each one instead of 2 1/2 turns on each one as they should be.

2. BOTH of the black wire loops should be in the same direction when they are set side by side and they are NOT. (note the photo that I have included that shows how to do it!)

3. the white wires to the primaries should be connected TOGETHER and THEN
connected to the Neutral inverter input!

4.the brown wires to the primaries should be connected TOGETHER and THEN
connected to the LINE inverter input!

with these wrong connections you have DEFEATED the killing of the LENZ
action which was supposed to happen. THAT is why you have such HIGH AMPERAGE when you make measurements!

the way you have the primaries connected, you have them working AGAINST each other!

I believe if you make these corrections you will start making some progress.

as always - not my build so do what you want.

respectfully,

Clarence

Thank you I re-attach them later today.

2.5 turn most likely an overkill for my short wire but oh well.
You've cross-connected them right, the high amp cable/trap, as an X ?

EDIT : the high amps are obv in the electron trap and not at the inverter.

Sincerely.

[clarence]

[QUOTE=djarno;287818][QUOTE=clarence;287815]
Thank you I re-attach them later today.

2.5 turn most likely an overkill for my short wire but oh well.
You've cross-connected them right, the high amp cable/trap, as an X ?

EDIT : the high amps are obv in the electron trap and not at the inverter.

Sincerely.[/QUOTE}

Hello,

Leave it at 1/12 turns! will be good for light bulbs - but for THERMAL loads you would need the extra wraps. they advised 2 - 3 wraps for light electrical
loads but stated that 4-5 or more would be needed for thermal loads.
not my words - THEIR words! do what you want!

FORGET ABOUT THE X business!!!!!!
the TOP black wire #4 AWG of one toroid connects to the TOP black wire #4 AWG of the other toroid!!!!!!

the BOTTOM black wire #4 AWG of one toroid connects to the BOTTOM black #4 AWG
wire of the other toroid!!!!!

keep thinking about the X business and you will make another screw up!

respectfully,

Clarence

[BroMikey]

Thank you Clarence

This clears up all of my questions from past explanations.
I use to think this was this and I use to think it might be
???????????????????????

Someone else said it the other way, and frankly until now
I wasn't sure. This eliminates all other reasoning.

Regardless of how one explains these loops being CCW and
CW wrapped we can easily see the correct path.

I'll have to add that the large #4 loops of 1.5 turns are
opposite wound and the proof would be flipping the toroids
over reveals no changes.

Not to be confused by another discussion we said the long
thin wire with many many turns were both wound in the same
direction.

This essay does not deal with factory windings.

The way that these connection are made on the #4 opposite
wound set is not the focus of this entry.

You pointed this out before in other diagrams so this is
a great confirmation.

Let me say this again.

To make a loop on the toroid at the left side of this picture
we could start making loops from left-to-right or someone
might decide to make their loops starting on the right hand
side-moving-left.

Anyone who can't follow that does not belong in this field
Just kidding, go for it.

Starting again.

Look at the left toroid.

NOW starting your turns from the left side-moving-right
you can see that the first loop passes under the toroidal
core.

Looking at the right toroid in the picture we see the opposite.

In this picture (right side) we see that by using the same
winding procedure of starting on the LEFT-Moving-Right
that the first loop does not pass under the toroidal core
rather it passes OVER.

I use left to right Like writing we move Left-to-Right.

This denoted an opposite wound #4 awg coil set.

If I flip either toroid over the winding direction does
not change and depending on how you view CCW and
CW directions each one of the two will have these
designations.

Regardless of which one you name it's direction
one is CW and the other is CCW.

Now upon review of past entries we may find
some contradictions but the main thing is that we
have a picture AND DIAGRAM that makes it impossible
to fail getting connections made perfectly.

@Clarence

I can hardly wait to hear from you on your new results.

[djarno]

[QUOTE=clarence;287820][QUOTE=djarno;287818]

Thank you I re-attach them later today.

2.5 turn most likely an overkill for my short wire but oh well.
You've cross-connected them right, the high amp cable/trap, as an X ?

EDIT : the high amps are obv in the electron trap and not at the inverter.

Sincerely.[/QUOTE}

Hello,

Leave it at 1/12 turns! will be good for light bulbs - but for THERMAL loads you would need the extra wraps. they advised 2 - 3 wraps for light electrical
loads but stated that 4-5 or more would be needed for thermal loads.
not my words - THEIR words! do what you want!

FORGET ABOUT THE X business!!!!!!
the TOP black wire #4 AWG of one toroid connects to the TOP black wire #4 AWG of the other toroid!!!!!!

the BOTTOM black wire #4 AWG of one toroid connects to the BOTTOM black #4 AWG
wire of the other toroid!!!!!

keep thinking about the X business and you will make another screw up!

respectfully,

Clarence

Took one toroid out. The cable is to light 💡, now it should remain stable at 160 amps.

It's about to turn light in 7 hours so then j retry.

Though I must say it's impossible 🙅 to determine the hot wire with the inverter.
They both give voltage... Ofcourse without load thus an closed 🔐 circuit.

What would you suggest to determine the live wire?

[clarence]

Working hard!

@Clarence

I can hardly wait to hear from you on your new results.[/COLOR][/I][/B][/SIZE][/QUOTE]

Hello BroMikey,

Have really been working hard to get through with the efforts to bring the TBC coil outputs frequency down from 32-33 KHZ to the regular 60 hz household output voltage.
all this time I have been in effect tutored by another MAGNIFICENT forum member. it had been mentioned to me months back but at that time I was just busy getting to the point where I could come up with an alternative voltage supply since using the ground rods was NOT an option for me because of my location.

now that I have the success of doing that by radiant/ambient supply using Tesla TPC and TBC coils using the high frequency ZVS drive, I had to have a method to bring the frequency down to usable HZ.
The method seemed quite complicated at first and will be to most members,
however I am not in the MOST category. rather than having impossibilities
I just look forward to things that need to be done. better option.

anyway I am getting closer to having success (hopefully),and spending a lot of time and effort into getting it done.

the method was first used by the allies towards the end of the first world war, to be able to overcome the high frequency the the Germans were using
to make their battlefield communications between themselves.
A particular service member came up with the idea and it worked. after the war ended he filed his patent and received the patent rights that date was in 1930. that date should start to make bells go off in your head. the words Pierce Arrow - Car - Barn - Westinghouse - electric motor - And TESLA ought to zero you in! He was a Ham Radio man and he would have been aware of that patent if anybody was. and he had the high frequency problem with respect to applying the voltage he could easily make and not have the motor burn up because of high frequency. not hard to guess how he did if you have the background knowledge that I do.

there is one more noteable person that I am aware of that had LOTS of high frequency problems also. the letters DS ought to clue you in on that person.
DS made a statement in one of his demos to the effet ...." sure I'll be glad to burn up your 100 watt light bulbs for you......" (high frequency problem
indirectly mentioned right there) !

DS also showed one of the latter units that he brought to a convention
that WAS a transformer involved type which its build was never explained nor a schematic ever shown! It WAS demonstrated in action though and it powered more things than light bulbs - showing that he had OVERCOME THE FREQUENCY ISSUE BY THEN!

got to run BRO!
talk again later!

respectfully,

Clarence

[clarence]

[QUOTE=djarno;287824][QUOTE=clarence;287820]

Took one toroid out. The cable is to light 💡, now it should remain stable at 160 amps.

It's about to turn light in 7 hours so then j retry.

Though I must say it's impossible 🙅 to determine the hot wire with the inverter.
They both give voltage... Ofcourse without load thus an closed 🔐 circuit.

What would you suggest to determine the live wire?

diarno,

the white is usually the neutral wire.

use your clamp meter and see which wire from the inverter shows amperage is another way. also on the inverter look at the plugin receptacle
and see which one of the slots is for the WIDE blade on the plug in - that would be the neutral - then follow that wire out to the toroid primary. it should be the white wire. brown and black are usually the hot leg.

best of luck!

Clarence