Barbosa and Leal Devices - Info and Replication Details

[clarence]

When I'm home I gonna hook it up to the water supply.
Older waterpipes are all copper. Also it should connect me to the WHOLE network (theoraticly).

It should give me the RMS. Stay tuned

Hello,

I definitely wpuld NOT connect the ground rod array to your residence waterpipes as doing that makes the system SEE THE WATER PIPES AS A LOAD
AND ENERGIZES THEM ALL AS IT WOULD ANY LOAD YOU PLACE ON THE SYSTEM!!!!!!
To maka a long story short , the next time you take a piss you will either SCREAM like hell or fall DEAD into the commode!!! DONT DO THAT!

Later,

hopefuly,

Clarence

[djarno]

Hello,

I cant make out any of the readings you showed in the photos - but that is not really Important at the present.

the only important statement was the one where you said that the ground return to the Captor secondary loop top wire (making its couple of turns around the secondary top wire [to pick up amperage] and then continuing on to the load treminal) was only showing about 120 volts. as you stated it should be showing the 220 volts your system is based on!
its the same old SAD story (which I have experienced too and stated so MANY times before in previous posts) of NOT HAVING ENOUGH GROUND RODS to harvest enough potential from the earth to match the systems rms voltage requirement of 220 volts.

I have sixty rods in the earth and that is just enough to put my system right at the tipping point with respect to matched rms voltage to carry loads.
again the only perceived way to overcome the problem is to add MORE RODS!.
I have previously stated I AM NOT GOING TO DO SO! I have had it up to my hair roots installing ground rods and there will NOT be anymore!

that brings me back to one of my recent statements that I was going to find and implement an ALTERNATE means of adding EXTRA voltage to the unit so that it could finally perform as it was expected to do!
Now, once again before everybody gets their left tit chunked clear over their shoulder, that does NOT MEAN that I am changing my unit one Iota at all!
It simply means what it says!!! so don't post me about that because I sure as hell WON'T answer!

Back to the subject....Djarno you need to add enough rods to increase the earth potential to bring the return voltage to match the 220 volt rms that your system requires.

That is MHO - so as always that decision is up to you.
until then you are stuck where you are (same as me at present heh heh).

later, LOL!

respectfully,

Clarence

When I'm home I gonna hook it up to the water supply.
Older waterpipes are all copper. Also it should connect me to the WHOLE network (theoraticly).

It should give me the RMS. Stay tuned

[djarno]

Hello,

I cant make out any of the readings you showed in the photos - but that is not really Important at the present.

the only important statement was the one where you said that the ground return to the Captor secondary loop top wire (making its couple of turns around the secondary top wire [to pick up amperage] and then continuing on to the load treminal) was only showing about 120 volts. as you stated it should be showing the 220 volts your system is based on!
its the same old SAD story (which I have experienced too and stated so MANY times before in previous posts) of NOT HAVING ENOUGH GROUND RODS to harvest enough potential from the earth to match the systems rms voltage requirement of 220 volts.

I have sixty rods in the earth and that is just enough to put my system right at the tipping point with respect to matched rms voltage to carry loads.
again the only perceived way to overcome the problem is to add MORE RODS!.
I have previously stated I AM NOT GOING TO DO SO! I have had it up to my hair roots installing ground rods and there will NOT be anymore!

that brings me back to one of my recent statements that I was going to find and implement an ALTERNATE means of adding EXTRA voltage to the unit so that it could finally perform as it was expected to do!
Now, once again before everybody gets their left tit chunked clear over their shoulder, that does NOT MEAN that I am changing my unit one Iota at all!
It simply means what it says!!! so don't post me about that because I sure as hell WON'T answer!

Back to the subject....Djarno you need to add enough rods to increase the earth potential to bring the return voltage to match the 220 volt rms that your system requires.

That is MHO - so as always that decision is up to you.
until then you are stuck where you are (same as me at present heh heh).

later, LOL!

respectfully,

Clarence

**** me in the ass. That is what I just found out by reducing the rods (unconnecting).

I just wanted to post it here that I was wrong but you sed it.
I try burying different things, and going 3M more deep and stuff like that.

Keeping log book what increases at which depth and stuff like that.

Damn I'm happy. Now time to find an way to pull SERIOUS load to make the mains wire here melt of load back.

I'm now keeping 10 volt drop with an fan, 200W light bulb drops to 160 volt aprox and fan, with the heater AND the fan and the light bulb -> inverter safety kicks in.

Clarence you found an way do increase voltage without adding more rods (thus amperage) ?

[clarence]

Clarence what am I missing ?

Got an inverter + battery. Loading more load then the inverter can give.

The neutral in is not directly connected to neutral out in the ground (so it must go through the ground).

The input voltage BEFORE the amplifier (well the big secondary) is often floating/pulsing.

The fan and the heater keep running same speed (slower then normal 220V) but it ain't accelerating.

Please help me

EDIT

Also the return, returns something alike 120 volt instead of 220 volt ?

Hello,

I cant make out any of the readings you showed in the photos - but that is not really Important at the present.

the only important statement was the one where you said that the ground return to the Captor secondary loop top wire (making its couple of turns around the secondary top wire [to pick up amperage] and then continuing on to the load treminal) was only showing about 120 volts. as you stated it should be showing the 220 volts your system is based on!
its the same old SAD story (which I have experienced too and stated so MANY times before in previous posts) of NOT HAVING ENOUGH GROUND RODS to harvest enough potential from the earth to match the systems rms voltage requirement of 220 volts.

I have sixty rods in the earth and that is just enough to put my system right at the tipping point with respect to matched rms voltage to carry loads.
again the only perceived way to overcome the problem is to add MORE RODS!.
I have previously stated I AM NOT GOING TO DO SO! I have had it up to my hair roots installing ground rods and there will NOT be anymore!

that brings me back to one of my recent statements that I was going to find and implement an ALTERNATE means of adding EXTRA voltage to the unit so that it could finally perform as it was expected to do!
Now, once again before everybody gets their left tit chunked clear over their shoulder, that does NOT MEAN that I am changing my unit one Iota at all!
It simply means what it says!!! so don't post me about that because I sure as hell WON'T answer!

Back to the subject....Djarno you need to add enough rods to increase the earth potential to bring the return voltage to match the 220 volt rms that your system requires.

That is MHO - so as always that decision is up to you.
until then you are stuck where you are (same as me at present heh heh).

later, LOL!

respectfully,

Clarence

[Magnethos]

I don't have it working, yet (if it works).

I'm in EU as well. Sine wave is basically CLEAN/PROPER power.
Meaning it can be used for computers, dvd players etc (stuff where interal clock is on HZ or something I suppose.)

It should be fine to test with raw load like heater/fan/lamps.

I'm from the Netherlands and you ?

Ok, so I will charge a battery and I will connect it to a square wave inverter and I will try to light a small 25 watt incandescent bulb.

I'm from Spain. Not a lot of people interested in these fields here, but there are a few ones.

[djarno]

I've a square wave inverter. That would be ok or I need a pure sine wave inverter?

I don't have it working, yet (if it works).

I'm in EU as well. Sine wave is basically CLEAN/PROPER power.
Meaning it can be used for computers, dvd players etc (stuff where interal clock is on HZ or something I suppose.)

It should be fine to test with raw load like heater/fan/lamps.

I'm from the Netherlands and you ?

[Magnethos]

I've a square wave inverter. That would be ok or I need a pure sine wave inverter?

[Magnethos]

Its because the power supply is grounded. Therefore it kicks out.
No way to bypass unless you use an generator on an inverter.

Sincerely.

I'm using the power socket of home. Here is 230VAC 50Hz. I've tested the ground with the multimeter:
Phase-Neutral 230VAC
Phase-Ground 230VAC
Ground-Neutral 0

Phase-Water pipe 230VAC

So you suggest to use an inverter instead the power socket? Is it usual that the power socket is grounded or it's something strange?

[djarno]

I'm getting some problems when I try to switch on the load in the output. The circuit breaker from home trips in that moment.
Anyone has experienced the same problem?

Its because the power supply is grounded. Therefore it kicks out.
No way to bypass unless you use an generator on an inverter.

Sincerely.

[Magnethos]

I'm using also a black wire of 16 mm, that contains inside maybe 20 wires.
Maybe do I need a thicker one?

[Magnethos]

I'm getting some problems when I try to switch on the load in the output. The circuit breaker from home trips in that moment.
Anyone has experienced the same problem?

[djarno]

The live connection has 220 volt.
I can touch the live wire with my bare hands without getting any shock.

How is that possible ? Due the proper, actual, ground connection or ?

EDIT;

Directly, without ground connection, with an 6KW heater the inverter simply stops and quits.
With the groundings, neutral or live through ground, it doesn't. It doesn't pull the devices (they running like 10% or so).

Hmm odd. Is that logical or ?

[djarno]

Clarence what am I missing ?

Got an inverter + battery. Loading more load then the inverter can give.

The neutral in is not directly connected to neutral out in the ground (so it must go through the ground).

The input voltage BEFORE the amplifier (well the big secondary) is often floating/pulsing.

The fan and the heater keep running same speed (slower then normal 220V) but it ain't accelerating.

Please help me

last two pictures;

[djarno]

I don't waste time hopping down the TEST bunny trail (also known as experimenting).

I just go straight to implement and use. major difference!

Clarence what am I missing ?

Got an inverter + battery. Loading more load then the inverter can give.

The neutral in is not directly connected to neutral out in the ground (so it must go through the ground).

The input voltage BEFORE the amplifier (well the big secondary) is often floating/pulsing.

The fan and the heater keep running same speed (slower then normal 220V) but it ain't accelerating.

Please help me

EDIT

Also the return, returns something alike 120 volt instead of 220 volt ?

[djarno]

I'm picking up the inverter tommorow. Took 4 days. Atleast the inverter is free to try.

Its 200W so it should be enough to test the principle.

I thought about something, Clarence, the copper rods is like the same principle as an arial insulated plate ? Moray had his device earth connected before aswell and later on switched to insulated arial plate.


Ah well can't wait. An forum member also emailed me these diagrams.
Can U correct what you think is wrong ? I try all possible solutions anyway

Inverter is/was ****ed I assume.

Always have overload. Directly on battery or directly on battery charger.
The battery is now fully charging, will try later....