Barbosa and Leal Devices - Info and Replication Details

[tonyben25]

Hello all, I must start by saying a very big thank you to Clarence for your kind heart to humanity in sharing success.
I had given up hope on free energy pursuit after several years of replication of different devices without anything to show for it.
i came back this week and finally it seems there is some thing hope for.
Pls can some one point me in the direction to start up this project. I have gone to the beginning of the thread and it seems there are some photos and materials shared by Level which i cant see anywhere in the thread. Please i want to start this replication. Thanks.

[clarence]

PAGE 40 - posts # 1182 & # 1190

Hello all, I must start by saying a very big thank you to Clarence for your kind heart to humanity in sharing success.
I had given up hope on free energy pursuit after several years of replication of different devices without anything to show for it.
i came back this week and finally it seems there is some thing hope for.
Pls can some one point me in the direction to start up this project. I have gone to the beginning of the thread and it seems there are some photos and materials shared by Level which i cant see anywhere in the thread. Please i want to start this replication. Thanks.

Hello tonyben25,

the above title tells you where to go and look.

If the location you are in does not show a magnetic anomaly in the red or pink zone of at least 140 ntesla value don't waste your time or money as you will be disappointed.

best regards,

Clarence

[tonyben25]

Thanks sir for the response, please how do i know the magnetic state of my location(Nigeria)?

[clarence]

Here IS HOW

Thanks sir for the response, please how do i know the magnetic state of my location(Nigeria)?

Hello tonyben25,

go to your search engine and type in exactly as I show here:

Earth Magnetic Anomaly Grid www. geomag .org

this will bring up several items in reference to your search - Click on the
one that says Earth Magnetic Grid -Geomagnitism .

then you should see a colored portion of the Earth . in their explanation of their article you will see a BLUE COLOR item that says EMAG2 google earth .
click on that and you will be where you want to be.

on the various countries of the earth you will see Africa and a hand should hover over what you are looking at. the hand will enable you to move all over and in and out. after you see nigeria click on that and WAIT a few seconds and the colors for that zone should show up.

Patience is the key element in all of this! after a while you will get the hang of it and find what you are after!

Regards,

Clarence

[tonyben25]

Lots of thanks Clarence. I found it. i dont know if to be happy or disappointed yet. My location(lagos) has a very small pink magnetic foot print which dose not cover all the area of my location. Will that work for me?

[clarence]

Lots of thanks Clarence. I found it. i dont know if to be happy or disappointed yet. My location(lagos) has a very small pink magnetic foot print which dose not cover all the area of my location. Will that work for me?

Hello Tony,

I really can't say - It would be a guess .

If you do anything you might start with a small inverter and inexpensive toroids
and just three rods for a start - one input and two return so as to limit your investment and not get hurt too badly if all fails.

your call Sir!

my location just was so lousy that I have totally disconnected all ground rods and have been working towards a
self sustaining battery system from an alternate voltage source using a Tesla system. been a LONG BATTLE!
The only thing I am going to keep is a B&L single toroid Captor for possible? amperage? all still questionable R&D.

best regards!

Clarence

[tonyben25]

Hello Tony,

I really can't say - It would be a guess .

If you do anything you might start with a small inverter and inexpensive toroids
and just three rods for a start - one input and two return so as to limit your investment and not get hurt too badly if all fails.

your call Sir!

my location just was so lousy that I have totally disconnected all ground rods and have been working towards a
self sustaining battery system from an alternate voltage source using a Tesla system. been a LONG BATTLE!
The only thing I am going to keep is a B&L single toroid Captor for possible? amperage? all still questionable R&D.

best regards!

Clarence

I already have inveter system in place. I will give it a try with any toriod i can find around. I have been seeing lots of video on youtube on the barbosa device but all have seen so far uses just one transformer while yours uses two. Are they same device or different?

[clarence]

I already have inveter system in place. I will give it a try with any toriod i can find around. I have been seeing lots of video on youtube on the barbosa device but all have seen so far uses just one transformer while yours uses two. Are they same device or different?

Hello Tony,


you can go either way. they show both in patent info.

with just one it is easier to screw up.

the single version method is back a couple of pages so look it up.

best regards,

Clarence

[clarence]

Hello BroMikey,

HI Bro,

I made the alum conversion to my ACDELCO 70AH battery.
the alum conversion works every bit as it is supposed to for certain!

However (however always comes before bad news!),the most my AC 2/10 amp
charger could charge it to after a 24 hr period at 2 amps charge rate and the amp rate finally went to zero and below was 13.12 dcv. the charger can easily charge other batteries to 15 - 16 dcv especially on the 2 amp setting over a 24 hour period.

as proof of its low internal condition I took the same charger and same 2 amp setting and charged one of my 12 dcv 600cc(engine starting) capacitor
bank modules (purposely drained below 12 dcv) and charged it to 14.4 +dcv
in a matter of minutes.
I then put the Alum conversion battery back on the charger at the same 2 amp setting with it showing the same stalled 13.12 dcv and zero amp showing on the needle (no activity). I now used heavy duty alligator clips
(red & black) and connected the freshly charged capacitor bank module into the battery post terminals as the charger was still charging. the charge value
rose to the 14.4+ and then quickly dropped to the 13.12 value and stayed there with no activity .

told me all I needed to know! the battery internal disposition is so degraded that when you place the least usage on it, it drops and drops and drops while dragging the ability of the high amp capacitor bank module down with it and preventing even it from receiving charge supplied by any type of charge
method that would be used.

now to secure a good high AH battery as a replacement and give it the alum treatment. for sure it will NOT be a SEALED LA ! that @#$%&*+ was an infernal nightmare to get unsealed!!!! never again!
won't be until after the middle of the month when finances are back up though. ole waiting game.

privately I had figured the battery was causing all of the voltage drop and charge problems because I had paralleled one of the capacitor bank modules
in the battery circuit back when and capacitor banks just don't give charge problems, they either blow or go!

as soon as everything is complete again I will be back with more
preliminaries .

thanks bro!
Best Regards,

Clarence

[BroMikey]

Hey Clarence SUP?

I'm the same way, I need a few more goodies all of the time and
with watermelon season the kiddies are eating me out of house and
home. I mean can these guys eat.

On the ALUM conversion it looks like as always that your analytical mind
and experimental abilities have made short work of accessing that battery.
Nothing wrong with that, cause I got piles of them suckers that I thought
I would converter just to see.

They were not broken internally so I figured maybeI dumbed them
out, filled them with ALUM, reverse charged them (After shorting them out)
then for 30 minutes and trickle charged over night on straight DC to form
the plates to ALUM.

Then I used the Bedini OSC, then I used the pulse hammering of a dump
and that worked sometimes better than anything but some failed in a
month. I figure OH WELL it's just pickle juice.

I have batteries that show full never to give any power no mater what
I do to them, they can never return to operational and for the life of me
I do not understand why. Well it might be something like this, a broken
plate and sulfated all at the same time?

Ya win some and ya lose some. I went to see the scrap batteries this
week and they were brand new ones never used this time plastic wrapped
to a pallet. I unboxed one and shook it and it rattled like it had rocks in
it. Brand spankin new can you believe it and these bad boys were 70ah.

I didn't have time to fiddle with these and some were good but had each
hole where fluid is to fill the battery completely leaded in like someone
poured solder over the holes. Never seen such a thing.

I just go around with a piece of banding strap that is usually laying
everywhere to short out terminals WOW there's a whopper and I
found plenty.

Good to see you doing the ALUM conversion. Let me know if it works
out good with other batteries in the future. I can't wait to see a full
demonstration down the road on your coils, this has been an amazing
adventure.

[clarence]

Hi Bro.

after reading your post I realized I had several of the large capacitor bank modules which can actually serve as a battery and to my way of thinking they
take charging with less resistance and charge effort from any charge system than a normal 12 volt battery would.
I have :
1. a 12 volt 300cc (engine start amp)
2. 3 12 volt 600cc (engine start amp)

all of this gives me 12- 15volt 2100cc (engine start amp) which is
VAPORIZING amperage if accidentally shorted out. So I plan to use the capacitor modules in series like batteries keeping them charged by the
mini TBC coils in combo with their FWBR,s to power my unit and see how
well it all holds together.
can't hurt! nothing ventured, nothing gained.

First I will have to build my insulated bus bar set up to protect against
accidental shorting while making their connections. besides filling my drawers immediately, I probably wouldn't see anything for a while
or ever! eardrums would suffer damage also.
the buss bar itself is rated at 1250 amps for each leg.

will take some time to set it up but will now have the time anyway.
by the way the capacitor bank modules come from E-BAY. will update their info by editing later.

Thanks for your listening BRO!

Best Regards,

Clarence

[BroMikey]

Hi Bro.


can't hurt! nothing ventured, nothing gained.

First I will have to build my insulated bus bar set up to protect against
accidental shorting while making their connections. besides filling my drawers immediately, I probably wouldn't see anything for a while
or ever! eardrums would suffer damage also.
the buss bar itself is rated at 1250 amps for each leg.

Thanks for your listening BRO!

Best Regards,

Clarence

Yes true, great care needs to be taken that no mistakes are made. I
see the latest Li-ion and Ultra cap banks being sold (I made my own)
that have built in protection in the many forms. One is a simple fuse
in case you exceed 10-20amps it pops and some have electronic
breakers.

I think I saw a 2.7v ultracap rated at 3000 farads for $42. 6 X42=



http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-Maxwell-3000F-2-7V-BCAP3000-P270-Super-Capacitor-2-7V3000F-Quantity-1PC-/112092073036?hash=item1a19354c4c:g:YmkAAOSwaB5Xrcm u

[clarence]

[QUOTE=BroMikey;292145]

Hello BRO,

I was watching the last of your post on Gerard Morin thread and I picked up on what he was using for simple conversion of HIGH FREQUENCY from VERY HIGH
to 60 Hertz and I was amazed by what I was hearing! He called it a SLASHER
which was actually a BRUSH AC MOTOR! I never have been able to find out what type of motor he was using to loop the voltage back to his transformer and power his house. I was wondering if you knew how to contact him and get all that info from him. I certainly don't. I know He, as I , generously open shares his work and results.

All of this would help me immensely to say the least.
I will wait for your yes or no on the contact info - no hurry as I know you are busy as a bee also! Thanks in advance Bro!

Very Best Regards,

Clarence

[BroMikey]

Hey Clarence

I have tried to contact Gerard in the past on his youtube but he has
to many asking. When he does talk, he talks AT the web and he talks
DOWN to the people using provocative sentence structure.

Evasive is what Gerard is, he does not follow thru with his old experiments
such as his last boast of powering up a utility transformer with a motor/
generator that pumps up the voltage. I have followed his work to the
letter.

Gerard is coming along fine for a beginner but he hates to admit defeat.
I did have a look at that motor but am not sure. He claimed originally to
have sourced a 6000volt generator that was to power his transformer
experiments and when it didn't work out he may have used it here.

This is all speculation and Gerard does not explain what happened, he
comes on every few months claiming O.U. with absolutely ZERO proof
insulting, saying the "F" word. Telling youtube they have no "Balls" and
so forth on live camera.

You and I are real people and we answer each other. Look at Peter L.
and John Bedini, they answer me and they will answer you but Gerard
has not come down off his high yet of being Mr. Personality.

I remember those days, show boat days. I lived in a town called
"SHOWBOAT" town in northern Michigan. I know that will connect.

Gerard will spend the next 10years claiming he almost looped it. Just
like Marc, he and so many others are not on the level.
It is up to us, why did I think you already knew that.?

You are a million miles ahead because you love the experiments.

I am about to loop one here and I won't fold up shop, SHOWBOAT,
GRANDSTAND or anything else toward you. I learned along time ago
what the poop is with that drill. Nobody cares what I am doing unless
I make a game out of it.

That's Gerard, an empty formula for succeeding. However to rake in
money to generate hope he is going about it the right way.

[clarence]

[QUOTE=BroMikey;292438]

Hello BRO,

Your answer and efforts are appreciated as always!

I can relate to your comments on Gerad as exact and truthful!
So now I know which way to go. I had thought about the motor Idea knowing that the brushes on the motor due to the 3600 rpm would only allow a 60 hertz
signal to come thru and back to the source.
I may yet use this method but I believe I will use two DC 3600 rpm motors with their shafts connected to each other. the one being driven by DC and the other ones leads placed in series with one of the TBC 120 volt coils output lead to give it the make-and-break 60 hertz signal I am looking for.
maybe enough of the 33.4 KHertz pumped into the TBC will be eliminated!

Will see and you and all know me by now that my results will get shared
whether good or bad.

BTW: the mini charger coils - I found out that Four of them doesn't do any better than just one by itself so I have deleted the use of three of them!

Thanks again BRO!

Very Best Regards,

Clarence