Barbosa and Leal Devices - Info and Replication Details

[BroMikey]

Hello BRO,

..............I believe I will use two DC 3600 rpm motors with their
shafts connected to each other. the one being driven by DC
and the other ones leads placed in series with one of the TBC

120 volt coils output lead to give it the make-and-break 60
hertz signal I am looking for.
maybe enough of the 33.4 KHertz pumped into the TBC
will be eliminated!

Sure that will give you complete and total isolation, wouldn't it. Most folks
would be glad just to get a motor to run for free. If you run a
refrigerator like you did before, that would be excellent. I guess if
the power is available already and you can run 2000 watts of bulbs,
that would be considered super.

Of course the pumping action of the HF side is the dipole circuit so
skimming off a few HZ (60hz) shouldn't bother the Tesla coils.

Yes it does seem that quite a few inventors will resort to the commutator
make and break system due to it's abrupt actions. It is said that this
commutator action can create a node all by itself. The node we are
looking for in any system is that place where real power is harvested
while the dipole pump either requires 100x less or is totally unaffected.

I am using a scooter motor right now that is re-wound to Matt's spec's
and my motor runs and runs but the battery does not drop. That is
another subject. Try it and if it works I have some ideas to share.
My scooter motor has a commutator and the commutator has been
connected differently to make the motor run and send pulses at the
same time. Much can be done with commutators.

[clarence]

[QUOTE=BroMikey;292449]

Hello BRO,

I found Two Buhler 3600 rpm brush motor on E-Bay for 16.95 ea. these are
the DC commutator type so I will lock the two shafts together with a sleeve of sorts and connect everything as I mentioned before (almost). since the non powered small motor will be turning backwards in its make-and-break use I will be curious to note if this will make it some type of DC generator adding a DC component to the in series leg of the TBC output. will have to check on that when the time comes.

the real purpose of all this is to first see if the output of the TBC will finally be a 60 hertz value. whatever it turns out to be will be connected to 4 watt night lite and hence complete the circuit in order to see what is happening.

The ultimate goal is to use the TBC output by passing it at 60 hertz through
the neutral leg which has 1 1/2 wraps around the LARGE #1 ought 109 amp Captor and have it induce some amperage into it that can be usable.
I still don't know whether that is possible or not because I have NEVER had the opportunity until MAYBE NOW?
Who knows? it has been a long road just to get here.

thanks for all your replies back and forth BRO - they really mean a lot.

Best Regards BRO,

Clarence

[clarence]

Working

Hello @ ALL,

just a note to say I am working on the 60 HZ frequency control method I previously mentioned. needed parts will be in about 1 - 2 weeks before I can finish. mostly just a post to keep the thread from going IDLE !

I have completed the DC commutator module ( except for connecting the TWO motors shaft to shaft - parts needed) and used the one mini TBC pickup
coil to to charge a small 7 AH battery for its power supply, however the rectified output from the mini TBC was way to much for the small battery by its self (17 volts headed towards 32 volts if I let it continue its charge ability!) .
In order to control its charge rate I had to actually add the ALUMN conversion battery with it ( + to + and - to - ) to give it more storage for the incoming DC charge. even doing this I had to locate the mini TBC coil at the extreme outside edge of the LARGE TBC 121 vac coil to get it far enough to the edge of the magnetic flux and slow the BEAST down!

Anyway , just to let it be known that work IS in progress! no butt sitting!

Best Regards,

Clarence

[jim glinski]

Clarence
A little clarity please on the polarizing wire marked as #10 is it connected to the #4 wire or just looped ? (difference in diagrams) and the #6 wire looks just looped on some diagrams but your pics seam to show it going to ground and then back into the system. I've looked on the site and haven't yet found any conversation on this area of construction. You left another
Site to come here is there more extensive infomation there ? Pics on these area aren't clear. Really if anyone here has info on this a little help please. Jim

[clarence]

Clarence
A little clarity please on the polarizing wire marked as #10 is it connected to the #4 wire or just looped ? (difference in diagrams) and the #6 wire looks just looped on some diagrams but your pics seam to show it going to ground and then back into the system. I've looked on the site and haven't yet found any conversation on this area of construction. You left another
Site to come here is there more extensive infomation there ? Pics on these area aren't clear. Really if anyone here has info on this a little help please. Jim

Hello @ ALL,

Ive said it before and now I will say it again, too many are just looking for a quick fix to the problem of finding the golden pot of free energy at the end of their daily rainbow.

there isn't any such fix on this thread. instead you will find definite things to do which will cost you TIME, EFFORT, and MONEY.
Firstly, each should check there location for it's earth crust magnetic anomaly value. this value has to be at a value of 120 to 140 n Tesla
(a color of pink to dark red). If it is NOT, DON'T go any farther. just simply move on to something else so you won't be disappointed!

A question has been asked about conversations and numbers. irrelevant
conversations are just hot air, nothing more.

The numbers asked about are just AMERICAN WIRE GAGE numbers, nothing more.

The loops asked about are just real actual loops as shown, nothing more.

the schematic shown with regard to ground rods needed is just a GUIDE,
nothing more.

have at it.

respectfully,

Clarence

[clarence]

All duds!

[QUOTE=BroMikey;

Hello BroMikey,

The commutator motor method did not work. the 3600 rpm motor actually turns
at 60 rpsec. if I even annihilated all but one of the commutator segments it would still allow 556 hertz (60 X 556 = 33.4 Khz) to pass through. waste of time.

Just for the hell of it I also tried EVERY form and type of the worlds dumb ass pi filters. HAD ALREADY TRIED THAT IN THE PAST but went through it all again anyway. same results as before, 33,400 htz still prevailed. as I said before, once a frequency is created it's there to stay.

Time to think on it again!

Very best Bro!

Regards,

Clarence

[BroMikey]

Hey Clarence
Been away from my desk for a short and I see you are having a bout
with those dirty frequencies, you try scrubbing them out you try rubbing
them out and still you got ring around the rosey. hummmm..

Seems like we could and should arrive at a simple fix to convert those
ripples over from one pond to another. I know (As You do) that a radio
goes from will say 105 mhz down to a 300khz range then down to the
15 khz for good ole audio but I never checked to see how pure the
out put actually is at the audio end. As per normal harmonics can always
be picked up to some degree.

I have a motor hooked to a motor and it puts out 60hz, didn't I ever
tell you? Well I do and as long as I don't spin up my ac motor faster then
say 1900 rpm's that's what I get. I have always been able to do things
like that.

Like the time I blew the transformer off the telephone pole starting
up a 3 phase 10hp bread doe mixer under load with single phase
current thru a static converter. I built it myself and never had a
lesson Well don't tell the transformer that.

Really what was happening was the transformer was been overloaded
daily due to a small transformer, it was a number 10 when it should have
been and was replaced with a 25.

Anyway the point is if someone asked me to do a job for them I never
give up and one time I had the notion to run a motor backwards to
get ac power at a frequency of 60hz to run my goodies on around the
home front. I mainly use it for things like my electric chainsaw
"Out-Back" when hacking down trees.

Most people don't know this little trick I am about to share with you so
hold on to your hat and pull up a chair.

About 20 years ago I called a guy who is a supplier in the big city in
the metro Detroit area that stocked electrical equipment. I told him
I was on the look out for a great deal on some old stock he or other
might have that wasn't in demand anymore.

After chewing the fat for about a 15 minutes he figured out that
whatever he could do I could do also and said this. Mike I have some
new old stock that is a slightly out dated alternator that generally
was used in conjunction with a high dollar relay switch box to start
tractors but told me I didn't need that other box. He knew I could
make that alternator work so I picked it up for $300.

It started the tractor and acted as an alternator when the engine
was running to power the cooling unit.

The thing is huge and is still in use on another rig I built. At the time
I needed power in the field and had an old wind up 4 banger ford welder
with the old magneto distributor. It was a 12kwh welder and I could
stick weld using a rod the size of a pencil. The alternator went on that
and the ford motor barely blinked when pulling the max needless to say.

One big problem. When I connected it all up, it didn't work. So I called
the man back and he told me this. Take a 12v battery and momentarily
touch the windings to it then disconnect and repeat several times.

He said by doing this i could make any motor into an alternator because
they are very close to the same thing. The new old stock had been
sitting on the shelf for years and had lost it's magnetism.

So i have been doing that ever since. A couple of years ago I did to a
1/2 hp motor like the washing machines have in them. It never mattered
what I used to turn the motor with, now acting as a generator. At first
I made sure to run right at 60hz but found that a little higher rpm didn't
hurt anything like my saws-all or circular. I run it at 125-130vac.

Connect the battery to the windings for 5 seconds making the motor
an electromagnet for that instant then release for 5 seconds and repeat
and a small amount of the iron will retain enough magnetism to start
filling your caps. They must be ac caps like in a garage door opener or
a window air conditioner has. If I remember I am using 3 caps or 4 caps
that are rated at 40uf each all in parallel to the 120vac output cord
where you run off of.

Now-a-days permanent magnets serve to excite.

If you can run a motor off you circuit you will have the ac power at the
60hz like you want.

[clarence]

Glad you are back

Hey Clarence
Been away from my desk for a short and I see you are having a bout
with those dirty frequencies, you try scrubbing them out you try rubbing
them out and still you got ring around the rosey. hummmm..

Hello BRO,

Glad to see you are back.

The problem I had using the DC motors connected shaft to shaft was that they only had FIVE commutator bars to work with. at any point in time their brushes were in contact continually with three of the five bars so the full frequency range was able to slip through without any problem.

what I need is a small universal AC/DC motor with MULTI contact bars in its commutator that would allow the brushes to each contact only ONE bar at a time with those same bars exactly 180 degrees apart with respect to each other. that way I can eliminate all the wire windings and even the core eddy current sections and wind up with just a simple shaft having only its
commutator and brush assembly. light weight and requiring almost no energy usage by the DC powering motor.
the DC powering motor with its 3600 revs per MINUTE is turning at 60 revs
PER SECOND which is equal to 60 HERTZ per second. so connecting the BRUSH LEADS inline with the hot lead of the Tesla Bifilar Coil should allow
a 60 Hertz signal to be achieved.

A universal type AC motor with a rugged commutator and having multi segments is what is needed.
I did find one that is perfect for the job and its on E-Bay. I have ordered it and it will arrive sometime around October 22 cnd. when received it will take awhile to modify it - connect it shaft to shaft with the DC motor and determine the results.

thanks again for your input BRO!
LOVIN IT!

the very BEST BRO,

Clarence

[BroMikey]

hey Clarence

good come back and I hope to follow along to see what you are
saying. All I know so far is that any motor can deliver 60 cycles since
that is what they are all designed to work on. Piece-O-cake.

One other thing I for got to add. In my above statement I failed to
mention one very important fact.

YOU CAN NOT RUN IN REVERSE!!!!!!

Motors have a direction they operate in and one time I had an AC
motor all hooked up to a 350cc Yamaha motorcycle engine all mounted
on a steel frame. It would not produce. I magnetized using the 12v
battery and tried again. NOTHING!!

Then I realized that you can not run a CW rotation on an alternator or
motor that is set up to work in the CCW position. You may change the
wiring pattern on some motors to operate the motor in either direction
but you will not get any power out of many AC motors going against
the grain.

It was easy in my case to put the Yamaha engine straight across from
the electrical motor and I did. She didn't work. Don't forget rotational
direction.

[clarence]

[FONT="Arial"]hey Clarence

good come back and I hope to follow along to see what you are
saying. All I know so far is that any motor can deliver 60 cycles since
that is what they are all designed to work on.

Hello BroMikey,

Instead of waiting for another motor with a different commutator I completely disassembled one of the Buhler D C motors leaving only the shaft and inner insulated sleeve the old commutator plates were riding on. I then took a hard nylon bushing the same size as the old commutator and fabricated two 180 degree solder inset plates connected across the insulated shaft area and made my own DIY commutator set up. connected the empty shell of the old motor shaft to shaft withe the other good DC motor and its Batt power. placed the brush leads inline with the hot lead of the TBC coil
and powered everything up.

It reduced the frequency down from 33.4 KHZ to a variable 7 to10 KHZ.
not as low as I expected it to go but it is strictly a matter of frequency time versus brush contact time at 60 rp/sec.
my next comment explains why ALL of this and the results are useless
anyway!

at the reduced 10 KHZ frequency the actual prior 121.3 Volts AC were ALSO REDUCED to 10 Volts AC useable voltage! so in effect this method is just a
MECHANICAL (kinetic) type of frequency filter. SUCKS just like all the Other
Pi type solid state filters.

ALL of this tells me that to get any valuable usage out of a TBC coil it will just have to be rectified and used in a DC form!

I am also mindful of Gerads latest setup that I watched A while back where he strictly went DC all the way through winding up with high voltage AND high frequency DC output. Since DC is a CONSTANT value at any point in its path he planed on using a SO CALLED "SLASHER" motor to chop up the high frequency DC int0 60 hertz and feed it through his step down transformer.

thinking about it , I believe he could just be on to something. I'll put it this way - he bears watching for certain!

with respect to my self, I am going to work towards a smaller open ring TBC
coil to get the same energy effect at a much smaller voltage of AC - 45 volts
to be exact. this I can feed through the 25 amp solid state FWBR type that I have and gain additional BATT charge for approx .5 amps input.
will be working in that direction and I also have a DAY AND NIGHT Solar concept for battery charging that I am working on also. I don't ever give up.

Once I get the battery power solution stabilized THEN I will get back to the single LARGE toroid Captor and be able to finally pursue that end with a
60 Htz supply from my 3000 watt inverter and prove or disprove the whole issue.

I expect you are as busy I am Bro!

the Very Best to you and yours!

respectfully,

Clarence

[clarence]

Trivia post

Clarence

Hello @ ALL,

This post is just trivia about my recent efforts with regard to maintaining battery charge.
The latest efforts to use Tesla coils by changing AC to DC were way to cumbersome and involved really high amperage with respect to diodes to
accomplish that end. 100amp+heatsink+oil bath! Will NOT happen.
The Tesla coils and ZVS driver with its 24 VDC power supply are no longer in the picture.

I mentioned last time concerning a PV panel option that I have since constructed and placed TOTALLY within my residence. It is operating behind
me as I type. It has NO need for an exterior environment which gives the system the ability to run 24/7. It is totally QUIET. no noise as with past components.
At present the 1000 watt PSW inverter powered by the system is powering the single large toriod (CAPTOR) you have seen in previous posts.
I still have some system design improvements I need to make which takes cash which takes time until after the 16th of Nov. Hence the reason for this post to keep the thread active.

After all the improvements have been completed then I will proceed to make use of the B&L Captor and see what happens. A 60 hertz unit has finally arrived.

Cheers to all, THANKS for dropping in!

Clarence

[luc2010]

Hello Clarence and All,

its time to make some progress i hope!!

anyways back to work!!

Best Regards
luc2010

[clarence]

Name of the game!

Hello Clarence and All,

its time to make some progress i hope!!

anyways back to work!!

Best Regards
luc2010

Hello LUC,

Your'e right on, WORK is always the name of the game. with out it, there is no progress.

towards the end of this month I hope to have some good progress to show.
Been after it for a long while now.

Thanks for comment,
Best Regards,

Clarence

[BroMikey]

Good news, are you saying that the PV panel is collecting enough
light inside your home to power electronics?

I must have forgotten you had a 60HZ unit of some kind on order?

[clarence]

Good news, are you saying that the PV panel is collecting enough
light inside your home to power electronics?

I must have forgotten you had a 60HZ unit of some kind on order?

Hello BroMikey,

NO! that is NOT what I said. there is NO solar panel that will work inside
a residence that I know of!

What I did say was that I was using a PV panel to power a voltage controller
and feed DCV into a battery (SORRY ONE AT PRESENT) and that battery was being used to power a 1000 watt inverter which was in turn powering the
SINGLE TORIOD CAPTOR (B&L ORIGIN) with about .37 amp which still
registers the 106.9 AC amps when it was first constructed quite awhile back.

What I did not say was how I was able to do that and do it inside my home whether it was day or night - dim light or TOTAL DARKNESS - no difference.
I am still not ready to say how this was accomplished and will not until I have made the design improvements (mentioned in the previous post I
made) after the 16th of this month (cash day).
Even then I want to make days of run time to validate what I will say at a later date.

The statement about the 60 Hertz system simply refers back to the INVERTER! YOU KNOW - 60 hertz inverter!!! Powering the toroid Captor
makes it operate at 60 hertz ALSO!!! that's what I really loved about the B&L
system way back when. a simple 60 hertz household electric supply!
uncomplicated and nice. no motors - no generators - just QUIET.

I was really laughing inside making this reply, It is very good to see you interested in the goings on.

As always BRO, glad for the comments and interest.

Best to You and All,

Regards,

Clarence