Barbosa and Leal Devices - Info and Replication Details

[PolandKapa]

Today I did the first test on the transformer from an old UPS.
I used only three rods, in addition to steel. But to my surprise it worked, I did not have the equipment or time to carry out the tests, the only thing I've done is to check how quickly rotates counter when directly connected an electric kettle, and through transformer, shown in the photo below.
Scheme modeled on the link below.

[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lUtRFSqj504[/VIDEO]

[wantomake]

As I see it

To All,
I don't want any to think I've found something cheaper that works. After removing the car coils from the captor loop, it still had same voltage returning from the ground plus some. I don't want to mislead any to think this is best. As I stated, if this proved to be better and experimental worthy, then I wound post those results.

I have today off and it's raining here, which gives more time to test better. The loop has little influence on the coils and vise versa. Maybe my captor loop is wound wrong or something. I could be jumping the gun and maybe the captor loop and coils running together influence the voltage between them. I need no credit or attention. This is a joy and great fun for me.

I still have a cfl and charger running from the setup without draining my battery bank. For each rod or 4ft piece of copper pipe added to the grid, I get an extra 0.1 of an amp through my charger.

Honesty is more important than any findings to me,
wantomake
Bromikey, No 20k input of voltage, only 120 ac from inverter. The input rods are placed in the ground not inside inside copper pipes.

[totoalas]

Another way in earthing rods is to bury the copper cable 1 foot below ground so it add up to the earth mat area

[Fjohnnyb]

Mikey, Not sure why you are thinking of changing what we know works. Clarence used copper coated ground rods. That works for the long term for electrical house grounding so why change it? It's cheaper and easier than a pipe with a steel rod. Also did you forget the water drill I mentioned. A 10 piece of PVC or copper can make a nice cheap water drill with your garden hose. Also you can usually get the first couple feet of a rod in the ground just by jabbing it in so if you don't use the water drill method (why not?) then you are usually only dealing with hammering a rod starting about 5 feet above ground. Concerns about water in the ground? Clarence mentioned it doesn't work as well after rain but I can assure you the water drill water will evaporate and/or seep deeper into the ground unless you are living on a swamp with a very high water table.

The water drill sounds like a much better idea actually. I was only suggesting the steel rod to make it possible to hammer the pipe Into the ground as I used it before and it worked quite well.

[ewizard]

Mikey, Not sure why you are thinking of changing what we know works. Clarence used copper coated ground rods. That works for the long term for electrical house grounding so why change it? It's cheaper and easier than a pipe with a steel rod. Also did you forget the water drill I mentioned. A 10 piece of PVC or copper can make a nice cheap water drill with your garden hose. Also you can usually get the first couple feet of a rod in the ground just by jabbing it in so if you don't use the water drill method (why not?) then you are usually only dealing with hammering a rod starting about 5 feet above ground. Concerns about water in the ground? Clarence mentioned it doesn't work as well after rain but I can assure you the water drill water will evaporate and/or seep deeper into the ground unless you are living on a swamp with a very high water table.

[BroMikey]

Using a mild steel rod that is close to the inner diameter of the copper pipe works quite well I have done it before. First put the steel rod in a vice and hammer the end till it flattens like the head of a nail. Then put the rod inside of the pipe and hammer both into the ground. Helps if the rod is slightly longer than the copper pipe.

Thank you Johnny

I don't know why I was having a brain freeze on those rods. We all need the other man to get us back on track. All I keep thinking is buy copper pipe at lowes for $8.50 a stick and that is costly enough. The rod of steel going inside the copper pipe is the ultimate fix.

You mean just look around for a new steel supplier to get the right size to drop into the pipe? That should push the price up there good for a single rod.

Say $8 bucks for the steel and $8.50 for the copper?

I really have not thought of a supplier yet. Maybe Lowes?

I'll have to look around, but you are right. I must have missed where it makes a difference leaving out the steel portion in the center yet everything changes something.

I have a small water well drilling machine that needs another gas
engine dropped on it and I was thinking drill the hole, put down a pipe and that is good enough. Not real sure if leaving out the steel would mess things up or not.

I was thinking that the steel rod would only be needed if I were going to drive them all in standing on a ladder using a sludge hammer.

I know I am not going to do it that way because that would put me 10 feet off the ground swinging a 10 pound hammer. Not this kid. I could do that but I refuse.

If you or anyone else knows if the steel is needed to make it work better, let me know. I heard wantomake say something like that but I didn't understand him very well. Is wantomake talking about putting the steel down the center of the copper pipe?

Is that what he meant? He said something like putting the pipe in the center?

Either way thanks for chiming in.

Mikey

[Fjohnnyb]

That might take a whole lot of copper. Copper pipe should last longer but can't be driven into the ground but must have a hole punched first.

Personally if I am going to put in a system down the road, I don't want the copper coating being eaten again in a few months on those steel rods.

Using a mild steel rod that is close to the inner diameter of the copper pipe works quite well I have done it before. First put the steel rod in a vice and hammer the end till it flattens like the head of a nail. Then put the rod inside of the pipe and hammer both into the ground. Helps if the rod is slightly longer than the copper pipe.

[BroMikey]

Thanks Clarence and Mikey,
Let's not be handing out Science Fair awards just yet.

I'm only trying to learn and find "cheaper" means to build this. I hope Shylo can use some of the info from my poor man's setup.

I just wrapped tightly the #4 awg around the two coils tie wraps. Not sure of direction coils are wound inside the can. So just did simple winding for test purposes. From those eariler Kurt Oscillator builds I saw high voltage from the can of the coils. Hitby tried the earth experiments and posted a YouTube video. That's why I thought to test this way. Very surprised to see voltage on the captor loop.

Will post pictures if today's test shows increase in return. Buying more 8' rods to drive in the middle of the input grid.

wantomake

I already purchased your white lab assistants jacket you gotta come through now. Thanks on the repeat for winding the transformers. I have seen just about any transformer core working on youtube. People everywhere are harvesting electrons to some degree.

Anyone can get a few extra electrons even me, but the information we now have available should get us enough to run a house.

That might take a whole lot of copper. Copper pipe should last longer but can't be driven into the ground but must have a hole punched first.

Personally if I am going to put in a system down the road, I don't want the copper coating being eaten again in a few months on those steel rods.

Like Minsky has just posted these captor windings are not just simply
transformers but induce, attract and regulate. Remember the little loops.

I am not sure which voltage you are injecting into the earth. If it is 20,000 then I think that would be interesting to try. The high voltages should travel easily through the ground since 120vac do just fine.

I quess you are using a modified sinewave inverter.

Mikey

[BroMikey]

Into my ignore list you go...

You ignore the info, you ignore Clarence and reason, please do put me in the ignore list, yes

[level]

I spent two weeks trying to replicate the original patent using two independent earth rods and got nowhere just as Level. It seems that Clarence has taken the idea into a new area nor foreseen by Barbosa Leal.

Hello a.king21. I suppose it is possible that Barbosa and Leal did something similar, or maybe there are some other things they hid in their patent applications that no one has figured out yet, but I read very carefully through a bunch of their patent applications that were translated into English and their stuff sure looks like a scam. They show various connection configurations for their different captor transformer arrangements in their patents, and it looks to me like they just put a bunch of different possible connection combinations in there, but it doesn't seem likely that all would work. It seems more likely that none of them work.

Edit: A guy from ou.com had a single transformer type Barbosa and Leal device made by Barbosa and Leal in his possession and did testing with it, and then took it apart when he couldn't get it to work at all. The previous owner of the device couldn't get it to work either. If the only valid arrangement of Barbosa and Leal devices is a two transformer arrangement, then Barbosa and Leal must definitely be scammers since they sold that single transformer device to a customer.

[level]

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...

Into my ignore list you go...

[BroMikey]

You are a funny guy BroMikey.

Maybe with a really good earth ground there might be more power available

If I get the chance to test with a better ground setup sometime I will test it again.

BroMikey, as I explained, the single transformer setup I tried is exactly out of Barbosa and Leal's patent docs. Your statement about only using two transformers is contrary to Barbosa and Leal's patent docs.

hummmm that is very interesting. I didn't know the patent had everything we needed. Clarence must be wrong then and we all better do it like the Patent?

While I was thinking it over I remembered that the Patents are known to only give partial information, such as only suggesting 1 transformer (That is not a transformer in the conventional sense)

Okay I thought it over and decided that I better do it like Clarence is showing if I want to take advantage of his gift. This should shorten the work up considerably.

I think I won't use the information from the Patent, well only to get the idea and try to find somebody who is smart enough to undo their lies.

CLARENCE MY GOD YOU HAVE DONE IT!!!!!

[a.king21]

I spent two weeks trying to replicate the original patent using two independent earth rods and got nowhere just as Level. It seems that Clarence has taken the idea into a new area not foreseen by Barbosa Leal.
I also would like more details of Wantomake's experiments, so I can replicate them.

[level]

Again you don't seem to understand Level. All house pipes must be connected to the power company grid to ensure the safety of the home owners. Connecting a single transformer to a grid ground does not constitute
a perfect Barbosa Leal patent connection diagram.

At least I thought a grid house pipe would cause troubles. I guess both ways might be possible using separate grounding from the grid and power company grounding, Maybe?

But in our replication we do not recommend hooking up to the grid.

However maybe a copper pipe is in a barn where no electrical grounding
is present? But if electricity is there in that building it is probably grounded to the grid.

Also two captor current transformers must be in play and connected the
correct way to cancel the Lenz effect. Anything short of this is nothing
more than powering a device through a resistor.

You are a funny guy BroMikey. I understand well enough what I am doing here. I was powering from a battery and inverter so there really shouldn't be any significant interaction with the mains. I know that is not the best earth ground, but I was just using it just for this test. The fact that I was measuring 35VAC between the secondary loop (which was connected to the inverter hot) and earth ground was interesting. I measured around 14VAC between the secondary loop and earth ground with the inverter hot not connected to the secondary loop. There doesn't seem to be any available power associated with those voltages however. Maybe with a really good earth ground there might be more power available, but I think more likely not. If I get the chance to test with a better ground setup sometime I will test it again.

BroMikey, as I explained, the single transformer setup I tried is exactly out of Barbosa and Leal's patent docs. Your statement about only using two transformers is contrary to Barbosa and Leal's patent docs.

[BroMikey]

@All:
Just tried an experiment with Barbosa and Leal's single transformer captor arrangement, exactly as shown in their patent docs.

My earth ground wire goes to a copper water pipe which runs under ground about 6 feet below the ground surface outside the house. It forms a pretty good earth ground.

but I could not draw any power off it. When I connected a 35 Watt light bulb across these two connection points the voltage went to zero.

Again you don't seem to understand Level. All house pipes must be connected to the power company grid to ensure the safety of the home owners. Connecting a single transformer to a grid ground does not constitute
a perfect Barbosa Leal patent connection diagram.

At least I thought a grid house pipe would cause troubles. I guess both ways might be possible using separate grounding from the grid and power company grounding, Maybe?

But in our replication we do not recommend hooking up to the grid.

However maybe a copper pipe is in a barn where no electrical grounding
is present? But if electricity is there in that building it is probably grounded to the grid.

Also two captor current transformers must be in play and connected the
correct way to cancel the Lenz effect. Anything short of this is nothing
more than powering a device through a resistor.