Barbosa and Leal Devices - Info and Replication Details

[citfta]

If the captor was connected as shown in the B&L patent you would be correct. The captor would be a capacitor. As Clarence has it connected with the end opposite the ground rods connected to the neutral line then it is acting as a transformer.

I do like your method of determining the phase of a transformer primary to secondary. Simple and easy to do. Thanks for that idea.

@All,
Having said that I realized people are going to assume that the Captor is a regular 'transformer'. Far from it all and such assumptions should be thrown out the window. As Clarence has pointed out repeatedly.

Thanks.

Carroll

[dragon]

Dragon: I find your amperage experiments fascinating. I have ordered some nichrome wire. Meanwhile can you say if it is possible to boil a cup of water - enough for a cup of tea - using 20 watts and if so how long will it take?

With the results I've seen so far I'm quite sure you can. Since there is nothing "magic" here it would take the same amount of energy to heat a given quantity but in a different time frame.

My water heater elements have been wired for 120 volt operation and I fire it up once a day for 15 minutes. The element represents a 4500 watt load on the batteries. So If I can reheat and maintain a given temp with 50 watts or less continuously the energy is the same over time but I can do it without maxing out the system. A 4 amp load continuous is nothing where a 375 amp draw is quite taxing on both battery and inverter.

[BroMikey]

Hello,

Still trying to kick Barbosa and Leal for their success when they achieved it BOTH ways,, my my.

Clarence

Of course, when people don't understand, they flip out in fear. Must be stealling that power then

[BroMikey]

@All

Just finished doing a test to see the rate of discharge of a 12v 75 Ah lead acid battery over a 12 hour period, with the battery, a 750W inverter, and an intelligent battery charger (3 stage - 4A, 12A, 25A), with no captor transformer setup used, all connected in a self looping arrangement.
The starting open circuit voltage on the battery was around 13.3.
The battery charger was set to automatic mode.

After starting up the self loop, the battery voltage quickly dropped to about 12.9V and continued falling from there over the next half hour.
After about a half an hour the battery voltage settled around 12.7V and stayed there for about one more hour.
Now about 1 1/2 hours into the self run test the battery voltage started to very slowly drop from there.
After the 12 hour self loop period was elapsed the battery voltage was reading 12.42V (while still under load). So it was a drop from about 13.3V (unloaded) to 12.42V (loaded) after 12 hours of self looping (with no captor loop).
The battery charger maintained a very steady charge current of around 1.6A to 1.7A on the battery for the whole 12 hour period, after the initial first settling down period of about 15 minutes.
The output power from the inverter, which was powering the battery charger, measured between 35W to 36W for the whole 12 hour time period. This was measured using a plug-in wattmeter. The inverter case was quite warm (around 40C or 104F degrees) for the whole 12 hour period.

It is interesting to me that the battery charger did not increase the charge current through the whole 12 hour period. I don't know why it did not change.
Edit: Did a bit of more investigating with the battery charger. The battery charger will have a charge current of around 1.6A to 1.7A if it sees a battery of about this size as around fully charged. It looks like the battery charger detection circuitry was not detecting the dropping voltage on the battery due to way things were connected in or whatever. The battery charger is not an expensive type, so it may have some glitches in its detection circuitry.

As the battery continued to discharge, the intelligent battery charger charge current should have been slowly ramping up, but it remained steady at 1.6A to 1.7 A for the whole 12 hours.
When I tried this same test with a smaller approximately 30 to 35 Ah battery earlier, the charger began to ramp up its charge current to the battery within about 10 to 15 minutes, and the charge current continued to ramp up higher and higher within the first hour. This smaller capacity battery had discharged to about 12.35 volts within one hour in self loop mode with the same charger and inverter.

Has anyone else tried this test? If so, what are your results?
The idea here is to give something quantitative to compare to before adding a captor loop arrangement into the self loop.

We can only imagine how many minutes your battery would last running a frig.
The 35 watt load you ran was like running a night light.

Put a man size load on it watch the nightmare begin for your battery. A 25amp run and a 1200 amp start up load. That little box won't start it up.

So you could run a couple of fans or enough lights to equal 200 watts.

Your battery is going to have a stroke.

[BroMikey]

@Level

One more thing. I have the inverters over here with the horse power to
start up my frig as it delivers the full lock rotor amps of 1200 amps, but if I only use one battery it won't start up because asking a small battery to give 1200 amps on start up every time is a bit much.

Having done all of these tests also helps me to realize that Clarence little battery is getting some huge help from somewhere.

Just thought you might like to know that.

Also if I run my deep cycles let's say a full 200 amp hour battery set weighing around 250 pounds of batteries I still need to put a starter type battery or marine battery in parallel with those, to get it to start up right.

And Clarence gets his to start with a single battery? This shows me from my experiences that extra energy is entering his system with only a single puny battery to run THAT many devices.

Check it out sometime, fire up even a 400 watts device for longer than 5 minutes. I used 5 minutes because I don't want you to ruin your plates.

[shylo]

Hi All, Can the whole thing be reduced to 10percent?
I have an variable transformer with a dial , run it at 12vac ,less rods and smaller, instead of 8' long, 9.6in long?
Will the variac run off a 300w inverter without blowing it?
I had 2 , now I only have 1 inverter , and I don't want to lose it.
Thanks artv

[BroMikey]

Hi All, Can the whole thing be reduced to 10percent?
I have an variable transformer with a dial , run it at 12vac ,less rods and smaller, instead of 8' long, 9.6in long?
Will the variac run off a 300w inverter without blowing it?
I had 2 , now I only have 1 inverter , and I don't want to lose it.
Thanks artv

Hi Shylo

I have thought about that. The first thing my mind went to was the depth of the grounding rods. If you are reducing by 10X of grounding rods you are not dealing with the same type of soil. This is called TOPSOIL.

If you want to try LED's or other input sources I recommend using at least a 4 foot rod system. Also use a double transformer or don't call it a captor.


The variac might change a modified sinwave inverter wave to look better.

The lower voltage potential will lessen your gains by 100X minimum.

Using the full 120vac won't hurt the inverter as long as you don't load it up to far. I think Clarence told me something like 6 watts to run both of his toroids on idle. That ain't much.

Just do it the same way you see it, just run a 100 watt light bulb for a load.That way less rods for less power.

That way you can see how long your system works off the battery PLUS collected electrons from the earth.

You know how to run joule counts.

Mikey

[Minsky]

If the captor was connected as shown in the B&L patent you would be correct. The captor would be a capacitor. As Clarence has it connected with the end opposite the ground rods connected to the neutral line then it is acting as a transformer.

I do like your method of determining the phase of a transformer primary to secondary. Simple and easy to do. Thanks for that idea.



Carroll

I'm looking at Clarence's replication. The load is not hooked to the secondary in any way shape or form and thats where it differs from a transformer. It's pretty obvious if you ask me.

There are other differences too but this is sufficient to show it's not a transformer.

Good luck with your experiments.

[wantomake]

smaller version

Hey Shylo,
That's exactly how I intend to keep my setup and add to it as it proves to deserve upgrading. I purchased different wattage bulbs to find the right size for my setup. I found my smaller unit does produce small amounts of amperage and I had to match it with smaller load. That's besides running the battery charger.

I have 12" galvanized nails as rods, different lengths of copper 1/2 " pipe , the best is of course the 8' copper coated rods.

For wire to the rods I use the ground from some old house wire. But will upgrade later. I fabricated connectors from left over pieces of copper.

As I started building then I understood what Clarence stated in his posts.

There's not much return from the grid and won't power the charger until you get enough grid to supply that power. Little things make a difference.

The car coils are doing better than I thought. After getting the voltage up to certain amount the charger started running and the amps increased as grid was inlarged. So far can only keep cfl bulbs burning and not lose any battery power.
But it does self power and maintain the battery bank voltage.

Tomorrow will get the input rods placed in the middle of the output rods. I had the input rods 10 - 15 feet away. With test found more amps when in the middle as Clarence posted.

Hope this helps.
Sorry much typing,
wantomake

[clarence]

Lovin seeing you on the case

Hey Shylo,
That's exactly how I intend to keep my setup and add to it as it proves to deserve upgrading. I purchased different wattage bulbs to find the right size for my setup. I found my smaller unit does produce small amounts of amperage and I had to match it with smaller load. That's besides running the battery charger.

I have 12" galvanized nails as rods, different lengths of copper 1/2 " pipe , the best is of course the 8' copper coated rods.

For wire to the rods I use the ground from some old house wire. But will upgrade later. I fabricated connectors from left over pieces of copper.

As I started building then I understood what Clarence stated in his posts.

There's not much return from the grid and won't power the charger until you get enough grid to supply that power. Little things make a difference.

The car coils are doing better than I thought. After getting the voltage up to certain amount the charger started running and the amps increased as grid was inlarged. So far can only keep cfl bulbs burning and not lose any battery power.
But it does self power and maintain the battery bank voltage.

Tomorrow will get the input rods placed in the middle of the output rods. I had the input rods 10 - 15 feet away. With test found more amps when in the middle as Clarence posted.

Hope this helps.
Sorry much typing,
wantomake

Hello wantomake,

get after it Sir - Get after it!

You are looking GOOD Sir!

you are definitely going to be hero to many members Sir.

Respect and BEST!

Clarence

[BroMikey]

So far can only keep cfl bulbs burning and not lose any battery power.
But it does self power and maintain the battery bank voltage.

Tomorrow will get the input rods placed in the middle of the output rods. I had the input rods 10 - 15 feet away. With test found more amps when in the middle as Clarence posted.

Hope this helps.
Sorry much typing,
wantomake

Awesome dude, I have high hopes for you man. You are inputting 20,000volts. You never told us what your captor transformers were made of did you?

Or are you running another setup from the web? I will go back to see what you posted again. So far all I remember was you did some work like HITBY did and are using the mini pole pig setup?

Is this right? then to a charger?

Whatever it is sounds pretty good if it charges a battery and burns power at the load side.

Mikey

[BroMikey]

Clarence,
I have my shop running on solar. So I setup a temporary test through the inverter with a small input and output ground grid. Have a smart charger connected to the captor wound around two car coils with the four cfl(4 foot) lights on over my work bench. Very surprised to see it produce enough to power the smart charger and keep the lights on. Will run it for some time and just learn. Why? Because that's the love for this endeavor!!!

Thanks and stay the course,
wantomake

Okay this is what I found, car coil captor wound? Running a CFL? It sounds like you wound some 4awg wire around the outside of the car coil metal canisters (No resistor in one post)

Either way I love new experimental data. yer makin history dude.

[BroMikey]

It sounds like amplification, says he is using a capacitor.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lUtRFSqj504



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O3wk5tBpAss






]

[citfta]

This is the drawing I was referring to. In it you can plainly see one end of the captor is connected to the ground rods and the other end is connected to the load. The captor loops around the 4 AWG wire make it a transformer. Now the question is; does the 4AWG wire transfer energy to the captor loop or is the captor loop adding to the current in the 4 AWG wire?

I'm looking at Clarence's replication. The load is not hooked to the secondary in any way shape or form and that is where it differs from a transformer. It's pretty obvious if you ask me.

There are other differences too but this is sufficient to show it's not a transformer.

Good luck with your experiments.

Take care,
Carroll

[Minsky]

This is the drawing I was referring to. In it you can plainly see one end of the captor is connected to the ground rods and the other end is connected to the load. The captor loops around the 4 AWG wire make it a transformer. Now the question is; does the 4AWG wire transfer energy to the captor loop or is the captor loop adding to the current in the 4 AWG wire?



Take care,
Carroll

The way I see it, the earth return is adding energy to the load. It's coiled around the #4 AWG to modulate and attract energy from the ground.

At the most this coiled earth return could be thought of as a current transformer but it would be wrong in this device because its working with a different form of current called the B-EMF. The B-EMF current behaves not at all like the current we know.

I believe the #4 AWG shorted loop is the component labeled 'captor loop'. But its just taxonomy. I'm not too concerned what its called.

Peace.