Barbosa and Leal Devices - Info and Replication Details

[BroMikey]

Hello MadMack, BroMikey,

I finished my rebuild and prepped it at the same time for a 120/240 version.
Photos attached

I used the pipe connection to avoid a MOUNTAIN of wire spaghetti both now and in the future components.

still works the same - still needs the added rods but as I discussed I am going a different route instead of adding more rods..

Will keep you posted on how its going.

Best,
Respects,

Clarence

WOW CLARENCE

That looks so nice. You are a serious inventor/replicator Sir. Very few

could ever rival your patient character to the point trolls come

running. Just let them keep it up and I'll start another thread

and the losers can stay here

Anyway for now we will see if these boys can straighten up.

Your new build is a step up, really good to have you here with

us Clarence. Never have I seem such professional work to

get free energy for a cost effective route.

You are the man we are counting on you Clarence.

You will get a few more rods down the road or maybe

your going to find more another way.

We can discuss it over the phone or whatever.

I can think of a few tweaks myself but what I

have to offer is not much. It's you Clarence

you got the whole show.

[BroMikey]

Hi Clarence
you can pm me also on your set up as I have all the parts lying idle and we can do parallel results

The Oscillator car ignition coil set up works using power companys earth rod
running an 7 watts led lamp from 12.64 v dc to 12. 50 in 12 hours
the output from the ignition coil shows HV leakage as I accidentally touch one pole........ and as I used a pen power probe it has detected around the battery ignition coils except for the input of oscillator circuit ... if it can be harnessed like in a Slayer circuit wrapping a coil and converting to dc to put back to the battery I think this will work led is 70 % illuminated
My set up used only battery and ignition coils/ osc illator circuit

Another way is to wrap the hv cable in between coils to a crt tv hv coil
iron core and the out put from the primary as step down.....

Hi Totoalas

My My you are giving away all of your gold nuggets Nice

going my main man. I am very impressed with wantomake also.

You guys are really moving this thread over.

The 7 watt bulb running from 12.6 down to 12.5 v in 12 hours

says it all. 70 percent brightness say 60 percent power usage to

be over on calc's is a hansom harvest indeed.

Very shocking.

So lets say 4.2 watts is going into the bulb to get 70 percent

brightness. Joules = watt/seconds this is 4.2 watts every second

this = 4.2 watts X 60 seconds = 252 joules of power in one minute.

Next we could say 4.2 watts 3600 seconds = 15,000 joules per hour.

12 hours X 15,000 joules per hour = 181,000 joules.

So your system is collecting 181,000 joules from somewhere.

Now we can look at the battery.

Lets say the battery is a 100 ah battery.

For this battery numbers look like this. C20 rate = 70 ah divided by 20

And you would probably never get 70ah out of a cheap battery

from WALMART. So 70ah/C20 = 3.5 amps.

3.5 amps for 20 hours will charge the battery and 3.5amps

of delivery to supply current over a 20 hour period.

but we are going for 12 hours.

So around 6 amps at 14 volts = 84 watts per second to charge

your 100ah battery back up again = 84watts X 3600 seconds X 12

= 3,600,000 joules to charge that battery back up.

or we could say that a heavy duty battery like that could give

back 2,000,000 joules in a 12 hour time frame with some heating.

So at least 2,000,000 joule available and your light used 181,000

joules. So it looks like the battery is to big.

What size is your battery?

[totoalas]

Hi Totoalas

My My you are giving away all of your gold nuggets Nice

going my main man. I am very impressed with wantomake also.

You guys are really moving this thread over.

The 7 watt bulb running from 12.6 down to 12.5 v in 12 hours

says it all. 70 percent brightness say 60 percent power usage to

be over on calc's is a hansom harvest indeed.

Very shocking.

So lets say 4.2 watts is going into the bulb to get 70 percent

brightness. Joules = watt/seconds this is 4.2 watts every second

this = 4.2 watts X 60 seconds = 252 joules of power in one minute.

Next we could say 4.2 watts 3600 seconds = 15,000 joules per hour.

12 hours X 15,000 joules per hour = 181,000 joules.

So your system is collecting 181,000 joules from somewhere.

Now we can look at the battery.

Lets say the battery is a 100 ah battery.

For this battery numbers look like this. C20 rate = 70 ah divided by 20

And you would probably never get 70ah out of a cheap battery

from WALMART. So 70ah/C20 = 3.5 amps.

3.5 amps for 20 hours will charge the battery and 3.5amps

of delivery to supply current over a 20 hour period.

but we are going for 12 hours.

So around 6 amps at 14 volts = 84 watts per second to charge

your 100ah battery back up again = 84watts X 3600 seconds X 12

= 3,600,000 joules to charge that battery back up.

or we could say that a heavy duty battery like that could give

back 2,000,000 joules in a 12 hour time frame with some heating.

So at least 2,000,000 joule available and your light used 181,000

joules. So it looks like the battery is to big.

What size is your battery?

Thanks for the math calculation lol
Im using a 30 ah car battery charged by 2 10 w solar panel which was disconnected during the test .....

[BroMikey]

Thanks for the math calculation lol
Im using a 30 ah car battery charged by 2 10 w solar panel which was disconnected during the test .....

Okay now that changes everything.

That car battery might give you 20ah and only you

would know if the battery normally goes down faster

with or without the setup.

Have you tried it with a 7 watt draw from the battery?

Do you think the power is coming from the battery?

Just funnin the trolls, don't answer that.

[totoalas]

Okay now that changes everything.

That car battery might give you 20ah and only you

would know if the battery normally goes down faster

with or without the setup.

Have you tried it with a 7 watt draw from the battery?

Do you think the power is coming from the battery?

Just funnin the trolls, don't answer that.

With my 20 w solar set up my 10 3 watts 220 v ac lamps consumed 200 ma dc from inverter / with the addition of 12 v dc 7 watt lamp input current rose from 200 to 400 mA
without the earth ground the oscillator will not start,,,, YES POWER IS COMING FROM THE BATTERY BUT AT A LOW voltage dissipation
woth the 7 watt led bulb alone as direct load from battery without oscillator the battery voltage dropped very fast

[BroMikey]

the 7 watt led bulb alone as direct load from battery without oscillator the battery voltage dropped very fast

Yes exactly what I was thinking.


@ ALL
you see people, it is hard to share all of these details

especially with bad attitudes butting in with continued

insults.

Okay I'm back

So I WAS right the battery would normally drop down

really really fast going straight off the battery.

Yeah okay.

Yes the 30ah battery like any battery is good up to 70%

of that figure if no more than 1 amp is coming out of the

12vdc battery. As current increases, so does resistance

losses in the form of heating so the battery will go down

faster.

Okay yes the 20ah battery let me think.

20ah = 20/C20 =1 amp going in and one amp going out.

1 amp X 14vdc = 14 watt to charge the battery.

14watt X 3600 seconds = 50,000 joules per hour

50,000 joules per hour X 20 hours = 1,000,000 joules

1,000,000 joules to charge the battery AND

But chargers cost more than what is available to burn

so what is available looks more like this

12-13v averaged = 12.5v X 1amp = 12.5 watt/seconds

or 12.5 watt X 3600 seconds X 20 hrs. = 900,000 joules

So now going with 900,000 joules we know a 12 volt

battery is full at 13 volts and dead at 12 volts for a car

battery. Other types of batteries are good all the way

down to about 11 volts before they choke. Not a car battery

it must stay between 12 and 13 volts during operation

or you will lose that battery soon.

Okay so the CAR battery has 900,000 joules between 12-13volts

or we could say that 1 volt holds 900,000 joules in it.

If we divide up THAT 1 volt into small divisions we can now

begin to read the battery voltage more accurately.

Look at it like this.

12.1 12.2 12.3 and so on till we reach 12.9 and 13.00

Okay? Do you all follow me? So there are 10 increments

using these divisions inside 1 volt. Right?

We can use the 900,000 joules over a 10 points scale.

How many joules per decimal point does change slightly

at different impedance changes of the battery but for

now we will use this basic linear scale of dividing up

900,000 joules over 10 divisions of the scale inside 1 volt.

12v-13v is 1 volt change.

So using this thought we divide 10 into 900,000

900,000 / 10 = 90000

90000 joules per decimal point on the scale we have chosen.

so from 12.00 to 12.1 volts 90000 joules are contained

therein. And from 12.1 to 12.2 another 90000 joules.

Now we may go back and look at Totoalas battery levels.

he said the battery went from (Approx) 12.65v down to 12.5v

in a 12 hour period. This is 135,000 joules for general purposes.

So this is 1 and 1/2 decimal point on the scale.

Remember each decimal point on the scale = 90000 joules

So the battery lost 135,00 joules over night.


Now he has a 7 watt bulb running and many other bulbs

to calculate joules.

The 7 watt bulb it using up some joules over his 12 hour run.

7 watt X 3600 second/hr X 12hr = 300,000 joules all by itself.

Now the rest of you go figure it out

[skribat]

People can do whatever they want. If you want to plug Clarence's setup into the mains to give you a $2000 extension cord that may possibly fool your power meter to some extent, that is your business. If on the other hand someone is really interested in trying to understand if a Barbosa and Leal device can really provide free energy, then in my opinion it only makes sense to use a battery and inverter. If Barbosa and Leal's devices can really provide free energy, then since no one has been able to replicate and demonstrate this yet that I know of, it would appear that no one has figured out the secret to the arrangement. The other explanation is that Barbosa and Leal's devices really just do not work. Time may tell...
----- ----- -------
People keep on saying this. .. .. and forgetting that the B&L devices were taken away, tested by the state Electricity company, found NOT to be using their electricity and they gave it a safety certificate for general use. .. .. all this information is readily available you just have to go off and read it.

[clarence]

People can do whatever they want. If you want to plug Clarence's setup into the mains to give you a $2000 extension cord that may possibly fool your power meter to some extent, that is your business. If on the other hand someone is really interested in trying to understand if a Barbosa and Leal device can really provide free energy, then in my opinion it only makes sense to use a battery and inverter. If Barbosa and Leal's devices can really provide free energy, then since no one has been able to replicate and demonstrate this yet that I know of, it would appear that no one has figured out the secret to the arrangement. The other explanation is that Barbosa and Leal's devices really just do not work. Time may tell...
----- ----- -------
People keep on saying this. .. .. and forgetting that the B&L devices were taken away, tested by the state Electricity company, found NOT to be using their electricity and they gave it a safety certificate for general use. .. .. all this information is readily available you just have to go off and read it.

Hello skribat,

Nice going sir!

The ONLY thing that makes this type device useful IS exactly what its type of technology claimed ALL ALONG - energy from the EARTH GROUND!they finally realized that CEMAR even though they gave it approval for general use
would not continue service OR approve a service installation to anyone who was either using the device or intended to use the device since there would be no profit return to them for cost of such service.

This, IMO, is why they ultimately only used and demonstrated their unit as a
UPS configured device. simply a choice of self preservation you could say.

I also believe that they did not fully realize that LOCATION _ LOCATION _ LOCATION would constitute such a major problem for intended users
with respect to the extent of EARTH VOLTAGE needed versus EARTH ROD ARRAY involved. myself included.

All in all it is just my nature to push through to a good conclusion with whatever combination I have to use to do so. I simply HATE HATE to leave something half done.

Respect your posting SIR,

best and my respect,

Clarence

[level]

@ ALL
you see people, it is hard to share all of these details
especially with bad attitudes butting in with continued
insults.

BroMikey, you have been asked previously to stop the insults and spamming of this thread. It is you who are making insults here. If people here point out that in their view some approach is incorrect or has problems with it, it is not an insult. It is just pointing things out. Stop with the insults and nonsense spam posts.

[level]

People keep on saying this. .. .. and forgetting that the B&L devices were taken away, tested by the state Electricity company, found NOT to be using their electricity and they gave it a safety certificate for general use. .. .. all this information is readily available you just have to go off and read it.

Hello skribat. I have not seen any such info. Do you by any chance have some links?

[level]

NOPE! no changes! still works exactly like it did before teardown!
the different route is MY personal information and will NEVER be revealed on this forum or any other. that would be a MEGA DUMB ASS thing for me to do considering all past forum involvement I have had. been there-done that-
never again.

Hello Clarence. You have had all the opportunity in the world in this thread to provide details of how your setup performs. However you have made it clear from very early on in this thread that you have no intentions of providing info on even some simple tests that would indicate how your setup performs under load when operating from the battery. That is the only thing you have been called out on here in this thread. What happened in another forum has nothing to do with this forum. We still have no details at all of how your setup performs even in simple tests. You stated at the beginning of this thread that you wanted to share details of your setup, but in reality you have provided nothing of practical use for anyone to gauge how your setup is actually performing. When people point this out, they are not attacking you. They are just pointing out the facts of the matter. If you don't want to give any details about how your setup performs under load when using a battery, that is your business, but it is not realistic to expect people to just blindly believe that you have a working free energy setup when you won't provide even the most basic details about actual performance results.

A very simple and easy test which anyone can do is to not connect in the battery charger, and just have the battery powering the inverter which then drives the captor loop transformer arrangment, which is connected to a load such as a lightbulb. Measure the battery voltage and battery current draw with everything running and the load connected. You can then measure the voltage and current being supplied to the lightbulb. This will give you a pretty good idea if your setup is providing more power to the load than is being drawn from the battery. Very easy and simple and only takes a short time to conduct such a test. Battery terminal voltage by itself is not a good indicator of battery charge, but this suggested very simple test compares battery power draw to power delivered to the load, and will give a quick indication if anything out of the ordinary is going on. This is a simple test that anyone should be able to do if they are interested in understanding how their setup is performing.

Edit: Of course do not do any such tests unless you are fully aware of and understand the shock risks, and know how to conduct such tests safely! Do such testing at your own risk.
The output voltage from an inverter (120V/220V) can shock you or kill you just as easily as the output from a mains socket.

Happy and safe experimenting!

[clarence]

Hello Clarence. You have had all the opportunity in the world in this thread to provide details of how your setup performs. However you have made it clear from very early on in this thread that you have no intentions of providing info on even some simple tests that would indicate how your setup performs under load when operating from the battery. That is the only thing you have been called out on here in this thread. What happened in another forum has nothing to do with this forum. We still have no details at all of how your setup performs even in simple tests. You stated at the beginning of this thread that you wanted to share details of your setup, but in reality you have provided nothing of practical use for anyone to gauge how your setup is actually performing. When people point this out, they are not attacking you. They are just pointing out the facts of the matter. If you don't want to give any details about how your setup performs under load when using a battery, that is your business, but it is not realistic to expect people to just blindly believe that you have a working free energy setup when you won't provide even the most basic details about actual performance results.

A very simple and easy test which anyone can do is to not connect in the battery charger, and just have the battery powering the inverter which then drives the captor loop transformer arrangment, which is connected to a load such as a lightbulb. Measure the battery voltage and battery current draw with everything running and the load connected. You can then measure the voltage and current being supplied to the lightbulb. This will give you a pretty good idea if your setup is providing more power to the load than is being drawn from the battery. Very easy and simple and only takes a short time to conduct such a test. Battery terminal voltage by itself is not a good indicator of battery charge, but this suggested very simple test compares battery power draw to power delivered to the load, and will give a quick indication if anything out of the ordinary is going on. This is a simple test that anyone should be able to do if they are interested in understanding how their setup is performing.

Edit: Of course do not do any such tests unless you are fully aware of and understand the shock risks, and know how to conduct such tests safely! Do such testing at your own risk.

Happy experimenting!

you are still ignored!

[level]

you are still ignored!

and still no performance details.

[wantomake]

Yes success is sweet

Hi Clarence
you can pm me also on your set up as I have all the parts lying idle and we can do parallel results

The Oscillator car ignition coil set up works using power companys earth rod
running an 7 watts led lamp from 12.64 v dc to 12. 50 in 12 hours
the output from the ignition coil shows HV leakage as I accidentally touch one pole........ and as I used a pen power probe it has detected around the battery ignition coils except for the input of oscillator circuit ... if it can be harnessed like in a Slayer circuit wrapping a coil and converting to dc to put back to the battery I think this will work led is 70 % illuminated
My set up used only battery and ignition coils/ osc illator circuit

Another way is to wrap the hv cable in between coils to a crt tv hv coil
iron core and the out put from the primary as step down.....

Totoalas,
Good, I thought mine was just an accident.

Others have ask me to post pictures or a schematic, but I disassembled the setup to make room for other projects. I didn't use the oscillating circuit with Darlington pair. I got shocked even using rubber coated test leads. I did a little dancing afterwards not funny at all.

I couldn't get more than a 13 watt cfl to lite up therefore I quit on it and moved on. I too have solar panels with bank of marine batteries. The setup totally ran on battery power through the earth rods. Still a very interesting and promising find.

Thanks Clarence for the great setup you posted. If I can ever afford those toroids then we will light up this neighborhood!!! This is a very high geomagnetic area and I only used two input and three return rods for this setup. Just imagine.

wantomake

[level]

I got shocked even using rubber coated test leads. I did a little dancing afterwards not funny at all.

Well maybe a little bit funny. Yeah, high voltage at even low currents can give you a nasty shock, especially at frequencies below 10 kHz. Not very fun when you get shocked.