Barbosa and Leal Devices - Info and Replication Details

[BroMikey]

I tried to rebiuld a Don Smith Device

So are you "Markus"

[wantomake]

I need an advisor like yours

Hey Clarence,
I really need an advisor close by like yours to help me finish this B&L setup.

My problems are the lack of more grid rods and the inverter is not a pure sine wave inverter.

But still it does power small loads and even powers the battery charger so the solar battery bank keeps the shop lights running for several hours but drops voltage a 10th of a volt per hour. As I add rods the rate of decreased voltage slows down. The inverter causes the toroids to make buzzing sound, but if connected to mains 120 vac there is no buzzing. The mains provides more power and will run a small 1000 watt heater but only needs 840 watts through the setup.

My goal is to heat and light the shop with the inverter power only as I add enough rods. So more rods and a pure sine wave inverter. Then enlarge to power the lights and such in the house.

Anybody trying to build this setup be encouraged. But you must be sure your area is a high geomagnetic area first and most important. Next follow exact setup as outlined at beginning of this thread. Rod types, wire sizes and type, toroids, inverter, charger, battery types and number vary according to what you are powering. I have a solar system in my shop that experiment with after sundown.

Time and finance is all that slows this free energy experience,
wantomake

[clarence]

Hey Clarence,
I really need an advisor close by like yours to help me finish this B&L setup.

My problems are the lack of more grid rods and the inverter is not a pure sine wave inverter.

But still it does power small loads and even powers the battery charger so the solar battery bank keeps the shop lights running for several hours but drops voltage a 10th of a volt per hour. As I add rods the rate of decreased voltage slows down. The inverter causes the toroids to make buzzing sound, but if connected to mains 120 vac there is no buzzing. The mains provides more power and will run a small 1000 watt heater but only needs 840 watts through the setup.

My goal is to heat and light the shop with the inverter power only as I add enough rods. So more rods and a pure sine wave inverter. Then enlarge to power the lights and such in the house.

Anybody trying to build this setup be encouraged. But you must be sure your area is a high geomagnetic area first and most important. Next follow exact setup as outlined at beginning of this thread. Rod types, wire sizes and type, toroids, inverter, charger, battery types and number vary according to what you are powering. I have a solar system in my shop that experiment with after sundown.

Time and finance is all that slows this free energy experience,
wantomake

Hello wantomake,

Yeah, my advisor can really kick ass when some one doesn't pay attention.

Glad to hear you are getting along well. sometimes my toroids will give a little buzzing off and on, but I believe thats just when the core goes in and out of saturation. sometimes it does and then it doesn't. when it did it in the way past, I would always take my clamp meter and clamp it on the secondary winding and it would always show an amp increase from the usual 1.5 amp to somewhere around 2.6 amp or so, so I learned not to worry about it.

my new components are trickling in at present. that's the only thing that has me idle at the present.

I have learned to be methodical and very diligent when it comes to building my latest TBCs and TPCs. one TBC now gives me 121 +- vac and the other TBC gives me 122 +- vac with a 246 vac combination. all close enough for present.

also at present the ZVS driver frequency with a no load condition always stabilizes at 32.8KHZ so I am setting the frequency to the TPC input by the use of a ac parallel 1.8uf capacitor and the coils own inductance of .013 mh
which give it a stable RESONANT FREQUENCY of 32.8 KHZ also. since a resonant frequency always tends to reduce the amperage of the power source to load this should help the inductors in the ZVS MODULE run really cool (temp wise).
I try not to miss any thing as I go forward.at a later time I intend to increase the performance of the whole system by a very nice word called
DIPOLE!!!! that's when the JOY begins.

It's really been nice chatting with you again. give me a whistle now and then to keep me up on how you are doing.

Thanks again,

Clarence

[BroMikey]

.....my advisor can really kick ass .................

I would always take my clamp meter and clamp it on the secondary winding and it would always show an amp increase from the usual 1.5 amp to somewhere around 2.6 amp or so, so I learned not to worry about it.



I have learned to be methodical and very diligent when it comes to building my latest TBCs and TPCs. one TBC now gives me 121 +- vac and the other TBC gives me 122 +- vac with a 246 vac combination. all close enough for present.

.....................with a no load condition always stabilizes at 32.8KHZ so I am setting the frequency to the TPC input by the use of a ac parallel 1.8uf capacitor and the coils own inductance of .013 mh
which give it a stable RESONANT FREQUENCY of 32.8 KHZ also. since a resonant frequency always tends to reduce the amperage of the power source to load this should help the inductors in the ZVS MODULE run really cool (temp wise).

I try not to miss any thing as I go forward.at a later time I intend to increase the performance of the whole system by a very nice word called
DIPOLE!!!!


that's when the JOY begins.

Thanks Clarence, I always learn something when you talk.
It also shows those of us in the know that your frequency calculations
are more than just wishful speculation.

Hey Clarence,
I really need an advisor..................

it does power small loads and even powers the battery charger so the solar battery bank keeps the shop lights running for several hours but drops voltage a 10th of a volt per hour.


As I add rods the rate of decreased voltage slows down.

The mains provides more power and will run a small 1000 watt heater but only needs 840 watts through the setup.

Dear wantomake

How are you arriving at 840 watts input and 1000watts output?
Do you have 2 watt meters running? Or do you move the watt meter?

The battery staying charged also represents more energy harvesting
alone with the figures you just mentioned.

In other words, SHOP LIGHT POWER + BATTERY JOULE COUNT + HEATER
ENERGY all done with 840 watts of grid current.

Is this correct?

[wantomake]

Bad explanation

Thanks Clarence, I always learn something when you talk.
It also shows those of us in the know that your frequency calculations
are more than just wishful speculation.





Dear wantomake

How are you arriving at 840 watts input and 1000watts output?
Do you have 2 watt meters running? Or do you move the watt meter?

The battery staying charged also represents more energy harvesting
alone with the figures you just mentioned.

In other words, SHOP LIGHT POWER + BATTERY JOULE COUNT + HEATER
ENERGY all done with 840 watts of grid current.

Is this correct?

Hey Bromikey,
No I didn't mention anything about input or output. The heater if connected straight into mains outlet pulls 1000 watts vac to run. But through the B&L setup only pulls 840 watts. I don't post input and output here because of those that were so disrespectful toward Clarence. If anyone replicates this setup then they will know and learn for themselves. For my own proof of concept I measured input and output.

The heater only is connected to a watt meter and shows 840 watts. First I connect to the mains with the watt meter and whatever load to see the wattage. Then to the B&L setup with watt meter and see the difference. That is what I posted. The difference. There's no overunity yet.

And yes as I add more grounding rods, there is more harvesting. According to your area I think the distance between rods is important also. The wire size can also help or hurt. Moisture may add or not. This is why we need more testing and learning.

To anyone, please use your own judgement to build this or not. Don't use my experiences as proof of concept.

Sorry old former South Carolinian but my explanations are sometimes not clear,
wantomake

[BroMikey]

Hey Bromikey,

There's no overunity yet.

And yes as I add more grounding rods, there is more harvesting.

You are not sorry to me.

But now let me ask you this question.

If there is a savings or 160 watts and as you add more rods you
get more energy and there is no over unity, then where is the extra
harvested energy going to on that rig?

One other question, did you ever show a picture of your new
toroids/captor? Or are you still using car coils?

I don't know how much time you have to show all of your process
but it sounds interesting. Happy experimenting.

[wantomake]

System

Bromikey,
No I'm using (2) toroids same as Clarence setup with same gauge wire for the captor and almost exact picture as what Clarence posted earlier pages. Will try to post pictures asap.

My charger and inverter of course is different. I can only power small loads now but it is a start.

Sorry can't answer the question, don't understand it.
wantomake

[seychelles]

Hi Clarence just an idea, to increase the the bifilar transtormer
it will be good if you mix epoxy with some fer rite compound and
make a mold to place the two windings in then pour in the mix..I did
that experiment with the induction cook top..That was best energy transfer i have ever experienced..Another idea is to make the bifilar with litz wire..
Easy to make your own ..Just get 10 pieces of fine magnet wire and stretch it
out and use an electric drill to spin these wires onto themselves..there you have your litz wire.

[clarence]

Hi Clarence just an idea, to increase the the bifilar transtormer
it will be good if you mix epoxy with some fer rite compound and
make a mold to place the two windings in then pour in the mix..I did
that experiment with the induction cook top..That was best energy transfer i have ever experienced..Another idea is to make the bifilar with litz wire..
Easy to make your own ..Just get 10 pieces of fine magnet wire and stretch it
out and use an electric drill to spin these wires onto themselves..there you have your litz wire.

Hello seychelles,

glad to meet you.

I have not experienced any problem with energy transfer by the TESLA bifilar
coil at all. the two present TBC coils transfer approx 122+- vac and 123+- vac respectively and can be configured to give 240-246+- vac quite easily.

the only negative aspect of the coil system is the high frequency KHZ that is used by ANY oscillator type to overcome the simple fact that a plain coil whether an induction cooker type (which I have found to be totally useless)
or be it a Tesla Pancake Coil or a Tesla Bifilar Coil is merely a DEAD SHORT
as SEEN by any power input souce - EXCEPT that it be a high frequency source. try hooking your induction cooker coil circuit to anything except a light bulb and you will get a surprise.
an additional negative aspect is the LIMITED amperage component that can be supplied by ANY type oscillator to and through whatever type coil you may choose. if it isn't there to start with you simply won't have it!
at present the CAPTOR arrangement is the best means to ADD this needed electrical factor to a coil type output!

all of which brings me round-table back to my present efforts to add the needed amperage to BOTH of my TBC outputs.
my last components to reduce the KHZ to 60HZ will arrive today - and then I will be on with it!
Locating and waiting is a REAL pain in the ass!

again, glad to meet you.

respectfully,

Clarence

[seychelles]

JUST A NEW UTUBE TO WATCH MAYBE LEARN FROM.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?list=P...&v=-LFmmyl1JmM

[clarence]

Info you asked for

Hello essourimed,

attached is the information you asked for.
since your country is overseas tell them it needs to be 220 vac @ 50 HZ.

Clarence

[clarence]

Capacitors for frequency control

Hello @ All,

I started out after the middle of November trying to locate the necessary type and size of the capacitors I need to lower the output frequency of the TBC coils
to a simple 60 HZ . this has turned into a MAJOR search an find - time consuming effort!
this effort has not ended even yet.
the whole problem has been to find the correct sized ACV rated capacitors that are the type that can be applied as a frequency filter capacitor.
there are not as many designed for this purpose as you would think.
another problem has been when I did locate a few, those particular items are not listed as a single buy item but rather you would have to purchase eight or ten of them as a group buy - in order to get the use of just one!
when the price for the eight or ten group runs 800.00 USD to better than a
1000.00 USD that's way out of my ball park for damn sure!

today I was able to locate one or two that were single buy items but they were still big dollars at 75.00 USD to 97.00 USD. each TBC would require
three to four of these big boys.

still waiting for some more price quotes to come in also.

Later, probably much later!

Clarence

[ewizard]

Clarence, I would suggest looking at surplus and used suppliers. Recently found some of these at a Ham swap for $8 each : 10000 uf 200 VDC (about 6" tall) I would also contact these people or look at their web site : HSC Electronic Supply - Silicon Valley's Electronic Marketplace which is HSC Electronic supply in Sacramento, California. They have a huge amount of surplus electronics and generally very good prices as they get much of their supply from excess in Silicon Valley. I've bought a lot from them in their brick and mortar store and they have some real deals that are hard to beat. It just will be the luck of the draw though as to whether they have exactly what you need but I'm sure there are a lot of surplus stores elsewhere.

[clarence]

Clarence, I would suggest looking at surplus and used suppliers. Recently found some of these at a Ham swap for $8 each : 10000 uf 200 VDC (about 6" tall) I would also contact these people or look at their web site : HSC Electronic Supply - Silicon Valley's Electronic Marketplace which is HSC Electronic supply in Sacramento, California. They have a huge amount of surplus electronics and generally very good prices as they get much of their supply from excess in Silicon Valley. I've bought a lot from them in their brick and mortar store and they have some real deals that are hard to beat. It just will be the luck of the draw though as to whether they have exactly what you need but I'm sure there are a lot of surplus stores elsewhere.

Hello E,

Really glad to hear from you!
I pulled up the site you mentioned but at the moment they didn't have anything I could use. however I bookmarked it for later off and on.
for frequency control I can only use ACV capacitors usually rated for both AC and DC usage. I have two options bookmarked now from Digikey. one is for 400uf 250acv (at 91.00) and the other is for 150uf 250acv (at 48.00).
so that would amount to 3 @ 91 + 1 @ 48 = 321.00 which is a chunk!

the 1350uf with a total inductance of 5.11 mh (TBC of .11mh and
2.5mh+2.5mh from each leg of a common mode inductor choke coil) will set a frequency level of 60.59 HZ.
so that in a nut shell is what I am aiming for.

As I said E, it is good to hear from you again. stay close!

Respects,

Clarence

[clarence]

Re: Capacitor search

Hello BroMikey,

Again, thanks!
went to E-Bay site and believe I found what I needed for 99.00 bucks.

will take about two weeks for delivery - but OH WELL!

actually bought in the deal 2 ea 500uf 250 acv nonpolarized caps and 4 ea
1000uf 250 acv nonpolarized caps all for the 99.00 bucks.

you can go ahead and delete all the info posts, and many thanks again!!!

Respects,

Clarence