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Sorry can't get the images from Photobucket to stick.
Will try again. Cornboy.
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Magnet motor revelation
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Hello, Mad Mack, and everyone working here.
I will put my hand up for oldfartedom, at 61, being a 1954 mod.
I have limited funds at the moment, starting a new life, and farm from scratch, but will have a go at Mack's motor, using an old Coil/motor testbed, I built years ago.
I can fit double 13" rotors in this and the build is sufficiently strong to have very close tolerances between rotor and stator magnets.
Need to wait for magnets to arrive before machining rotor.
Thanks for your disclosure Mack.
Warm Regards Everyone, Cornboy.Last edited by Cornboy 555; 10-07-2015, 02:13 AM.
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WOW, you guys are ancient. Just kidding. I am 63 and soon to be 64. I am watching these builds with much interest because over the years I have built many magnetic motors and have learned some valuable lessons from those builds. When I have time I will build this one too. For now I haven't any square neos, all round. I do have many square ceramic, low strength magnets. I will have to purchase some square neos before attempting this build. Good Luck. stealth
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Keep watching video in the meanwhile we work...
Originally posted by boguslaw View PostWhat's up guys ? can you post now something that works ?
I'm very impatient
Impatient for something that works?
Then keep enjoying my video while we are all working here:
[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lCPL7uqCt68[/VIDEO]
Magnet Motor Revelation
And by the way...give me at least one "Thumbs Up"...
Ufopolitics
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Originally posted by boguslaw View PostWhat's up guys ? can you post now something that works ?
I'm very impatient
Cheers
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What's up guys ? can you post now something that works ?
I'm very impatient
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Wantomake,
I see Ufo already answered but I'll post this anyway.
Ufo is right, you need to get the rotor magnet sets as close to 180 degrees apart as you can, and his 3 point reference is spot on. It doesn't take a machine shop to do it, all I used to lay it out was a compass, a straight edge, and a 30-60-90 triangle. I found that a hobbyist's X-acto saw from the local hobby store was good for the sides of the magnet cutouts. Just be as accurate as you can when laying it out and cutting and be prepared to do some filing and shimming to get it just right.
This picture shows how I drew my layout. My reference for the angle is different than Ufo's but on a 12” rotor it's only 2.72 degrees different from his. It's more important to make all the angles the same.
Mack
PS. Hey, that's my age too. 62 anyway. There must be something about kids born in the early 50's, eh? Like fallout from the A-bomb tests?Attached Files
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wantomake,
It says "Senior Member" by your name. Now we know why! LOL. As we are the SAME age, I can relate.
I am out of the country for two weeks and just finished moving my mom to California, so I haven't had any time to work on this, but have been scouting for metal and ways to get the ramps made. I have a friend with a CNC, so precision cutting of the parts is NOT an issue, once we have determined the proper shape, so I am following the discussions with interest. Once we have settled on something, I can get a set made to test.
Dave
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ok and thanks
Thanks my friend Ufo,
No it's ok to realize some builds take more than you think. Either I get meticulous like Madmack said at the start, or switch to one of ten other projects on my work benches.
I'm off today (61 years old my birthday) so started grinding and reshaping the ramp. Your cad helped me to relocate the rotor magnets to correct 30° angle on precisely draw lines. Then I'll attempt better holding brackets for both stators with adjustments for vertical and horizontal placement.
Lunch is over, back to this obsessive magnet motor,
wantomake
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Originally posted by citftaHi Dufo,
I did not called you "One Eyed Pea"...
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Originally posted by wantomake View PostMadmack,
Judging from I Ufo's post, and from the many tests I've run, is it possible for a simple shop to build this test rig to perfect measurements?
Dave posted #14:
MadMack,
I would think that the tolerances needed for adjustment of distances to perfectly balance a rotor/staror combination like you are talking about (when magnets pull more than they push) require some pretty detailed machine work that most folks here are not going to be able to afford to have done and do not have the equipment to build on their own, so most builders have been eliminated from this project before we get out of the starting gate.
I'm not one to discourage, be negative, and never give up. But I did get the same square 1/2" rotor, and same 1/2" x 1" stator neos. Same ramp design cold then hot rolled steel. I just want to face reality here. I'm working with simple tools, no CNC machines or high cost precision equipment.
Don't want to waste space here, this thread is very important.
What do you suggest for us lower income replicators? And yes I've read and studied each post you've left us.
Thanks very much,
wantomake
I don't have a CNC...I only have a small Chinese lathe bought at Harbor Freight for 500.00...all the rest I am doing it by hand...I cut the ramps steel with a hand saw...even though I do have a few Dremels with carbide wheels...is more precise with a fine blade...
What you really need is precision...and to use feeler gauges that you could buy in any auto parts for less than 10.00...
I have made simple tools for alignment of this line...comprehending/inserting it in the center shaft, some kind of a clear plexiglass ruler with a perfectly traced line through center.
I am sorry if my post caused you to think is too hard to make but it is not...believe me.
Regards
Ufopolitics
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Why is this?
Originally posted by citftaI post 122 I already covered how important it is to get the two magnets at exactly 180 degrees apart. I also show in that post a picture and explanation for a simple and practical way to make sure your line is in the exact center of your rotor. Instead of pretty pictures I give you a hands on way of doing what you need to do. This method allowed me to get my rotor to magnetically balance perfectly with no cogging whatsoever.
Why is it you always have to literally "jump"?!
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First off, Your rotor magnets look like pills, round, small and flat...plus you are sitting them straight centered to the 180º line, when they are supposed to be set at 30º off.
The way you are doing it...my granddaughter could glue them.
When we are talking about Cube Magnets at 30º (as recommended by Mack) comes what I was writing about.
When you are setting a Cube at 30º there are a few points more to check than when using Tylenol pills straight on to 180 line.
Besides I am working in more than "A Pretty CAD Picture"...but in real models:
[IMG][/IMG]
UfopoliticsLast edited by Ufopolitics; 10-06-2015, 03:49 PM.
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How perfect?
Madmack,
Judging from I Ufo's post, and from the many tests I've run, is it possible for a simple shop to build this test rig to perfect measurements?
Dave posted #14:
MadMack,
I would think that the tolerances needed for adjustment of distances to perfectly balance a rotor/staror combination like you are talking about (when magnets pull more than they push) require some pretty detailed machine work that most folks here are not going to be able to afford to have done and do not have the equipment to build on their own, so most builders have been eliminated from this project before we get out of the starting gate.
I'm not one to discourage, be negative, and never give up. But I did get the same square 1/2" rotor, and same 1/2" x 1" stator neos. Same ramp design cold then hot rolled steel. I just want to face reality here. I'm working with simple tools, no CNC machines or high cost precision equipment.
Don't want to waste space here, this thread is very important.
What do you suggest for us lower income replicators? And yes I've read and studied each post you've left us.
Thanks very much,
wantomake
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