Magnet motor revelation

[wantomake]

cold roll

Ufo,
Thanks. Ok I'll order me a bit of cold roll steel. I'm using the n52's 1/2" that madmack suggested use.

And just to be clear for any newcomers, the build MUST be exact. I was off 1/16" on rotor magnet placement and got bad results. But in the process of correcting the measurements.

Thanks again old friend,
wantomake

[lorinrandone]

Build your own Gaussmeter
Build your own Gaussmeter

[Turion]

Or buy one already made if you are lazy like me. It's designed to measure WEAK electromagnetic fields put off by ghosts, but should measure a magnets field just fine,
Amazon.com: The Ghost Meter EMF Sensor: Home Improvement

[BroMikey]

I want to use cold roll first as instructed so i can use my prize

metal later, after I am sure of shape. When I think cold roll I think

of pipe. If any of you know some of the uses for cold roll or what

things are made of cold roll, I would be interested to hear that.

I probably have lots of it but I am not sure. For instance PC power

supply cases do not retain magnetism so i conclude that that might

be mad of cold roll. Also Mack says heat up metal red hot with my

torch and that will ruin the metal ability to remember.

I see UFO has what looks like just any ole plate of soft steel.

I will continue to look for cold roll online till I figure this out.

Thanks for the help gentlemen. The Homemade Hall meter looks

good to me. Thanks Cristian

[tachyoncatcher]

... Also Mack says heat up metal red hot with my
torch and that will ruin the metal ability to remember....

Red hot heat does not "ruin" a metals magnetic ability. It scrambles the domains until the next time it is magnetized. The steel ramps will magnetize, but it works to test the viability of the motor. The extended ends will help minimize the counter effects. The only thing we can't beat is the eddy currents, but I'm betting it's not strong enough to stop the working of this or Mack wouldn't have suggested it.

Nice find Dave for a sensitive Gauss meter. The neos will peg that meter if trying to get a reading. Even cheapo ceramics will peg it. It tops out a 5 milligauss ( .005 ) neos will be over 2000.

Randy

[BroMikey]

Hey Randy

Thanks for pointing out the cheapo meters failures.

What about steel welding rod? Like Bedini always uses? Isn't

that a cold roll steel? Come on guys somebody knows.


$1 per foot

Order Mild Steel 1018 Rectangle in Small Quantities at OnlineMetals.com

[kenssurplus]

cold rolled vs more advanced material

Mikey here is your homework done for you:

Steel - Rod - Â*The Home Depot

If you are going to go buy some material to test with, why not buy the right stuff? Unless you are trying to show a replication failure, it seems that one would make the efforts to obtain the correct material to test with. Some of the knowledge to be gained can come best from using the right material doing the right tests as we have been instructed to do.

From a post about high silicon steel found here: Practical Machinist | LARGEST MANUFACTURING TECHNOLOGY COMMUNITY ON THE WEB
High Silicon Steel?

"Silicone decreases the solubility of carbon in iron, and for this reason a stronger steel can be obtained with less carbon than can be obtained without the silicone. When present in high-carbon steels silicone increases the brittleness but it imparts dynamic qualities to the steel and is often used in spring steel. Silicone steels are widely used for electrical purposes where a high permeability with low hysteresis loss is required. When used in transformer steel, the silicone range is about four per cent to five per cent. They are also used where corrosion resistance at elevated temperatures is desired, as in valve stems."

Practical Metallurgy for Engineers; E.F. Houghton & Co., 1943

Sounds like transformer steel. Unless theres some other odd alloying elements like Cr or Ni, then it could be a high temp. corrosion resistant alloy.

My bet, Transformer...Make a welding transformer, or a beatin stick

[BroMikey]

What Kind of STEEL? COLD ROLL?

Mikey here is your homework done for you:



If you are going to go buy some material to test with, why not buy the right stuff? Unless you are trying to show a replication failure, it seems that one would make the efforts to obtain the correct material to test with. Some of the knowledge to be gained can come best from using the right material doing the right tests as we have been instructed to do.

yes I quite agree Ken, my time spent is worth something and I think you

twisted my arm on that one. Thank you for you kind directions. I want the

good stuff. I didn't know where to buy that either. So there it is, website

and I am off and running for the grain oriented, if I want. Wait I don't see

the good stuff. Anyone want to show a source here in the states?

Deeply appreciated.

Maybe I'll find a price?

[tachyoncatcher]

Hey Randy

Thanks for pointing out the cheapo meters failures.

What about steel welding rod? Like Bedini always uses? Isn't

that a cold roll steel? Come on guys somebody knows.


$1 per foot

Order Mild Steel 1018 Rectangle in Small Quantities at OnlineMetals.com

I wasn't pointing out the failures, I actually bought one. I was pointing out what it will measure. Welding rod will magnetize too and due to it being parallel to the magnet movement, give you eddy currents through the length. Just use what Mack or wantomake or U.P. or myself is using. Flat, rolled iron or steel. If its not thick enough, do like U.P. and weld a couple pieces together for the thickness you are looking for. I used pieces of scrap metal from a old network switch casing. Eh, not ideal, but good enough for POC. I started with 1/4 plate steel, but didn't have enough and I'm too cheap to buy it before I prove it.

Randy

[wantomake]

hot or cold rolled steel

To All,
I fabricated my second ramp from cold rolled and it was brittle even after using a torch (to cherry red)and shaping it. After testing it did get magnetized "south" on the tail end, and "north" at the 150° bend. But the tines didn't magnetize any. This ramp was 3/16" thick which doesn't attract the rotor mags but taught me what is needed to push them past the attraction magnet.

Today I befriended the local metal fabrication shop guy. He said the hot rolled is much cheaper and better to bend as we need. This also needs to be heated to cherry red when bending and shaping. But he knows nothing about the magnetism aspect of the metal. If any type will magnetize then why not use an easy to fabricate metal. 1/2" x 1/2" x 2 ft cost $3.

If off track then I don't want to cause trouble for anyone. This is what I'm trying at this stage for myself. I have many old generators, ac motors, scrap this and that. So follow the good info posted already for your builds.

wantomake

[BroMikey]

I wasn't pointing out the failures, I actually bought one. I was pointing out what it will measure.

Oh, I see I goofed again.

Welding rod will magnetize too and due to it being parallel to the magnet movement, give you eddy currents through the length.

Oh thats right John B. didn't use those super strong Neo's, gotcha.

Just use what Mack or ''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''' myself is using.

10/Roger

Flat, rolled iron or steel. If its not thick enough, do like U.P. and weld a couple pieces together for the thickness you are looking for. I used pieces of scrap metal from a old network switch casing. Eh, not ideal, but good enough for POC. I started with 1/4 plate steel, but didn't have enough '''''''''''''''''''''

Good enough, now that's the kind of info I am looking for. Old network

case, right. Just like a PC case material, just rolled up factory steel

sent down the line to a press to make a shape at room temp.

I'm too cheap to buy it before I prove it.

Oh ye of little faith Squeak squeak.

To All,
I fabricated my second ramp from cold rolled and it was brittle even after using a torch (to cherry red)and shaping it. After testing it did get magnetized "south" on the tail end, and "north" at the 150° bend. But the tines didn't magnetize any.

Thats what i was afraid of. I cut my transformer steel with a pair of

scissor style tin snips and wow is this thin metal hard to cut. There is

a slight burr so i gently correct all of the edges by tapping each piece

with a very small hammer. Very wide hammer head. First lay your pieces

on a 1/4" plate of steel that is not all beat up

The local scrap yard is bound to have a pile of transformers I can pick

through like those big welders have. Better yet, I will go find a fresh

piece of steel somewhere that is Si-Fe. That's SILICON STEEL and

I have always known that but every time I go look for some they are

selling a tractor trailer full.

[Ufopolitics]

About Ramps Material...

Hey Guys,

The Ramp am working on is from Cold Roll Steel, a 1/4X1/4" SQUARE ROD-BAR sold at Home Depot...cheap...around $3.00, and I believe they also have the 1/2X1/2".

I did not torch it...it was bent cold as well and a lot of hammering and bench-vise pressing like seen on previous pictures...

[IMG][/IMG]

Now, the way I see this motor functioning...we are going to have permanent magnetizing-redirection of the Stators ending Pole to each corresponding Ramp, which would be eventually a next to each others chains of N-S-N-S-N-S...So, that means that each Stator would be inducing at all times each respective ramp which its fork tines are around their front end pole...as Rotor magnets would be ALL the same polarity...whether All North or All South (your choice) And what I mean by writing this...is that I don't see the point on being so "extremely picky" about the steel "memory" or spec's if Ramps would be ALWAYS getting same Influence/Induction at all times from either Stators or Rotor Magnets...

Hope you all understand what I mean...

As I also understand we still have no idea how the repulsion Ramps would look like...and then it could change this above scenario every 180º.

I also realize that Mack recommended to use low magnetic retention iron. And I have tested at many different models the cold steel rods...or flat strips...and I have not ever needed to red heat them...and so far they do not retain magnetism...

Now magnetic or electromagnetic machines that keep constantly swapping polarities in a symmetrical fashion does not require the steel to be that specific for magnetic memory retention, since every cycle they reverse so actually make an automatic "resetting" of domain orientation.

I would really spend more time on getting the closest gap possible...and the best, no cogging balancing which is ESSENTIAL for this motor to operate. And like Wantomake wrote before...the precision error should be minimized to almost a perfect zero error...even being a theoretical statement.

Just one degree or one millimeter difference between rotor magnets positioning would cause not to reach a perfect balancing...that simple...

[IMG][/IMG]

and remember Mack used automotive feeler gauges to set rotor shaft distances to rotor magnets...as well as air gaps and all measurements.


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Siggi1974]

Rotor setup

Hi,

Here my rotor design.

Best regards
Siggi

[Ufopolitics]

Who said we ain't got a Running Motor Video!!??

Where is the video of your running magnetic motor ?

Hey Bogus,

Were you saying We ain't got a Running Motor Video?!!

Watch below:


[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lCPL7uqCt68&feature=youtu.be[/VIDEO]


MAGNETIC MOTOR RUNNING VIDEO

































Take care


Ufopolitics

[BroMikey]

Hey Bogus,

Were you saying We ain't got a Running Motor Video?!!



Take care


Ufopolitics

Now that is funny



UFO, you are a hard man, thanks 4 giving your knowledge

freely.



I made another version of the cold roll ramp, not a problem.


Nice motor.: