Magnet motor revelation

[a.n]

Heló. More than through 1 clock the magnetosztatikus from energy nourished. Evidence that way, that magnets as a power source useful if we kit them out in a suitable arrangement. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hyzJbB-OdpU
Similar that here the 3:40 minutes shows. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ofwK...ature=youtu.be Thanks Gotoluc.
The magnetic field of the load causes a surplus rotation though here.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B8ZyrEDYgVI
From these the principles from a band's combination it is possible to prepare an interesting machine possibly.

[BroMikey]

Yes Mikey thank you.

I see your video. The rotor magnets are wrong. Turn the rotor magnets
toward the ramps. Right now you have the rotor magnets pointed away
from the ramps. Try it, if you understand?

Look at the picture at the bottom. Your rotor is the bottom one.

Rotor magnets no good angle.

[lorinrandone]

	

		

			

			
				
				
I see your video. The rotor magnets are wrong. Turn the rotor magnets
toward the ramps. Right now you have the rotor magnets pointed away
from the ramps. Try it, if you understand?

Look at the picture at the bottom. Your rotor is the bottom one.

Rotor magnets no good angle.:cheers:


			
		
	

Of course Mickey but the video is recorded before changing the settings last time. And yes, this will be the sense of repulsion because my ramp works best in the current sense

[MadMack]

There is much I want to say to you all but I just don't have the time. I will try to get back here this weekend.

Cristian,
I just watched your last video. Two thumbs up! You are on a tangent but if you have good results, and it looks like you do, then go with it. There is no such thing as wrong here if the results are good. My first thought is “What are you waiting for?” There is more than one way to success. You are right on the threshold.

Regards,
Mack

[BroMikey]

Of course Mickey but the video is recorded before changing the settings last time. And yes, this will be the sense of repulsion because my ramp works best in the current sense

Me sorry Cristian, good work.

There is much I want to say to you all but I just don't have the time. I will try to get back here this weekend.

Cristian,
I just watched your last video. Two thumbs up! You are on a tangent but if you have good results, and it looks like you do, then go with it. There is no such thing as wrong here if the results are good. My first thought is “What are you waiting for?” There is more than one way to success. You are right on the threshold.

Regards,
Mack

And thanks to you Mack for stopping me from becoming dogmatic.
We are all waiting for your help when time permits.

[Stealth]

I have been following this thread from the beginning. I am encouraged by the progress as a whole. Magnetic motors is a passion of mine. I am now in the process of securing materials for my own build. I truly like the bicycle wheel motor arrangement. The ramps or gates need to be precise in order for it to self run. Measurements can't be trusted, as no two magnets are exactly alike. Adjustments need to be made to all moving and non moving magnets in order to obtain a balance to the system. Only then, can you start unbalancing for self running mode. I have been down this road many times and it appears that many of you are on the road to success. Good Luck. stealth

[lorinrandone]

	

		

			

			
				
				
Me sorry Cristian:embarrassed:, good work.







And thanks to you Mack for stopping me from becoming dogmatic.:thumbsup:
We are all waiting for your help when time permits.
			
		
	

Mikey nothing happens.
I have all the availability to share with you if you need it. Keep in mind that any graphics program can not I use. I am 72 years old, I can not learn more.
Good luck

[Ufopolitics]

Some details about building this Motor...

Hello Guys,

I would not recommend for anyone else to try with smaller magnets like I am working with of 1/4X1/4X1/4 and 1/2X1/4 for stators...(Siggi, and for you as well..)

First it is very hard to obtain a perfect balancing, since the center point of alignment is like a pin head...plus spec's wise, this small magnets are far from closer in strength...Plus they do not have the sufficient strength to pull towards steel/iron....And no matter if they are N52 or N48 or 42...

The first main stage to accomplish on this set up is to get a perfect balance...meaning, when magnets are all on (Rotor and Stators) without ramps...it should feel there are no magnets present at all...that IS a perfect balance.

There should not be ANY sticky points after a correct balancing at all...no matter how you turn rotor on either forwards or reverse.

Second are the ramps construction of the perfect length forks to obtain enough throw out angle (power stroke) to reach the next level ramp curve.

According to my experience acquired here by building this set up...the finer the tine's ends...the less the stator field -at interaction- would be affected, therefore, the less stator adjustments to be made after mounting ramps.

For the beginners: start first by just Two Stators and Two Rotor Magnets...don't waste time trying to build at once the whole thing...is a waste of time and money, plus a way to go really mad.... Until you get the right angles, the right gaps...and the right centered lines to get a balance spec on your type of magnets.

Rotor Magnets MUST BE perfectly aligned through the outer edge of cube passing through rotor perfect center to the second cube edge. And here using 30º Angle is just fine, so don´t waste time trying to make rotor magnets adjustable.

Mack's way to draw that rotor angle is the right way, (Image shown below) ...since the degree line MUST align with the cube vertical surface.

[IMG][/IMG]

Rotor shaft-bearings MUST NOT have ANY end play, meaning, just enough clearance to rotate freely...other wise it will get out of balance from repulsion side alignment

Stators MUST BE ALSO in a perfect center line passing by rotor center...and in order to start this if you are using clear plastic...is to FIRST, before drilling any holes on base or rotor "to be"...draw everything FIRST with compass and fine needles right on plastic...then lay one piece on top of the other and they should have exactly same angles, same lines...no crossed lines errors, nor mistakes here...at all.

So, draw your whole set up on both surfaces FIRST...THEN start cutting, drilling, lathing etc,etc.

I do not have a CNC Machine...only a small lathe for metal...that would be limited to Chuck diameter size. It can not do a 12" Rotor...that is why I chose the 6" diameter with 1/4" cubes.

Yes, the precision is beyond accurate...I really mean it...and of course, tons of patience if you want success...


Regards and good luck in your builds.


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Hi Ufo,

nice Video again and very helpful. One question to your setup...can you adjust the distance of rotor to stator magnet and perhaps play with the distance? It is my experience that you get better acceleration when you let the rotor magnet induce a stronger field in the ramps and weaken the massive sticky point when the magnets are aligned. I think that this is one adjustment that can always very easily be done to fix imperfections of the ramp a little. Would be brilliant to get that feedback. Another nice adjustment that helps is the movement of ramp tines over the stator magnet together with the angle towards the rotor. I am still thinking of a smart ramp carrier that will allow that all to do. The third nice adjustment is the spreading of the ramp tines to a lower or higher degree of stator magnet induction. All these adjustments can be done without making a complete new ramp and helps to learn the effects.

Best regards
Siggi

Sorry Siggi for getting this late to you...please forgive me

My set up I can adjust almost everything...but after having trouble with this small magnets...I decided to set them fixed and use rotor outer surface as alignment. Problem here is that just One Degree (1º) or even less offset, would throw out balancing...

Yes that is a good point to follow...you must realize that by the time rotor magnet is ending inducing ramp...the tines ends should be almost zero cross section, in order to literally "drop it" exactly at stator bisector with the acceleration gained from ramp.

Also a great idea to make adjustable forks openings...simple deal though...a brass small bolt...make thread on one side and hole for bolt and adjust it very easy with ramp mounted, however I see this for the beginning set up...with two modules...since once you get the right spec's there is no sense going over all ramps to do this work...

Stators we should also make a "one way" straight adjustments with bolts...so is either forward or back...no angles there or getting loose too much, so advancing straight forwards with very fine thread bolts. In other words, make stators that slide in a very tight channel by screwing back and forth.


Regards


Ufopolitics

[BroMikey]

Visual for ramp tine mass reduction.

[lorinrandone]

Hello everyone
I think we all have seen that I had an atitude reserved on the evolution of this project. It was my limitation to communicate in English, has been let others to teach their own opinions, but I have come to a somewhat positive results, and I think I have to share with you as does Ufo, but firstly Mack. We have to agree that Mack has a very high education. It has something to remember me by one of my teachers in their technique to communicate with students. What I mean is that it has never imposed any of his explanations, and has always left a range of elasticity according to each.
That is why I still continued to use round magnets has gone though a lot of inconvenience for the form of magnetic field and the importance of each. Beginning with the same:

First point. - It is not wrong to use round magnets, this demonstrated in my progress.

Advantages: job easier, cheaper magnets etc. Easy balance. with the largest diameter. And yes Mikey, a round magnet It has virtual corners. Try you get a round magnet in an imaginary square profile, and you will see how the magnet has corners. This is an exercise to get balance.


Second point. - the ramps In my experience in testing of all booms and materials Ufo I think is right. The ramp accelerations must be smaller than the ramp repelacion, but not have to be with this design. The more you try to to get an idea of what is the best. I will upload some photos to mine. Materials - the best, it is certainly transformer sheets


third point.

Angle rotor magnet: The angle is recommended by Mark, that is 30 degrees, but according to their design, physical outside diameter range. I do not recommended Ufo settings because it is rigid, vibration and gives a lot of trouble starting. A bit out gives the spinning rotor
That's all for this time.
Best regard Cristian Alba.

[Siggi1974]

Very good Chris

Hey Christian,

I like your motor and the progress you make. What I find really interesting in your setup is, that you already use a kind of shielding, meaning that all your magnets are fixed in a plastic housing and only have the magnet fronts free towards each other. Also the relationship between steel mass used for the ramps and the strength of the induced stator field is very interesting, because it indicates that you have more induction of the rotor magnet where I feel this is correct for the acceleration phase. Very nice mate... Need to go in my workshop this weekend

Best regards
Siggi

[Siggi1974]

Sorry Siggi for getting this late to you...please forgive me

My set up I can adjust almost everything...but after having trouble with this small magnets...I decided to set them fixed and use rotor outer surface as alignment. Problem here is that just One Degree (1º) or even less offset, would throw out balancing...

Yes that is a good point to follow...you must realize that by the time rotor magnet is ending inducing ramp...the tines ends should be almost zero cross section, in order to literally "drop it" exactly at stator bisector with the acceleration gained from ramp.

Also a great idea to make adjustable forks openings...simple deal though...a brass small bolt...make thread on one side and hole for bolt and adjust it very easy with ramp mounted, however I see this for the beginning set up...with two modules...since once you get the right spec's there is no sense going over all ramps to do this work...

Stators we should also make a "one way" straight adjustments with bolts...so is either forward or back...no angles there or getting loose too much, so advancing straight forwards with very fine thread bolts. In other words, make stators that slide in a very tight channel by screwing back and forth.


Regards




Ufopolitics

Hey Ufo,
Thanks for getting back to me my friend. I like your ideas for making adjustments to our setups. I will post some pictures of my current setup tomorrow. Having a CNC is a gift for doing this. I still like the idea of having adjustable rotor magnet carriers also, because it allows easily to test different magnets in strength, size and angle by just milling new carriers and not complete rotors. Same with Stator magnet carriers.
See you later.

Best regards
Siggi

[BroMikey]

News flash update

NEWS FLASH!!! NEWS FLASH!!!

I know it sounds silly but I have to do this drama flash!!

I have found out a very important discovery almost as big as

the "Y" ramp. Especially since it pertains to the "Y" induction ramp.

Here is what I learned. Remember I told you I have many ramps?

Well I have been studying induction of metal ramps without

magnets for awhile. When I started switching to running ramps

with stator magnets and back again, without I find that the larger

ramps with more mass do not perform as well as the ramps with less mass.

I know shape also plays a part but here is what I think is happening.

Remember Mack said that K&J had a way to figure out how much ramp

or he said iron it took to hold all of the flux from a magnet???????

It is very important that we understand what that figure is. Having more

mass in the form of iron will not direct flux well so induction is optimal.

I still have not been able to mathematically figure it out yet.

It will be some figure like so much iron cm3/##gauss

If my ramp is a little to much mass the pull on rotor magnet drops.

I have one ramp that is half the mass of the other giving twice the

pulling power from a distance. A ramp can waste flux or shall I say

having double the iron weakens the ramps flux per square inch. The flux

lost. I have a really thin laminated ramp that works best being light

much to my surprise. I made some really huge ramps and they work

poorly. So mass is very important so a high concentration of flux can

be packed into the leading edge.


Also the other end where the forks come close to the stator need to

be lower mass anyway so the ramp lets go.


What I am trying to say is less is more, more is not better.

[wantomake]

Happy medium

Thanks Bromikey,
Well now I see your point. My first ramp was thin and small, the second larger and longer, but no better pull on the rotor mags. So I'll start grinding this one down and leave longer tines.

Finding that happy medium is the trick. Don't have gauss meter or know the math for the flux. So will do as many trys as it takes.

wantomake