Magnet motor revelation

[BroMikey]

One more diagram for Ramp/Stator tests.

This is the way to go. Cancellation is much easier for step 1.

Then the pull back from the passing rotor magnet to stator is far

less. It is about losses "REMEMBER"

This arrangement with both changes makes both ramps equal

on acceleration. Guys try it, you will never look back.

[tachyoncatcher]

Balancing

... My current problem is the precise balancing of the four poles that I use at this time. Ie it is not possible without full circle perfect balance....

Cristian,
I find weight balance the easy part. I either drill holes in the heavy side of the rotor. Or, if you find the imbalance to much for material removal, then drill holes in the light side and fill them back up with a epoxy/fiberglass resin and lead bird shot mix. I use fiberglass resin in place of the epoxy for composite mixes like that.

The tough part for me is getting the magnets all equal in strength. Mack shared the process for that here.

Regards,

Randy

[BroMikey]

This is my French!!!Oui, Monsieur

You are my friend. And teacher.

I am downloading now.

Mickey. A big shout out to you to others and especially to Mack.
I understand that you want to publish my last video, but is more comfortable waiting for the next because it is much more evolved. I mean that my progress with this engine are incredible. I have come | close circle more than once. My current problem is the precise balancing of the four poles that I use at this time. Ie it is not possible without full circle perfect balance. I am also using my sheets transformer ramps that are slightly different from the usual. I'll leave some pictures with the pair of ramps made my style. the NEXT step for me will make a six-pole rotor in a numerical milling cutter to eliminate balance problems. I came up idea of will check the effectiveness of the ramp using only a magnet. You will see the mode of behave the magnet. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4SxXyvfk1I That's all for this time.
And Mickey, Thanks for keeping open thread
Best regards. cristian

[BroMikey]

This one is even better. The opposing forces cancel, the induction

ramps attract very strong and once the ramping is done, cancellation

past both sides repel the rotor magnet in the positive direction.


A strong attraction is achieved for both ramps not just the attraction

side. The cancellation is easier and as the magnets leave the cancellation

area instead of being pulled back are both equally repelled.

BTW I thought I was the first man to invent this drawing then

I see people did that already but I just didn't see it til now.

Thanks to everyone, this is soooooo exciting, so rewarding to learn

new things. Thanks Mack.

PS.Note:
I am back after a few more tests. The repulsion side in this diagram needs

the stator magnet to turn away from the incoming rotor mag, while the

attraction side stator needs to turn into the rotor magnet. Since

this is not a uniform adjustment I had some concerns about the

cancellation effect. I set it up both ways by hand because all of my

test have been done this way from the beginning. What I found is that

the rotor magnets don't care which side of the stator pole, it is exposed

to, as long as the angles are the same on each side.

I have achieved cancellation many times using this diagram. Does

anyone understand what that means in terms of optimizing induction

forces and cutting loses? Please give it some thought.

This layout pushes as much as it pulls.


I mean to tell you this config might run on it's own. Barely.

[BroMikey]

Stator angle AND ramp mass effect on cancellation center line.

Some may ask why would I want to angle the stator so far over?

Because this increases induction power in ramps. The bottom dia.

shows how the ramp throws off the cancellation center.

Adjustable stator angle will give the power stroke more energy but

at the same time move the cancellation zone.

[wantomake]

observations

Wow, really slow here.

I've been testing different size laminated and iron ramps. The one common problem with each one is the polarization of the tines nearest to the stator mags. This seems to be a sticking point for the rotor magnets.

I thought my unbalanced rotor was the cause, so I painstakingly got it balanced. Then noticed the rotor still stopping at the same spot. The beginning of the forks is the sticking spot. With a small cheap compass found the tines polarizing in different ways.

Questions.
Does this slow the rotation from the fork to the stator magnets?
Can this polarization be stopped by bending the tines back toward the other end of the stator magnet?

Well the laminated iron seems to polarize less. But this is where I am at this time.

Hope all is well for Madmack,
wantomake

[BroMikey]

Wow, really slow here.
This seems to be a sticking point for the rotor magnets.

I am not sure how you look at polarize. This is how I view the process.

2 rotor mags, 2 stator mags and 1 ramp. Adjust stators till no sticky

spot is detectable and post video.


Next take that ramp off.

Next put the other side ramp on and repeat the adjustment.

No sticky spot.

Move one stator magnet while the other is fixed til equilibrium is

reached. With my biggest ramp attached to the attraction stator

my repulsion stator magnet is 1" off center. As well as angling.

No stick spot/polarization/magnetization/stuck. None.

Having 1 ramp on off balances the magnetic fields greatly yet after

both ramps are installed balance in restored.


To achieve balance with one ramp, ignore the fine print and go

outside the box. Move the stators around.

Macks last post suggest stator magnet testing for good reason.

It may look like the magnets are dead on using line of sight but those

distortions in the field lines say otherwise.


1 degree off on a stator is enough to keep you from balance. I have been

meaning to draw up a diagram showing the probability of field line changes

based of magnet angles with distance.

[BroMikey]

Let me tell you where I am at in the process.

All my tests have been by hand and now that I am trying to

bring the magnets closer the forces are much stronger. So strong

that my bearing is letting the rotor flop. The rotor ends are moving

1/8th of and inch so everytime I try to force the magnets together

to get cancellation I fail. I ordered the magnets and brass. Last night

I pulled a 1/2" shaft out of a AC fan motor. Nice stuff. It's got to

be tight. I remembered Mack saying it is the little things that ruin

your project. Then I remembered Mack saying use a feeler

gauge to make spaces, and my rotor is moving 1/8"??? No NO

Then I see Cristian's ramps are very strong and when I look at my best

ramp I laugh because it flops all over. I liked that ramp.

Oh well I'll keep it all for a side line test jig.

My round magnets will go on the shelf in favor of square magnets at

which time I will let you all know what I see by comparison.



I can't get the ramps close enough to the rotor yet. $6 Each for these.


I will let you all know about my plastic later.

[BroMikey]

Thanks Cristian

I understand your post well. How about this? Oil Bearings many balls?

No my rotor is 12"

Boston Gear 5491 Anti Friction Ball Bearing 0 500" Inner Diameter 1 125" Outer | eBay

[tachyoncatcher]

Attraction Ramps

... The beginning of the forks is the sticking spot. With a small cheap compass found the tines polarizing in different ways.

Questions.
Does this slow the rotation from the fork to the stator magnets?
Can this polarization be stopped by bending the tines back toward the other end of the stator magnet? ...

Hey wantomake,
When the ramp splits, some induction force is lost. I have found two ways to overcome this. Bring the ramp closer and increase the mass/thickness of the tines in the middle. Once the magnet gets close enough to the stator magnet, on the attraction node, then it will pull the rotor in. It was suggested to extend the tines beyond the attraction magnets to allow the next ramp to influence the rotation before the attraction ramp ends. It was also suggested to thin the attraction ramps to a point at their ends. I tried to bend the ends away and found that bending caused a two fold issue on the attraction side. It increased the force vectors to the rotor and the north pole polarity in the ends of the tines increase this stopping force.

While typing this out, I just realized something. Duh, I have been bending the ends of the forks away from the rotor. What if we take those north polarized fork ends and bend them toward the rotor instead? Maybe past the middle of the rotor magnet. Yes, they're north polarized, even though they wrap around the south pole of the stator magnet. The moving rotor magnet causes this.

Something new to try. --- thinking out loud ---

Cheers,

Randy

[wantomake]

test standard

Thanks Cristian, Bromikey, and Randy.
Has a standard way to test ramps been posted yet? I've not seen one or I missed it.

This is how I test the ramp to find out if the rotor will be pulled past the stator magnet.
I move the rotor magnet slowly toward the ramp until it starts being pulled toward the attraction magnet. Let it freely move with no tap at all. This shows if there's any sticking point.

So far no acceleration past the stator magnet. Mind you if given a small tap it does accelerate past the magnet. And the balance is very good between the stator magnets.

I'm curious how you guys test your ramp.
Thanks guys,
wantomake

[BroMikey]

Thanks Christian, Bromikey, and Randy.
Has a standard way to test ramps been posted yet?

I'm curious how you guys test your ramp.
Thanks guys,
wantomake

I'll give that one a spin

(1) If your ramp does not come close enough to the rotor magnet
induction forces will not exceed the so called sticky spot.

(2) Single rotor magnet faced up with a single stator magnet might result
in a 30lb pull force at say a 5mm gap. When balance/cancellation is
achieved a pull force of 1 pound or less maybe considered normal.

(3) When step one is correct install a single ramp. If balance is lost then
repeat step one all over again till losses or the sticky spot is reduced
to the lowest level. Ramp tines to close to stator will greatly
increase imbalance.

(4) To test the ramp slowing bring the rotor magnet around until induction
from the "Y" ramp begins to pull the rotor magnet into it's field.

(5) If the rotor magnet is not accelerated sufficiently enough to make it
past the cancellation zone, ramp parameters should be reviewed.

(6) Ramp shaping, ramp angling, ramp mass should be changed so enough
momentum through acceleration can be realized to overcome the so
called left over magnetic lock.

(7) Ramp tine distance from the stator magnet and mass are a place to
start so increased inductive forces will eventually exceed the limited
cancellation losses.

[BroMikey]

Hello everyone.
Look, everyone knows that I do not control the English. For this I pray, ..............................
Mickey, Bushing Bearing is good but we need to reduce the inside diameter to 10-12mm. cristian

Good picture Cristian. Okay I will use a small bearing.

[shylo]

Nice work

Hi Christian,
You should put your ramps of both sides of the stator magnet.
I'm only using rotor magnets and layers of steel.
Watch how a magnet will be attracted, and then be hidden.
Just an idea, Nice work.
artv

[BroMikey]

I decided to start over going to step one.

I will be posting video about step one. In step one many possibilities

exist to achieve cancellation.

Mainly what I found with my rotor magnets is one side will cancel

while the other side is not. Since my rotor magnets are non adjustable

this stops me dead in my tracks. This junky test platform is good

for showing up sloppy work.

I'll be right back.