I received a link to Michael Roland's obituary from his wife, Tammy. Bro Mikey passed away November 6, 2022 in Macksville, KS. He was born May 14, 1957. I sent a card to his family. We disagreed often, but I believe his heart was in the right place.
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I show you my dc to dc converter from 12 volts to 24 volts
image_24952.jpg IMG-20220726-WA0072.jpg
working perfectlyLast edited by alexelectric; 10-23-2022, 03:41 AM.
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Originally posted by Turion View PostSo if you have a Tesla switch up and running, you can run a boost between the positives. That gives you a KNOWN voltage output because you can SET the boost output voltage. Now look on line for a home made DC to DC converter. Here is ONE example I found: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyslcihUtzQ&t=183s
But rather than run the power back to GROUND where it goes through the primary coils, run it to the CHARGE battery. So if your output from the Boost is set to about 26 volts output, and you wind the home made DC to DC converter to run on 12 AND OUTPUT 26 volts, You run your home made between the output of the store bought (26V) and the charge battery (12V). you get the OUTPUT of the DC to DC converter to play with to see what you can do with it. And yu are hitting your charge battery with voltage from TWO sources, not counting what you do with the voltage from the home made output.
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Originally posted by wantomake View PostLast edited by Matthew Jones; 10-22-2022, 05:58 AM.
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wantomake
All the crap David is trying to tell you is just BS.. None of that works, i can go through the math for ya but not now. He refuses to try these things.
The motor TS you are building is easy to solve. The drawing is backwards, use the positive side. Its works either way but the battery life is longer pulling power from the positive.
You need to understand that the magnets and the spacing on the rotor create the duty cycle, Width of the magnets and the circumference of the rotor are the key. The speed creates frequency. You can derive through math and geometry a topography for a buck converter. And here is your calculator: https://www.daycounter.com/Calculato...lculator.phtml.
Now all you have to do is figure out how big your inductor should be. You have no diode you only have the voltage drop caused from the transistor. You will only have 100% ripple in both current and voltage .
LA Batts charge best when the charging current is 0.1 volt above. That's the target. Slow is better than fast at first, more copper but better results.
Just think about it, look, and you'll get it. The first one is an investment in education and the second one you control. David won't get you there promise.
MattLast edited by Matthew Jones; 10-22-2022, 12:20 AM.
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So if you have a Tesla switch up and running, you can run a boost between the positives. That gives you a KNOWN voltage output because you can SET the boost output voltage. Now look on line for a home made DC to DC converter. Here is ONE example I found: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyslcihUtzQ&t=183s
But rather than run the power back to GROUND where it goes through the primary coils, run it to the CHARGE battery. So if your output from the Boost is set to about 26 volts output, and you wind the home made DC to DC converter to run on 12 AND OUTPUT 26 volts, You run your home made between the output of the store bought (26V) and the charge battery (12V). you get the OUTPUT of the DC to DC converter to play with to see what you can do with it. And yu are hitting your charge battery with voltage from TWO sources, not counting what you do with the voltage from the home made output.
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Still working on a rotor setup for a type of Tesla Switch. Not exactly the TS but similar. Not exactly the John Bedini SSG but similar.
Will be using larger rotor with 6 of the 2" neodymium magnets. No transformer usage as that takes pulsing of the DC voltage. And that takes quick timed controlled pulsing that hasn't been proved to add or maintain battery voltage.
BroMikey get better soon!! Still praying and believing for you!!
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Sad to hear BroMikey, you have been a balanced, consistent and most helpful poster, I will miss your insights, I wish you luck in your health battle, regards Arto.
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wantomake,
I don't have any idea what will happen with those toroids. I have built many versions of the Tesla switch with transformers, including all three Matt showed in his pdf. Never saw OU with any of them. That was back in the day. Getting the setup to hold battery voltage is tough to do, and I have only seen extended run times in the past with transformers.
The setup I have now is holding. It switches about every 20 minutes, so not rapid switching. My goal is to switch out my current load for transformers and see what I can do with them. I'm pretty sure that ONE transformer will not be enough to get gains. As I've said before, all the gains will come form the load, not from the Tesla Switch itself. I'm trying to figure out what the MINIMUM number of batteries I can have is, and still run a load and keep the batteries charged.
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Originally posted by Turion View Postwantomake,
Give me a few weeks and I can send you some stuff to put together the Tesla Switch. Gotta make sure mine has ALL the kinks worked out and then I am scaling up and you can have what I am working with now. I already have parts ordered. It will only give you about 40 watts, but your batteries will stay up.
The trick to scaling it up has been finding some latching relays that will switch 120+ volts DC to scale it up to what I want. THAT has taken a lot of phone calls and research. Found some that fit the bill perfectly, only they were $800 each, and that's miles outside my budget range. Finally have some the tech says will handle it, even though that info is not included in the spec sheet, but need to order one, test it, and order more before I can put something together and then test THAT to make sure it works. Don't want to give away what I HAVE until I get something better working.
I'm still trying to get the rotor to work but it's difficult. Just wanted to stay busy in my shop even with the change of seasons here in South Carolina.
I've never seen any latching relays before. Looked them up and understand now. That's ok if one goes the relay way of building. I've built the relay setup with six relays before using Arduino as a controller. But the car relays were unreliable as they sometimes got stuck and didn't switch quick enough. Your car points idea seems like good idea. But I'm not convinced that high hertz switching is best to get "extra energy" because of my inability to achieve such.
As I've stated here many times, with only 4 marine 115 Ah batteries and limited resources it's difficult to try every variation of this TS.
I've tried a smaller version of the;
1) relay very fast switching (3 different versions)
2) DPDT manual switching
3) modified motor with voltage step up modules
I haven't tried a transformer setup yet. I found two 4 1/2 OD x 2 1/2 ID x 1 5/8" H toroids in my shop that Lawrence(who passed on) gave me. Been studying how to wind one of these to try out. Both toroids have a secondary AC winding on them.
Anyway just wanted to catch up a little here. It's good to see all those praying for BroMikey here. Believe what you pray and pray what you believe. God WILL answer!!!
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Bro Mike is we to thank you for all the help you have always given us, for all the teachings and encouragement, even if we have never met, over the years with all the various comments and discussions, it is as if you become Friends, and now it's as sad as when a friend leaves us ....
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