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Have been having some trouble getting my NEW generator put together, even though my buddy who built it has his up and running. He has the advantage of having all his pieces right there to assemble. I am trying to Nate new pieces with existing pieces and it has been a lot of “cut and fit.” Got MOST of it figured out and should have it completely together by Friday afternoon. So will be doing some testing to make sure nothing is rubbing. I’m all out of the spacers I need and a three hour round trip to Sacramento to buy two spacers ain’t gonna happen. My friends there are looking for some, so that will help. I also got an update on the coils. They should all be done by next Tuesday. If nothing rubs, and I don’t end up needing spacers, I will be trying to loop the machine this weekend. Should be fun. I can’t wait to show my wife.“Advances are made by answering questions. Discoveries are made by questioning answers.”
—Bernhard Haisch, Astrophysicist
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Originally posted by Turion View PostThey should all be done by next Tuesday. If nothing rubs, and I don’t end up needing spacers, I will be trying to loop the machine this weekend. Should be fun. I can’t wait to show my wife.
Very few people give you the consideration like our wives do. It shouldn't be that way but because men are selfish and impatient they often respond in a negative way. You know me even tho I heard a box rubbing I knew you were on it so I didn't say anything. It is important that a box not rub as it may turn into an imbalance.
Good to hear from you. My wife asked me when I am going to see any lectric from it.
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Originally posted by BroMikey View PostQuantum motor
He is basically storing energy in his capacitive coil, which puts a load on the motor. So let's say that it takes 600W to run at a certain speed xxx rpms. Without that capacitive coil, it would only require 400W to turn the motor at speed yyy rpm, with yyy > xxx.
Use this as the starting point: 400W to turn the motor at yyy rpm. Then move his capacitive coil to the machine. This will load the motor, slow it down to xxx rpms and increase the required power to 400W to 600W.
And then the case where he is charging the battery: take again the starting point of 400W to turn the motor at yyy rpm, then apply the battery load, it will slow down the motor to zzz rpm (zzz < yyy) and require more input power (500W in this case).
And again, Pout << Pin
Where is the free lunch here?
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Have you tried using 1 core like this? Almost no drag or increase. Now what was your question? I've tried it I know. You only fantasize some huge draw over one core. Try it. run a rotor and add 1 core and watch the amp meter. Almost nothing. Yet when you engage it this way as Thane shows you get a generator or a motoring action that is huge far exceeding the slight increased core drag you can barely even detect.
Sitting back and guessing is your problem. However knowing the coil you would put on the core would not work. You can't wind a coil like this either.
Then how do you explain his e-bike always charging itself after all the work he is doing right in the front of your eyes? You can't because all you do is guess.Last edited by BroMikey; 10-30-2021, 12:55 PM.
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Originally posted by BroMikey View PostThen how do you explain his e-bike always charging itself after all the work he is doing right in the front of your eyes? You can't because all you do is guess.
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Originally posted by pmgriphone View PostI have commented on all those videos with the battery voltage numbers and not a single video shows the battery voltage going up
yes but all your stuff is speculation. you have no coil or core. just guessesLast edited by BroMikey; 10-30-2021, 10:29 PM.
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Originally posted by BroMikey View Post
You turn video evidence into an irrational thought. The purpose is to show an e=bike running without being charged externally. Stays at 72v-75v always
yes but all your stuff is speculation. you have no coil or core. just guesses
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Spell out all of the processes taking place on the e-bike starting and ending with the factory battery bank and i'll see you in 72-75 yrs is what you mean. Way over you head. Remember to become fully versed on wave forms ev's use, being produced by a processor from the battery bank.
All of the conversion back.
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So, I got the spacers put in the generator today and it looks pretty good. The motor mount I had made for the previous version definitely doesn't fit on top with the spacers added, and I routed out some of the plastic today so that it would fit, but not enough. Have to take more off tomorrow to get everything to go together the way I want it. Hopefully I can finish that up and get the motor mounted tomorrow so it is ready to go. Then I need to rewire some things on my light board. I have it so that the first thing voltage hits is the volt meter and then it goes through the switch to the amp meter and the light. Since the thing is putting out over 300 volts open voltage, I don't want it pegging my meters. That's not good for them, so I need to run the voltage to the switch first with the meter measuring voltage across the load when it is switched on. With five setups to rewire it will probably take me a couple hours to do that. Then I will be ready to run some tests. I may get it all done tomorrow. Who knows. I have until about 2:00 in the afternoon. After that I am tied up with other stuff.
On Monday I should be able to start putting coils in the machine, and on Tuesday the rest of the coils will arrive. So before next weekend I should have everything done and be ready to submit it to be tested at the lab next week. At least I hope so. I am still a bit concerned about how hard it is to turn the rotor. I can't see any place where it is binding up, but an issue there means amp draw. I'm not sure if there IS an issue, or if it's just that a rotor with twice the magnets is so much heavier and more difficult to rotate. Guess I will see when the motor is attached. Amp draw of the motor with no coils in place will tell me a lot, and I can go from there. I do NOT want to have to take this thing apart once it is all together. That's a pain in the rear end!“Advances are made by answering questions. Discoveries are made by questioning answers.”
—Bernhard Haisch, Astrophysicist
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I started out at age 8-9 and then 10-11 years was doing small engine racing at over 100 mph. Mid Ohio track was a long down hill run of say 10 degrees. It lasted over a mile. Things fell apart and I learned all thru the long years that becoming a master rigger took more than meets the eye. I have seen your box and I can tell you about the work involved.
Keep right on taking your time, like you did the see-ment work. You are almost home
Or use a ? ohm https://www.ebay.com/itm/40128799533...3ABFBMtumw2Zpf
we will need a high number not 1
Use a ? ohm resister (50watt) across the output on the coils. Then switch it out after it is running so as not to let peak voltage ruin all of your devices. This is what everybody does in the electronic field. This always keeps a slight load all thru start up and bang another switch for full load and then switch out the dumby load. Use the same style of switching just think it thru. In other words, one way you have the safety dumby load and the other position full load. Just like you are doing with the 2 power supplies
The magnets you will adjust I am confident will do much better than you old clunker.Last edited by BroMikey; 10-31-2021, 09:54 AM.
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