The old WHITE machine started out with six of the 3" magnets with 3" between each one. The last rotor I had in it had 12 of the 1" x 1" magnets and it is the one in a LOT of the videos I have posted from Greyland's shop. It had no sleeves around those magnets and worked fine. It was outputting 130V per coil pair at a little over 2 amps per pair at 2800 RPM with the OLD CORE MATERIAL, and about 85-90 % of that with the NEW core material. Voltage was close to the same, but amps went down.
I had high hopes that the new BLACK machine, running at a higher rpm with TWICE the magnets would put out more power. It did not. When I put in a NEW rotor with only 20 magnets instead of 24 to give more space between magnets, I saw no improvement. When I removed HALF the magnets in THAT rotor, bringing the total down to 10, which is CLOSER to the original machine's 12 magnets, it still did not achieve even CLOSE to the output per coil pair seen on the OLD machine with the NEW core material.
It is my suspicion that the large steel plate on top of the BLACK machine to which the motor is mounted that is less than 3/4" above the rotor is causing the problem. We will find out as testing progresses. If that turns out to be the problem, we can go to a direct drive (vs belt drive) motor like the WHITE machine has, and I still have the old 24 magnet rotor I can put back in. But we want to get it outputting first. Testing the old and new coils on the old machine is the first step. They are working on it. Unlike me, they both have full time jobs and small children, so time is a premium. I have my own projects, so I am in no hurry to get drug back into that one.
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Originally posted by Turion View PostThe old machine had no sleeves on the magnets on the rotor or the opposition magnets and I never had a problem. I will see what they say after they get finished testing. Testing BEFORE sleeves are put in will allow for a comparison without and with sleeves, if that is what we decide to do. Haven't heard anything. Was out of town all day and got home late.
The old magnets never overlapped fields. The new rotor magnet fields all overlap severely bleeding into one big magnet get it right and your machine will be the best one
Each magnet should have it's own life and sphere of operation with no outside influence. If your boys can stand 3 or 4 of those magnets on a table top the same spacing as the rotor and they don't move then I would say forget the sleeves.
But they can't without loosing a finger. So instead put a 1/4" of tape on one and push it close to it's position spacing on the rotor and watch it flip over at 2"Last edited by BroMikey; 09-11-2022, 06:01 PM.
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The old machine had no sleeves on the magnets on the rotor or the opposition magnets and I never had a problem. I will see what they say after they get finished testing. Testing BEFORE sleeves are put in will allow for a comparison without and with sleeves, if that is what we decide to do. Haven't heard anything. Was out of town all day and got home late.
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Run 20-30 watts and keep its own batteries charged for a really long time. Months. At least that's the plan. I'm sure I will hear about it if it doesn't work.[/QUOTE]
Gotta give it a shot even if it is hard to grasp the cry babies will always want a demo
Edit ps tell those guys to machine sleeves for the opposition magnets as well.. .045 or even. 030 ...maybe they just heard me. They don't need to be thick, even metal foil will help, cheap mild steel is the best shield
The thin piece of plastic between 1 inch magnets should work with a flexible rotor. Machining thin sleeves takes an expert.
They did a great job on core materialLast edited by BroMikey; 09-10-2022, 07:58 PM.
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Originally posted by Turion View PostI am working on a Tesla Switch setup right now. I took down the one I posted the picture of the other day to try something I think will work a little better. It will tie up all my LiPo batteries, so I hope it is worth it. It will take at LEAST a week as I ordered the wrong parts, had to order the right ones and send those back. It should run a 20 to 30 watt load, and I am just going to turn it on and let it run and give you guys an update from time to time. 72 Amp hours of batteries. Say 20 watts of load at 12 volts should drain the batteries in around 2 days of constant running. So simple experiment to run. It could be run by rotating the mechanical switch every 20 minutes, but I have better things to do, so will run it off of an Arduino powered from the wall. Cheating, I know, but I don't really care. I'm not saying it won't ever run down, but if it goes long enough, you gotta agree that SOMETHING is going on. That's about all it will do. Run 20-30 watts and keep its own batteries charged for a really long time. Months. At least that's the plan. I'm sure I will hear about it if it doesn't work.
If I need a transformer, I've found a 5" x 2.5" toroid buried under 12 years of experiments that I could use.
Arduino is ready to use also. I want to just text the basic setup for now. Don't have the mechanical switch built.
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I am working on a Tesla Switch setup right now. I took down the one I posted the picture of the other day to try something I think will work a little better. It will tie up all my LiPo batteries, so I hope it is worth it. It will take at LEAST a week as I ordered the wrong parts, had to order the right ones and send those back. It should run a 20 to 30 watt load, and I am just going to turn it on and let it run and give you guys an update from time to time. 72 Amp hours of batteries. Say 20 watts of load at 12 volts should drain the batteries in around 2 days of constant running. So simple experiment to run. It could be run by rotating the mechanical switch every 20 minutes, but I have better things to do, so will run it off of an Arduino powered from the wall. Cheating, I know, but I don't really care. I'm not saying it won't ever run down, but if it goes long enough, you gotta agree that SOMETHING is going on. That's about all it will do. Run 20-30 watts and keep its own batteries charged for a really long time. Months. At least that's the plan. I'm sure I will hear about it if it doesn't work.Last edited by Turion; 09-10-2022, 09:17 AM.
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Yes Alex so true. Turion has seen more than 20 X Cop in speculation. The T switch is COP 1
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Originally posted by Turion View PostThe old machine is running and they tested old coils today. They got the exact output we expected. But those are the coils that heat up. Still, we are using that as a baseline. I'll post video when I get it from them.
How good and what good news, he has invested a lot of time in the project of that machine, successes
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Originally posted by Turion View PostThe old machine is running and they tested old coils today. They got the exact output we expected. But those are the coils that heat up.
He will just run in circles and cry. kinda like me when something I built doesn't work right. I feel his pain.
So sorry for your little friend
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vnzGfo3AJtM
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The old machine is running and they tested old coils today. They got the exact output we expected. But those are the coils that heat up. Still, we are using that as a baseline. I'll post video when I get it from them.
This dog won't go away and come back, and we have a fenced in yard, and we have a dog door with a ramp out to the yard, but he can't get through the dog door. He will just run in circles and cry. kinda like me when something I built doesn't work right. I feel his pain.
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Originally posted by Turion View PostHad a call with the guys. They have the old machine back
What did they say on the old machine, could they get any output? Or is that a myth?
He will be fine just make a trap door and let him go away and come back on his own. but you need a fenced in yardLast edited by BroMikey; 09-08-2022, 04:34 AM.
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Had a call with the guys. They have the old machine back together and are finishing up the new one tomorrow. Will start sending me video of the testing tomorrow.
I have been working on electrical circuits that implement the 3 Battery System and Tesla Switch principles in a more "creative" way. Have all kinds of parts on order, so every day is like Christmas.
We made the decision not to take our doggy in on Friday. I don't have the heart for it. He still loves to eat and runs to the bowl, so I will continue to take the night shift for the foreseeable future. This is what he does all night, except when he is asleep, which is never more than an hour at a time.
https://youtu.be/ZNU9C9OTEaE
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Originally posted by Turion View PostAs I have said MANY times. The best you will do with the Tesla Switch is break even or LOOOONG run times.
The mechanical switch should just be rotated every 15-20 minutes, not run high speed.
All your gains, if you get any, with the Tesla Switch, will come from the LOAD. A motor turning a generator. A transformer outputting power from the secondary. Or a boost module, or a buck module.
If you're going to use LiPo batteries, you might want to read this. The will handle extremely high CURRENT pulses, but do not handle high VOLTAGE pulses. Grab that cap and or buck module.
file:///Users/davidbowling/Downloads/energies-11-02162.pdf
I just want to get on same page and use either my lithium (probably not) or LAB batteries to get to same experiments. I've not purchased anything to build the manual turning switch yet.
My apologies, I need to go back and re-read the last few post.
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As I have said MANY times. The best you will do with the Tesla Switch is break even or LOOOONG run times.
The mechanical switch should just be rotated every 15-20 minutes, not run high speed.
All your gains, if you get any, with the Tesla Switch, will come from the LOAD. A motor turning a generator. A transformer outputting power from the secondary. Or a boost module, or a buck module.
If you're going to use LiPo batteries, you might want to read this. The will handle extremely high CURRENT pulses, but do not handle high VOLTAGE pulses. Grab that cap and or buck module.
file:///Users/davidbowling/Downloads/energies-11-02162.pdfLast edited by Turion; 09-07-2022, 10:12 AM.
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