Motor Generators

[Turion]

On the mechanical version, do you make grooves to glue your copper stripes?Or how are they attached even after they are all chopped in segments?

GLUE. like I SAID in the video.

What approx Dia of wooden dowel and is the distance around the circle mean anything?

You need about 4" minimum around the outside. That's a pretty BIG dowel, and you couldn't put the wires "inside because it is not hollow. That's why I SAID use PVC pipe with caps on both ends. I NEVER said wooden dowel. Perhaps you need to watch the video again and listen. I made an even MORE detailed explanation in the first video than I did when I remade it.

Glue some foil on a toilet paper roll. Incomplete info as usual. AFTer I build it you will simply say "not like that"[/QUOTE]

Did I say toilet paper roll?
No. I CLEARLY said a piece of 4" or 6" diameter PVC pipe with END CAPS. Last time I used 6" PVC pipe and I have both 6" and 4" but this time I am building with 4" diameter because the end caps for the 6" pipe are ridiculous in price now.

I CLEARLY said drill a hole in the center of both end caps to put a shaft through and attach the cap to both the shaft and the pipe. This couldn't be more simple.

AFTer I build it you will simply say "not like that

Yes, I will, because YOU don't pay attention when you watch the video in the first place, or you wouldn't ask questions about "wooden dowels" or bring up toilet paper rolls.

You can drill a hole through the center of both end caps to put a piece of all thread through to act as a shaft. That is what I did. Then I put a nut on both sides of ONE of the end caps and tightened it up with all-thread on the threads BEFORE I glued that cap onto the pipe. I made SURE I had enough all thread sticking out to go all the way through the pipe and out the cap on the other side. Now when I turned the all thread, the whole pipe turned. The other end cap I did NOT glue on to give me access to the wires. This time I may just glue the PVC on a shaft. WHY? because all-thread does not fit tightly in my bearings. I use skate board bearings, and you can find shafts that will fit them at Lowes or Home depot. The caps can just be GLUED onto the shaft because there is no torque or resistance (to speak of) that would break the cap free of the shaft once they are glued together.

I CLEARLY said the wires would all be INSIDE the pipe. How you attach the strips on the outside is up to you. I simply glue them on with epoxy. BUT, between the pieces of copper I glue little pieces of plastic that are the SAME HEIGHT as my copper. What I actually did is cut my pieces of copper about 3/4" longer than I wanted them, then bend 3/8 at each end at a 90 degree angle. I drilled a small hole in this bent piece to put my wire into and solder it in place. I drilled holes in the EXACT place that I want the copper to go and the bent end with the wire soldered on ends fit into the holes and is epoxied in place. I drill both holes just a bit bigger than the copper because I want to be able to adjust it so that all the pieces align, and so that the wire will feed in easily.

With transistors, you have to make sure that the ones on each side turn on at EXACTLY the same time, which is why you need optocouplers. With this setup that is not critical. I can put the glue on one end of the copper that is going into the hole, then put my square across the pipe and push the pieces of copper against the square. I glue one end in place (the end with the wire) and let it dry before doing anything else. They make a super glue that is more like a gel than a liquid, and that is what I used so it would fill in the hole around the copper. without dripping inside the tube too much. That's as detailed as I am going to get. Probably NOBODY will use the same size copper as I use, so every build will be different.

Here is the copper I am using: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HHCT46A...roduct_details
It's a little more than 1/8 of an inch wide. That means I really only need enough PVC pipe to hold the two end caps, because when you push them together, you have enough length to put 12 of the 1/8 inch strips with space between them. This is NOT the copper I used last time, but I have no more of that. It was 1/2" wide strip, but this will make contact too. That's all I need.

[BroMikey]

Thanks Dave, you are right I missed that video and now I get the whole physical layout with the wires inside plus keeping sections of stripes on the tube. I watched some videos where wood was used.

Is it better to have it machined so the brushes don't jump so bad or are we talking 100 rpm? Either way glad you are a fluent typist, it is so clear now except for the chart

[Turion]

To make it simple, think of it this way. There are five rows of copper strips. Spaced evenly around the pipe. With five batteries you need five rows. To use four batteries you need four rows. For 6 batteries, six rows.

The length of the strips depends on the diameter of the pipe. You want enough space between the rows that your "contactor" cannot touch two rows at the same time. As long as there is ENOUGH space, a little extra doesn't matter. There are 12 strips in each row. That's one for each terminal of each of your five batteries plus one at each end to connect to the two sides of the load.

Because you have only 4 batteries (8 connecting points) and 2 load connecting points NECESSARY in each row, two of the strips in each row WILL NOT BE USED, so I just leave them OFF. That means one battery is always disconnected. By changing what the wires inside the pipe connect to, you change which battery is disconnected. You also change which two are in series and which two are in parallel. That's all the wires do. The two load connecting points on the end of each row connect to the + of the two batteries in series, and the + of the two batteries in parallel. The other wires connect the two batteries in series and the two batteries in parallel. In each row, there are different connections that rotate all five batteries through those four positions plus one resting position.

You can fill in between the strips of copper with little pieces of plastic and epoxy and sand it down so there are no "bumps" as the contactors (brushes) move around in a circle. I don't think I would use brushes because that spring uses more force than I would like. If you remember the old slot cars that had contacts on the bottom to electrically connect them to the track, I use something that looks a lot like that. Its weight makes the connection, and you can even glue on a washer or a nut if you don't like how the connection is made.

EDIT: You could rotate this thing constantly, or every 20 minutes or so. I wouldn't run it at 1,000 rpm, but you can have it constantly rotating. How fast you spin it will kind of depend on how well the LOAD runs, since you are constantly breaking the contact with the load. Now a cap across the load will definitely assist in keeping constant current and voltage, but I would speed it up enough to keep the load running. The bigger the cap, the slower you can run it. But there is NO NEED to rotate it more than once every 20 minutes.

[BroMikey]

To make it simple, think of it this way. There are five rows of copper strips. Spaced evenly around the pipe. There are 12 strips in each row.

http://www.tuks.nl/pdf/MUELLER_EXPER...SLA_BEDINI.pdf

Here is my take on the P Kelly Tesla switch video where he state electrodyne used 3 disc's with 6 divisions of 60 degrees for a single disk. X 3 disks. Goes into great detail and caps by saying electrodyne got a 30hp motor running off their's and the batteries went from 12v to 36v with no Ill effects BUT if YOU BUILD IT DON|T EXPECT THOSE RESULTS.

More double speak. No two documents are the same. Dave, you have 12 divisions not 6 can you explain the discrepancy? First of all let me say P Kelly info is untrustworthy but there is no other.

[Turion]

The electrodyne setup used only FOUR batteries. They took two in parallel and put them in series and took two in series and put them in parallel. Each battery only alternated between TWO positions. Switching back and forth from the parallel position to the series position. That's a very simple setup, and I could create a rotary setup that did the same thing. It would be FAR simpler.

In my setup I have FIVE positions instead of four, because one battery is always resting. Also, each battery switches into EACH OF THE FIVE POSITIONS as I said, so it is a TRUE rotation. Each battery rotates through EVERY position (including one where it is resting) so that if there is a position that puts particular stress on a battery or a position where the battery receives a higher charge, EVERY battery gets its turn in that position.

But build whatever you want.

First of all let me say P Kelly info is untrustworthy but there is no other.

Not true. We have the original Tesla Switch document John Bedini posted on the forum that was based on the Ronald Brant Tesla Switch. We have John's statements about how the transistors worked and what kind of transistors to use and WHY. About WHY it needs diodes in specific places, and lots of other details. It's all in the "Use for the Tesla Switch" thread. I know because I have read it MANY TIMES. If you had bothered to read the whole thing, you would know it too.

But ALL those things apply to ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT SWITCHING, not mechanical. Mechanical is simple. You pay to turn the thing. All the connections are mechanical. You don't need diodes to do special things. You don't need transistors to do special things. I have seen working ELECTRICAL Tesla Switches running on the bench. I don't claim they will NEVER run down. But they will run for MONTHS. NONE of them ran a load that generates power, so if you do THAT...well, you figure it out. I believe mechanical will be even MORE efficient, especially with modern batteries. Plus no voltage loss across multiple diodes and transistors. Time will tell.

I haven't been able to do much of anything on this because I am still waiting for my copper, and the situation with my dog is keeping me up all night every night (as evidenced by my posting this at 1:30 AM) so ONE of us can sleep, but we have an appointment with the vet next Friday that I am not looking forward to. Maybe I will be able to sleep after that, but maybe not. I never really LIKED this dog, and he never liked me, but he is family. Losing family is always hard, even when they are annoying little rat dogs.

Oh, I forgot to mention the guys got both generators back from the machinist today, so they will begin testing. He sent me a very short video clip showing how smoothly the shaft in the old clunker is turning now, and I uploaded it to YouTube so you could see that we really ARE actively working on this. The crappy all-thread shaft that was squared off on one end so the socket wrench end of a standard 5/8 "socket" would fit over it and the other end of the socket would fit over a nut on the motor shaft was replaced with a new solid shaft with a coupler connecting it to the motor. So will be much quieter. It is up to THEM to test the coils, but I know thy have been awful anxious to get this back, so I expect they will get after it, especially since it is a weekend. At least I HOPE so.

https://youtube.com/shorts/yUaw3qnKjJc?feature=share

See the time BELOW? LOL

[BroMikey]

Do you think it will be time to put the doggy to sleep? The Vet might say that.


I am not following a person. I am trying to understand the differences and have just now done that. Question answered. The system you have learned to construct allows for a rest period and Electrodyne did not?

[Turion]

Do you think it will be time to put the doggy to sleep? The Vet might say that.

I am not following a person. I am trying to understand the differences and have just now done that. Question answered. The system you have learned to construct allows for a rest period and Electrodyne did not?

Electrodyne did not. Just a four battery switch like John demonstrated at the Tesla Symposium.

Mine does, as I have stated:

On the bottom of this schematic are five batteries, but only FOUR are connected at the same time.

Because you have only 4 batteries (8 connecting points) and 2 load connecting points NECESSARY in each row, two of the strips in each row WILL NOT BE USED, so I just leave them OFF. That means one battery is always disconnected. By changing what the wires inside the pipe connect to, you change which battery is disconnected.

In my setup I have FIVE positions instead of four, because one battery is always resting. Also, each battery switches into EACH OF THE FIVE POSITIONS as I said, so it is a TRUE rotation. Each battery rotates through EVERY position (including one where it is resting) so that if there is a position that puts particular stress on a battery or a position where the battery receives a higher charge, EVERY battery gets its turn in that position.

So yeah, there is some major differences between the two systems.

The guys ARE testing the generator today! Just texted me.

Yeah, my dog will NOT be coming home from the vet on Friday. It's a one way trip. He was always my wife's dog and growled and snapped at me, but since I have been taking care of him, we have bonded. GREAT time for that to happen. Because of dementia, he can't walk in anything but circles. So carry him to get a drink. Carry him to his bowl at dinner time. Carry him outside to the bathroom. Oh, and he is incontinent, so is wearing a diaper at all times, and those have to be changed about every 30 minutes or he starts crying and no one can sleep. Hence the staying up all night while my wife sleeps. It is worse than having a baby, and I'm too old to have babies.

[BroMikey]

The guys ARE testing the generator today! Just texted
growled and snapped at me
. Carry him to his bowl at dinner time. Carry him outside to the bathroom. Oh, It is worse than having a baby, and I'm too old to have babies. [/QUOTE]

I heard 100hz minimum and 800hz would be dangerous, whatever that means. Oh and save all your ions for a rainy delay


https://images.app.goo.gl/mqoZa8UGfgMMy7Aq6

Too old 4 babies? that diaper on a dog is Killen me .

[BroMikey]

So are you trying to tell me the rest period of 1 micro second is like running the 3 battery generating and letting 1 battery rest to collect more charge? Via ions pointing in that direction? Stress on the batteries, what?

[Turion]

No. I originally designed this mechanical switch to rotate batteries by manually turning it every 15-20 minutes depending on the load. If you want to run it with an electric motor at high speed, it is probably NO BETTER than a four battery switch. But it can be used for BOTH a manual (giving you that off time advantage) or electrical. Or you can figure out a way to rotate it 1/5 of a turn electrically every 10-15 minutes and have both.

https://www.amazon.com/Hicarer-Torqu...%2C218&sr=8-54

Rotate the device with something like this and with a four battery switch, it would change the connections 4 times in an hour

[BroMikey]

No. I originally designed this mechanical switch to rotate batteries by manually turning it every 15-20 minutes depending on the load. If you want to run it with an electric motor at high speed, it is probably NO BETTER than a four battery switch. But it can be used for BOTH a manual (giving you that off time advantage) or electrical. Or you can figure out a way to rotate it 1/5 of a turn electrically every 10-15 minutes and have both.

https://www.amazon.com/Hicarer-Torqu...%2C218&sr=8-54

Rotate the device with something like this and with a four battery switch, it would change the connections 4 times in an hour

huh? What about a 555 timer and relay? Is that a joke? I guess I deserve it after all the times I messed with your head. put it right by the all thread, I got it

Check this out! https://a.co/d/i04tZBd

Those guys went to see family that are working on the motor gens

[Turion]

Does a 555 timer and a relay get you exactly 1/4 of a turn rotation? It turns on the power for a specific amount of time, but is that enough? Or too little. Or you could find a means of powering the motor so slowly that there is a lot of time between sections. The only problem with ANY of these mechanical methods, other than rotating it by hand is you want it to stay in one position for a long time, then QUICKLY turn to the next position in rotation, ACCURATELY

Right now I need to switch at 60 Hz. The machine switches 5 times per rotation. That would require12 rotations per second. Or 720 rpm. That's so fast it will probably heat up my contacts in just a few minutes. Twice the diameter of the pipe would cut the RPM in half, so thinking about ALL of this as I wait for parts.

[BroMikey]

Does a 555 timer and a relay get you exactly 1/4 of a turn rotation?

Right now I need to switch at 60 Hz. The machine switches 5 times per rotation.

That would require12 rotations per second. Or 720 rpm.

That's so fast it will probably heat up my contacts in just a few minutes.

Twice the diameter of the pipe would cut the RPM in half, so thinking about ALL of this as I wait for parts.

100hz minimum

Another mechanical feat. I hope you can achieve your goal. 60hz with an 8" dia rotor will require machining most likely. 720 rpm is fast. Many fan motors I have worked operate at 1000 rpm and the rotor is under 3" dia. At times fans for these motors get bend and it becomes difficult to rebalance at these speeds.

Stay at 300 rpm or under, otherwise you may need to buy 3/16" thick copper strips so after you will have enough meat when turning down your rotor but you will still need to balance your rotor due to irregular wiring patterns on the inside of the tube

[wantomake]

I don't understand most of the inner workings of these experiments. But I need a little clarity.

Are we trying to build this setup to harvest energy from the aether by creating "sparks" from the fast spinning mechanical switching? Which will create sparking or arching when the copper contacts do switching at 720 rpms. Especially if you are using high amp hour batteries.

Or, are we only using the energy stored in the batteries to get longer run times until they run down. Or are we going to produce negative ions as someone pointed out before that happens if you battery switch at peco -second speeds.

I'm not being negative or counter productive. The 3BGS with five batteries. The Tesla or Carlos Benitez four battery switch.

I understand the switching, the five batteries, the use of the transformer, the correct type of load. Just what type of build is this?

Energy harvesting from the aether or extended battery runs.

Just being honest. What are we trying to build is all I'm asking. Or maybe I'm just not here and forgot.

[BroMikey]

I don't understand most of the inner workings of these experiments. But I need a little clarity. Just what type of build is this?

Energy harvesting from the aether or extended battery runs.

Just being honest. What are we trying to build is all I'm asking. Or maybe I'm just not here and forgot.

It is free energy tesla switch four five six battery limitless never ending save the planet stream. Catch that wave and ride. You want more BS? Just stay tuned 12v batteries jump to 36v with no Ill effects other than ice sickles from the cold electric. Batteries charge in under 1 minute and give more than their rated WH. Here is how you get the magic battery. P Kelly fantasies

Don't forget to reverse bias your diodes and "whala" in a few weeks you'll have cold crude but you can never turn it off or it will turn into a pumpkin
Sorry wanto I am only joking but that is what it feels like listening to P Kelly

Cold Lectric