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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Not likely even before I run this. John Bedini told us it works and his word is gold

    Leave a comment:


  • Turion
    replied
    Two questions:
    What kind of batteries are these. Lithium iron phosphate, Lithium iron, or what?
    What kind of light is that and how many watts is it rated for.
    Sounds to me like you are having all kinds of fun!

    Now that you have seen it working on your bench in front of you, how likely is it that you will let anyone, even those who quote experts, tell you that it doesn’t work and cannot work?

    But the best part is that these principles apply to far, FAR more than this simple proof of concept setup.

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Second day run #3

    Run pack start at 23v see picture for 1+hrs into run. See the battery 3 charge right up. Last run took 4WH to charge it yet having started with no more than 10-12 WH this system (with meter losses) has toasted over 15WH plus recirculated 25 WH and it ain't over yet. Not even close.

    Dave wanted to see my light.

    Last edited by BroMikey; 08-01-2022, 07:25 PM.

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  • Turion
    replied
    Originally posted by wantomake View Post

    Turion,
    Still searching for ceramic bearings for the motor I have.
    MY-1016-B
    The front bearing is:
    ID 10mms OD 25mm

    The back bearing is:
    ID 6mm OD 20mm
    Been searching for long time daily. Any particular company besides Amazon? Or maybe I have the wrong motor? Lol for sure!!

    I've a very good micrometer in the shop and even used my desk mounted magnifying glass with lights.

    There's no hurry, but when I'm ready I'll purchase some. Are all the motors different shaft bearing sizes?
    All mine have an 8mm shaft except the MY1020. I never had to look for other sizes of bearings, so not much help. I will try to look and see if I can find some somewhere.

    Leave a comment:


  • Turion
    replied
    Originally posted by BroMikey View Post


    if this is actually the setup you are running and the boost module is located where you show a “UPS”’ in the schematic, my first thought was “I have no idea how that would provide ANY extra energy to the setup.” According to this schematic all you are doing is putting the UPS in series with the charge battery so the energy from the primary goes through both. Yes, the battery should charge, but NO additional energy is brought into the circuit because the output of the boost is being “used up” by the load. It is not being sent “through” the load to the charge battery.

    HoweverI thought about it ALL NIGHT and couldn’t sleep! I realized that since the GROUND on the boost module is a THROUGH connection. (- in is connected to - out) the positive out of the boost module is going through the load and to the - out of the boost module (which is coupled with the - in) and the - in is going to the + of the charge battery. So you are actually running the load between the output of the boost and the positive of the charge battery also, and it is working without the two diodes I recommended, or they exist inside the boost module.

    I am not sure you could run it this way with other boost modules, but now that I understand what is going on, I see why it is possible to get the results you are getting. I thought the output to the load was being WASTED in this schematic, so I could NOT understand your positive results. It is NOT wasted. But be aware that it might not work this way with EVERY boost module. They are not all the same circuit, so a missing diode or one in the wrong place could prevent this from happening.

    Leave a comment:


  • wantomake
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion View Post
    Here’s why high speed ceramic bearings. 8mm
    https://youtu.be/tpsBx4Cy7fo


    You can buy a new car for the cost of some of these bearings
    https://www.amazon.com/s?k=8mm+ceram...41&ref=sr_pg_2
    Turion,
    Still searching for ceramic bearings for the motor I have.
    MY-1016-B
    The front bearing is:
    ID 10mms OD 25mm

    The back bearing is:
    ID 6mm OD 20mm
    Been searching for long time daily. Any particular company besides Amazon? Or maybe I have the wrong motor? Lol for sure!!

    I've a very good micrometer in the shop and even used my desk mounted magnifying glass with lights.

    There's no hurry, but when I'm ready I'll purchase some. Are all the motors different shaft bearing sizes?

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Day two run 3
    Last edited by BroMikey; 08-01-2022, 07:17 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Last picture. Had to stop the charge battery is full again and the run batteries have 40% left in them. Going to bed, nite

    Edit add 3WH to the 9WH to cover the idling energy burning over a 5 plus hr run. Each pack only runs 3 hrs max by itself delivering 6 WH

    Last edited by BroMikey; 08-01-2022, 07:13 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion View Post
    If 100 watts goes THROUGH the primary side of the inverter that is 85% efficient (to the charge battery) the secondary "generates" 85 watts. You only have to "recover" 15 watts of the 100 you put in to get a COP>1. You may be recovering MORE than that, plus your inverter may be better than 85% efficient. The gains have always been there if people would just BUILD it and look. The more efficient the boost module, the higher the gains, because the MORE you recover and the MORE you generate.
    Yes yes I agree if they just had time. Look at this picture. 2 hrs in on the 2nd run gonna be 40why before I get done. Charge battery is almost done.

    Leave a comment:


  • Turion
    replied
    If 100 watts goes THROUGH the primary side of the inverter that is 85% efficient (to the charge battery) the secondary "generates" 85 watts. You only have to "recover" 15 watts of the 100 you put in to get a COP>1. You may be recovering MORE than that, plus your inverter may be better than 85% efficient. The gains have always been there if people would just BUILD it and look. The more efficient the boost module, the higher the gains, because the MORE you recover and the MORE you generate.
    Last edited by Turion; 08-01-2022, 06:21 AM.

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion View Post
    You need to wait and see if battery 3 holds voltage after you quit all your testing and after it has rested, and where your primary pack ends up. Once battery 3 is FULL, you are wasting energy if you keep trying to charge it. If you then rotate your batteries, you should be good to keep it going.
    Yes of course. I waited 4 hrs. Here is the rotated packs running again and BTW I am over 18 WH as of 1:00am Each pack only took 5-6wh charging and no more than 6 WH straight discharge yet I have more. It will never go dead like this. See the bowl in the back ground?

    I have already burned up going on 10 WH. WTH is going on? I'll be up for days. The run pack is at 22.45v as of 18 WH

    Leave a comment:


  • Turion
    replied
    You need to wait and see if battery 3 holds voltage after you quit all your testing and after it has rested, and where your primary pack ends up. Once battery 3 is FULL, you are wasting energy if you keep trying to charge it. If you then rotate your batteries, you should be good to keep it going.
    Last edited by Turion; 08-01-2022, 05:44 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion View Post
    What is your circuit for this video? You keep talking about an inverter in the first video. I see what looks like a boost module, but NO inverter, and it sounds like you are running the light off the boost module, so there is still no pulse going to the batteries as far as I can tell. In the second video I see no light, so is it still there? Not knowing exactly what the circuit is makes it hard to know. Anyway, have fun! You always learn something when you start running experiments. Li batteries aren't supposed to be discharged that low, are they? So it will be interesting to see how it responds after that kind of discharge. Started at 9 volts???
    9.6v and it is tanked. Yes I keep saying X number of ah but I mean WH not AH then yes I say inverter when I mean converter.

    The thing is still running and yes I have a bowl over the big light but don't forget all 3 back lights for the watt meter panels plus all 3 watt meter circuits are burning power plus the bright lights and digital readout lights on the inverter plus the inverter internal circuit. That is a bunch and it looks like I may get another 6 WH before I switch? I am having fun Dave thanks. I'll post the circuit.

    Oops the charge battery has a cap. Remember these li ion batteries run from 11v-10v the entire run and then bottom out in 3 minutes.

    The new run shows over 14WH and the run pack is still 22.65v. That is amazing. I have never seen battery 3 charge right up till today.

    Last edited by BroMikey; 08-01-2022, 05:25 AM.

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  • Turion
    replied
    What is your circuit for this video? You keep talking about an inverter in the first video. I see what looks like a boost module, but NO inverter, and it sounds like you are running the light off the boost module, so there is still no pulse going to the batteries as far as I can tell. In the second video I see no light, so is it still there? Not knowing exactly what the circuit is makes it hard to know. Anyway, have fun! You always learn something when you start running experiments. Li batteries aren't supposed to be discharged that low, are they? So it will be interesting to see how it responds after that kind of discharge. Started at 9 volts???
    Last edited by Turion; 08-01-2022, 05:07 AM.

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    More coming. Cap is 50vdc 2200uf. Four hours later I have started test run 2 due to excess energy still in pack 2. Pack 3 is charged at 12v and pack 2 is over 11v. Battery 1 is dead.

    This video is in the middle of the first test run BRB

    Leave a comment:

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