Motor Generators

[BroMikey]

It’s out of my hands now. I gave it to those guys to finish up. I have too many other things I need to work on.

So you gave up on your big machine more magnets and other core material blew your mind.

Bye is going to say he has been right all along. To much cement work to be able to finish the project before conference. And you called Bye a coward 5 years plus

[Turion]

It’s out of my hands now. I gave it to those guys to finish up. I have too many other things I need to work on.

The Matt motor allowed you to charge a coil and discharge it (SPIKE) in the direction of least resistance (charge battery)

Here is a simple way to discharge a coil through a spark gap using a magnet and a set of auto points. Gave 10 coils, use 10 points. One timing rotor set to the correct rpm.

https://youtu.be/lyqIeZ6MP5o

[BroMikey]

I originally ran my generator 10 1/2” rotor with 24 3/4” magnets and two coils

Interestingly, the 20 magnet rotor was showing a coil output of 96 volts (new coils) from a coil PAIR. which is two coils in parallel. That 96 volts would be roughly 75%, so not out of line with my testing (except I had 20 magnets on the rotor,

So I replaced the 300 watt bulb with a 100 watt bulb connected directly to the coil. But only ONE coil because I didn't want to risk blowing the bulb. The bulb lit up and it measured 34 volts across the bulb, and 75 volts across the unloaded coil. I expected it to measure 150 across the unloaded coil since that is what I got across the TWO coils in parallel yesterday, unloaded. So I connected the second coil to the load, screwed the bulb in, and it lit up. I measured 64 volts across the load. This is FAR less than we got using the SAME coil on the old clunker with only 12 magnets instead of the 24 the new rotor has, so I am at a loss. I called my guys who did the testing on all the coils and they confirmed that they were getting over 300 volts open voltage from these coils on the old machine at 2800 RPM and over 120 volts across the load. He was at work, so is going to check his notes when he gets home at 5:00 and call me back. Output IS what it IS unless something is wrong with BOTH the coils


So my partner in Sacramento tested the output of the two coils both loaded and unloaded. Unloaded they put out around 300 volts, but loaded, one coil put out 85 volts (2820 RPM) and the other one put out about 90 volts (2835 RPM) at about .6 amps each. There was about a 15 RPM difference between what he ran the two coils at, so that could account for the difference in volts out.

So even with twice the magnets on the rotor at around the same RPM (he ran at 2820-2835 and I was running at 2800) I am only getting 6 volts MORE. Around 96 volts...IF my coils are all the way in now, and I am beginning to believe they ARE.

WHY he told me these coils would put out around 120 volts, I will never know, but obviously they do NOT. Maybe it was just the test equipment he was using at the time. Right now we are using the same meters and same RPM gauge so there is no disparity. What there IS appears to be DISAPPOINTING results.

If I remember correctly the old coils were not only putting out voltage, they were putting out amps (1.5a)each. The new coils are reduced to .5amps? each. That is far less than 74%

96v X .2- .5 is 48 watts while the old coils were 130v X 1.5a = 195w that is just a tiny ou? maybe, break even.

[BroMikey]

I originally ran my generator 10 1/2” rotor with 24 3/4” magnets and two coils

When you hooked it up right to a conventional motor what voltage did it produce with no shielding? Must have been pretty bad.

That is 24 magnets with less than 1/2" spaces inbetween with no shield.

[Turion]

Hey wanto it is a 10" saw blade with 20 1/2 by 1" magnets and it ran on 1 coil off the generator burning out. This tiny mtr just doesn't have enough to run 2 amps better stay at 5-6"

I originally ran my generator 10 1/2” rotor with 24 3/4” magnets and two coils in place with this tiny motor. I had to spin the rotor by hand to start it up or the amp draw would eat the motor up. Burned up several before I figured it out. Then went to the MY1020. Still using that one. NONE of these small motors are meant to handle the start up amps required to get a rotor spinning, especially if you have more than one or two coils.

[BroMikey]

Yes I agree, glad you said that, still I wanto try it again, I just got to busy. Have a good trip and that is great news with the old recreation. Also there is nothing to compare with a machined shaft and hub. Glad you got help, that's a lot of paceo"s

[Turion]

But the secondary of the boost module provides you with an ADDITIONAL 80 watts that can hit the battery.
okay so I need an isolated battery charger for that at 80%=60w not 80w
So you hit the battery with TWO sources of 80 watts, Without a source of generation, you do not break even here.
I never heard it like that before
Hence the Matt motor, Bro, you don't believe it will work,
I have never had an unmod mtr in the circuit so you are talking fantasy like running your house on one. This is earth. You are far to defensive. Yes you are correct I can't learn from you after 10 years, we are past that. I know you mean well.

Do you even have what you need to measure whether or not you are successful?
evidentially not, I only follow your suggestions plus lead batteries are hard to charge and I have never found a 99% eff device such as a charger or booster. Maybe if I had lipo batteries I could try again. I know it will eventually break even after spending thousands. Then the next level another few thousand and i would be OU cop1.5? Who knows.

Bro,
Just to be clear, I was sharing to help wantomake with improving a system he ALREADY HAS RUNNING. I would NOT recommend anyone start NOW building that system. Ten years ago, when we were just figuring this stuff out, we brought it to the forum to get other people involved because we figured the more minds, the more creative ideas. What a waste of time THAT was, because very FEW actually did the work, and most just got mad and said it doesn't work. Yeah, we wasted some money and we led other people to waste some money, but that's what you DO when you are on the cutting edge of research. You make mistakes. Not everything works. But the principles we were sharing were ABSOLUTELY CORRECT. You just don't always get positive results for a variety of reasons we NOW understand. (Like turning the motor at the correct rpm to produce the frequency the battery DEMANDS, which is critical.) We didn't KNOW that back then. We got LUCKY. Not everyone did. What's worse, we didn't know WHY we were lucky, and there is no way to TEACH Lucky. When you stumble on something that works, all you can say is it works. What I LEARNED from all that was invaluable! Wouldn't trade it for ANYTHING. Never stopped once I saw what was possible. Kept looking for NEW ways to apply the principles that WORKED. STILL working with those concepts which is why I say my big generator is obsolete, and a WASTE of my time and money. But I will still complete that project.

Not everything works out. That doesn't mean the guiding principles were wrong. NOW, ten years later, I would never recommend ANYONE incur the expense of buying a razor scooter motor ($30.00) replace the bearings ($8.00) rewind it ($10.00 worth of wire and a whole lot of time.) Because now we know WHAT the modified Matt motor brings to the table. Were you paying attention? I have said it a NUMBER of times in the last few pages of posting. If you can't figure out a way to do it more PRECISELY and much CHEAPER, you need to take up a much different hobby. If you have no idea what I am talking about it is because you haven't done the bench work and have paid NO ATTENTION to what I have posted the last couple days.

By the way, my partners picked the NEW generator and the OLD generator up today. Taking it to the city where they will fine tune it and FINALLY have it tested. They want to get the old one up and running also. Having a new shaft made and new bearings. I am going to go on vacation to see my kids and grandkids, and they can deal with it for a while.

[BroMikey]

My lead acid nightmare's are over

[BroMikey]

Batteries

[BroMikey]

Tesla's motor generator explained

[BroMikey]

Sav teaching his latest design of motor genny

sure is pretty work, everything machined

[BroMikey]

This fella saw my video and was inspired to do some MadMack work 3 weeks ago

He needs shielding at the sticky point.

[BroMikey]

Motor than one way to get the extra

[BroMikey]

Here is a mini lenz free double coils like Dave's configuration. Interesting. Last year

[BroMikey]

Turion,
I made a video per our conversation and the Matt motor still heats up.

Check it out if you get the time and appreciate any advice.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0I9CXQ3phhQ

.

I think I didn't use the right wire. Mine was 20awg and only 1 strand rating 1.9amp max oops. You you used 23awg? x 3? = 2.2 amps
see chart. Or did you use 21awg?

https://i.stack.imgur.com/QqXFg.png