Motor Generators

[BroMikey]

Sav new motor Gen (Lenz free inside)

[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SQgUaaDs6x8[/VIDEO]

[Turion]

Coils wound in parallel and connected in series
https://youtu.be/5CltBOd1h-4

[BroMikey]

Coils wound in parallel and connected in series
https://youtu.be/5CltBOd1h-4

Thats right do simple vid's with basic hands on, this will get everyone jumping in with both hands and feet.

[BobFrench]

Hello Mikey,

Thanks for your comments. I seriously doubt that the frequency is 250Hz, but maybe 4Hz (250 per minute, but not per second) of maybe double that because it fires twice every full cycle. A free swinging pendulum may have added energy because of gravity, but now that I am limiting the rise and fall of the end of the arm it seems to me that the force (push) of the coil is added each time and captured in the rubber bands and thrown back into the action. This accumulates up to its maximum and maintains a constant speed of the arm and thus the frequency.

As for charging too fast, I think I'm a ways away from that, but that's just an opinion. From what I have read in conventional pulse battery charger info they say that the battery wants something like 24kHz...but I don't know. I know that the pendulum will never approach that.

I have another video link of even faster action that I am trying to post, but with this new system I'm having difficulty. It says that I need a valid link, but the one I have works...I've tested it. (?)

Thanks again for your interest. I'm sorry for not responding sooner...just been busy and I don't check the forum everyday (not yet anyway).

Take care,

Bob

[BobFrench]

Hello,

Here's the latest pendulum video. It is running much faster and charging better. In the video I was wrong about the input. Now it is using about 200mA and the voltage has dropped to 37-38 volts. The charge is up to 13.21v now. It has risen .05v in an hour and 10 minutes. I don't think that is excessive charging. What do you guys think?

I just added the link successfully. It's about a minute and a half long. I was doing something wrong...I don't know what or why because this time it seemed so easy.

This year has been good so far and I hope that it continues this way.

Take care,

Bob

[BobFrench]

Points Motor

Here's a little something else.

I have always wanted to find mechanical ways of doing technology and I came up with this Points Motor. It just works. There's no components to burn up and if it's not working, I can look around until I figure it out. It's completely mechanical.

I had developed the points years ago as a super efficient switch and trigger. It has very little drag on a rotor. Matt Jones had his Simple Motor that used points, but he didn't relieve the pressure on the points spring which caused a lot of drag, so I replace that with my points that operate by magnets.

I have attached a drawing of Matt's charging setup. It works well, but in my video I am only using it as a motor. The second set of points and the boost module are for a cap dump that is not powered or involved in the video. I will post the video as soon as I get off of here.

Take care,

Bob

[BobFrench]

Points Motor

OK guys, here's the video of the Points Motor.

Bob

[BroMikey]

Fun charging. I like your car points motor Bob. You could put 2 or 4 mirror tile all around your 15w panels and get a full amp even on a cloudy day.

[alexelectric]

well thanks for the scheme,
ok a mechanical motor system and recover to power the battery
The electronic system is the bedini and fulfills the same function.
thanks for sharing BobFrancés

[Turion]

Report so far:
All runs at 35.6 volts from power supply. Battery voltage varies but was between 36 and 38 volts. Batteries were very, very OLD.

Turning just the motor. 4200RPM at 1.3 amps on PS

Turning just the rotor 3800 RPM at 7.7 amps on PS

With 4 coils in place 3533 RPM at 12.53 amps on PS

Adjusted to cancel some magnetic drag.

With 6 coils in place 3443 RPM at 16.39 amps on Bat

With 12 coils in place the motor was unable to break the magnetic lock and start to turn, running on batteries where it could draw max amps.

After adjusting the magnets the motor was able to break the magnetic lock and drew 17 amps on Bat. Did not record the RPM as we are trying to tune it.

By the time we got that far it was 10:30 at night and I needed to get to the B&B I am staying at and check in before I had no place to sleep. Can’t work on this tomorrow, but will stop by the shop before heading home Monday and see if he got the amp draw down around 12 amps by adjusting it. We know it is possible since we have had it there before. If so, will test outputs. Already know the motor does Not slowdown under load but do not know how much the coils are outputting. Lots of time until July.

Won’t post my videos to YouTube and send Aaron the links until I get home Monday and can do iron WiFi so I don’t use up all my data.

As you will notice adding coils with iron cores DOES cause magnetic drag that slows down the motor and increases its amp draw. Even at speed. Duh! We started every test after four coils by getting the motor up to speed on the batteries (when possible) and then switching over to run on the output of the power supply which was rated at 13 amps and maxes at 15. In EVERY case the amp draw was so high that the power supply just shut down.

Oh, in case anyone is interested, with 12 coils in place and the magnets at the outer limit of their adjustment (which means they are having SOME effect, but not as much as when adjusted) the motor was pulling 42 amps and we burnt it up. So this series of tests was run with a different motor.

[BroMikey]

Report so far:
All runs at 35.6 volts from power supply. Battery voltage varies but was between 36 and 38 volts. Batteries were very, very OLD.

Turning just the motor. 4200RPM at 1.3 amps on PS

Turning just the rotor 3800 RPM at 7.7 amps on PS

With 4 coils in place 3533 RPM at 12.53 amps on PS

Adjusted to cancel some magnetic drag.

With 6 coils in place 3443 RPM at 16.39 amps on Bat

With 12 coils in place the motor was unable to break the magnetic lock and start to turn, running on batteries where it could draw max amps.

After adjusting the magnets the motor was able to break the magnetic lock and drew 17 amps on Bat. Did not record the RPM as we are trying to tune it.

By the time we got that far it was 10:30 at night and I needed to get to the B&B I am staying at and check in before I had no place to sleep. Can’t work on this tomorrow, but will stop by the shop before heading home Monday and see if he got the amp draw down around 12 amps by adjusting it. We know it is possible since we have had it there before. If so, will test outputs. Already know the motor does Not slowdown under load but do not know how much the coils are outputting. Lots of time until July.

Won’t post my videos to YouTube and send Aaron the links until I get home Monday and can do iron WiFi so I don’t use up all my data.

As you will notice adding coils with iron cores DOES cause magnetic drag that slows down the motor and increases its amp draw. Even at speed. Duh! We started every test after four coils by getting the motor up to speed on the batteries (when possible) and then switching over to run on the output of the power supply which was rated at 13 amps and maxes at 15. In EVERY case the amp draw was so high that the power supply just shut down.

Oh, in case anyone is interested, with 12 coils in place and the magnets at the outer limit of their adjustment (which means they are having SOME effect, but not as much as when adjusted) the motor was pulling 42 amps and we burnt it up. So this series of tests was run with a different motor.

Dad yum-it that is an excellent job ma-man. Duh? Of course iron cause drag on the rotor.
Should-a brought yer sleepin-bagNo really great news to hear of these very exciting developments. Can't wait to see her runnin. Oh and this is 35v X 17a = 595w input so even
like that before tuning this particular rig. Not bad when you consider 12 coils are producing. Even if each coil gave a reduced output of 150w X 12C = 1800watts not bad for openers. You'll git-her
down lower than that for drive and you are already COP 3X'er better.

[alexelectric]

Hello greetings

I present my progress of the generator, project of replica of the proposal of Dave.
For this construction I have used wood material, it is a prototype prior to construction
On the 11.5 "diameter rotor, use acrylic to hold on both sides the 6 magnets oriented in N-S 2" x 3/4, fastened with bronze screws to avoid magnetization.
I'm going to try a first coil.
Go it seems simple but it takes time and effort and dedication, for example in the rotor I think I need to give more space between the magnets to be able to put them in a single N-N orientation, since the rejection is very strong.
In the coil since I put the wires, I deduced that you can put better wiring.
And so details that are working for you, and I have to solve the details
I remember Dave when he shows how many rotors he made until he improved them, size, thickness, configuration of the magnets etc.
Really if one goes through many details, but it is gratifying to continue and achieve your goals.
For now I do not have it configured with the magnet of the magnetic attraction to the core, I will incorporate it, since the core attraction is very strong.
I hope to move forward I stopped this weekend, I was going to try it, but the engine coupling to the generator shaft is not very centered, I will have to rebuild another, is what I just need.
I send the images.

Already after this prototype, I want to build the 12-magnet, 12-coil Dave's generator.
I await your recommendations and opinions.
I hope that two generators are already in operation, Dave's and the other one that I am building.
Thanks to all who contribute and share their experiences and knowledge.

Note: I have difficulty incorporating the images I can show them

[Turion]

7009D386-85DD-4815-9CBC-95178B4BB387.jpeg EF53C5E9-178C-4F4C-9683-E651FE375B09.jpeg 744AAEE3-2B24-4E13-8CAE-01477464255D.jpeg Bro,
I need it at drawing only 12 amps and I will get it there. The lower the amp draw of the motor the higher the RPM and the greater the output. All my claims have been based on running on 24 volts at 2800 RPM with a six magnet rotor. I am running a 12 magnet rotor so there is a flywheel affect with the new, heavier rotor that actually has 48 magnets in it out at the rim. 12 on each side as generator magnets and 12 on each side as repulsion magnets. This is really apparent in one of the videos where I shut it off and it just runs forever winding down because the magnets passing the iron cores do NOT drag it to a stop. So cool to watch.

I will tell you right now that there are several design flaws in this version that make it difficult to tune, and if I pointed them out and told you what needs to be done to correct them you would say “Of course, that’s so simple. Why didn’t you DO that in the first place?” You have to understand that this version is SO much better than where we started!! The pictures are of versions 4-8

[alexelectric]

Thank you for the images
My replica is simple, from there I will build with the most suitable and durable materials.
The wooden frame of 19.6 "will serve me separately for other projects is the platform.
But I'm interested in building Dave's replica.
With the rotor that I show, I can operate three coils, without magnetic retention, three magnets as generators and the other three for the magnetic drag override, since the rotor has no greater area to place the canceling magnets on the periphery.
Another other way would be to make a larger rotor.
Since I saw Dave's project and the arguments and principles that support it, I told myself there is the theoretical, and well explained, besides Dave has practically shown his project.
As soon as I finish this one with 6 magnets, I start with the one with 12 magnets.
The important thing is to venture to build the projects, nothing has to be lost, but to learn either positive or negative results.

Here we continue on the roadmini_IMAG0920.jpg

[BobFrench]

Pendulum.

Hello guys,

Today I had some interesting things happen. The pendulum seems to increase its frequency and decrease the distance of the swing as the battery charges. I can't measure its frequency. I can only notice that it is more difficult to see the arm reversing. But It happens as the battery charges, so I'm thinking that as the battery charges its impedance lowers so that the charges can move faster through the system. But why would the swing get shorter? You'd think that if the energy through the system moved faster, then the coil would push the swing fast and make a longer swing. (?) Anybody got any ideas?

I wanted to say that I measured the amp draw in this condition and it was about 75-80mA. I had measured it at 200mA before, but it is back at the lower level now and is charging higher than ever. Ya don't need a bunch of amps to charge batteries or caps. Here's two short videos:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A3gz...ature=youtu.be (more descriptive, 13.35v)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IFKe...ature=youtu.be (faster, 13.51v)


Mikey, yeah, you are exactly right, no doubt about it. In TN, I lived off-grid and I had an 800W PV system that I used reflective panels on and it was great. As long as we don't concentrate sunlight with parabolic focus on a spot, the panels do well, no harm done. I had actual mirrors that I set on a smaller panel that worked well and I had bought it in '72 used. It's a favorite of mine.

Alexelectric, Thank you. The rotor is an old VCR head that I put 6 neos inside. The coil is one that I bought from Rick Friedrich, but just about anything will work. It is single wire, looks like 24AWG...but it doesn't really matter. I've run it with 30AWG. I use a ferrite core that needs the hole in the coil former slightly enlarged (I bought a number drill special for it).

BTW, in the circuit I shared if you take the wire and diode that is charging the battery, you can run it back to the input and decrease the draw on the battery and gain about 20% speed on the motor. Very cool. Check it out with a meter...where it's voltage is higher and in the correct sign to work for you. That's what I did to find it. It is the collapse of the drive coil.

The points actuated by magnets are the genius here. It's a switch that will handle a lot of amps and at low amps/high volts it lasts and gives good service no matter how high the voltage. And you're never going to kill it with a back spike! You can run it for about free off any moving object with the 1/4" dia. by1/16" neos (sometimes doubled) with almost no drag. The VCR can run very fast like 8000rpm (maybe faster), but I'm not sure that the points can't keep up with that. I don't remember exactly, but I think I've run it around 3000rpm. (?) Use a transistor for high speeds.

OK guys, take care,

Bob