Motor Generators

[Turion]

https://www.alliedelec.com/product/t...8024/71938445/

High voltage DC input and 24 volt output up to 25 amps. I have one on order.

[BroMikey]

https://www.alliedelec.com/product/t...8024/71938445/

High voltage DC input and 24 volt output up to 25 amps. I have one on order.

Never saw that one. Is that all you need? Or does it require an external circuit to operate the brick? Must be mounted on a very large heat sink, spensive little cridder. Sweet, the nice thing about this high priced block is that you can hang a pot on the output and vary it however it is unknown as a dc motor controller.

71938445.jpg

[BroMikey]

https://www.alliedelec.com/product/t...8024/71938445/

High voltage DC input and 24 volt output up to 25 amps. I have one on order.

You can do the same thing with this, but you would have to feed the cap instead of that clunky bridge. This is a 600watt 24v feed 0-265v and as long as it is always loaded you might not fry it

https://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-110V-220...kAAOSwtM5fCpwB

0-265v input

[Netica]

[QUOTE=Turion;n501871]Netica,
From what I have read in the past I don’t think you can. I think at high voltage you need to use a resistor and then measure voltage drop across the resistor. I would Google “measuring amperage at high voltage”.
There are folks here who know way more than me so maybe one of them will speak up.

Hi Turion,
Thanks for help. I was hoping that someone here may have had experience with this and could give me some advise. At this stage I will not use the meter until I am sure what I am doing is correct.

I have just seen that bistander is helping out will check out over there.

[BroMikey]

https://www.alliedelec.com/product/t...8024/71938445/

High voltage DC input and 24 volt output up to 25 amps. I have one on order.

The thing about it is these coil packs produce 325v under load (leaving a few volt ceiling) at 300watts so any 280v input unit will fry. A max rating for the input device should be 400v.

The question becomes this.
1) Does the coil pack split up into the 150v halves still work?
2) Or are you willing to use 2 series step down converters across both coils?

[Turion]

Understood. But we're going to have to SLOW that machine down. It is too high a frequency to get the coils to be "neutral". That's why there is a small RPM loss under load. Once we do that, I hope we're within range. If not, I have a step down transformer or two I can use to get the voltage in the ballpark at higher amps.

I'm on hold waiting for magnets for my generator. Hopefully they will be here soon. Haven't heard from the metals fabrication place about the motor mounting plate I had made locally. Hurry up and wait. Will probably start winding a coil or two in the next day or so. I have 10, but one doesn't have long enough wire to run it where I want it, so I will probably just replace it.

[BroMikey]

Also to whom this may concern, an example of an ULTRAFAST bridge rectifier board. Standard 60hz rectifiers are not Ultrafast. 60hz diodes are rated in ms miliseconds response time. This is very slow, where ultrafast is a few ns nanoseconds response time used in audio work ranging from 500hz to 20khz

Remember that China ratings are often 5x higher as a max rating. This bridge is very small and would handle 3 amps all day without heating.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/64A-600V-Fe...4AAOSwajFe2NG9

s-l1600.jpg

[Turion]

Met with Greyland's friend and his dad today. They came by my old house. Tomorrow they will be converting the machine back to a DC motor and adding a motor controller so they can see if reducing the RPM will affect the "neutral" condition. At that point they can measure output from all the coils as well as input to the DC motor, and the test results will speak for themselves. Soon.

I've had a significant delay getting my machine back together. Since the epoxy to hold the magnets on the adjustment screw was a fail, I've had to rethink. Having some very short 3/4" cylinders machined that will have a hole in one side that allows me to attach a 3/4 by 1/4" thick neodymium magnet with a hole in the center to the cylinder with a screw. The 3/4" x 3/4" adjustable neutralization magnets will stick to these neos. The opposite side of the cylinder is threaded for a 1/4" bolt with an Allen head that fits into the threaded hole in the coil holder. So waiting for the magnets for that. I ordered some that were 3/4 by 1/8" thick, not realizing that they weren't beveled on both sides like the magnets I have purchased before. It turns out, only the magnets 1/4" thick or thicker are beveled on both sides, and I need to put the bolt through from the beveled side so that it is flush with the magnet and the neutralization magnet has a flat place to attach. I had already ordered the magnets before I realized there was an issue, and when I contacted the company to see if the magnets I ordered had a bevel on the North or South side, they couldn't tell me, so I had to wait for them to arrive to order the opposite polarity. They arrived today. So ordered 10 of the opposite polarity, and will send 5 of each polarity to my friend for his machine, since he is making the threaded cylinders. I also ordered 20 of the 1/4' thick magnets that are beveled on both sides, and will send him 10 of those. I didn't like how thin those 1/8" magnets looked. I wanted to make a single order of everything, since the shipping is ridiculous. It costs more than the magnets.

I got the coupling to hook up the MY1020 directly to the generator shaft, and will run the machine that way until the flanges that fit the generator shaft for the pulleys come in. I also need the motor mount I am having made to mount the motor on top of the generator. The flanges are not expected until Jan 7-Feb 6 according to Amazon. I got the pulleys, 3 different length belts, and flanges that fit a variety of different sized shafts. 7/16, 1/2, and 5/8. The 3/4 one hasn't come in yet, and that's what I need for the generator shaft. I got two of those since one of the motors I might use has a 3/4 inch shaft also. I did get the sleeve on the metric MY1016 shaft that changes its diameter to 5/8, but it hasn't been welded in place yet.

So making progress, but no results to report from actually running this machine. When all these parts come in, I'm really going to have a nice setup. My buddy has his running and at 3400 rpm he can sit a glass of water on it and it doesn't move. NO vibration at all to speak of. And QUIET. Not like the machine Greyland has. I'll be using the last of my wire to wind a couple more coils in case I need to switch over to ferrite. It gives me something to do while I wait for parts.

[BroMikey]

Met with Greyland.............. will be converting the machine back to a DC motor and adding a motor controller so they can see if reducing the RPM will affect the "neutral" condition.

What if he need 3050 rpm's not 2800 Rpm's?? Better be able to go up to 3300 rpm and back down from there. Only way is do like the ebike guys do, fed a little over 36v, say 40vdc so best to buy the big controller on ebay that allows you to use 30-48vdc. But like you say it was designed for 2800 -2700 rpm's? Or did your old rigs really get read accurately? Some of those laser probes show a wild swing. This one let's you go from 10v-50vdc so make sure you have the voltage for these tests. A 48vdc switching supply is cheap.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MAX-10-50VD...Cclp%3A2334524

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-48V-20A-...wAAOSwMN5d9LY8

s-l1600.jpg

[Turion]

2800 RPM for the neutral effect is accurate. At least with the OLD rotor that only had six magnets. You may have forgotten, but I had this machine at the independent testing lab not once but TWICE. They confirmed RPM under FULL load and they confirmed input to the run motor. They also confirmed output from coils to load. What they would NOT confirm was total output of the machine. We have always had each coil pair hooked up to its own load, a 300 watt light bulb. So six switches and six bulbs. Six loads. They did not have the meters to to put on six loads to measure voltage and amps all at the same time, so would not confirm TOTAL output. But I learned to add when I was young, so I was able to compute total output all by myself. This is the same lab Greyland does a lot of machine work for, so he has a good relationship with them and set it all up.

The motor they will be using is the 36 volt MY1020, and it’s rated speed happens to be 2800 RPM. So it should work out fine. The correct RPM should be LESS than that with DOUBLE the magnets on the rotor. Maybe much less. My new machine has 22 magnets on the rotor, so the RPM may be MUCH lower. Time will tell.

BUT, you must remember, nothing is real unless bistander says it is.

This controller is cheaper
https://www.amazon.com/abcGoodefg-Co...8315411&sr=8-1

[alexelectric]

0k, but it is also about operating the generator at a lower speed, if you already have more magnets, of course at higher speeds, more induction, but more wear on the parts.

There are wind generators at 200 rpm, and they give 2000 watts, they have a large number of magnets.

Mr. Dave's generator of course depends on the coil at optimal speed will produce what you want

[BroMikey]

2800 RPM for the neutral effect is accurate.
I learned to add when I was young, so I was able to compute total output all by myself. .BUT, you must remember, nothing is real unless bistander says it is.

The correct RPM should be LESS than that with DOUBLE the magnets on the rotor.

Maybe much less.

My new machine has 22 magnets on the rotor, so the RPM may be MUCH lower.

Time will tell.

I see your points are right on. Still better check in with bye-slammer before he wets himself. Who knows maybe even he will be able to do addition eventually. The rig should produce at a lower rpm and this will increase the life of the unit. Once it is looped with a few boxes, this will become irrefutable evidence that the entire academic system has been lying to all of us for many many generations. It is not that we are responsible for bringing about this awareness, more that just happened to be the one's alive during this event.

You did say the new unit was producing more power than the old one with the greater RPM. Most people do not have a VFD to control their single phase induction motor which is a requirement to raise and lower speeds. Such a VFD or MPPT would be pricey compared to DC controllers and no more efficient. This discussion is for the looped side. You want the looped function apart from the main output so no need using induction motor drives. KISS.

Next we move to the 5 coil packs that will be devoted to free power. You can get cheap 380v input VFD supplies that output 110v or 220v. 50hz or 60hz. Use the fast bridge, feed the onboard cap bank that is made for the box, do not add caps.
Look for the B+ feed connection. VFD's often let you feed the cap bank directly bypassing the onboard bridge which is the first stage.

BTW
As a for instance.
10 Solar panels connected in series can be fed into the 450vdc ports. Using high voltage on the input at a lower amperage is a cost effective conversion.

[BroMikey]

7" X 9.5" box called VFD single phase input 200vac-255vac
Output single phase 0-220vac adjustable, Frequency adjustable
weight 8 lbs. This is the proper drive to supply current to an average household. You need suppression connections to ground and other surge reactors as they are called as part of a product for-sale. You will learn. Your unit will be well worth $4000 upon completion even tho it will only provide a continuous 1000 watts output.

This would mean a great deal to those who use RV's to live in worldwide. With 1000watts continuous the operator could run the blower on their gas boiler furnace/pump and all the lights/tv in a whisper quiet format compared to a gas engine. They could save $65 per month that normally they would have to give the power company. Where there are no power lines this unit would become invaluable. RV owners will gobble them up. Foot in the door filthy rich, non stop production.

https://www.ato.com/3hp-vfd-single-phase-input-output

0003456_3-hp-22-kw-vfd-single-phase-input-output_550.jpg

[Turion]

This generator is so far from being ready for production it isn’t even funny. What about the heat issue? Will ferrite cores eliminate that or reduce it substantially? Can the RPM be reduced without sacrificing output enough to eliminate it? How long will the bearings last under the incredible stresses of magnetic attraction and repulsion? Are there other materials, like non magnetic stainless steel, that the rotor and at least parts of the coil holders SHOULD be made of. With more magnets on the rotor can the RPM be significantly reduced? Will the coils have to be connected differently? Will the number of strands in series need to be reduced? Will the wires need to be reduced in length? Coils are currently putting out over 300 volts. Can that be reduced by changing something in the wiring without sacrificing the “neutral” aspect of the coils. How much slower do we have to run with the current rotor to return to the “neutral” range? Can we get there by just running faster?

This was simply a prototype to prove that the ideas it combines could work to do what I say they can do. Someone with a heck of a lot more background in electronics and mechanical engineering, motor design and generator design needs to spend a couple years exploring possibilities.

Can the machine, with much FASTER ferrite cores, run as a generator, fire as a motor at TDC, and then run as a generator again as the rotor magnet moves away? If it CAN, there is no need for magnetic neutralization now is there? Let the iron cores attract the magnets until TDC and fire the coils as motor coils THROUGH the coils with the 3 Battery method, collecting 85-95% of the energy used to fire them. And collect the generated energy as the rotor magnet moves away. Super fast switching and incredible timing, but possible.

Why spend the TIME and money (thousands and thousands of dollars) to develop this machine and answer all those questions when it is obsolete??????

it probably cost me close to $2,000 to have the newest version of the machine built that I am putting together right now. I did it for a couple of reasons. I am tired of bistander yapping and it will be fun to shut him up for good. But he hides in the dark behind a fake name, so if he is embarrassed enough he will just change it and come back as someone else.

But I wanted a SOLID working prototype sitting on my bench that I could point to and say “That was my idea.” Not the unit that Greyland is working with that must remain bolted to the bench because the bottom mounting plateI flexes and puts everything out of adjustment if you move it. Not the machine that Greyland has that vibrates enough and flexes enough that every hour or so you have to readjust the rotor to keep it centered between the coil holders. I will have a machine designed and built to eliminate all the problems of past machines, just as the one Greyland has was built to address all the problems of the version before it. And that’s good enough for me. Whatever problems I discover with the new machine I will point out and it will be up to someone else to figure out how to solve them if that is the road they want to travel. 16 versions of this machine and probably $20,000-$30,000 invested to figure out there is a better way. Worth every penny of that to understand how electricity REALLY works. And THAT is the path foreword, not clunky, noisy, mechanical machines with spinning rotors that can fly to pieces and seriously DAMAGE things, including YOU.

I cannot, in good conscious, recommend pouring thousands of dollars into the development of something that is functionally obsolete when that same money could be put into something else that is safer, smaller, more productive, far lighter, and has far more POTENTIAL. But folks can do what they want. They usually do.

[BroMikey]

This generator is so far from being ready for production it isn’t even funny. What about the heat issue? Will ferrite cores eliminate that or reduce it substantially? Can the RPM be reduced without sacrificing output enough to eliminate it?

Not to under rate all of your great questions the answer to heat in cores is 500 material some call metglas.
The answer to the number of magnets slowing on your coils is 3500rpm and smaller coils putting out the same power which makes room for many more coils. But hell we got our foot in the door so change the cores and make it sing.Break in the paradigm first throwing off the shackles.

Thane has shown us the way. He has minimum 24 magnets and small coil at 3600-3800rpm. Core material 500 metglas. not my design.
But I will follow him only because all of the military marines use 24 poles which is a confirmation of years of research.

Get rid of the heat, loop with small boxes and sell as is with VFD. Or let the buyer hook the outputs to 10ah batteries in series then use 48vdc inverter every 4 batteries. Peoples just itching to try one in place of their Bedini. Show time fellas