Oscillating Reed Switch Pulse Motor.

[Allen Burgess]

From the picture with the magnet mounted on the shaft, it appears you have a plastic bushing?

@OrionLightShip,

That was just a prop for the photograph. The axle holes are drilled midway through the coupling on the perpendicular, and one hole should be a little undersized to squeeze fit the sanded axle. The other photo anomaly is the position of the Reed switch pins. The pins actually face in the opposite direction, away from the coil. Approching the stationary rotor magnet with power connected to the normally open Reed switch can cause the contacts to close and weld shut. This can happen when starting the motor. You need to spin the rotor first by hand, then connect the power and approach the magnet with the Reed switch and coil while the rotor's spinning only!

[Allen Burgess]

Fitting the bearings.

A level of "Chinese Style" craftsmanship is needed to fit the axle and bearings into the coupling. Don't bring glue of any kind anywhere near the ceramic bearings! Here's how I suggest you go about it:

You need to cut the brass rod down to under a foot to handle it; The ends need to be sanded to allow the 1/8" I.D. ceramic bearings to slip over the rod from each end. The center of the rod should have a 3/4" inch center section left with the original 1/8" thickness for the the bearings to snug fit onto.

One of the holes through the PVC coupling needs to be smaller then the other. The smaller hole needs to be small enough hold the sanded end of the axle rod tight. The larger hole can be exactly 1/8" inch to allow the thicker center portion to pass through. Everything holds together by highly toleranced pressure. Do not apply pressure to the bearings latteraly from the top. Use a (Toothpick) tool to move them sideways only from the lower bushing!

Finishing; The axle needs to be cut so that the far end is short enough to pass completely through the larger hole, before the thicker center part hits the smaller hole on the other side. This allows us to get the last bearing on. So, the axle goes through into the the tube rotor, then the far bearing goes on; Then the tail end of the axle needs to be short enough to push all the way through the first hole to mount the second bearing before the thicker center section hits the other wall. Then it comes back through and everything tightens up.

The rotor tube magnet specifications state that the I.D. bore hole is 1/4". Actually, the dimension is larger to allow for a 1/4" insertion.

The magnet rotor will sail for a very long time with a tiny push. You'll be amazed by the length of "free wheeling time" if you succeed at mounting the rotor this way on the ceramic bearings. Deep satisfaction reward!

[OrionLightShip]

A level of "Chinese style" craftsmanship is needed to fit the axle and bearings in the coupling. Don't bring glue of any kind close to the ceramic bearings. Here's how I suggest you go about it:

You need to cut the brass rod down to under a foot to handle it; The ends need to be sanded to allow the ceramic bearings to slip over the rod from each end. The center of the rod should have a 3/4" inch center section of the original 1/8" thickness for the the bearings to snug fit onto.

I'm not sure I'm up to the task here since this is not reduced to cookie cutter. I'm not what you would call a highly skilled builder by any means. I don't have any hope, with the information given, that I would be able to replicate what you have accomplished.

I'd rather opt for a cooperative venture, send my magnets and a hundred bucks to Patrick and let him share the results....

what say you Patrick?

[Allen Burgess]

I'm not sure I'm up to the task here since this is not reduced to cookie cutter. I'm not what you would call a highly skilled builder by any means. I don't have any hope, with the information given, that I would be able to replicate what you have accomplished.

I'd rather opt for a cooperative venture, send my magnets and a hundred bucks to Patrick and let him share the results....

what say you Patrick?

@OrionLightShip,

The brass sands down very easily. You can buy individual drill bits. It's not that hard to manage. Sleep on it. You can do it Pal!

[OrionLightShip]

@OrionLightShip,

The brass sands down very easily. You can buy individual drill bits. It's not that hard to manage. Sleep on it. You can do it Pal!

Perhaps I'm just panicky I'm in the middle of an electrostatic build and my work space in this apartment is tiny. I will be slow on the go at best, logistics of taking care of my Mother takes up a lot more of my time than I thought it would. I know...excuse excuses....well onward. I just need to take things one step at a time.

My offer to Patrick still stands though!
I think a lot of great things could be accomplished through working in coop groups instead of everyone taking the shotgun approach to things.

[Allen Burgess]

Drill holes.

Perhaps I'm just panicky I'm in the middle of an electrostatic build and my work space in this apartment is tiny. I will be slow on the go at best, logistics of taking care of my Mother takes up a lot more of my time than I thought it would. I know...excuse excuses....well onward. I just need to take things one step at a time.

My offer to Patrick still stands though!
I think a lot of great things could be accomplished through working in coop groups instead of everyone taking the shotgun approach to things.

@OrionLightShip,

A 3/32" drill bit along with the 1/8", allows 1/32" to sand from the brass rod to slip the bearing over and 1/32" of extra material left in the small PVC hole to pressure the end of the axle rod. By placing the brass axle rod in an electric drill chuck, it only takes about three seconds to sand that much brass away with fine grit metal sand paper. The 3/32" drill bit is the only extra piece of equipment you need to buy, then everything snap fits together like Legos. A hacksaw blade would help too. Don't forget, the length of the finished axle is under 3" in length. This means you only need to sand 1" of rod on each end! Patience and attention to detail will pay dividends. There's hardly any real work involved! I covered all the pitfalls! I could finish this project in around ten minutes with all the tools and parts in place.

[Allen Burgess]

Brass axle.

The finished brass axle is merely three inches long. Only one inch on each end needs to be sanded down a tiny amount. That's all that's required to finish the axle. You can drill an eighth inch hole on each end of the PVC coupling and shim the ends up afterwards with tiny toothpick slivers to keep the axle fixed in position. This is not hard to do!

You simply thread the rotor first with the axle followed by a bearing on the inside of the coupling, then you pass the axle through the first hole, and slip the second bearing on and re-seat the axle back into the first hole; Then you press the bearings into the tube magnet holes and over the axle thickness, by pushing on the bottem of the bearings with a hard toothpick.

[Allen Burgess]

The single bearing option.

I ruined three bearings, two from glue and a third from lateral pressure. I did alot of spinning on the sole remaining bearing alone. The force of gyroscopic precession tends to make the magnet tube want to travel laterally. It's going to try and loosen one of the two bearings depending on the direction of spin. I found that one single bearing alone, slipped over one sanded side of the axle, and butted up against the thickened portion and centered so the force of precession works in the direction of the thick side of the axle, will work as well or maybe even better then two. Inertial stability seems to overcome the force of precession with speed. Better to start with two bearings though. I thought of ways to deal with this, like tiny cotter pin wires, and miniature "C" ring clamps, but never got around to it. I'm sure ther're even better ways to do it I haven't thought of, and I'd sure like to see someone think a better way up. These kinds of bearings perform exceptionally, although they're just a little tricky to work with for now. My approach is satisfactory, but not perfect.

[Turion]

Ideas

Not trying to toss in a wrench, but here are a couple ideas that may help you out with this build if you decide to go BIGGER some day, and may help with other projects you have in mind for the future.

Options for larger build - YouTube

Dave

[Allen Burgess]

Larger bearings.

@Turion,

Thanks for the input. I spent nearly all my time focusing on the problems associated with mounting and running the precision ceramic bearings, but I can assure you and everyone else that your "Outsized" version will only reach a small fraction of the top end speed!

The oscillating Reed switch has no upward speed limit. The only other way to spin in the upper "Mach" ranges would be to use a bearingless spinner. The 3/4" tube could spin in a divited dish on a ball bearing, but shielding from shattering while controlling the Reed switch oscillation gap would create a problem. Mounting the Reed switch on a remote controlled gimbal, and covering the unit with a transparent lid would work.

The rotor magnet flux strengthens as the neo-spinner speeds up, requiring a small distance adjustment in the Reed switch and coil to sustain the oscillation. Hyper relativistic effects can be witnessed at super fast spin rates. Those heavy bearings stand zero chance of spinning a rotor up in that range. The ceramic bearings would reach ten times the R.P.M. enclosed in the safety of the protective PVC housing. I believe the Reed switch in oscillation can outperform the transistor!

[Matthew Jones]

I understand the large bearing issues, but even small ceramics have a bit of drag, the beauty is they do not heat up adding to the drag.

The best solution for any size with unrestricted rotation is magnetic bearings. Of course purchased they are through the roof expensive, but simple ones can be built for near nothing and if you have access to a 3d printer they can be built really quick and really easy. Small high powered neo's are real cheap.

I have no concept of what "Hyper relativistic effects" means, but it sounds like you need some speed. Magnetic bearings and possibly air shielding you should be able to go fast no matter the size.

I would be willing to help if someone wanted to try.

Just my two cents

Also I would like to see a schematic if thats no problem I still fail understand what is supposed to happen.

Matt

[Allen Burgess]

Magnetic bearings.

@MatthewJones,

3d printed magnetic bearings is something that sounds very interesting. 3d printing a ceramic bearing axle with bushings might be an even bigger help. There's really no problem with the build that I outlined!

One of the "relativistic" effects I demonstrated in one of my videos was neo sphere weight gain with high speed spin.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_atlyEC7o4

There's a schematic attached below:

[Matthew Jones]

I am working on the model now, magnets shouldn't exceed $10 dollars + shipping, can be 3d printed or cut from bread board via cnc.
Should have a working model in weak or 2, shipping holidays ect...

Do you have a link to the video? Or any videos that pertain. I am kinda simple. I need to see it function or at minimum plans, schematic, ect...then I can build it.

Cheers
Matt

[Allen Burgess]

Build schematic.

@Matthew Jones,

There's nothing to the circuit! It's just a Reed switch in series with a bifilar coil and battery. There would be nothing to see in a video because it's totally enclosed. Go back and look at post #3 with the five pictures: The power to the coil passes directly through the Reed switch. There's nothing more to it, that's it! It's infernally simple!

I'll be here to help guide you through the build. I'm thrilled that you're undertaking a replication.

Enlarge the picture below, there's a nice view of the coil, but what you see there is all of it! The six main componants: Power coil on core, 1/8 inch brass axel, ceramic bearing, battery and Reed Switch.

[Matthew Jones]

I think I get it, I didn't realize the reed was the switch. Whats the specs on the coil?

Matt