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Here is a book that this project is based on
Electrostatic Motors: Their History, Types and Principles of Operation: Oleg Jefimenko, Thomas Valone, David K. Walker: 9781935023470: Amazon.com: Books
Here is the video
https://youtu.be/kZsTI06JHRA
Information fromSteele:
Here is the prototype electrostatic motor of the Oleg Jefimenco design running on 10 kv at 0.1 milliamp. (one watt).
You will see the 8 hacksaw blades I used as the electrodes.
The teeth on the blades work perfectly for the job as this is where the most HT discharges from.
Inside the white PVC cylinder drum, is a cylinder of aluminium foil which is unconnected to anything.
Each alternate blade is +,-.+.-.
You can hear the hiss of the HT doing its job.
I turn the motor off for a brief time during the video, as otherwise the motor accelerates to too high a speed and shakes madly, being not properly dynamically balanced.
It appears that such a motor, if double the length, would have enough torque to run my Electrostatic Alternator, thus powering itself. (two watts).
I have experimented with one of Oleg Jefimencos electrostatic motor designs with great success!
This motor I made up is a drum type of white PVC 110 mm in diameter and 160mm long.
It has 8 pieces of hacksaw blades as the electrodes.
These work very well with the teeth almost touching the drum.
You are probably very familiar with this design.
This motor runs on 10kv at 0.1 milliamp!! (one watt).
It self starts and if permitted, would run up to very high revs,but because I haven’t got it perfectly dynamically balanced, I can only let it run at a few hundred rpm or it shakes itself violently.
It looks like a motor twice as long would have enough torque to run the Electrostatic Alternator. (just 2 watts!)
I suggest that you feed the HT directly to the machine, rather than try odd fancy stuff such as a ball on an electrode to feed the motor.
Air gaps are totally uneccessary in the input supply and in fact reduce efficiency markedly.
It doesn’t matter if your supply is higher than 10kv, but this is probably the minimum it will work on.
Smooth HT DC works best.
With my 8 electrodes, this consumes one watt (10kv at 0.1 milliamp).
My electrodes, (hacksaw blade pieces), are 150mm long of active (in close proximity to the drum) length.
If doubled in length, would consume 2 watts.
If you increase the voltage much, this doesn’t add much to the speed/torque.
What decides the speed/torque, is the total length of close proximity blade/electrodes.
The more you have, the more torque/speed.
You could also double the diameter of the drum with twice as many electrodes, but the larger diameter it is, the more precise the roundness and dynamic balance needs to be.
This is why I only used a drum 110mm in diameter.
Look up Oleg Jefimenco on the net.
He shows a few designs, including this one which I made.
Electrostatic Motors: Their History, Types and Principles of Operation: Oleg Jefimenko, Thomas Valone, David K. Walker: 9781935023470: Amazon.com: Books
Here is the video
https://youtu.be/kZsTI06JHRA
Information fromSteele:
Here is the prototype electrostatic motor of the Oleg Jefimenco design running on 10 kv at 0.1 milliamp. (one watt).
You will see the 8 hacksaw blades I used as the electrodes.
The teeth on the blades work perfectly for the job as this is where the most HT discharges from.
Inside the white PVC cylinder drum, is a cylinder of aluminium foil which is unconnected to anything.
Each alternate blade is +,-.+.-.
You can hear the hiss of the HT doing its job.
I turn the motor off for a brief time during the video, as otherwise the motor accelerates to too high a speed and shakes madly, being not properly dynamically balanced.
It appears that such a motor, if double the length, would have enough torque to run my Electrostatic Alternator, thus powering itself. (two watts).
I have experimented with one of Oleg Jefimencos electrostatic motor designs with great success!
This motor I made up is a drum type of white PVC 110 mm in diameter and 160mm long.
It has 8 pieces of hacksaw blades as the electrodes.
These work very well with the teeth almost touching the drum.
You are probably very familiar with this design.
This motor runs on 10kv at 0.1 milliamp!! (one watt).
It self starts and if permitted, would run up to very high revs,but because I haven’t got it perfectly dynamically balanced, I can only let it run at a few hundred rpm or it shakes itself violently.
It looks like a motor twice as long would have enough torque to run the Electrostatic Alternator. (just 2 watts!)
I suggest that you feed the HT directly to the machine, rather than try odd fancy stuff such as a ball on an electrode to feed the motor.
Air gaps are totally uneccessary in the input supply and in fact reduce efficiency markedly.
It doesn’t matter if your supply is higher than 10kv, but this is probably the minimum it will work on.
Smooth HT DC works best.
With my 8 electrodes, this consumes one watt (10kv at 0.1 milliamp).
My electrodes, (hacksaw blade pieces), are 150mm long of active (in close proximity to the drum) length.
If doubled in length, would consume 2 watts.
If you increase the voltage much, this doesn’t add much to the speed/torque.
What decides the speed/torque, is the total length of close proximity blade/electrodes.
The more you have, the more torque/speed.
You could also double the diameter of the drum with twice as many electrodes, but the larger diameter it is, the more precise the roundness and dynamic balance needs to be.
This is why I only used a drum 110mm in diameter.
Look up Oleg Jefimenco on the net.
He shows a few designs, including this one which I made.
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