Bedinis Scalar Battery Charger

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, i built this charger, though i used mechanical wall light switches.
Circuit is somewhat different, i will draw the circuit when i have time today.
I mechanical tied together a single pole switch and a double pole or 3 way switch.
When this is flipped one way, each 1.5 farad 12 volt capacitor is charged, with 12 volt yard bulb inline.
When switches are flipped the other way, the capacitors are then in series and a single bulb is inline with original 12 volt battery and is charged with around 24 volts.
This bulb lights brightly for a little while, then i repeat cycle again.
I manually pulsed for about an hour last night and this morning, the standing voltage on this exide, cutting edge 12 volt - 235 cca battery is slightly above what it was previously, before charging capacitors and lighting bulbs for an hour.
Definitely something to this.
Similar to this, i'll post my circuit later.

peace love light

[Matthew Jones]

Hi folks, i built this charger, though i used mechanical wall light switches.
Circuit is somewhat different, i will draw the circuit when i have time today.
I mechanical tied together a single pole switch and a double pole or 3 way switch.
When this is flipped one way, each 1.5 farad 12 volt capacitor is charged, with 12 volt yard bulb inline.
When switches are flipped the other way, the capacitors are then in series and a single bulb is inline with original 12 volt battery and is charged with around 24 volts.
This bulb lights brightly for a little while, then i repeat cycle again.
I manually pulsed for about an hour last night and this morning, the standing voltage on this exide, cutting edge 12 volt - 235 cca battery is slightly above what it was previously, before charging capacitors and lighting bulbs for an hour.
Definitely something to this.
Similar to this, i'll post my circuit later.

peace love light

Works better in my experience to switch the capacitor and the batteries. Capacitors lose 50% of their energy as soon as capacitors go into serial. Period... their is no way around it.
The best way is all capacitor.

Matt

[SkyWatcher]

Hi matt, thanks for the reply, do you have any links or information on the all capacitor version, thanks.
Also, can you share your experiences with bedinis design or the all capacitor version, that would be greatly appreciated.
Well, the battery voltage is still standing strong after almost a full day and it is still slightly above the original voltage.
Do you matt or anyone else, have any ideas of why this circuit is showing these results.
A thought i had was, that maybe it takes less energy to charge the capacitors from 6 volts up to 12 volts, and maybe we get a little more, from the series dump across the battery.
All ideas and improvements welcome.
Here is the circuit.
peace love light

[Matthew Jones]

Maybe a scope shot of the switching action will reveal more but I believe the switch's are at some point arcing. This will throw a spike in the voltage. Transistors may not show the same performance.

I have only built it with transistor. With 2 batteries and one cap you can sustain load for long period of time. But switching still has cost.

All capacitor circuit is a different circuit altogether. All I am going to say is keep in mind you cannot switch the capacitor into serial to raise your voltage.

As far as charging capacitor its backward from the way your thinking. I don't know what size your caps are but something a 10kuf at 6 volt has 180 mj worth of power in it. Same cap at 12 volt has 720 mj worth of power. Although the voltage has only doubled the power is 4.3 times higher.

Likewise serial switching reduces capacity, 2 10kuf caps @ 12 volt in series is a 5k uf cap @ 24 volt total.

Suspect that as soon as you start to really switch that thing, if thats your plan, at high speed to maintain the load you'll start seeing the consumption and loss from switching capacitor in series.

Good luck though I hope you find something the rest of us haven't.

Matt

[SkyWatcher]

Hi matt, thanks for the information, not sure what i'm going to do next, i may continue manually pulsing for a couple hours a day, to be sure of the results.
As far as my theory, i was meaning, that charging the capacitor from 6 volts to 12 volts draws less current from the battery, compared to 0 volts in capacitor.
And maybe that helps things when back charging with the series caps.
I would not doubt some sparking is happening in switches sometimes, if not all the time to some degree.
Could that have an effect, maybe, since i am aware of the mechanical switch closure anomaly.
Future possible switching methods, if this setup continues to show good results, would be a slow rotating commutator setup, even powered by small solar panel would work.
Especially if it powered something and kept the battery charged or charges it further.
Do you have any simple circuits like this that you would care to share matt, using 1 battery-2 caps, or the 2 battery-1 cap your speaking of.
peace love light

[Matthew Jones]

I have an idea. I'll draw it up this evening. I run out of time this morning.

Matt

[Matthew Jones]

So I have run out of time again, not my doing just my life.

So let me get you an idea.

555 Pulse Generator with Adjustable Duty Cycle

This is a nice little 555 circuit that allows for frequency and duty cycle adjustment.
Use it to drive this SSR:
LBA120 IXYS Integrated Circuits Division | Relays | DigiKey

If both inputs of that SSR are hooked to the 555 setup the output will be a flip flop. The SSR has 2 switch, one is off by default the other is on.
Just look at the data sheet and you'll see what I mean.

Now that can run your switching. You can use regular 20 amp relays from the auto shop (3 of them) or go to transistors if you chose to go faster. I would switch the batteries into serial and back instead of using capacitors. My preference...you can experiment with either.

Now switching will cost you but if you do a little math across the circuit you can find out your consumption at that point and supplement as needed.

At good switching speeds you can run a larger load than the supplement that is required, well then you have cracked the 100% mark.

I'll try to keep up with this. Just ask if you need anything.
Matt

[SkyWatcher]

Hi matt, thanks very much for the helpful information, i may use some of those ideas in future.
Well, i have been manually pulsing this circuit for a couple hours a day and the battery is not slightly higher, though it is still resting at exactly the same voltage as when i originally started pulsing this circuit, which is 12.52-12.53 volts.
It should be noted, that the power went out other day and i had to use this battery with my inverter to power a 10 watt led bulb for almost an hour.
So with that inverter load and led bulb and after at least 4 more hours of pulsing, the battery is back at its original voltage.
Sure seems odd, considering i ran that bulb load.
Is it possible the battery is now conditioned in some way, at that voltage point and it now doesn't take much to bring it back to that point, or it just naturally wants to get to that point and only takes some nudging, pulse wise.
This is interesting, i must say.
peace love light

[Wistiti]

Hi Sky. nice work as usual!
Do you switch this by hand?? If so you are a really patient!! What is the approx. frequency of your switching? I may take a certain amount of time to fully charge your cap...
One other question; with your last test (with the inverter on the batt) do you still use the yard bulb?
It is a really simple cuircuit. I will give it a try when the time permit.
Thank you for sharing!

[SkyWatcher]

Hi wistiti, thanks for the reply and interest.
Yes this is manually pulsed.
With this particular arrangement, it seems best to let the capacitors charge for a bit, around 15-25 seconds, then throw the switch, to put the capacitors in series and the yard bulb then blazes for a bit and tapers off, for a total of 8 seconds.
When i used this battery previously in the power outage with the inverter, i used a standard wall powered, led bulb 10 watts.
Here's a pic of the simple set up, don't mind the mess.
But yes, it actually takes longer to fully charge the caps in the parallel switch position, which is the best way to test it, but takes much longer, so at least a minute or more of charging would be ideal.
But doing this longer charging, will show for sure, that the battery is barely, if at all, losing charge, running these loads and charging caps.
And it seems anyway, the battery will rise back to the same standing voltage as when you started, or very close to it.


peace love light

Also, here is a very good post from Turion, that i think, explains this simple circuit i'm currently testing, from 'basic free energy device' thread.

All,
I'm not trying to be an ass about this, but based on some things that have been said, I'm NOT sure everyone here has a real understanding of potential based systems, so I am going to take you through "Potential Based Systems 101." You may already know all this. If so, I apologize, but I am sure it will benefit SOMEONE.

First, let me throw out MY two bit theory of electricity as it specifically pertains to DC power from a battery. I believe the power comes out of the battery, goes through the load with absolutely MINIMAL losses, and back into the other side of the battery where that power DIES. It isn't the load that "kills" the power, it is the battery itself. If you can keep from sending that power into the ground on the battery to die, you can use it over and over and over. Hence my attraction to potential based systems.

Imagine you have four batteries you have charged up to MAX with your charger. It couldn't possibly raise the voltage in any of those batteries by .01 volts if you left the charger on for days. (TRY THIS...I have)

Is the charge that is in each battery going to be exactly the same as the charge in all the other batteries? I doubt it. They will probably ALL be different. Now if you connect all the positives together and all the negatives together and let the batteries sit overnight, what will happen? You will come out the next morning and all four batteries will have EXACTLY the same charge in them. WHY? Because that energy flows like water and wants to equalize. And here is the interesting part. The batteries that were high went DOWN but the batteries that were lower went UP, EVEN THOUGH YOUR CHARGER HAD CHARGED THEM TO THE MAX. You actually increased the POTENTIAL of these batteries to receive energy by doing this. Some batteries went "down" but did you "lose" this energy, or did it just transfer over to the batteries that were lower and went up? Try it and YOU tell ME.

Take two of these batteries and put them in series to make one big battery that has a positive and a negative. You now have a 24 volt "big" battery. For purposes of something I will talk about later, I want you to remember that this is the "HIGH VOLTAGE SIDE". Now connect your other two batteries in parallel with the "big" battery. What you really have is a battery that is charged to 24 volts and two batteries that are at 12 volts. If you leave them set, connected in parallel, what do you think is going to happen? The "battery" that is at 24 volts is going to decrease and the two batteries at 12 volts are going to increase. Do you lose any energy, or does it just move from the battery with more energy to the battery with less energy and actually INCREASE the potential of that battery with less energy to absorb a charge? You HAVE to do the simple experiments over and over and over to understand what is going on and how to make the best use of it.

Let's try that same experiment again, but this time between the positive of the big battery and the positives of the two batteries in parallel we place a motor. Now as the energy moves from the 24 volt side to the 12 volt side, it runs the motor. Dos the motor use up this energy as it moves through? Well some is lost as heat in the wires, but mostly NO, it is not lost. It travels through the motor and out the other side and equalizes the batteries just like before, only it ran our load along the way...basically for free. TRY IT WITH and WITHOUT the motor and compare the results. This motor was not really a "LOAD" because it USED no (or very little) energy.

And it isn't the "load" that determines how much power moves through it, it is the potential difference.

For instance, if I have two batteries in series...One is charged to 12.2 and the other is charged to 12.7....Their combined voltage when wired in series is 24.9.
When you put a load between the positives of these two batteries in series and a third battery that is charged to 12.9, you have a potential difference of 12 volts. If what you are trying to run needs EXACTLY 12 volts to run, it will immediately start running. And will probably run for a while before stopping. Why will it stop? Because as battery 3 charges to greater than 12.9 and the total voltage of the two in series drops to less than 24.9, you no longer have the potential difference of 12 volts to run the load. It's that simple. Thats why a 12 volt motor is a great load. It will run on less than 12 volts, so can continue running even though the potential difference goes down. But at some point, when the batteries in series have gone down and the batteries in parallel have gone up, the potential difference is so little that the motor stops. You should have switched batteries around long before that. This change in the potential difference was the thing that Benitez fought to deal with for YEARS, because the load will no longer run.

You really need a minimum of three sets of two batteries. Two in series providing the 24 volt side. Two in parallel to be charged. And two that are resting after being charged. It would be even better, if you could afford it, to have one extra set of two. The batteries that have just been discharged could move to a rest position to recover, and two batteries that WERE in this rest position move into the position to be charged. If you follow one group of batteries through the cycle it would be
1. Provide power (in series)
2. Rest
3. Charge (in parallel)
4. Rest

Now the boost circuit assures that the voltage that is hitting the charging batteries is HIGH enough to assure proper charging, and it EXTENDS the time that this happens. Because it accepts a "range of voltages" and puts it out at 16 volts (when you set it to) it continues to hit the charging batteries with 16 volts even when the potential difference has gone down below 12 volts a ways.

When do you want to switch batteries around??? When the charge hitting the charge batteries drops below two volts above the charge battery voltage. Because a DC motor PULSES, the charge that hits the charging batteries is a PULSED CHARGE, and you want it to be 2 volts over the battery voltage at all times. The boost circuit takes care of this. With careful management, you can make sure your charging batteries are always being properly charged.

This is a potential based system. You are not USING the power, you are moving it around to do work without sending it to ground and destroying it.

If the motor you are running with this system is used to turn a generator you have a bit of extra power to top off your batteries from time to time, or take one generator coil and use it to cap dump charge a couple batteries to go into the rotation once in a while. No matter HOW you look at it, this is the basis of an over unity system. How FAR over unity is up to you. How big a generator can you run with that motor? How efficient it it? How much power will it put out?

Oh, and then what if the output of the GENERATOR you are running becomes the HIGH VOLTAGE SIDE (remember I talked about that above) of a BIGGER potential based system. That runs a BIGGER motor that turns a BIGGER generator. Work your way up until you are running the country on your eight 12 volt batteries.

AM I crazy? Oh yeah!

[Aaron]

capacitance calculation

When this is flipped one way, each 1.5 farad 12 volt capacitor is charged, with 12 volt yard bulb inline.

Just thought you would want to know...

15000uf is 0.015 farads and NOT 1.5 farads.

http://www.electronics2000.co.uk/cal...-converter.php

[Wistiti]

Hi Sky! Im agree; your circuit is really similar to what Dave show to us for many years... He is really doing good work !

Keep up sharing !

[SkyWatcher]

Hi Aaron, thanks for the reply.
Unless i'm mistaken somehow, the capacitors i'm using are car audio electrolytic capacitors, rated at 1.5 farad and 12 volts each, with the electronics removed from the top.
Hi wistiti, yes i think it is similar also.
If i get another 12 volt flooded battery, i was thinking of trying two 12 volt flooded lead acid batteries in place of the capacitors and then two capacitors in series, in place of the battery, or a 3 battery system.
In that arrangement, we would get an equal 12 volt potential through our load, each time the switch arm was flipped.
peace love light

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, would just like to give an update on the testing of this setup.
I haven't been counting the hours, though i have been manually pulsing this circuit for many days now, at least since i started this thread, for a couple hours a day and the resting voltage is still at the original standing voltage of 12.52-12.53 volts.
Just thought folks might like to be aware of this.
I will probably continue this manual pulsing, for at least another week, then i will think about how to make the circuit more automatic.
peace love light

[Aaron]

capacitance

Hi Aaron, thanks for the reply.
Unless i'm mistaken somehow, the capacitors i'm using are car audio electrolytic capacitors, rated at 1.5 farad and 12 volts each, with the electronics removed from the top.

Yes, which means your capacitors have 100 times the capacitance indicated in Bedini's diagram.

But if it works, I guess that means don't fix it. Or maybe build another with the correct sized caps to see the difference.