Splitting The Positive

[BroMikey]

I have used welding rod cores and some steel rod I got at the metals place that has a smaller diameter. It worked better. I have also made cores out of #12 shotgun shot that work really well. If you want to make "C" shaped cores that's a perfect solution. Mix it with epoxy and pack a rubber tube bent into the correct shape. Then cut the tube off when finished. If you are going to try that, be sure to use a few welding rods in there as well as sort of a "support frame" or it will break into pieces very easily unless you figure out a way to put a couple solid layers of epoxy on the outside after it has dried. The shot is compacted so tightly that there is not a lot of surface for the epoxy to bond to. I have some C cores I made that way and will take a picture. I think the ones I have I routed a "C" shape the size I wanted into some plywood I had glued together to make it thick enough. I lined the "form" with "Cling Wrap". The I cut three or four pieces of welding rod and bent them into the same shape. I put some shot mixed with epoxy into the form then the welding rod and then more shot, tamping it down so it was packed in tight and flat on the top as well as the bottom. I'll take a picture or two or shoot a video so you can see. It is also a good way to make large toroids with an iron core.

As for coils... always as many strands as you can stand to wrap together. It gives you the most options.

Now that my generator is working like I want it to, I am on to experimenting with different coil cores, wire sizes and configurations. It is a huge data accumulation project that involves winding lots and lots of coils. Not a lot of fun.

yeah we are done with dinner drinking a small glass of Champagne

And I see your details, this is putting me at ease knowing that cheap
cores can be had this way that really work well enough to get me in
the ball park. This opens up availability for many shapes with simple
tools.

This gives me flashbacks of john Bedini's expose's on the subject.

I heard this before and wondered if it was truth or fiction, now hearing
this from you i can take hold of this as reality.

I know Thane and others in the 1900's used a variety of Permalloy thin
films in a stack formation that I have no concept of the why. No idea
about how to target the saturation vs un-saturation curves at which
permeability numbers 1000-10,000-100,000. I am at a loss to explain
all of this in detail for the moment.

Entropy charts for saturation and permeability are not my bag lately
but it will be in my sights from here on out. There is an optimum range
as you know that is probably found better through trial and error often
times than spending endless hour running precise numbers that usually
do not end the search of fine tuning.

I read Thanes Patents and he goes on about using certain numbers
in a range of a permeability. Math and understanding of basic laws
are fine while in the end offer only a dim picture of the end product.

You spent many years now searching and running the numbers, you
know what I am talking about. Something about the number of magnets
are directly related to the frequency based on RPM'S.

This is ballpark openers. Now let's say (and I do) I have a 20 pole set
of magnets, well each time the dual pole core trips all 20 at 2 grand
rpm's we can do the numbers.

I love numbers. Going to come back later and show you the unimpressive
pictures of my primitive rig. I am a rigger. Doing an experiment is what
my life has been all about.

I spend long hours experimenting with new designs and I enjoy every
minute of it. All day long my life has been one more new experiment
after another learning how to repair the latest technology.

I am old and feel like I am just beginning to catch on.

The rpm's and frequency using 20 magnets should be no problem to
calculate for resonant tuning of a coil. My current coil area is significant
when I begin to determine the number of strands to be used.

Things like this go through my mind

TO be continued......................................... ...

Talk to me Turion Man Thx Turion for being the asset you are.

[BroMikey]

Progress

3 battery motor generator setup. Matt Mod Motor and rotor
more to come.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cPNJNeuGWqA

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[/QUOTE]

[BroMikey]

The video got cut short but I ran the voltage up to 18vdc and
then dropped it back down to 15vdc with changing amp draw.
The amps climb to 4 during accelerate up to a higher rpm and once
the desired speed is reached the current goes down to 2.2 approx.
for 14.75vdc.

I have just now realized that my "C" cores are not the right size because
they do not reach across far enough to have opposing poles "N" & "S"
I remember now Thane skipping two magnets as his "C" material
is long.

This means I won't be wasting my time and with Turion's latest entry
about #12 shot bee bees and thin welding rod homemade cores I have
reconsidered what one of my first cores will be.

The first thing is to have the "C" cores the proper size.






https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cPNJNeuGWqA

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[BroMikey]

I have over 60 pounds of wire in the coils on my generator.

Here is a Thane Heins setup that is more than a proof of a concept
he has lots of wire here and just so everyone understands how much
60lbs looks like I will show you a full roll.

Each roll weights around 11 pounds and costs $100 plus dollars.

[BroMikey]

Great to have you add in some construction practices tips from
day to day, really saves a lot of scheming.

The coils packs took me a few minutes to grasp but I see it now.

With that setup, did you get much excess output on the generator
vs the input power needed to run the modified motor? Even a cop of
2 would be great.

[BroMikey]

Gotcha!!!!

The answer to that depends on your motor. Each coil pair (of mine) puts out 130 volts at 2.7 amps or 351 watts. My motor is pulling 10 amps at 24 volts or 240 watts with just ONE coil pair in place. (And this is a STOCK motor for right now) If I recover just 70% of the input energy using the 3 battery system (and even crappy little batteries are capable of THAT) I am down to 72 watts input for 351 watts output which is a COP>4 The amp draw DROPS when the load is attached, so the COP becomes GREATER and because the motor speeds up, the output also increases. But there is a baseline for you.

Now your input amps are going to go UP, as you add coil pairs, depending on the size of the magnet, the distance from the core, and the size of the core, so there is no way for me to calculate the reality of your build. What you have to do is settle on a coil that speeds up under load, and then build different rotors with different sized magnets in them and different NUMBERS of magnets in them until you see what is MOST EFFICIENT. If you get the same output from a 3/4 inch magnet as you do from a 1" magnet, why use a 1" MAGNET that has a stronger attraction to the iron core and costs you AMPS to turn the motor ?????
The amount of FLUX your core will accept at a specific speed of rotation is finite! Bigger magnets are NOT going to cram more flux into the core. MY coil pairs increase my amp draw by about 8 amps per pair, and speed up under load eliminates about 5 amps per pair, so I get an increase of three amps (3 x 24 volts = 72 watts of which 30% CANNOT BE RECOVERED USING CRAPPY BATTERIES) per coil pair. It boils down to costing me 21 watts to get back 351, but at some point the amp draw on the motor becomes just too much for it to handle.

For this reason I changed my coil holder from the one I showed you, and have gone to a configuration that eliminates most of the magnetic drag of the rotor past the coil.

Attached is a picture of the "C" cores I promised, but you do NOT need "C" cores if you wind the coils like Thaine showed you. You will get speed up under load with a standard coil bobbin that fits in the coil holder I showed.

Here is another tip about building rotors. Cut out 3 rotors from thin plastic and drill the center hole in all three. Now take TWO of them and drill holes for the magnets all the way through with the two stacked on top of each other so that the holes in both will be aligned. Now put the third piece with NO HOLES in it between the other two. You can now put your magnets into the holes in the two outside pieces, and the magnets will stick to each other through the center piece, holding them solidly in place. No glue, no muss, no fuss. You can put coils on BOTH sides of this rotor using the coil holder I showed. If you want, you can glue all three pieces of plastic to each other with just a little super glue. The thicker the outside plastic pieces, the less FLEX there will be in the rotor, and that is just one of MANY problems I learned to overcome in my build. With strong magnets and large rotors, the rotor will flex (bend ) and the magnets will hit the iron core. I use a SPECIFIC kind of plastic for my rotors, and have some other things I do to eliminate the flex of the rotor, but those are just some of my ideas. You can always go to an aluminum rotor and eliminate flex altogether.

Dave

I just took your picture!!! What an excellent post Dave. This post is a
keeper for all to see. I will ask you later some interesting questions but
for now this is what I do first.

Document the material, it is like getting a telephone call and then you
write down all of the information so later you have the details on paper
rather than trying to recall everything from memory.

Your toroid cores are another world. We will get to that.

The values in amp draw before and after speed up under load are a
giant leap forward to this group. This is the holy grail of that open door
into science we have been looking for.

Also the primary drive unit data on recovery of a large percentage adds
to COP at the end of the day.

[BroMikey]

Dave's / Turion Man's one of many coil pack designs

[BroMikey]

Hello Dave

Yes I hear you loud and clear the amps crawl right up there on
startup. Gotta be careful about the draw. Got to have switches.

Here is an example of a conventional generator torque/ cogging.

The "C" core might leave a path of escape as the rotor magnet struggles
to exit? I don't see this guys cores at all.


Here is the cruel reality for today's generator.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5D_lJka2wDg

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[ET-Power]

Whoah! ! !

Bro Mikey,

Thank you SO SO SO VERY MUCH for collecting the data and putting this all out there. MAGNIFICENT!

@ Turion, thank you SO SO SO VERY MUCH as well for contributing all that you have so graciously shared.

Spent the past few days reading every post front to back, sometimes reading the same page 2 - 3 times just to make sure I didn't miss something.

BroMikey & Turion you guys are a AMAZING!

Back to more research, THANKS AGAIN!

[BroMikey]

It is my pleasure to share my progress with you. Thank You ET.


First coil construction with a whole lot of help from everyone
coming along great. The fun begins.

[ET-Power]

Looking Cool Man, very exciting!

Thanks again for sharing and keeping everyone updated!

[BroMikey]

Fiberglass - epoxy spool finished on MOT "C" core laminates.

I have my reversible motor being mounted on the winding machine
assembly in progress. More on that soon, then the winding fun begins.

The epoxy used was the 5 minute set 1 hour cure like dough called
QuikSteel Brand. Break off a section and mix the two colors of
2 parts. Tiny holes were drilled into the fiberglass circles and also
into the metal core 1/6" deep so epoxy can be pressed into them
all. Sand all surfaces, grind and drill for excellent contact.

It might interest some of you that furniture stores throw out
electric recliner chairs for the living room have a 2 way motor.
White is common and black to black is forward and black to
red is reverse.

I have collected 10 or more of those for free in a short time.

Excellent winding machine drive motors, you will see.

[boguslaw]

Could someone translate this video : Energia Universal En Espanol [Video]

[BroMikey]

I have a light board that holds eighteen 300 watt bulbs with switches for each. AC switches don't work so well for 257 volts of D.C. Though!! Boom! They can be wired in series or parallel. I have been experimenting with that. When I connect one 300 watt bulb to a pair of coils, they light up, but the machine does not speed up under load. It doesn't speed up with two connected in parallel. It DOES speed up with three connected in parallel, but the light is so dim with 3 bulbs (900 watts of load) that you can't even tell they are on. I haven't measured the voltage output with that configuration. I guess I should. So I have lots of things to try to prove the output.

For me, the proof of success is in the data, and until I have voltage and amperage output UNDER LOAD to compare to input voltage and amperage, I won't be inviting anyone to replicate this machine as it is just too expensive. Right now I'm not entirely sure how much of the 257 open volts DC is REAL, as I haven't found a load that will use that much voltage.

Dave

Hey Dave

Nice looking machine, I know you are going to find the proper resistance
for your machine. Find it. Find the value of resistance where it speeds
up under load.

Let's say with three 300 watt bulbs in series that the resistance is 500
ohms. When a light gets power hooked to it the filament begins to heat
up and the resistance goes way down when it glows bright red.

Anyway find the value, next have a converter built that the internal
operating resistance is the same as you need WHEN the converter is
filling a bank of supercaps.

Now you will have lots of power to draw off. However if the draw to
loads interferes with the delicate balance you have created you may
need to unhook super cap banks from the process every 1 minute.

This would mean that for 1 minute your (or say 15 seconds) your
machine could do it's job filling caps with huge amounts of power
with the balanced arrangement you want and switch it out
for discharge while switching in an alternative bank for recharging.

Even if you did not do all of that you could still fill a large super cap
bank and then calculate how much you spent and how much you
collected with the machine off.

I don't know if that makes sense. I am sure other better ideas exist
this is the best I can do for you. To me this is why John Bedini
spent so much time teaching converters.

That is why John B. would always say that if you are producing a
certain type of energy you may have to fill caps alternatively
taking them out of the circuit to hold them over the load.

I know you have heard all of that Turion-Man.

Hey Turion check out my winder in that recent thread. I will
put it over here when I am done with it.

[BroMikey]

I will be posting my working finished coil winding machine soon
probably by video since I have a camera on the way in the mail.

Today I built up the universal spooling from 3/8" to 3/4" I.D. and
also added a switch box having off, forward and reverse. The switch
is easy to reach and I also have a foot switch if I need it or if I need
both hands during the winding process.