Splitting The Positive

[wantomake]

Progress indeed

BroDude,
Looks like you are ready for power making all over the place!!!

I like the bearing mounts. They will be a plus to hold the axle in place. I'm using threaded rod and it is off balance with much shaking. It may just be my rotor.

At least you are to this point in the build. Will you construct from wood or plexiglass of some type? Plexiglass or acrylic. So many different types to use.

Trying to design a good "testing" unit has been my goal. Hoping yours will produce good energy and knowledge for future replicating.

Thanks for being a part of this process.

wantomake

[BroMikey]

Yes I am still at it, got to use my winding machine ya know?

I watched Thane and I watch Dave. I wanted to listen in on everyone
like the cores being to hot if iron is used. This one is so small on the
magnet and cores are c shaped or actually square with a chip out of
them. This changes some things with the reduction of copper winding
mass concerning regulation when devices are connected at random.

My goal is different, my goal is not to successfully power all kinds of
random devices but rather keep the drive PMM below 2 amps or 3 max.

As we should all recall by now it has been stressed that the huge rotors
require the my1020 frame and will burn up as well if measures are not
found to deal with multi gen coil cogging or lock (Magnetic Lock) that
causes massive any draw increases on start up.

Not wanting to go up into the many thousands of dollars range for
general testing I decided not to abandon my smaller my1016
Matt Mod Mtr's. This keeps my price range down and lets my son also
be a working part as the smaller stuff is less dangerous.

My cores are 3/16" thick of laminate transformer iron and the magnets
are 10mm dia this with not drag down the drive motor like 2" magnets
will and fry all my work. Instead I am proceeding at the lower levels
of power drag to the drive motor.

We have been told

We have been told that the worst case for beginners is to the drive
motor as I have also burned some up already. We're told that a beginner
has to start with the properly wound coils so a series connection may
cause an energy storage and delay the response to the magnetic field.

It has been shown that most every coil when engaged on a magnet
rotor to generate current slows the drive motor down. If more coils
are added, more current is produced and at the same time the amps
can skyrocket in the drive motor.

In the case of properly wound coils (Non conventional) current is
generated as the magnets pass by the core material and at the same
time due to the delayed response does assist the rotor thereby dropping
the current draw to the drive PMM.

As more coils are added (We have been told) the lock or magnetic
cogging can become so server that the motor will just sit there and
melt. Amp draws of 100 amps can be easily reached with full size battery
banks so choices must be made to lower cogging resistance.

Getting more out than is being put in requires that
we continue to add coils that help the drive motor and offer current
while it runs at the proper rpm and at the same time find solutions
that keeps the motor from going up in a puff of smoke during the
re-starts that number in the thousands while testing.

I know it's not much but I am still at it.

[BroMikey]

Re read above posts and now I can add to it.

The Mod mtr using the 3 battery system gives us free mechanical
energy under no load conditions and under light load conditions.

The trick is to design a generator head that will not over burden the
mod mtr. and these designs actually assist the drive mod mtr so
potential COP is infinite.

Like Dave pointed out cogging can be improved as a first step by a
5/6 rotor magnet/core relationship. In this way we can add an odd
number to an even number staggering the poles so magnetic lock
does not occur all at the same time.

[BroMikey]

I bought some USA drills and China bits that were HSS for cutting
stainless steel. Here is what happens with the chinese dies and taps.

Never Ever again. Got screwed one to many times. The USA drills and
taps work great. I tried to tread a tiny 1/4" pipe and the pipes will
twist off before the Chinese dies will cut any metal, trash.

The HSS drills have a yellow tint to them so China is throwing a coating
of yellow over the top of their zhit steel. Robbers.
Here is a few second example of their metal.

Gonna get back to the "BASIC COIL as per TELSA" soon. C-U there.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_OkoOqLDws

[wantomake]

Chinese crap

Our world is polluted with much cheap made crap. Especially from china. I guess Russia knows this too.

You get what you pay for.

wantomake

[BroMikey]

Yes crap in deed and since most of the USA manufacturing companies
who used to do more of this work right here have had to depend on
China even as a supplier. China does produce good stuff but the dollar
figure is not the indicator because retailer just repackage the same
part for 5 times the price.

Dies do not cut metal either. Then the iron pipe is also in question that
is from china which compounds the problem. In the event that you find
a random seller of China produced iron pipe and poorly made trash metal
dies for threading you will be Jewed-Srewed-and-tatooed trying to get
anything done. The black iron pipe cracks and falls apart, the dies don't
cut metal so I end up with a twisted up mess if not very careful when it
should have been a snap job, not an arm breaker.
[/B]

[BroMikey]

Here are some pictures to show you my problem. Problem solved. To
thread all of the way down such a small iron tube I need to take off
40 thousandths with a grinder maybe. The cheap die does not make
for sharp points at the top of threads.

http://flyer.thenetteam.net/3batterygen/thread6.jpg


http://flyer.thenetteam.net/3batterygen/thread4.jpg


http://flyer.thenetteam.net/3batterygen/thread5.jpg


http://flyer.thenetteam.net/3batterygen/thread3.jpg

http://flyer.thenetteam.net/3batterygen/thread2.jpg


http://flyer.thenetteam.net/3batterygen/thread1.jpg


Here is what my new die looks like USA Norseman. Some dies have
gaps and open up when hitting flaws and some have more points
like this round (On the outside) yet called HEXAGON looking at the
inside pattern. Or maybe a misprint.

This one has 7 cutting teeth where the china die has 4

When I built the larger rotor last winter I noticed the pipe threading
was quite hard but not this bad as those larger pipes were 3/8"




https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oEkAA...bHw/s-l300.jpg





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[BroMikey]

Ferrite and epoxy typical to end up with a 70/30
lump of dough with each particle miles away from the next one so basically
very poor magnetic coupling and without reinforcement filler the epoxy will
shrink right up with a small amount of heat ever changing shape as
you experiment.

A lump of ferrite/epoxy without heat (150-200) and pressure (100lbs)
gives a 70/30 mix. There are a few PDF's for free energy devices that
make that statement, everbody knows.

30% epoxy is like placing 7 marbles in a 10" tube then split up the
marbles making huge spaces inbe tween around a half a marble on all
sides.

All composites must be pressed together squeezing out ALL of the glue
shown in books as BINDER. The word BINDER has a definition, like when
the pages of a book are fastened all together. You can not see the glue.

Also all of the composite books say that when making a ferrite and of
course are after a certain BH curve mixes must be made to ensure all
dust is equally spaced.

It's a long story but you can create the proper BH curves for your freq's
by using other metallic powders to get the right spaces. Epoxy does not
space particulate out.

I hope you get good results? How?

PS don't get mad, get even. If you get lucky next time you wont

You know what I mean. see fig. below. otherwise it is beautiful.

The red rings represent the magnetic field a dust particle might have.
After pressing all dust is evenly spaced with binder/filler (3%)?

It is a great looking part. Think what it could be. Well anyway look at
the second fig. You can see that the huge Ferrite chunks are coupling
to each other by way of para-magnetic dust. That mean the Ferrite dust
will be the distance apart like you need. You need spaces, yes but
non-random spaces plus the fact that the BH curve depends on the
coupling of Ferrite thru the fields of other metal dust that is not iron.

Can you see this yet? I know i am not as good a teacher as some.
The red rings should overlap and based on how much and what size
the particle spacing out the IRON, you get your BH curve properties.

We want the IRON spaced out a tad but still have a good magnetic
coupling, otherwise you will have losses. Still might be better than
a solid iron core. All I am saying is that improvements could be made
and that is all I know. Nickel Oxide would be first added then much
less of the other oxides (A whole list) Mircon Metals use to show the
listed percentages when you looked at their Toroidal cores but
removed them.

John B has video showing us his epoxy/composite press he used
for wafers of glass. He made semiconductors for years pressing
with a 100 tonne press? I'll have to go back and review his video's.
John B talked about the heat generated associated with putting
his composite materials under tremendous force. This is called
SINTERING John did all of that for decades.

Transformer iron is called grain oriented and is iron that has been
broken up thru the use of sand (Silicon) SI11 very well spaced
out iron. Key



http://flyer.thenetteam.net/3batterygen/compositecore.jpg

Many people including Dave have already pointed out that their
previous Ferrite cores have failed.. Why not try something better?

It's up to you now.








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[BroMikey]

I never said any ferrite cores I made FAILED. I know this, because I have never MADE any ferrite cores. I have USED pre-formed ferrite rods in coils MANY times, but never made any ferrite cores myself. I have made cores of steel rods, metglass, #12 shot, and metal "dust" from a machine shop, but never ferrite.

Hello Dave

I wanted to share a brief entry about composites when the shots were
fired threats and the same ole. I know you have data and I have some
also. I am not empty handed. I do my research in case someone out
there is getting confused. One man can't know everything even if he
thinks so.

Thanks for the good data and if I offer mine on your thread which I was
getting ready to do, it would be shot down simply because it comes
from me. Therefore I part ways.


As for you i always enjoy. I think if we are going to go further into
this data I should perhaps start another thread on composites.

It is quite a lengthy subject. I am very busy and don't think most people
can handle it or would mean anything to them. In other words a waste
of breath.

Not everything in a book is wrong such as what is written on chemistry
or compounds (Composites) Much can be derived. It is where I get my
starting point, looking at other experimenters data.

For instants let's take a look at a common everyday ordinary aerial. Let's
look back 40 years to the 102" whip made of glass in the 70's. I used
one on my car in the citizen radio neighborhood watch group.

This long flexible rod is pulled thru and ever smaller die to force it to
create an exothermic reaction being wett-ed out with a tiny amount
of epoxy resins (with hardener of course) 99 percent glass rope you
could tie up a pair of boots with.

After wetting this rope out and compressing it thru the diminishing hole
size it quickly sets up with all of the excess resins being completely
totally pressed out. This is why all composite processes refer to the resins
as wetting agents. A tiny fraction of the whole is resin.

Magnetite is iron oxide and is the only iron in a Ferrite composite.

I will see if it is worth my time to share this data. Nobody cares that
I am aware of. Especially not the great and powerful OZ.

But I would do anything for you. I am old and my time
is short so we will see what happens.

[BroMikey]

Everybody knows about IRON

Screen size matters, of course so buy it screened give me a break.


Magnetite and Iron oxide molecules. Iron oxide (I, II, III)


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iron(III)_oxide




MAGNETITE



So what are we talking about here, does anyone know? Nope I doubt
it so I'll tell you anyhow. Spaces. We are talking about the difference
in screen size? Yes after we talk about the molecular spacing difference.

One has more oxide spacers. I doubt anyone got that. Why bother?

most people here are already over loaded.


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[BroMikey]

Borosilicate

BOROSILICATE FIBER & MICROSPHERES

400 mesh

I'm not working out in the middle of a wooded area with no running water
this is the 21st century, buy the mesh you want and refine from there.

Buy a jack hammer if you wish, not me.


http://www.qclabequipment.com/SIEVE_CONVERSION_CHART.pdf





I have this stuff and the iron oxide and have many castings.
It's like talking to the wind. A calf starring at a new fence.

What's he talking about? All you see are the chandlers or the trees.


................................................

[BroMikey]

Magnetite iron oxide

MAGNETITE IRON OXIDE

This is magnetite rocks and sand same thing incredibly huge, buy a
grinder and jackhammer.Or you could get beyond the caveman lumps.

like putting rocks in a burlap bag and shaking it up. Or you could become
more sophisticated. Anything will work I guess.

[BroMikey]

Soft ferromagnetic composites

SOFT FERROMAGNETIC COMPOSITES

Here is to evolution if you are not to busy to read a 3 minute page.

Nothing more than rocks etched before fusing them together, see
John Bedini Video's on picking up rocks and grinding them, then
pressing them together to form a glass transistor for his amplifiers.

The rest of you who hate John Bedini go away and sulk he was blazing
this trail before you were on the fence.


Get the right mesh everything for your lump but first use solvents to clean
the exterior of them all at once or separately then flop in the binder. Stir
and press it down hard, John B showed us, where were you?


You who hate John B. go to hell with all your lies. John did his best and
anyone who says otherwise is a dumb dog.
John has some video somewhere he tells us that AS A BOY he loved rocks
and made a collection. He learned that rocks have magnetic qualities.
John B. led the way for homemade. Later he did semiconductor battery
composites. His video's showed how and what he used to press his
composites together.

Grind up powder or buy powder? I buy mine. Solvents not only clean the
outer surfaces of ground rock/mineral to be bound but also allows their
individual fields to line up and more evenly become uniformly spaced.

Solutions that etch create electrical reactions and introduce static fields
that make for a more reactive part in the end.

I am boring you all so I'll be quiet and leave you alone. I'm following
John's lead, the rest of you can go climb a tree with all your filthy hating.

You will never amount to a hill of beans or a row of peas.
Poison kills everything it gets on and all you can do is cut out the
contamination. Just like a cancer it is a bitter person.


See below refined magnetite, no gold, not random deposits that range
from zero to 99 percent who knows what?

This is the right way to proceed.







https://aip.scitation.org/doi/full/10.1063/1.4978402


https://sc01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB13zeNSVXXXXbiXXXXq6xXFXXXW/iron-dust-Fe99-iron-oxide-powder-core.jpg

[BroMikey]

Understand the principles of the 3 Battery system.
That is the answer. It is the wall.

Thanks Dave (Turion) I want to thank you for your kind regard that
points me ever in the right direction. I can't say I have it all down
perfect but I have done those beginner experiments and love the
principles you have related. So awesome, ground breaking, I really
mean that.

Recirculating energy and how to do it. Later I hope to evolve so I can use
the super caps being charged by Li-ion batteries for a light duty pack.
After my 2 gen coils kick in all I will need is a charge pack, sweet.

Step by step hardware is critical for beginners.

My generator is being worked on tonight in between postings. You have
always been there for me and I appreciate you. I bark and yell but deep
down I will always be so grateful.

I have a bundle of boosters that came and Jordan is going to use some
of the small stuff.


.................................................. ........................

[BroMikey]

WHY MOLDS STICK


For those of us who make things custom



http://www.rexco-usa.com/why-molds-stick/