Splitting The Positive

[BroMikey]

Hello everyone

i am still trying to get these batteries to float up easily, been
to long away but I wil get there plus I have many other batteries
floating already.

I ordered an inverter that is real small because the only inverters
I have are to large, it is a 750 watt 12v-110vac coming.

The thing I have been going over in my mind are the calculations
for these batteries. Whether watt/sec or watt/hrs I have decided
to get these nice batteries where I know they need to be to start
while I wait for the inverter (The UPS keeps shutting down).

The UPS circuit is not all that efficient though calculations can be
made just as well. For instance on my batteries rated at 28ah I
know they are somewhat better now after conversion to ALUM
and I have settled on a theoretical value (We will see the true value)
of 20ah of usable power as battery ratings do not reflect the
available energy in practical application.

Figure about 65% of capacity and if you get more consider that battery
to be excellent.

To establish a baseline for a battery a discharge can reveal what your
battery is capable of in the conventional sense, afterward the same
set (In this case 3 battery set) of batteries can be discharged using
the unconventional circuit layout then comparing results to determine
if the extra has been realized.

In my case a 20ah battery times 3 = 60ah

A 60ah 12v battery will provide 60 hrs of current at a value of 1amp.
In my recent UPS circuit the actual current draw to run my 10watt
bulb AND UPS circuit losses is 1.1amps.

1.1amp / 60ah = 55hours. This is how long my 13watt/sec load
should run if 60ah is the correct amount. I will see just how long
these batteries can run this little load just as I had done in the
previous tests using the lithium batteries.

This is the number of hours I should be able to run conventionally
straight off the battery nothing else.

With the split positive circuit I can see that this pumping action
taking place in all 3 batteries while also discharging energy is a
much better way to recirculated power. Much better for batteries.

I am confident that many new ideas will emerge with the split
positive circuits powering devices off of the potential difference
between a 24vdc battery and a 12vdc battery.

I have heard other inventors say that a standing wave on a battery
will keep that battery charged while reflected energy can be harvested
throughout the circuit as the energy is trapped, forever to be
reused. It's just a matter of time before a new design will take over.

[BroMikey]

Well I am back to share tonight's connection diagram which
like Dave said allows me to charge battery bank 3 or in my case
a single battery for now AND tap into the charge energy.

Like you said Dave you have to be stead after it and be sure
that the 24v set of run batteries gets the right reflected energy
so the pulse swing voltages go above and below on the meter that
will average all of the numbers. Or I could bust out an analog meter
to do the same thing.

If I set the boost converter to low the averages drop and the 24v run
set or primaries begin to lose voltage points. It is hard to keep a
perfect balance with the one charge battery so I am turning on light 2
so i can bring the voltage back down once I reach 13.95vdc. After that the
energy builds up so fast the battery will boil and we don't want to waste
power.

I am going to take this motor apart and drill some holes in the end caps
so the heat may escape that way I don't get a large build up with long
runs. I have noticed how hot my sons scooter motor is in the middle
of the summer on even short runs and this is weakness as far as I
am concerned. Heat should always be dissipated while motors run
especially such high torque units pulling around children at low speeds.

This has me wondering where I could get a real motor to work with.

I have gone through these batteries again(same ones) that is run
a DC forming charge on them, run the spike mode then GENMODE at
the end long hours to get all 3 of these batteries cooled down and
recharged up to 16vdc til they float right up.

The system is up and running.

Right now it is hanging at 14.06v and watching it slowly rise so I am
about to flip the switch on LED bulb 2 so the comes back down. In
15 minutes I will turn it back off and repeat the process.

Oops there goes the UPS alarm shutting down and I can't leave,
my room stinks and I am going to drill hole thank you. It takes
hours to get the heat up high but there is no place for it to go.

[BroMikey]

Hello to all

I drilled holes in my scooter motor and it stays very cool
however it stinks (this particular burned up motor) so bad that
even after cleaning and painting it still fills a room with that
nasty electrical smell with the brushes burning and so forth.

The weather is so hot and the humidity has been near 100% for
over a month so my work is in the air conditioning right now. I will
set one test setup in an open outdoor area in the future to get
more time and results.

I have tested this modified motor (Trying to breath over it) for 3
different days at about 4 hours per night. I have learned a lot thanks
but these composite board brush holders and hot sparking brushes
cause a sickening Oder that is unbearable to breath inside of a home.

I am running the UPS circuit again and have been wondering how a
solid state pulse circuit might look to get similar results. The tiny motor
is great and I will continue to use it and speculate.

For now I am running the UPS circuit across the split positive terminals
then taking some of that energy off the charging battery sending it to
the primaries with a cap on them.

Keeping a balanced system takes periodic adjustment here as well.
(where is that little green elf when you need him?)

This keeps me going and able to breath in this enclosed environment.

The motor gives me something to look forward to with further tests
and at the same time maybe I can either find a better motor or
mimic the action of the motor somehow.

Then if a solution can be found to copy motor action in solid state
form the booster can be connected the same way as it does using the
motor to make adjustments. Maybe I'll go read that patent now
and then this time I'll get more out of it.

[BroMikey]

Hello to all

I have repaired many many many motors in my time as a repairman
over the past 40years and so I began to search thru my motors to
see if I had a motor that had certain criteria to meet my requirement.

I found one that I will share with those of you who want to use this
motor indoors. It has the same power capacity, same approx size magnets
with way better brush holders.

This motor is a high quality magnet motor that can be run inside of your
home without ever knowing it.

Treadmill motor and it has a great flywheel, many of these electric
treadmills are thrown out everyday and the reasons vary but usually
the circuit or the belt rollers go bad.

Mine are rated at 90vdc (Who care cut the thin wire off) and 5 amps
maximum = 5amps X 90v = 450watt absolute max but running is about
3 amps on these. The motor far surpasses most dc motors.

Same approx power capacity. Put some wire on it like the modification
calls for and you are good inside the house.

Serious replicators only

[BroMikey]

Not necessarily the bedini stuff, but this joule thief is quite efficient in recycling energy back and forth....

Hey Dragon

Nice circuit over on the other thread

Maybe I will find a complete circuit somewhere, I am a bit rusty.

oscillator I quess the SG OSC in genmode is worthless?

A joule Oscillator? Hartley Oscillator? All warm current pulses.

I would like to see your circuit again if I could find it here.

http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/waveforms/astable.html

[dragon]

I'm a bit "old school" so the "Hartley" that I refer to is closer to the original replacing the vacuum tube with a transistor ....Hartley patent 1,356,763

It can be run with separate coils or split coils on a core - It's very much like a JT or blocking oscillator... there are lots of variations from the original out there because it's so versatile....

[BroMikey]

I'm a bit "old school" so the "Hartley" that I refer to is closer to the original replacing the vacuum tube with a transistor ....Hartley patent 1,356,763

Me too, all of the latest is based on the OLD SCHOOL or root circuit.
I just popped in for a short and maybe I will get time to dig up those
originals later.

In the mean time let tell you what happened.

Remember I ran the motor for 3 days and got my taste? I discontinued
and went back to the UPS and there is a huge difference. I hope to
use the old hartley and I had some really old pictures/diagrams back
when everything was a PHOTO-COPY and teletype ruled the
communications.

I like it so much on the motor I striped out an old treadmill motor
today and I am now ready to wind. But it only has 2 brushes and
I don't know if it will work.

I will try it and if it fails I will get 2 more brushes on it.


http://antena.fe.uni-lj.si/literatura/VajeVT/MMIC/priprava/Hartley_oscillator.pdf










COMPACT FLUORESCENT LAMP DRIVER

[SkyWatcher]

Hi all, i finished dragons light/charger with hartley/joule thief circuit.
Only thing different about my circuit, i don't have capacitor across base resistor and no switches yet to swap batteries.
I tried the boost converter mode, though my gutted 3.6 watt filament led bulb did not light much at all, same with non-modified led bulbs.
Then i wired the blocking oscillator in buck boost mode or classic SG mode and the led bulb lights very good and the flyback charging is also very good.
Input is 4.8 watts with 12 volt tractor batteries.
peace love light

[BroMikey]

If you can make a diagram I would be interested in seeing
the entire layout. Looks like a winner


That 'C' core drivers the high voltage to the bulb?

.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi mike, yes the TV flyback core first has 3 layers of 30 awg. magnet wire and 420 turns total.
Then on top that, one layer of 24 awg. bifilar magnet wire, as the oscillator.
It's a joule thief, with diode off collector going to the positive of another 12 volt charge battery and negative of charge battery, going to the joined bifilar wires.
Then 30 awg. secondary goes to led bulb.
If that doesn't explain it well enough, i will make a drawing of it.
peace love light

[SkyWatcher]

Hi mike, here's the circuit diagram.
It seems to be charging well, i have just been swapping manually every hour or so.
If i disconnect the diode from the charge battery, the led bulb gets much brighter, so it seems to be splitting the output.
peace love light

[BroMikey]

Hi mike, here's the circuit diagram.
It seems to be charging well, i have just been swapping manually every hour or so.
If i disconnect the diode from the charge battery, the led bulb gets much brighter, so it seems to be splitting the output.
peace love light

Great circuit now others coming by will have something to give a try.
Is this the whole circuit? I hate to be a nag but I was hoping for
a full circuit. So how does the split positive hook in?

Maybe where the 12v? So hook this to 3 batteries?

[BroMikey]

The old motor still works but it stinks. The new motor is almost done
I just done know if it will turn okay. It only has two brushes. Where
the other slow speed motor has 4 brushes. We will see.

Here is a picture of the way they look with only two long bolts
holding them together. I used an electric die grinder once again to
clean off the ends where copper circles back into the cage and drove
out the copper wire.

I also wound the wire onto the rotor and the new type of glue I am
using this time is quick dry stuff. It is already done hardening up. Take a
look at these beautiful motors.

Heavy duty bears and a fan.

[BroMikey]

I am doing some thinking out loud because I need to come to
a new connection diagram for my treadmill 2 brush motor.

If anyone knows what I need to hear please chime in stat . I have
the scooter motor with 4 poles and I am going to post a diagram of that
also but my main concern now is (Not being a motor designer) what is
the best way to hook a 2 brush commutator up.

I don't know how to hook the wires.

[BroMikey]

I will have to double check but I think on the modified
scooter motor this is how the connections look. So how would I
power up with only 2 brushes?

This picture is the 4 brush motor that I already built.