Splitting The Positive

[BroMikey]

Sorry Bromikey,
My bad, wrong link I guess?

I was trying to determine if Thane was using two banks or one. From what others have stated, batteries don't like to be powering one second then charged the next. But there are many types batteries. But I agree it needs to be supercapacitors which are much more forgiving.

I did price some larger ones, way out of reach for my experiments.

wantomake

Look at this video and you will see his battery bank as he talks about
taking power from the battery and then putting power back into the
same set of batteries. One video shows him stopping the demo to get
4 or 5 more batteries to add in because the battery pack was recharging
faster than is was discharging after he flipped the switch to ReGenX.

What a terrible problem to have frying batteries hey?
So much for all of the battery scatter at that point.

At this point the few joules that may have been lost are completely
ignored in the presence of the excess. In a normal electric car the battery
discharges and recharges at every stop light in town.

The reason Thanes work is being brought up is the fact that the
split positive work with all the accompanying motors and inverters
requires that you make a similar generator section to get the overunity
up higher in the end.

This is what Dave has been doing for the last 8 yrs. I our case one set
of batteries charges a second set (LARGER BANK) using a modified
scooter motor (OR BIGGER) as a PRIME mover while recycling battery
juice. THEN one of these flat plate flywheel disks is connected to the
Modified motor to generate, of your own flavor.

Now your C.O.P is rising up into the practical range. In the mean time
it is still loads of fun seeing all of the steps in between.



[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XaVvTtWK_5o&list=PLIz6ZnKQk8Vghunp_4ZdVJ3l ELufZicub&index=6[/VIDEO]

[BroMikey]

A quick update on slow progress yet progress none the less. I have
done very few runs as of late but what i have had time to do is make
some hardware changes to my TREAD-MILL motor.


If you might have forgotten the winding was completed last week and
now the epoxy coating is finished. Next the new brushes installed after
a carefully crafted mechanical modification was developed by yours
truly difficult to explain.

Next a loose geometry in the vicinity, the brushes were set in a high temp
filled epoxy while prop's held for true alignment.

You can see the new brushes that are added are smaller and because
5 amps at 90vdc is not needed for this test the scooter brushes will
work for now.

Only one discrepancy is the tooth timing difference, we will see. Remember
that the scooter commutator teeth had a gap dead center the POST?

And now the treadmill motor has the tooth centered over the POST.

Only a slight difference. If this needs to be changed I can saw apart
the composite where the commutator sits, rotate it 11 degrees? Or
whatever that is and RE-EPOXY.

Of course no one has a clue what I am talking about but who knows
maybe in a few years someone will see this who is interested.

[BroMikey]

I have updated this diagram to specify the difference between
the two motors. To the left is a scooter motor with a gap between
commutator teeth dead center the winding post.

The winding post is in blue and is now marked.

You will notice that to the right is another picture of a treadmill motor
in this case but the I channel (In Blue) and commutator tooth are
lined up instead of a gap.

To me that is a timing change. In any case I will see what difference
that makes. Maybe nothing to speak of.

[BroMikey]

Here is an interesting over view on snubber circuits that are being
designed to recover 80 percent of the energy that normally would
be lost and is sent back to the input.

Many of our free energy circuits have ringing that must be dealt with
and even a boost circuit will have ringing without SNUBBERS.

His idea is to control the ringing at the chip.



[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8S-C4eclB9Q[/VIDEO]

[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Z0ZXU5YPcE[/VIDEO]

[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9fEW89L71ps[/VIDEO]

[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IpNkTA6-Ilk[/VIDEO]

[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rWAdycTTb_I[/VIDEO]

[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7w1nLaOLtTg[/VIDEO]

[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cNGBICUiGM8&list=PL3F4FFB01ED01B6BD&index= 5[/VIDEO]

[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sb4yiW7MFWM&index=2&list=PL3F4FFB01ED01B6B D[/VIDEO]

[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5aYgJQQN-aQ[/VIDEO]

[BroMikey]

Hi mike, thanks for sharing, do you
have any pics or simple drawings to give more visualization.

This is my setup for today.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi mike, thanks for sharing.
Yes, very nice and efficient circuit there.
I see you separated the spike recovery into a separate battery.
My circuit is dumping that through non-modified led bulbs and into the number 3 charge battery.
How is your system working so far.
I'm topping up my batteries for some new runs without the booster.
peace love light

[BroMikey]

Hi mike, thanks for sharing.
Yes, very nice and efficient circuit there.
I see you separated the spike recovery into a separate battery.

How is your system working so far.

Well my circuit in use is the old one and here is the upgrade that doubles
the output plus I am using a 24awg for the power strand. Very small.
I am in the process of rebuilding everything I own.

I ran this test and it doubles the power out with no increase of the
input draw.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi mike, thanks for sharing.
Yes, for sure, i am also using a fast recovery diode.
Though i only have one power strand at the moment, seems sufficient for now.
I will probably increase number of power strands soon though, i would have to order some transistors and fast diodes to go with it.
This setup without the boost converter is flowing .5 amps from series batteries.
It lights the non-modified 6 watt led bulbs just as well to same light level.
Plus we know for sure all the current and coil spikes are going straight to the charge battery.
peace love light

[BroMikey]

I am shutting down the circuit after an 8 hr run of charging and
waiting for 30 minutes between battery swaps. In the past whenever
I had driven this circuit (SSSG) with some batteries to charge other
batteries the drive batteries ALWAYS went down.

Today is different, today my batteries have more voltages in them
than when I started. Or just above the break even point which is a
new thing for me.

Generally after an 8 hr run the drive batteries would have lost a
considerable amount and I would be thinking of charging them back up
the next day so i will keep doing this to see if they ever go down.

[SkyWatcher]

Nice mike, what size batteries are you using on that.
So are your voltages dropping under the loading of system and then the series voltages rise to an equal or greater standing voltage, or, are you adding all three battery voltages together at rest and you are getting equal or greater standing voltages.

I'm pretty much using the same setup as your last circuit, just only one power strand and not separately collecting coil spikes into separate battery.
Only had time for a couple runs and two rotations yesterday, as batteries were fully charged. I could only make 2 test runs of 26 minutes each, to a charge battery voltage of 15.5 volts each run.
We shall see.
peace love light

[BroMikey]

My batteries are 35ah deep cycle equivalent to the wal-wart tractor
trailer batteries for starting the engine, converted to ALUM/conditioned
radiant pulses. HUGE.

The trickle of 600ma I am sending lets me comfortably send the voltage
up to 13.5v0 to 14.00v respectively while run (series) batteries always
end up at 24.65v under load. Then are reversed. I had expected a sizable
drop in battery voltage somewhere.

I turned HER back on and we will see.

The circuit I am using is a joke compared to my best SSSG units that
charge 4 times as good for the same input on these big batteries.
We need to remember that when dealing with batteries matched chargers
and tuning go hand in hand.

[BroMikey]

I finished my treadmill motor build for modification and didn't see
at first that the timing was off by 11 degrees so I tried it anyway and
it does not work right. It just chugs and stops.

So I took out the rotor and moved the timing all over 1 teeth all of the
way around and we will see if that works.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi mike, thanks for sharing the information.
Of course mine are still in lead acid mode, though i must be hitting a node also.
Each series battery combination, is staying the same, or dropping slightly, like .01 volts and this is metered while under loading, same as you are doing.
I am charging the charge battery to 15 volts each rotation.
Test shall continue.
peace love light

[BroMikey]

Log entry on treadmill motor.

I advanced the timing one tooth and it works but you could still tell
that there was a slight conflict but not as bad so i tried to turn the
commutator but did not realize it was constructed on what looks like
graham crack type waffer as light as balsa wood. She cracked wide
open on 3 sides.

I ignorantly squeezed the outside dia to tightly but had I known the
construction I could have moved it 11 degrees. Now I know. Carbon
fiber I guess it what it is but this stuff is very weak.

I have something to learn with.

[BroMikey]

Hi mike, thanks for sharing the information.
Of course mine are still in lead acid mode, though i must be hitting a node also.
Each series battery combination, is staying the same, or dropping slightly,
like .01 volts and this is metered while under loading, same as you are doing.
I am charging the charge battery to 15 volts each rotation.
Test shall continue.
peace love light

Yes mine is staying way up. Here is what is going thru my mind at this
point about what we are doing. The SSG has always done well but our
circuits use the coils from the SSG with no rotor magnets or mechanical.

We are missing out on the mechanical aspects where large magnets can
be driven by out same coils and as we have witnessed with Peter L. can
use a good number of generator coils to collect up the excess energy.

In other words we are watching our circuits run with almost a zero loss as
the batteries are rotated and recharged thru and excellent home brewed
boost converter, that is what it is.

This is a far cry from any practical application but it is nice to see my
meter reading for voltage stay at the top while running this circuit 2
days straight.

Sizing and tuning

Batteries must have a perfect level of voltage pressure to match the
size, if to large charging is done to quickly, if to small never charge
completely and in each case energy is lost over time.

To fast means heat and waste, to slow means there is not enough
energy to overcome plate resistances. It has to be perfect.

You can get 4X charging effects by comparison if things are tuned.

I have SSSG converters that using the same input (ON LOW) using a
huge coil and large powerful transistors and fast diodes charge a battery
so much better over the same time, you would be in disbelief.

The circuit i am using right now is a joke on huge deep cycles as it was
designed only for cordless drill batteries and AA's.