Splitting The Positive

[SkyWatcher]

Hi mike, sorry to hear about the motor issue.
I hear what you are saying about matching and tuning, i think i just ran into that issue.
The only difference and possible cause of the series combination now dropping in voltage under load is.
All previous tests, i allowed a resting period of at least 5 hours and a couple over night rest periods.
It is also possible i am charging the charge battery too fast, 13.5 watts with pulses and spikes, it might not like that much spike power, or the charge battery needs a rest.
Or it is not tuned properly, in one rotation, charge battery climbed from 12.81 to 15 volts in 40 minutes, that might be too fast, especially with coil spikes.
i will let it rest overnight and see how the behaviour changes.
peace love light

Edit: ok, i think i have the circuit tuned and matched better now.
I am seeing the charge battery hold it's voltage far better when placed in the series position, where as previously, it was falling rapidly under load, as if it did not absorb the energy of pulses and spikes efficiently.
Time for bed.

[BroMikey]

Hey Sky good deductions and changes.

Keeping at it always puts you making the grade to the next level.
Since you mentioned slowing down the charge let me give you some
numbers and then I will show you a construction of a factory commutator.

If your battery is at 12.8v during a 1 amp charge current it will fall
back to 12.2v? Something like that and that is a 25% charged battery
approx. A 12.5v battery is said to be 50% charged and a 12.7v is full.

Using the "C - 20" charging rate it should take 5 hrs to raise the joule
count 25%.

Here is what it takes to rebuild my commutator. First a need a 3D printer
or a composite injection molding machine with a highly precision mill
cutter for slots after the brass is ground and bend into claws on both
ends and sides of the wire keepers. Not a very simple task.

How about this one from up state for $4?? Here is the one
I actually bought.





http://www.ebay.com/itm/15mm-x-32mm-x-22mm-
16-Gear-Tooth-Copper-Shell-Electric-Motor-Commutator-/321072431469?hash=item4ac168816d:g:nicAAOSwDNdVlXC f

[SkyWatcher]

Hi mike, thanks for the helpful tips and sharing.
I think i was driving the voltage up too quickly on the charge battery and it was not given the proper time to absorb and so contained too much surface charge.
I do remember from bedini videos, he never forced charged his batteries with pulses and spikes, he mentioned the battery has its own natural time.
It seems to be charging far better now and no heat in transistor, where as previously, it did have some heat and base resistor was getting hot.

It's too bad, i had a nice 120 volt treadmill motor not long ago, but it was in shed and the moisture rusted it out, it had that very commutator.
What gauge magnet wire are you going to use on it.
peace love light

[BroMikey]

Learning PIC programs to build a battery switcher.

[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HVQ4tj-D8jM[/VIDEO]

[BroMikey]

I am going to attempt to share a comparison result with everyone
who is interested in the TESLA SWITCH 3 BATTERY recycling systems.

First I will start by reminding each of you of a baseline I had previously
established for discharging my particular batteries. I have 4 batteries
and all four of them discharge the same because they are all the same
size/type battery.

Here is your reminder:

Using a single 12v battery connected to a very small inverter (As shown)
at a 1 amp pull (1000ma) the voltage will drop down from the resting
voltage of 13.20vdc to around 12.75vdc running. Once the inverter has
been running for several minutes the voltage will no longer continue to
drop rapidly but will maintain a steady slow decline.

In my case the reminder is the fact that with my batteries (All 4) decline
at a rate of .01v per 5 minute period. This was determined by experiment- ation.
For example with my inverter running at a voltage of 12.65vdc the
and after 5 minute the meter reading 12.65vdc.

Remember that this is for a 5 minute run.

That means between 12.85v all of the way down to 11.50vdc there are
11ah available from my battery. The battery will recover at rest to well
past 12.00vdc. But most 14ah batteries should only give up a max of
less than that to preserve the battery. Say 2/3rds or 9ah.

Okay, have you got that? Now look at these figures. Now I am using
2 of my batteries in series where the difference splits up with one battery
charging battery "C" and the other battery running the booster and
modified motor. Not a motor, I didn't that, I said "modified Motor" so
please make a note of that. A modified motor is not the same as a motor
as much as many of you choose to think.

So now I will show you the circuit with all of the figures. What do you
say about this? Keep in mind that the run batteries are sending 1 amp
at 24.83v down to 24.80v for 1 hr not 5 minutes. Did you get that?

Oh well if you can't see what this shows no one can do anymore to
help you without you doing this yourselves. The run batteries stay up
and the charge battery GOES UP while the 10 watt load burn brightly.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi mike, thanks for sharing.
Looks like nice results so far.
So you are only getting a .03 volt drop, under loading across series batteries, compared to .24 volt drop, under loading with the baseline tests, is that correct.
I see you have you have it setup different to what i am doing, you have the inverter across the charge battery, i should give that a try when i finish my experiment.
What kind of small inverter and specs. are you using off the charge battery, thanks.
peace love light

[BroMikey]

Hello Sky

Yes that figure might be correct for running a full 24.83 watts out of the
run batteries. To make a long story short I ran this setup to a simple
mini inverter across the positives and we can learn much by comparing.

With the mod motor running measurements show it takes
12 + watts while the light takes a little over 10 watts with inverter losses. And the recharge battery
gets 2.6watts as it slowly climbs.

This is where the system is stable with the run batteries. I am wasting all
of the mechanical by not having a generator it which I am certain that a
couple of coils the size of your chainsaw spark magneto would do the same
thing that a riding lawnmower does when it charges the big battery.

If I let the charge battery climb up to fast the run batteries go down more
quickly so keeping the charge battery voltage from c running away is
important. Anywhere from 12.70v to 13.50volts works well or remains
stable.

There is a place where you can draw some power off while the run batteries
decline slow. I think the key with this mod motor system is to keep
that balance while the mod motor runs nearly free so a generator of the
right kind can bring up the COP dramatically.

This reminds me of the IMPULSE TECH where if you hit the right node
you can run devices in between for almost free. A pumping action must
be present first. The 3 battery lets us set up a pumping circuit where
energy flows or is circulated WITHOUT burning everything back to ground.

This is only the beginning. Next it is up to each man to bring up the COP
by creating more nodes that operate for free. If you haven't understood
whatJohn Bedini teaches about impulse technology BUY that
ENERGY FROM THE VACUUM video on "IMPULSE TECHNOLOGY".

Very little exists on that subject under that heading.

Here is a video I made when I first started to understand.


http://energyfromthevacuum.com/Disc7/


[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSppzzXWG6c[/VIDEO]

[BroMikey]

Here is a preview of what John B. teaches in the DVD.

An "IMPULSE NODE" is a place in tuning.

An "IMPULSE NODE" is a place where energy is already being recirculated and
a coil of wire allows the energy to pass in the primary circuit and then
sets up a secondary energy flow WITHOUT taking away from the primary.

Or as we have seen very little draw on the primary with the secondary
node producing like crazy.

In the second example both an electric node and mechanical are producing.

Again the principle of creating an "IMPULSE NODE" is to tap into a
circuit that already has a predetermined function that will induce
energy into it's node/circuit/ tuning without altering the primary
pumping.

In these two examples the primary pumping action is a 3 battery system
where 2 run series batteries connected to a booster feeds a coil that
dumps into a charge battery. The coil or the motor can be poorly
selected and no increase will occur.

The object of the primary circuit is to make a system that can pump
energy around and around in circles without losing energy. We have all
heard the phrase "Don't Kill the Dipole?" In other words don't disturb the
energy in the first circuit and using a tiny portion make more.

A simple definition of an infinity more complex subject especially on
the electric and mechanical node.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi mike, thanks for sharing the good information.
I notice you have a coil directly off the boost converter, splitting the positives.
Are you saying a boost converter gives pulsed DC, as i thought it was capacitor smoothed, pulsed DC.
Or is that shown, assuming one would pulse the coil somehow, as i'm doing, thanks.
peace love light

[BroMikey]

Hi mike, thanks for sharing the good information.
I notice you have a coil directly off the boost converter, splitting the positives.
Are you saying a boost converter gives pulsed DC, as i thought it was capacitor smoothed, pulsed DC.
Or is that shown, assuming one would pulse the coil somehow, as i'm doing, thanks.
peace love light

The coil seeing the pulsed energy like all pulse DC that is like an AC also.
Therefore the pulsed DC in an AC coil must be rectified. The energy
drawn off can far far surpass what little it cost to energize that coil.

Or it can also be the other way around where the coil is wrong and the
energy extracted form the system will directly kill the circulating power,
drain it out 10X faster than what you get off of the poorly designed node.

What we want is to tune into circulating energy without disrupting the
pump. In the case of the coil coming off the booster this would further
boost up the voltage, would it not? Something like the coil in the Mod
Motor does.

However the mod motor also stops and starts the energy begin stored
in it's own motor run coils dumpped to the charge battery and created
another anomaly I am not prepared to explain.

Where you are asking about the coil after the booster, the reason for
putting it there is to get the secondary extraction of energy and at the
same time not lose any power charging the battery.

That coil might be only 10-20 turns of 16awg wire, wire that can handle
10 amps. A coil with thick wire being that short will not slow the charging
of battery "C" yet might be coupled to a longer and thinner coil to get
any voltage.

I did some coils CW and some coils CCW but I don't have much time doing
this yet. In my video you see 4 or 5 coils on the same spool. I used Ferite
to put into the core area.

I have heard some say they made a node that surprised them enabling
them to charge a large battery off what seems to be almost no energy.

The reasons for this are unknown, tho these nose obviously exist.

[BroMikey]

Hi mike, thanks for sharing the good information.
.
Or is that shown, assuming one would pulse the coil somehow, as i'm doing, thanks.
peace love light

One more thing I have heard that is so important about the TESLA SWITCH
and other special energy producing circuits. What makes them produce
better is a quick cutoff on the waveform. The Mod Motor is very abrupt
so don't forget this.

A spark gap is abrupt.

The right pulse circuit able to cut off abruptly in 5 nanoseconds. Easy to
say and not so common of a circuit to produce. I almost left out this
important fact.

Rise time can be longer in mirco-seconds but fall time is the key.

So if we want to mimic the Mod Motor we need a circuit that is
extremely abrupt when turning "OFF" pulses.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi mike, thanks for sharing, ok yes, i see the thought direction you are going in.
Which is one of the reasons i picked out the high speed transistor and diode.
I wonder if the led bulbs i have in my circuit, are limiting or extending the abrupt fall time of the coil in the oscillator circuit, which is not what we want it sounds like.
And this would mean, keeping that part of the circuit clear of parts, that might slow down the abrupt turn off of coil we seek and instead, power bulbs, etc. off the charge battery.
My experiment is still going, though the series batteries are now crossing slightly below 12 volts under loading, how far do you think i should take them down under load.
Very close to break even point, as far as what is burned in oscillator circuit and led bulbs.
peace love light

[BroMikey]

Yes Sir Sky

Right again the nano-second cutoff will help. To your light bulb it means
producing the same amount of light for far less energy.

One more thing another gentlemen told me. He uses 2 and 3 fast recovery
diodes to help with the abrupt turn offs as well as IGBT's. IGBT's can look
just like an ordinary stamp but their ability for a fast cutoff function
is far superior to other devices.

The reverse action due to extreme cut off evidently keeps the source
energy supply much higher by either being more miserly with input power
or that the abruptness calls on aetheric energy somehow.

It may be that abrupt discharges even at such low voltages might cause
a rip in the fabric of space that requires filling. Disruptive discharges are
often only associated with a HV Tesla coil, but the principle works at many
power levels.

Someone I talked to on the phone this week says he is using micro-amps
on his MRA which is a piezo element/transducer (That beeper on an inverter)
tied to a stack of magnets resonates using very small amounts of energy
yet the node that he created allowed him to take a tiny bit off the system
without effecting the dipole. He is charging a 26volt bank of batteries
on what seems like zero power.

He uses a Ferite core with a tiny 8 filar litz wire only a few feet long putting
the winding in series to run up the voltage at his node. It works and no
one can explain why. Stumbling onto effects have taught inventors much.

[BroMikey]

Here is yet another stable run with the 10.5watt light bulb running
off of the charge battery. I let the system set for a day and ran down
batteries by connecting the inverter directly measuring how many points
on the scale the drop was. As I said before even with less than one
amp draw at 800ma the battery voltages drop many times faster
than does this Mod Motor powered by booster.

I ran a second test to compare with the first test to see how many points
the run batteries dropped. It turned out to be the same.

I have estimated that the motor should be consuming 13.20 watts based
on calculations while the battery gets only 2 watts or so and then the
10.2watts to the light. Yet the charge battery goes up, the run batteries
stay up other than a slight drop. The only conclusion I have come up
with is that the Mod Motor Tesla Switch is dumping and pumping power
to and from the run batteries.

[Wistiti]

Hi bro! I also acheive better result with a load on the 3rd batt side. It is a bit tricky to adjust the 2 load but it give longer run time wile running more things.
Good work guys!