Splitting The Positive

[BroMikey]

You don't get rid of the boost module to use the charge circuit.
You only get rid of the boost module if you find a better way to assure
you have that 2.5 voltage difference.

Now to this circuit you ADD a little charging circuit that is in parallel with the motor (load) so that it can run without costing you anything. It is used to charge up the batteries in position 4.



Dave

A picture is worth a thousand words.

[BroMikey]

When you pulse a coil in parallel with the load
in the three (or four) battery system, The voltage goes THROUGH the
coil as a pulse and into battery 3, charging it. At the same time, because
of induction, a spike is formed in the OTHER wires of that same coil, and
they are connected to battery four through your charging circuit,
charging it. I use a cap with either a neon or a zener, so that the cap
fills up to the point where the neon or zener will complete the circuit
and dump the cap.

This is what came to mind as one possible mod in response to this post.
Feel free to correct any diagram you see.

PS: I was out in the sun with no tee shirt tending the pool for 10 minutes
at around 1 oc and got a dern burn already. Itching and nettle pokes
driving me insane.

[wayne.ct]

The negative of the output of the boost module

I'll draw up the charge circuit with part numbers when I get the chance, but here is the way it goes together. The BASIC circuit is without any of the red lines.

The charge circuit adds the red lines. I show the charge circuit positive connected between the boost module and the motor to pick up the positive. I have been thinking about moving that connection to the other side of the motor so that the motor, with its built in off time, controls the pulsing of the coil. Haven't looked at that yet, but it is on my list.

Dave

In the attached jpg, what does the negative of the output of the boost module connect to, if anything?

[SkyWatcher]

Hi all, thanks turion for sharing.
Hmm, what about connecting the output of the charge circuit (in my case, i will use my stingo charger) to battery 3.
I will be trying this tonight, though i will be using a 12 volt 7 watt led bulb, instead of motor.
peace love light

[BroMikey]

I'll draw up the charge circuit with part numbers when I get the chance, but here is the way it goes together. The BASIC circuit is without any of the red lines.

The charge circuit adds the red lines. I show the charge circuit positive connected between the boost module and the motor to pick up the positive. I have been thinking about moving that connection to the other side of the motor so that the motor, with its built in off time, controls the pulsing of the coil. Haven't looked at that yet, but it is on my list.

Dave

Thanks for the picture, I knew I was reverting back to old thinking
with my diagrams. I got to keep this on my mind. Then I will update
my diagram.

[SkyWatcher]

Ok, thanks turion, i only have 3 - 12 volt lead acid batteries at the moment, so that is why i will connect the output to the 3rd battery.
Then i will use the 24 volt motor i have and connect a prop on it or something, for some useful cooling of me body.
peace love light

[BroMikey]

I am still looking at this diagram. This is how my kind of
boost circuit hooks up and it has a 400 watt ceiling plenty
of head room. Thanks Dave

[SkyWatcher]

Hi all, oh well, i kind of figured that would be the case, can't use the output from the stingo to charge the 3rd battery, unless i use a separate strand from the multistrand coil.
Turions drawing is correct mikey, you dont need to connect the negative output of the boost converter to anything, probably because it's already connected internally.
I know, because i'm running this 24 volt scooter motor off the positive of my boost converter, into the positive of the 3rd battery.
Will this stock motor give any magic i wonder.
peace love light

[BroMikey]

Sky,
A stock motor CAN work, but the EFFICIENCY is the problem.

I don't know if either of you have built John B's Zero force motor, but
I've got tell you that I truly believe it is the GREATEST gift John left us.
Built correctly (and there are multiple replications out there on YouTube
that are correct, including several by John) that motor runs on
NO AMPS, almost PURE voltage. There are so many ways that a
motor like that can be used.

Every SINGLE thing that we need to make working systems has been
given to us. I have working systems because I have taken those
pieces and put them together.

I will say one last thing about John's stuff. He was warned early on
about showing too much and so he built small toy machines to
show us principles.

Wow what can i say. Resting from his labors.

Turions drawing is correct mikey, you dont need to connect the
negative output of the boost converter to anything, probably
because it's already connected internally.

Hello Sky

Yes you are right many of them are internally connected unless you
get the bigger ones sometimes like mine that allow for isolated
grounding. Then you have to connect them somewhere.

[BroMikey]

Think the ones you had posted looked like this but I am not sure
on the voltages. This $2 unit might work.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/150W-Boost-Converter-DC-to-DC-10-32V-to-12-35V-Step-Up-Voltage-Charger-Module-/192120373402?hash=item2cbb44409a:g:KyMAAOSwax5Yu3V Q

[BroMikey]

This is the one I bought but you got to hook up the grounds.
Somebody blew one of the smaller one's up so I got this one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-Controlled-400W-Constant-Voltage-Constant-Current-DC-Boost-Converter-US-/292081800462?hash=item44016e950e:g:xxgAAOSwyltZXGC 3

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[SkyWatcher]

Hi all, i figured out a way to do some testing, even though i only have 3 tractor batteries.
I'm using my 400 watt boost converter, run normally from a computer power supply.
Then, I'm using that, at 25 volts output voltage, in place of the 2 primary batteries.
I am then using the stingo charger between the positives, into a tractor battery.
Then, using the output from the stingo, into separate tractor batteries.
At least this way, i can do some testing and measure what the boost converter is using, minus losses.
peace love light

[SkyWatcher]

Hi all, interesting numbers so far.
Input to boost converter = 11.67 volts at 1.15 amps = 13.42 watts.
Output from boost converter = 25 volts at .49 amps = 12.25 watts.
Output from stingo radiant pulses = 13.8 volts at .29 amps = 4 watts
Total watts out = 16.25 watts
Ratio input/output = 121% output
peace love light

[BroMikey]

Hi all, interesting numbers so far.
Input to boost converter = 11.67 volts at 1.15 amps = 13.42 watts.
Output from boost converter = 25 volts at .49 amps = 12.25 watts.
Output from stingo radiant pulses = 13.8 volts at .29 amps = 4 watts
Total watts out = 16.25 watts
Ratio input/output = 121% output
peace love light

great work Sky

Spool update twin gen coil COP 3 and up, build. Costume spools to
fit my winder that are heavy duty. 2" spools 5/8" width. See the
heat swollen ends. See drawing above for construction plans.

A total of 24 spools are in progress for this tiny build. However
learning to wind coils of any size that speed up your rotor under
load is no small thing to me.

[BroMikey]

Spool construction in progress. Refrig parts of low density PE gets
butchered by unruly hole saw hack.

http://flyer.thenetteam.net/3batterygen/spoolconstruct6.jpg


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