Splitting The Positive

[BroMikey]

I realized my stingo was for some reason, not showing charging into an
equal voltage 12 volt battery

So now using 3 battery setup again, though this time, using the re-emf
charger setup by rene.
peace love light

Sounds complicated, make a video if you can so others will understand
too. I just picked up some chargers that are 97 percent efficient that
are as close to 100 as you are going to get.

The main thing is that you get completely familiar with what your
battery is capable of in terms of the amounts it can deliver and low
plate resistance is good also. Sounds like some circuits do that.

[BroMikey]

Resumed Baseline Testing

Last night I got tired and went to bed so I unhooked the battery at
4:10am the battery voltage was 11.67v. Next day at 1:40pm I started it
back up and the voltage had recovered to 11.75v and now it is 2:10pam
and I just checked the voltage again 30 minutes later and the number is
11.65v.

So as can be seen the battery recovered over night and is now lower than
last nights volts. 15 minutes later it is 11.64v. This is an important thing
to point out to you.

WATCHING THE VOLTAGE DROP AT SO MANY POINTS PER HALF HOUR
OR PER HOUR. Right now I am watching the voltage go straight down
as witnessed by the meters. The amps are holding steady at 485ma

The reason I point to the declining voltage is because when i hook my
rewound scooter motor up to it with 1 or 2 boost converters to balance
out the system the voltage drops so slightly my cheap meter can't read it.
My more expensive meter shows voltage declines like this.

Normally the voltage is read 12.20v and if it goes down it will look like
this 12.19v on the cheapo, however another meter might read like
this.

And this is how small of an increment that the mod mtr drops 12.195v
I had to wait so long for my cheapO meter to drop that I went looking
for my meter that shows the extra digit.

So if you tune your scooter motor timing and boost it to balance the
3 batteries instead of a .19v-.18v per 30 minutes your reading may
look like this .195---.194---.193 and so on down the line which is
a 10 fold reduction in battery usage.

Explain it? Not me. That is all i know about the mod mtr. But I do see
the meters and know my batteries capability.

My mine always goes back to the BIG MACHINE John Bedini called it.
His large coils were connected in series and he was getting assisted
rotor action for whatever the reason. Same here, for some unbeknown
reason assisted rotor energy is entering from somewhere.

It's almost time for a video at 3:00pm that marks a 24hr period for this
batteries decline. It's a 16ah deep cycle the highest quality money can
buy.

[BroMikey]

24 hrs of battery measurements

Thanks to John Bedini I found Aaron and his site.


https://youtu.be/_5KiF0HctCA

[BroMikey]

Battery voltage

As of 8:00 O'clock putting me at the 29 hr mark voltage is 11.30v
and the amps are still right at 490ma. So a 30 point decline in 5 hrs.

If the curve continues (I don't think so) it won't reach 10.50 to trip
the alarm till tomorrow. Using our adjusted watt average of 6.35 w and
multiplying by the 29 hour run this far :

Let's lower that down to 6.30 watt average so then

6.30 X 29 = 182 WATT/HOURS from the 16ah 12v battery. Luc was
getting 70WATT/HOURS for a single new 5AH battery so using his
number I will need more than 3X that or 210WATT/HOUR because
this is a 16ah

Looks like i may reach that figure sometime this morning and I go to
bed around 3 am for the past 40 years. Luc's drain current was around
150ma and mine is over 3 X that at 500ma which is right in line with
the size of the battery. Looks like a C36 hr rate?

So my maximum draw within the C20 rate I can run 800ma.

I know that many of you think this is boring but we must see what our
battery can hold before we can go for the extra and really be sure
we are getting any.

[BroMikey]

Battery Voltage Dropping

At 10:45pm the voltage dropped below 11v and is now reading 10.98v
staying close by so I hear the ringing go. It stinks of an acid
smell as it gives off it's last breath of energy. Got to go open the
door. I'll be back soon. If is goes to 1:00am or 3:00am I'll chime in
and show the figures.

Deja Vu the last time i ran figures like this that takes hard work
another site deleted them all and I have seen very few people on the
web doing this boring job, with the exception of Luc.

Can't wait to see the look on all the faces when i split the positive
with this same inverter and send some back to the front end with
a small boost converter that operates in the 97 percent efficient
range.

BRB

[BroMikey]

Final Battery Baseline

Excuse me did i say 36hrs? No it wasn't it only ran 34 hrs at around
a 6.2watt average multiplied by 34 hrs or

6.2 X 34 = 210 watt/hours

The 24 hr mark was 3:00 pm and at 1:00 am I disconnected.

The battery is dead so I connected it up to the 3 battery function.
More video coming


https://youtu.be/bHDifuYTtNQ


-------------------------------------------------------------

[BroMikey]

It takes a while to upload and process video, I'm going to bed.

It is going up now. I am camped out for the night.

The Split Positive to Inverter video start time out is 1:45am and it is
now just about 5:00 am now and after a little over 3 hours the
battery differential has dropped from 14.8v beginning to 13.12v now.
The two run batteries are at 12.38v and 12.34v each having a
12.60v sitting

The amps have dropped to 550ma and the charge battery has risen
from a 10.50v after resting 45 minutes is now 11.61v.

Looks like i will leave it run 8 more hrs till I get up so my battery
keeps going higher, then i'll start thinking about when to connect
the boost circuit at around 12.2v ? I think?

[BroMikey]

https://youtu.be/tY46iaY0-5w








I let the circuit run over night so I could get some charge back into
my battery and the inverter is taking the controlled amount of current
that it is designed for just as it did in the first test and at 8:30am I
got up to use the restroom and here is what I saw.

The differential was 12.58v, batteries 1 & 2 were 12.24v & 12.22v
and battery 3 was only up to 11.91v so I went back to bed.

I had to get up at 11:30am today and checked my batteries. They
all read the same reading. Battery 1 &2 were 12.13v & 12.12v while
the differential voltage was 12.11v with the charging battery charging
away the reading was 12.13v the amp draw was the same at 500ma.

At the beginning of testing straight off the battery the amp draw
was always a little bit higher at 550ma and after the experiment or
run got going the amp draw pretty much stays the same at 500ma
in both setups.

I could give a rats rear end, i am a regular guy with a garden light running
a pulse between positives that is using new split positive hook up that
is suppose to increase my time for the light.

I just don't know, so I am trying it. I stopped the run because all
batteries are equal. Time to connect the booster. I need 68 hrs to
break even on my time in the garden lighting.

[BroMikey]

The experiment is stopped and this is a copy of battery voltages
with an average current draw of 500ma going to the inverter.

It appears that this device is becoming over compcated, this is a simple
device . To answer the question about the 12 volt battery it is charged at 15 volts anything below that the battery is not charged. You must bring the battery
to the end of the charge curve. You need the reserve energy to get the correct
Amp Hrs. In the demnstration I gave with the three battery system the balancing of the voltage is important weither we use 3 volts or 24 volts that is
not important, it's the differnce potential energy to charge the third battery
You must chose the load very carefully for this process to work. The load must run and charge the third battery.
John

John,
I understand what you are saying, and I understand the original intent of the 3 battery system. It was to rotate the three batteries and all three would remain charged. If the load was right.

What I stumbled upon quite by accident was that if you have the right "bad" battery in the third position, something happens, almost as if a gate is opened, and you can run the setup WITHOUT rotating the batteries...battery three increases in voltage, and sometimes even the primaries (batteries one and two) increase in voltage, and the motor runs loads while a load is also across battery three. In over eight years of experimenting with this setup, I have seen that happen several times. The first time it happened, it lasted for several weeks and I thought I was going to be rich. I have seen it last for days. I have seen it last for hours. Then suddenly it stops happening and the primaries begin to discharge. On two occasions when it was "working" I disconnected all the connections on the batteries and discovered that battery 3 had flipped polarity. It is possible that this is what has happened EVERY time it has been "working".

Several other folks have replicated this setup WITHOUT rotating the batteries and seen the same thing, although from the reports I have gotten the best anyone has had was a run of a couple days before it quit working. What we HOPED to find was a consistent method of getting a battery in the third position to achieve whatever state it needs to be in for this "gate" to open. We have not been able to do that yet.

As I said, I think it is about getting battery 3 to flip its magnetic polarity, not its electrical polarity, although I believe it flips its electrical polarity at the same time. But just because it flips its electrical polarity doesn't mean it has flipped its magnetic polarity.

So at least what I have been working on is not the same as the original intent of the circuit you were demonstrating, because I was NOT rotating the batteries. I realize that may just confuse folks, but I wanted to be sure that the difference between the two experiments is clear, even though the circuit is exactly the same.

Dave

Dave, Matt,
I do understand what you’re both saying. I’m just trying to give a little history on the three battery system. The lead acid battery is much different in its makeup as if you study the battery you will find that three currents take place in that battery to move things along. I cannot get into the currents here as it would take forever to explain it. I also have seen batteries develop a semi magnetic fields; this experiment will show that the lead acid battery can be quickly charged with the use of powerful magnets in alignment across the plates. I think you guys are doing great work and I’m not here to interfere with your progress. Peter told me about this and I said I would go look and read everything.
At a different point in time I will discuss what the coil is and how quantum mechanics plays an important part in all of this and how you get the extra energy out of the system. I did write a paper for University of Edinburgh along with Dave Clemons that explained the way the coil works in the system as an energy pump and how the SSG in attraction mode works. This is why I said, the Back EMF is always lower than the battery voltage. If you look at the coil in space it can be viewed with vectors all pointing in but not coupled to form energy. As the coil is pulsed compression and decompression takes place these vectors get sucked in through the Bloch Wall while it is in compression mode forming magnetic poles, North and South. This was never released to the public as it would drive everybody nuts. The Engineers at the school answered me with; we never looked at it this way. But the analyses were correct and explained why some machines work better in different areas of this God forsaken planet. Yes Gravity plays an important part in all of this. It’s only a matter of time when you will tap that Gravity wave for energy as that is where my experiments have led me in my work. I know you will read this many times to understand what I have just said and you all know the meaning of this if you do it. If we take this further you now have discovered the answer to the TPU. Some say that the Shaman resonance is responsible for this but the energy is driven by gravity that permeates everything throughout space it’s just a matter how it’s taped for energy. Solid state devices detect this wave if arranged correctly and then the TPU becomes not complicated anymore with windings and high frequency’s oscillators that is what powered Tesla’s car, the box with many vacuum tubes, so again the term Free Energy is wrong as you must put some form of energy in to start the process of conversion and hope you get more out.
Just remember that the energy cannot be destroyed it can only be converted into another form, for example the last version of the SSG. The unit converts the spikes and then filters it to be used with a Linear Amplifier Regulator. Just something to think about, so keep up your good work at least your group is getting somewhere here with this type of system. Good work all. I’m honored that you all would mention my early work, so thank you all.
John Bedini

[BroMikey]

Got it running and balanced out for my first try.

Starting at 2:00am and counting. My differential is 12.55v

It's 4:00am and my diff. is 12.75v the 2 runs are 12.18v and the
charge battery is 11.70v at 2:00am the charge batt was 11.85v
so it looks like divergence or a greater potential difference

https://youtu.be/a48H03Y9LmE

[BroMikey]

I got up at 1:30pm the fuse had popped again so I checked the
voltages. A1 &B2 were 11.86 and 11.84 the charge went way up
due to no power being sent back to the front end at 12.12 all
these voltages while the circuit runs.

I tried the booster again with 2 separate battery banks and is works
normal, it seems non isolated converters will not work with this
inverter. Learning the hard way.
back and forth unstable, finally I ran it again with a 70,000uf cap
across the boosters source battery or C3 to see if that might help
and I was able to adjust it way better, then it just popped.

Looks like I'll have to rotate the batteries sometime down the road
unless my other 2 converters come in time in the mail.

Maybe a blocking cap could allow the use of a non- isolated booster?

After running the little booster to charge up the front end it popped
after 20 minute but while my battery C3 was under a load and being
charged the voltages were 11.76v again the run batteries were 12.02v
and 12.04v during operation at this time.

The only other time I have used a boost converter was an isolated one
and I had not trouble with stability.

The inverter does not like my 900 watt common ground booster so
it looks like for switchmode inverter circuitry the isolation is a must


It is 6:30pm the run batteries are 11.74v and 11.76v the charge is
11.81v and the diff is 11.51v More video soon.

[BroMikey]

It doesn't look good. Going south well before time.

All of my goofing around burning power and using a joule thief at
poor efficiencies and burning out one booster, I fear has doomed
my run. But I hope everyone is getting the idea on how to hook
one of these up if they get the right circuits. The right tuning
might make for a better test.

Thus far i have little control.

Can't give up tho it is to much fun.

I had a digital booster that gave me perfect control but these same
tests go south all about the same, however i have never documented
the exact data points.

It is 8:30pm

The differential is maintaining right at 11.44v while the other readings
decrease. A1 & B2 are 11.52 and 11.54 the charger has raised B2 two
data points at the expense of 550ma at 11.71v on the charge battery.

https://youtu.be/tZuF7yZ9Vvs




It's 9:30pm run batteries 11.48v & 11.51v boost circuit raising B2 three
data points. Diff is 11.39v and the charge battery 11.66v





It is 12:30am Sat morning

A1 & B2 11.28v & 11.35V with a diff of 11.18v and the charging C3 11.51v

It's almost 2:00am and I just swapped out the mickey mouse joule thief
one one of my smallest 4 channel SSSG bedini oscillators that gives me
more Horse power up to 20 watts. I is running at a full amp on the input
off the 11.45v Charge C3 battery then boosting to (IN GENMODE) to 23v
maybe 400ma is my guess after the translation has always been that
amount.

This drives the Charge (C3) battery down and pushes up the run side
to achieve a greater differential. My diff. was down to 11.04v and I did
not like that. I am starting to become aware more of the objective.

Keep the run side up high and the charge side down at a low resistance
to charge. Keep the run side maybe up to 25 or 26 volts by using the
booster that drives the charge battery down to a low potential.

For the moment 9 watts going back to the front end in hopes of catching
up. I should have been doing this all along but this is how you learn.

Next time around should be better.

it's now 4:30am the run batteries 11.04 & 11.20v with the diff at 11.16v
charge batteries 11.12v. The SSSG osc is barely keeping the nose of
this ship up, hopefully it will still keep from crashing over night.


At 7:30am this morning I was up checking the setup.

Batteries A1 & B2 were 8.5v & 9.4v the diff was 11.51v and charge 6.85v

[BroMikey]

Experimental failure

SEE THE GRAPH UPDATE BELOW

With all the burnouts and bad tuning i learned what not to do.

I knew I didn't have the right stuff but had to give this a try for
me and others who think it was worth a shot. As can be seen my
run burnt power right and left and didn't even get close to 68hrs.

But what surprised me was that I could run batteries down so low and
still have 11.51v hitting the inverter. I should have known but I just
didn't think about it til it happened.

So that would mean, say I was living in a camper (been there) all by
my self and the sun had not come up for several days to charge my
3 dead 110ah batteries that choked the inverter at 10.5v day before
yesterday and I wanted to charge my laptop.

Just hook those 3 batteries up in split positive formation and you might
get another day out of them. Of course you might slaughter your
batteries unless you changed over to ALUM.

Anyway that is not the experiment. I was never told by Dave or Desa or
anyone else to make this test, I was told not to do it this way. Got
try it anyway.

A special thx to everyone who has come before me to show test results
you guys are awesome, even if you do talk to much.






It is 8:30pm

The differential is maintaining right at 11.44v while the other readings
decrease. A1 & B2 are 11.52 and 11.54 the charger has raised B2 two
data points at the expense of 550ma at 11.71v on the charge battery.

https://youtu.be/tZuF7yZ9Vvs




It's 9:30pm run batteries 11.48v & 11.51v boost circuit raising B2 three
data points. Diff is 11.39v and the charge battery 11.66v





It is 12:30am Sat morning

A1 & B2 11.28v & 11.35V with a diff of 11.18v and the charging C3 11.51v

It's almost 2:00am and I just swapped out the mickey mouse joule thief
one one of my smallest 4 channel SSSG bedini oscillators that gives me
more Horse power up to 20 watts. I is running at a full amp on the input
off the 11.45v Charge C3 battery then boosting to (IN GENMODE) to 23v
maybe 400ma is my guess after the translation has always been that
amount.

This drives the Charge (C3) battery down and pushes up the run side
to achieve a greater differential. My diff. was down to 11.04v and I did
not like that. I am starting to become aware more of the objective.

Keep the run side up high and the charge side down at a low resistance
to charge. Keep the run side maybe up to 25 or 26 volts by using the
booster that drives the charge battery down to a low potential.

For the moment 9 watts going back to the front end in hopes of catching
up. I should have been doing this all along but this is how you learn.

Next time around should be better.

it's now 4:30am the run batteries 11.04 & 11.20v with the diff at 11.16v
charge batteries 11.12v. The SSSG osc is barely keeping the nose of
this ship up, hopefully it will still keep from crashing over night.


At 7:30am this morning I was up checking the setup.

Batteries A1 & B2 were 8.5v & 9.4v the diff was 11.51v and charge 6.85v

[BroMikey]

NEW TEST RUNNING

4:30am this setup on Sunday morning, good night.

Run batteries 12.55v and 12.53v charge battery is charging 10.63v
and the diff is dead on 14.50v and I had to take some out of the run
batteries to get the diff below 15v. The inverter would not start up
and run on 15v so 14.5 is holding for the longest time .

The current is exactly the same every time I run this small inverter
at 550ma and the little joule thief is my only boost pump and is running
at 500ma.

It is a balanced system for the moment and seems to be hanging in
one spot forever. Let's hope so. The dead batteries tied together in
parallel are making for a much much lower resistance to the on coming
charge and after sitting on these meters for days I can tell a there is a
huge change.

[BroMikey]

Here is pretty much what DESA said he was doing, tho I can't find
his posts anymore. Seems like with 2 boosters the losses would double.
DESA did not use an inverter,he used the mod mtr







DESA WROTE: Gift that keeps giving.
I run the setup today for close to one hour. I had no need to run it longer because answer was there plain and simple. My total loss after batteries rested was .2 v on series and I was higher than start on batterie 3. In attachment you can see all that you need to do math, plain and simple. I attached the DC generator that in open voltage runs at 235vdc. As loaded it run 110 vac CFL 20w lighting to full potential at 142vdc. In this test I attempted to replace resistive load with another Matt's modified motor it was unloade and shaft power don't forget is now free for taking also. It run at battery 3 voltage of 15.1 VDC at 1.6 A. Recirculating power was 2.2A and potential difference was 3.3 v, Sufficient to hold all in balance. To my surprise variable resistor had been reduced but it has more place to give to be eliminated compleatly. As I loade second modified motor the first one increases in speed accordingly. Looking at this all together I could easily see the two motors running in same direction on same shaft with the radial flux generator in between. Second motor running with additional boost converter feeding battery 2. Load of the generator would eliminate variable resistor and any drop in speed of motor one would be self regulating boosted by motor 2. Naw please all of you with know how let me know what you think.
As it is set now if I only recuperate CFL 20W this is in the money. Please let me know if my measurments or asumptions is wrong.
David.-image-jpg

When I had my original setup running, I was new enough to this stuff that I didn't know how to test it. My friend, who is an electrical engineer, told me the only acceptable test he would believe is if I put a kilowatt meter on the inverter hooked up to battery three and ran loads on battery three to measure how much actual power came out of the system, and could show more power coming out than was present in the two primary batteries, but this was impossible to do. The reason is, when you have a load hooked up and are running it, the kilowatt meter is continuously counting how many watts of power are being consumed, but the instant the power to the inverter is cut off for even a split second, that reading instantly goes blank, so you have to be watching the meter at that EXACT second. After running for two full days and losing several readings because I was trying to figure out how MUCH of a load I could put on the inverter without drawing the battery so far down that the inverter kicked off, I gave up on this. I kept drawing too much and the inverter would kick off and I would lose my reading. I was incredibly frustrated....mostly because I was running up against a deadline of writing a big check if this thing was real. Now they have meters that hold the last reading in memory. I didn't have one of those.

I then moved to a process where I would charge a 33 amp hour battery in parallel with battery three. I would charge it up until the volt meter showed between 13 and 14 volts (I checked it occasionally to see where the power level was, and anytime it was over 13 volts I would disconnect it and use it). I would then run two auto headlights off the battery until they went out, then connect it to the setup again and recharge it. I did this continuously for seven straight days, because THAT'S all the time I had before I was to meet with the patent attorney in California to discuss the possibility of a patent. I don't know how many times I ran that battery down and recharged it during that seven day period, but I was in that room day and night. I slept on a cot next to the thing and would wake up every couple hours to check it. Since I was going to have to write a check for $5,000.00 to the attorney, I wanted to be damn sure the thing was doing what I THOUGHT it was doing. I was using three 18 amp hour AGM batteries on that setup. Only TWO of them held a charge. so that's only 36 amp hours of power. And I was charging a 33 amp hour battery to full charge. Yet those two auto headlights ran over and over and over again for all seven days before I took the setup apart to take it to California. How many times would YOU have to recharge that 33 amp hour battery off the setup before you were convinced? I know I was doing it several times a day.

As to the attorney, I can give you his name and number if you are interested. I KNOW he will remember me because he told me I was the first person EVER to bring a working "free energy" system into his office to demonstrate it for him. We only ran it for a few minutes because the motor is so loud, but we DID run it. And I did write the man a non-refundable check for $5,000.00. When the thing quit working I was pretty sick to my stomach over that check I had written. By that time, I was back in Arizona. I wrote him a letter of explanation and requested that he refund any unused portion of the fee. He didn't have to, but the guy sent me back (I think it was) $3,000.00 (might have been $2,000.00) even though he had already begun the process of searching for conflicting patents.

So if you want to call and check out whether at least THAT part of my story is true, you can. I don't remember his name, but my wife knows him (as she is in intellectual property law) and she will remember. In fact, she sent me his info a couple weeks ago and I can probably search my e-mail and find it. One way or another, I will get it to you if you are interested. I would certainly recommend the guy after the way he worked with me, that's for sure.

I have had the system working since then too. On several occasions now. I haven't let it run for long periods of time, and I guess the best thing I could do is the next time it is up and running, record two solid hours of video with my big video camera of it running loads so everyone can see it run for two hours continuously until the tape runs out; run devices requiring several hundred watts of power usage during that time, and still charging the primaries.

I texted my wife earlier as to the attorney's name, and she just responded on my phone. It is:
Amir Raubvogel
voice:
fax:
amir@raubvogel.com
Currently:
Co-chair of Patent Group at Palo Alto Area Bar Association (PAABA)
Patent Attorney at Raubvogel Law Office
Past:
Patent Attorney at Fenwick & West LLP
Software Engineer at Digital Pictures, Inc.
Patent Attorney at Fenwick & West LLP
Education:
Yale Law School
University of Toronto

This thing is for real. We just need, as Matt said, some folks to get off their butts and help us figure it out....or you can do nothing....

Once upon a time, there was a little red hen who lived on a farm . She was friends with a lazy dog , a sleepy cat , and a noisy yellow duck .

One day the little red hen found some seeds on the ground. The little red hen had an idea. She would plant the seeds .
The little red hen asked her friends, "Who will help me plant the seeds ?"

"Not I," barked the lazy dog .
"Not I," purred the sleepy cat .
"Not I," quacked the noisy yellow duck .

"Then I will," said the little red hen . So the little red hen planted the seeds all by herself.

When the seeds had grown, the little red hen asked her friends, "Who will help me cut the wheat ?"
"Not I," barked the lazy dog .
"Not I," purred the sleepy cat .
"Not I," quacked the noisy yellow duck .

"Then I will," said the little red hen . So the little red hen cut the wheat all by herself.

When all the wheat was cut, the little red hen asked her friends, "Who will help me take the wheat to the mill to be ground into flour ?"
"Not I," barked the lazy dog .
"Not I," purred the sleepy cat .
"Not I," quacked the noisy yellow duck .

"Then I will," said the little red hen . So the little red hen brought the wheat to the mill all by herself, ground the wheat into flour , and carried the heavy sack of flour back to the farm .

The tired little red hen asked her friends, "Who will help me bake the bread ?"
"Not I," barked the lazy dog .
"Not I," purred the sleepy cat .
"Not I," quacked the noisy yellow duck .

"Then I will," said the little red hen . So the little red hen baked the bread all by herself.

When the bread was finished, the tired little red hen asked her friends, "Who will help me eat the bread ?"
"I will," barked the lazy dog .
"I will," purred the sleepy cat .
"I will," quacked the noisy yellow duck .

"No!" said the little red hen . "I will." And the little red hen ate the bread ALL BY HERSELF.

Get the picture?

Dave....Ye old Teller of Fables