Split Positive Boost Charger

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, thought i'd make a new thread for this, since it is different.
I scrounged up what i have on hand and battery wise these days, that isn't much.
I have four 6 cell nimh packs, that total about 30 volts in series.
I have the 12 volt exide flooded lead acid.
I used a vector 750 watt inverter and placed it in between the positives of these batteries.
And it powers the inverter and also charges the 12 volt battery.
I then place a standard car battery charger in the 110 volt output of inverter and that super charges the 12 volt battery.
Now i have to find something to try and charge the 30 volt input battery pack as well, off the 110 volt inverter.
What i find interesting so far, is the nimh pack does not drop all that much in loaded voltage for such great charging on the 12 volt lead acid battery.
Meaning, it will be interesting to see if this system can keep the input battery topped up or not, at the same time.
Here is circuit drawing with cute pics, that's the actual inverter, hehe.
Now to figure out a 110 volt powered 30 volt battery charger, wass even thinking, wall warts dc output in series or laptop power supplies in series.
Please, feel free to make any comments you wish or questions, this is a light hearted thread.
peace love light

[SkyWatcher]

Oh wow, Thanks Dave for all the great information, maybe i was intuitively looking into your minds, hehe.
I think i see what your saying about having no continuity between high and low side positives or negatives.
With my inverter off, the 12 volt battery is rising in voltage, so it appears this inverter is not ideal for this system.
I will look into the boost converter.
Thanks again.
Here's what i have so far.
peace love light

[bobfrench@fastmail.fm]

Hello Skywatcher,

I've had a lot of fun with this setup. Running an inverter between the Positives works like a charm and since you're collecting most of the energy back into the charge battery, you're almost getting the inverter power for free. Be sure to use an inverter that does not have continuity between the negative AC (neutral) and the negative input DC. I'm thinking that the cheapest inverters that do have continuity allow AC to mess up your batteries (destroy them).

I live off-grid and my large solar system is 24V. I ran a 12V inverter between the 24V positive and the positive of a 12V bank of batteries. When you are doing this you have to monitor the potential difference because if it goes too high or low the inverter will kick off because it has protection built in to do so. The higher the load you put on the inverter, the more it brings the 24V down and charges the 12V faster. I would do this when the sun was strong and the 24V bank was rising. Sometimes I'd cover half my solar panels so that they wouldn't push the bank up so fast. If it was cloudy, I would run lighter loads so that I could charge the 12V bank longer. The beauty of it is that the whole time I was using the inverter for free. Essentially, I doubled my usable power by using it as I charged the12V bank and then used it again when I put the inverter directly on the 12V bank.

I have more to share, but I'll post again later. Good luck.

Oh, one more thing: Stanley makes an inverter called POWERiT 500W that has no continuity between the negatives for about $40 at Walmart.

Bob

[BroMikey]

Hello Skywatcher,

I've had a lot of fun with this setup. Running an inverter between the Positives works like a charm and since you're collecting most of the energy back into the charge battery, you're almost getting the inverter power for free. Be sure to use an inverter that does not have continuity between the negative AC (neutral) and the negative input DC. I'm thinking that the cheapest inverters that do have continuity allow AC to mess up your batteries (destroy them).

I live off-grid and my large solar system is 24V. I ran a 12V inverter between the 24V positive and the positive of a 12V bank of batteries. When you are doing this you have to monitor the potential difference because if it goes too high or low the inverter will kick off because it has protection built in to do so. The higher the load you put on the inverter, the more it brings the 24V down and charges the 12V faster. I would do this when the sun was strong and the 24V bank was rising. Sometimes I'd cover half my solar panels so that they wouldn't push the bank up so fast. If it was cloudy, I would run lighter loads so that I could charge the 12V bank longer. The beauty of it is that the whole time I was using the inverter for free. Essentially, I doubled my usable power by using it as I charged the12V bank and then used it again when I put the inverter directly on the 12V bank.

I have more to share, but I'll post again later. Good luck.

Oh, one more thing: Stanley makes an inverter called POWERiT 500W that has no continuity between the negatives for about $40 at Walmart.

Bob

That is very exciting, in fact the claim you have made concerning
a practical setup with real usages for free is the first claim I
have ever heard.

Maybe someone else has done this but you seem to be one
of the guys who is actually needing the extra because of
a solar power circuit running things around the house.

Mostly what I have heard is that

"It works"

"it's extra free power"

"Good luck"

"go experiment"

This statement that you are running an inverter on light loads
for almost free should shake things up quite a bit.

Keep charging that 12v bank and rotating those batteries.

Again thanks Bob for stepping up to the plate.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, Thanks for the additional information Turion, i will be pondering and using all the tips i can get and thanks for sharing that video you posted on the other thread, very powerful information.
Hi Bob, thank you very much for sharing this good information.
I plugged my inverter directly to the 12 volt battery, then used continuity setting on my meter and placed one probe into the large blade of inverter 115 vac receptacle and the other probe at the negative of 12 volt input battery.
I tested with inverter on and off and no continuity was detected, so i guess that means this inverter is good for this system.
Its a Vector, VEC1043.
Is there anything in the specifications of inverters, to know which ones do not have this continuity, in case we wanted to get a different inverter in future or the one we have becomes damaged, thanks.
Didn't have time today to make any further tests, will be tomorrow.
peace love light

[BroMikey]

Hello Skywatcher,

I've had a lot of fun with this setup. Running an inverter between the Positives works like a charm and since you're collecting most of the energy back into the charge battery, you're almost getting the inverter power for free. Be sure to use an inverter that does not have continuity between the negative AC (neutral) and the negative input DC. I'm thinking that the cheapest inverters that do have continuity allow AC to mess up your batteries (destroy them).


Oh, one more thing: Stanley makes an inverter called POWERiT 500W that has no continuity between the negatives for about $40 at Walmart.

Bob

Thanks everyone

Great information coming from all of you. Maybe a blocking
diode is not present in the cheap inverters like we see will
some of the cheap solar panels.

Someone showed me one time how to use a diode to stop the
reverse flow and mayb e if someone already has bought those
cheap ones a power diode might clean off any ac?

Wait did that makes sense? I guess not because we want
continuity but no ac? Huh?

Okay only inverters with continuity. Of course you mean continuity
one way but no the other way because the internal diodes
should work only one way?

Just a wild guess, I don't have much to share yet but I will
keep trying.It seems like a thankless job repeating but that
is the only way.

It's coming around.

[bobfrench@fastmail.fm]

Hello again,

Skywatcher, don't have the inverter powered or attached to a battery when checking the continuity between the AC negative (neutral) and the DC negative. I think all we're checking for is to make sure the AC doesn't mess with our batteries.

BroMikey, the energizer is a pulse motor, so it is pulsing the current running through the batteries. This is the wonderful thing that's happening. The batteries are being pulsed with a higher voltage. I think this allows the batteries to pulse themselves.

Tom Bearden says that every dipole is constantly converting virtual energy in the Vacuum into observable ("real") energy. Maybe, the battery charges itself with this energy if we trigger is with the high voltage. (?) Bedini says that his high voltage low amperage spikes trigger the battery to do just that. So it may not matter how many batteries we charge this way. The high voltage will lessen a little as we add more and more batteries, so it will take a little longer to charge. (?)

Bob

[bobfrench@fastmail.fm]

I split this post into these two part because I wrote it all the first time and it gave me an error message when I tried to post it.

Inverters control the DC draw with transistors depending on the load on the inverter. So they are turning OFF and ON which pulses the energy that we are using between the Positives. This seems to be a perfect machine for doing this because we can directly use the AC for free while collecting most of the energy involved (the losses being the heat from the inverter).

My best results so far have been with 3 Primaries in series (37V) and 3 charge batteries in parallel (12V) with a 24V inverter between the Positives. I have run it until the Primary gets a little low, stop, rest it, take measurements, then switch all the batteries so that the first three are now in parallel as charge batteries and the batteries that just got charged are now the Primaries in series. I did this back and forth...so it's really basically a Tesla Switch with an inverter between the Positives. I gained slightly over all and got to use the inverter to run a fan while it was in service. The short coming is that I couldn't use the fan during the rest time. Maybe if we had duplicate setups so that the inverter was always running we'd have something more practical. The 24V inverter allowed for far more load to be applied than a 12V one will.

Good luck...have fun. If you don't love this stuff, go do something else and wait for it to all ccome out mainstream. Free energy is too FREAK'IN frustrating and life is too short. I like what George Washington Carver said, "Anything will reveal its secrets, if you love it enough."

Bob

[SkyWatcher]

Hi bob, thanks for sharing more good information.
I checked the continuity as described, with the inverter attached to nothing and it has no continuity, so this inverter is good for this system.
I also ran the inverter between the positives today and it seems i need to get at least a couple more, (ideally 3 more, for 2 in series and 2 in parallel) of these exide flooded lead acid batteries.
Because one of my 6 cell nimh packs is junk, so i could only test for about 15 minutes.
I hope to get some more batteries soon, to continue experimenting.
I love experimenting with electrical related things, especially if it involves excess energy tech., this stuff has been suppressed for far too long already.
peace love light

[citfta]

Dave,

For the same load an inverter running on 24 volts will draw about half the current an inverter running on 12 volts will draw. So you should be hitting the charge battery with less current using the 24 volt inverter and the 36 volt input. This allows you to run for a longer time before having to swap batteries.

Carroll

[bobfrench@fastmail.fm]

Correction:

My phone corrects things improperly sometimes. In an earlier post it changed a word on me that I didn't catch. It was in reference to the batteries being pulsed with a higher voltage. It was supposed to say that the pulsing allows the batteries to charge themselves. It incorrectly read "to pulse themselves" (which would be a neat trick...somebody should work on that. lol)

Bob

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, Hi bob, thanks for the clarification, so another bonus with this system.

Just want to make folks aware, at least with my inverter, the 30 volt or 17 or so volt potential difference is too much for this inverter, it ran the battery charger ok, but when i placed led or cfl bulbs into inverter, it gave me a fault.
Earlier today, i pushed it even further, placed a couple laptop power supplies in series, (i had them on hand) for 34.5 volts or a potential difference of 22 volts, the inverter powers up, but any load throws it into fault mode and i heard a pop, though it still works fine, at least it seems to.
So, definitiely, don't exceed the inverters rated input voltage.
peace love light

[blackchisel97]

Hi folks, Hi bob, thanks for the clarification, so another bonus with this system.

Just want to make folks aware, at least with my inverter, the 30 volt or 17 or so volt potential difference is too much for this inverter, it ran the battery charger ok, but when i placed led or cfl bulbs into inverter, it gave me a fault.
Earlier today, i pushed it even further, placed a couple laptop power supplies in series, (i had them on hand) for 34.5 volts or a potential difference of 22 volts, the inverter powers up, but any load throws it into fault mode and i heard a pop, though it still works fine, at least it seems to.
So, definitiely, don't exceed the inverters rated input voltage.
peace love light

Hi Sky,

This pop could be one of the electrolytic caps on the input. Easy to spot - raised top and probably good idea to replace it.

V

[Wistiti]

Hi Sky!

It also happened to me 2 days ago... i used the only boost converter i have and it is a 12v to 24v... I pluged it as the schematic Dave (Turion) shared with us but i did not mesure the voltage output... luckly it was a low cost 75w inverter. When i connect it, it takes about 15 sec. after that i heard a bang and a lot of smoke came out of it!!! I did not dismantle it but i think a capacitor blown... To conclude; it is a good idea to check the voltage between batt#2 and batt#3 before connecting something to it!

Sorry to not have shared it before...

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, Hi blackchisel, thanks for the information, i opened up the inverter and there is one larger cap. and 4 slightly smaller ones, the larger one looks slightly raised on top.
I hear another pop before that also, so maybe one of the smaller caps. is not good either.
Wondering why the inverter is still even working, if those caps did pop, maybe it will not work for long, if i don't replace the capacitors.
Well, not much i can do right now anyway, without a couple more primary batteries, so i will check and replace what needs replacing.
Hi wistiti, no smoke, but i think a couple did pop the tops a bit.
I know i should not have used that much voltage, just had to see i guess.
peace love light

Edit: yup, looks like one input capacitor, 16v 3300uf and the output capacitor, 200v 150uf have slightly popped tops.