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Split Positive Boost Charger

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  • #76
    Hi folks, have been trying a little bit different circuit.
    This circuit uses the joule thief with secondary oscillator, powering two 3.6 watt, gutted filament led bulbs.
    One 12 volt battery is solely powering the boost converter, boost is set to output 30 volts at the moment and the oscillator is splitting the negatives into the 12 volt charge battery.
    Not using any flyback to charge any batteries, just using the current that flows through the oscillator, to charge the battery.
    Circuit is very efficient, the bulbs are probably 90% of full brightness, transistor is slightly warm.
    Of course we just swap batteries when needed.
    peace love light

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    • #77
      Hi folks, here is the circuit powering the setup shown in last picture.
      Changes are:
      Flyback charging is not used.
      .1 uf or 100 nanofarad capacitor across base resistor.
      Two 3.6 watt, gutted filament led bulbs being lighted to full brightness.
      Booster output is set at 30 volts.
      So far, seems quite efficient.
      Comments welcome.
      peace love light

      Last edited by SkyWatcher; 07-26-2016, 12:59 AM.

      Comment


      • #78
        Originally posted by SkyWatcher View Post
        Hi folks, here is the circuit powering the setup shown in last picture. Changes are:
        Flyback charging is not used.1 uf or 100 nanofarad capacitor across base resistor. Two 3.6 watt, gutted filament
        led bulbs being lighted to almost full brightness.
        Booster output is set at 30 volts.
        So far, seems quite efficient.Comments welcome.
        peace love light

        Hey Sky

        I got to admit that is one setup I would like to try also because it looks
        like you are boosting up the run battery so as to reach the needed
        potential difference to power the RINGER CIRCUIT and the second
        battery is being charged at the same time.

        My question to you is when the circuit is operational and the light is
        turned on and off, how many mili-amp change does the meter show?

        In a normal RINGER circuit I run 12v on a LED bulb anywhere from 100ma
        up to 500ma. Great experiment.
        Last edited by BroMikey; 07-25-2016, 07:21 PM.

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        • #79
          Hi mike, thanks for the reply and kind words.
          It's funny you mention the ringer circuit, you must be reading me mind.
          I was just last night thinking about that circuit, in this kind of setup and if it would work.
          I just today, picked up the higher quality cen-tech multimeter from harbor freight, #61593, this thing is nice.
          I measured the amperage on 20 amp setting.
          It is .81 amps input at 12.7 volts with the 2 gutted led bulbs running.
          It is .85 amps input at 12.7 volts with only 1 gutted led bulb running.
          And since i have a fairly high voltage transistor and neon protection, i made your request, to test without any secondary coil load.
          It is 1.85 amps input without any loading on secondary coil, except the current flowing to 12 volt charge battery through oscillator circuit.
          I also picked up 2 more feit 3.6 watt led bulbs to gut out, since i think my secondary coil could easily power 1 or 2 more of these gutted filament led bulbs and might cause the input to reduce further.
          Also, the 2 running now, are at full brightness, when comparing a non-modified one, plugged into wall power.
          peace love light

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          • #80
            Originally posted by SkyWatcher View Post

            It's funny you mention the ringer circuit, you must be reading me mind.


            And since i have a fairly high voltage transistor and neon protection, i made your request,............t
            Yes I was kind of chuckling about what might happen to your poor
            transistor when you unplugged your light bulb But I couldn't
            resist the suggestion.

            However when i reconsidered i knew that because your transistor also
            had a battery to dump to I figured everything would turn out okay.

            Or I would have warned you in advance.

            Great to see that you are charging a second battery bank while powering
            2 gutted CFL lights for free, Now that's what I like to hear. Those CFL
            tubes you are running need 400volts or shall I say normally run at 400v.

            Nice work, always enjoy your stuff.

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            • #81
              single and dual charging /lighting systems

              Hi Skywalker

              I don't know if you have seen the single system of charging and lighting but i was thinking of including the boost converter and an extra coil to produce more power,I am waiting for my boost converter from china and would appreciate it if you could have a look at the schematics.I believe it could work,what do you think?
              Attached Files

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              • #82
                Hi folks, thanks for the replies.
                Hi mike, the flyback can still damage the transistor, the neon did light up when disconnecting secondary load quickly.
                I am running gutted, newer filament type LED bulbs, not cfl's.
                Thanks for kind words mike.

                Hi quantumfanatic, I don't see how it would oscillate, though i remember a guy that was getting a circuit similar to or the same as that to oscillate, i probably have it in my library somewhere.
                Have you tried the circuit already, without the booster.
                Though i'm not using cfl's and probably will not anytime soon, led bulbs are so efficient, in comparison.
                Though gutted cfl's could last a very long time, even with elements blown and still be lighted with certain circuits, so they have that advantage.
                peace love light

                Edit: notice: one should probably use a high voltage diode off one leg of the secondary coil to gutted led bulbs, in case the on time of transistor induces enough voltage to turn on leds, Which would cause the led bulbs to light both ways.
                Which probably isn't good for the leds, meaning they would be lighting also in reverse bias mode.
                Last edited by SkyWatcher; 07-26-2016, 08:02 PM.

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                • #83
                  Hi folks, here is the setup running with 3 gutted filament type led bulbs, with the high voltage, high speed diode off one leg of secondary.
                  The new meter is showing the volts on the charging battery.
                  The amperage dropped to .8 amps at 12.42 volts with the additional led bulb, though the other 2 dropped slightly in brightness.
                  All one needs to do to get full brightness from leds, is up the voltage a bit more on booster, it is still at 30 volts.
                  The led bulbs are uncomfortable to look at though, as it is.
                  Of course the beauty is, we are charging another battery while doing all this and the oscillator is efficient and putting high frequency charge pulses into the charge battery.
                  peace love light

                  Comment


                  • #84
                    Forgive me if you have said before, but, what do you mean by a gutted led bulb?
                    What is it that you took out of the bulbs? Cool setup by the way.


                    Originally posted by SkyWatcher View Post
                    Hi folks, here is the setup running with 3 gutted filament type led bulbs, with the high voltage, high speed diode off one leg of secondary.
                    The new meter is showing the volts on the charging battery.
                    The amperage dropped to .8 amps at 12.42 volts with the additional led bulb, though the other 2 dropped slightly in brightness.
                    All one needs to do to get full brightness from leds, is up the voltage a bit more on booster, it is still at 30 volts.
                    The led bulbs are uncomfortable to look at though, as it is.
                    Of course the beauty is, we are charging another battery while doing all this and the oscillator is efficient and putting high frequency charge pulses into the charge battery.
                    peace love light

                    Comment


                    • #85
                      Hi sawt2, thanks for the compliments.
                      I used the stove top flame to heat the threaded metal part of bulb.
                      This loosened the glue, then gently pried the bottom piece off and removed small circuit board.
                      Then connected wires to secondary coil power strip as shown in picture, to verify proper wiring, so that each led bulb is the same polarity, when plugging into power strip.
                      The modified led bulbs seem to work much better with this style circuit setup, or at least with the turns ratio and input voltage.
                      peace love light

                      Comment


                      • #86
                        Hi folks, i've been more thoroughly testing the latest circuit i posted and am finding it is not as efficient as i would like.
                        So i am testing the standard split positive method, with the boost converter splitting the positives between two 12 volt batteries in series and a single 12 volt charge battery.
                        I have already noticed my oscillator circuit is running better, solely running off booster output.
                        It's staying cooler and giving better output into modified led bulbs, and this at a lower voltage of 16 volts, compared to the potential difference of 17 volts, splitting the negative of previous circuit.
                        We shall see how it goes.
                        I will keep rotating through the batteries, when each charge battery position reaches either 13.5 volts or 14 volts.
                        Though that depends on how fast that happens, then i will choose which voltage to rotate at.
                        Comments always welcome.
                        peace love light
                        Last edited by SkyWatcher; 07-28-2016, 03:44 AM.

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                        • #87
                          Hi folks, I've been testing this newer circuit, with the basic boost converter splitting the positives, between 24 volt battery and 12 volt battery and powering oscillator with led bulbs.
                          The results so far are looking interesting.
                          I have made 3 cycle rotations so far, of the 3 batteries.
                          Checking voltage on each battery every hour, for 5 hour runs each cycle and marking that down.
                          At 5 hour mark, taking measurements with circuit powered on, last cycle compared to first cycle:
                          Battery A has gained .015 volts, from 13.01 to 13.025 volts
                          Battery B is the same 12.245 volts
                          Battery C has lost .125 volts, from 12.44 to 12.315 volts.
                          Bear in mind, previously, the boost converter and its output powering the oscillator and led bulbs, was drawing around 10 watts.
                          So this system, has been using 10 watts for around 15 hours already and only one battery has lost a small amount of energy.
                          While one of the other batteries, gained a bit of energy and the other stayed the same.
                          This system seems to be very efficient so far.
                          Comments welcome
                          peace love light

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                          • #88
                            You may have just fluffy voltage from the charges, so it's important to measure the amps, as well.

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                            • #89
                              Hi nick, i know what you're saying, though that is why i took the measurements when the circuit was powered on and under load.
                              Keep in mind also, with these latest tests, I'm not using any flyback or collapsing spikes from any coil to charge any batteries.
                              The boost converter is splitting the positives and that is pure DC power, flowing to the charge battery.
                              I will continue tests to see what happens.
                              peace love light

                              Comment


                              • #90
                                Originally posted by SkyWatcher View Post
                                The boost converter is splitting the positives and that is pure DC power, flowing to the charge battery.
                                The boost converter is a switch mode based circuit that operate by
                                turning the power on and off and is never a pure DC action. When the
                                charge battery goes up as the current flows thru the boost converter
                                it does so in very fast pulses.

                                This is my understanding of all switchmode circuits such as a common
                                12v inverter. The inverter and the CON-verter operates the same.

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