Split Positive Boost Charger

[SkyWatcher]

Hi mike, i see your point yes, i got confused and was thinking about the output of the boost converter, forgetting that the booster input is splitting the positives.
Still though, it is pulsed DC from the 24 volt battery bank and not using any flyback spikes, as that is going to the capacitors of booster.
Which was my point, as the flyback spikes can give fluffy charge, i'm not aware of regular hot current pulsed DC causing fluff charge.
peace love light

[BroMikey]

Hi mike, i see your point yes, i got confused and was thinking about the output of the boost converter, forgetting that the booster input is splitting the positives.
Still though, it is pulsed DC from the 24 volt battery bank and not using any flyback spikes, as that is going to the capacitors of booster.
Which was my point, as the flyback spikes can give fluffy charge, i'm not aware of regular hot current pulsed DC causing fluff charge.
peace love light

No I don't think your meter reading would be a fluffy number while under
a load. It looks like you struck a NODE to me. That is what we are looking
for. To clarify a NODE on your device is not a NODE with my device.

A NODE is a specially tuned place where energy that is already being
pumped around in circles is enhanced. Any particular device setup that
reached a tuned NODE may not be considered a very practical system
tho it sure is nice to find one.

Those type of batteries you are using act as capacitors at the same time
that it is a long term storage device. I just can't figure out how you can
run 10 watts thru your converter to the charge battery and the charge
battery voltage just sits in the same spot.

Do you have a picture of your system connections? A split positive battery
input to a converter set at 10 watts thru-put would charge a small battery
up in 12hrs or up to 14v and yet in your case the charge battery does
not move.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi mike, i'm sorry if i am causing any confusion.
The charge battery position changes every rotation as we know.
And indeed, whichever battery is in the charge position, does climb rapidly in voltage, then slowly climbs as it charges.
I just started a new cycle today, the first phase is looking good already, while under load.
I can say more, when i get at least another 3 rotations of the 3 batteries done.
It looks like only one particular battery is losing voltage under load compared to when i first started the battery rotations, though it is not losing much at all.
We will see what happens.
peace love light

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, so here is some interesting data from 3 rotations so far.
Each run was 5 hours.
Run with voltages added from each battery while under load, meter readings taken at 5 hour mark:
1st run = 37.59 volts
Batteries rotated
2nd run = 37.58 volts
Batteries rotated
3rd run = 37.60 volts

Started a new cycle of rotations today.
Comments welcome
peace love light

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, into the next cycle, i'm noticing a swift decline in overall voltage.
So, i wired up daves circuit layout and it works with my oscillator and the cen-tech inverter.
I'll start tests with my oscillator with modified led bulbs, since i already have similar data.
It is this circuit, though instead of the motor, i am using my oscillator circuit.
peace love light

[BroMikey]

Hello Sky

I used the marine batteries also when I first started my inverter tests
a few years ago. Then I saw J. Bedini using a garden tractor battery
somewhere around 2005. So I spend money on the walmart 125ah
marines and they didn't last one year before they were falling apart
internally and I gave up on starter batteries.

Engine starting batteries (Like for a lawnmower) can cost $50 and I
paid $80 for the bigger ones. This is what I did learn about starter
batteries.

Like all batteries each type or kind has a place where the voltage sets
the longest. With a good deep cycle the voltages/Power curve slowly
declines from 12.8v under loaded (5amps) down to 12 volts taking a
very long time. A nice even line all the way across till 11v then it runs
down hill in minutes.

With a starter battery the voltage sits in the same spot forever say
12.45v (5 amps) and at 12.2v the battery will go down fast. The starter
battery plays tricks with any experiment. Any real current coming from
a good battery will will last hours within the "C" rate and will also take
hours to charge it back up again.

The small battery for a garden tractor is only good for around 15ah and
the large one like I bought rated at 125ah is a lie and is only good for
35ah. At the time I was confused about my collection figures till one day
I saw John Bedini in a video talking about his big truck size marine
batteries. John verified also that his start battery from Wal-mart also
had a figure of 125ah but he could only get the 35ah.

A 15ah battery should never exceed the "C20" rate of less than 1 amp
and should never ever ever be allowed to go below 12v. Or damage will
occur as the starter battery plates will for some reason die on you.

From that point on you will charge your battery twice just to get the
voltage back up to 13.8v. ALUM does help in some cases but never
helped my brand new batteries that died fast.

Now if that happens you charge the tar out of your battery and it goes
south to ring the alarm above 12.2v it will descend to 10v in seconds.

When i cut the top off of both kinds of battery I found that the
separators were the big difference. My deep cycle is 1/3rd the size
for the same capacity and can always be counted on. So many amps
out and so many amps back in at the proper rate.

NOT A STARTER BATTERY. They hang at 12.45v virtually till they decide
to fold up and do they shut down fast. I used to run some 48" tubes
on my shop using 4 in parallel and every time I charged them up and ran
them back down I never knew where I stood on how much time I had left
to run the lights.

My deep cycles for the same money far surpass that nightmare.

The power goes out over here and I tried to run a light and it only
went 30 minutes sometimes so I gave up on starter batteries.

I have used them for refrigerators because a quick 125amps is needed
only on startup and then to run a frig it only takes about 25 amps.
The deep cycles didn't always start the frig so i paralleled a starter
battery into the set.

That is all they are good for. You are better off with a couple of
scooter batteries say 2 X 12ah like a Razor has. With two like that
you will have a dependable deep cycle.

No more belly up on the 4th run wondering where the voltage went.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi mike, thanks for taking the time to share all of that.
Yes, i have observed what you're saying about these tractor starting batteries.
The question is, will they work with this system or not.
Apparently turion(dave) seems to think so, as he is using 12 of them for his battery bank and 2 for primaries.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nD7a4bPS4o8

Oh and this new circuit im using is working better and charging the charge battery much better.
peace love light

[BroMikey]

John also pointed out that one could buy more expensive start batteries that
lasted for years and years. The good start batteries have a much better
plate construction and separator. However my batteries were not
of this caliber. Mine were from Wal-Mart and I tried them.

I don't know if their batteries are still like they were or where you got yours
but my batteries from there cost good money that did not last. The
batteries didn't last a year and the current didn't last coming out of the
battery when I tried to cycle them.

Dave probably paid $200 per battery? I don't know what company he went
with maybe someone like NAPA. I see that you batteries are Exide. Your
Exide battery is probably better than what I had.

The start batteries are good for absorbing a quick charge back into
them when charging and act as a capacitor being FLOODED. Deep
cycles are not FLOODED unless you pop the tops.

It is good to experiment with all types of batteries. All I am saying is WAL-Mart batteries are a sham or any other cheap design.

Here is John B. "ENGINEERED TO FAIL"





[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A3TbuIK5BNM[/VIDEO]

[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dM6aVz2fDAs[/VIDEO]

[SkyWatcher]

Hi mike, from turions video, he used everstart U1 flooded tractor batteries, they are 20 bucks each.
The flooded lead acid acting similar to capacitors is probably true.
Since bedini recommends them, they take spikes better and lower impedance helps that also they said.
I'm making some runs with the circuit you shared based on daves system.
Only making each run 2 hours, then rotating, charging is definitely better so far.
Just about to make first rotation.
peace love light

[BroMikey]

John only uses one to run the wheel and changes it first thing by
cleaning out the acid uses ALUM to dump back into it. Pickle Juice.

From that point on the SG wheel can charge any battery. I don't think
that John's video's are actually recommending any type of battery
in particular rather that the SSG machines can use any battery even
ones with broken cells at 10volts (Not the best) to drive up whole
banks of batteries on the other end busted or not.

The average person has a couple of old cores around from their
garden tractor that the battery krokked by freezing. John's initial teaser
to the backyard inventor is a great foot in the door. John got me
interested right away.

I have recovered thousands of dollars worth of batteries because of
John B. instruction but that is not the subject of our research.

Keep using them till they go.

I know tonnes of people who have lived off the grid in cHurch (Wooden)
communities who supply energy at their rural area farms have the
WAL-MART batteries because they say they take them back every year
to get new ones.

Only problem is the WAL-MARTS changed their policies. Many said
and thought how it was a good deal by checking each battery before
the end of a 1 year agreement to see if it showed signs of reduced
capacity and others just took them back regardless for exchange.

They beat the system only for a short time.

If you keep your battery at 13.9v they will last longer, this is why John
went to ALUM because in the SSG work (Or any research) the battery
gets used and is not always recharged instantly (Required for cars)

Instead of waiting to find out the hard way where the "TOLD YA SO"
(I hate it) kicks in why not mix up a jug of pickle juice? Or head back to
Wal-Mart ever so often.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi mike, i have experimented with alum., with these exact exide tractor batteries i have now.
I bought one new before and dumped out acid and put alum solution in, i did not get great capacity, though it was usable.
I have seen bedini's videos on alum.
I have a thread somewhere with that data, not sure if it's here or in other forum.
Off hand, i think i was getting half the capacity or a little more with the alum.
So are you or have you tested a 3 battery system, using alum. batteries? and if so, how is it working.
peace love light

[BroMikey]

Hi mike, i have experimented with alum., with these exact exide tractor batteries i have now.
I bought one new before and dumped out acid and put alum solution in, i did not get great capacity, though it was usable.
I have seen bedini's videos on alum.
I have a thread somewhere with that data, not sure if it's here or in other forum.
Off hand, i think i was getting half the capacity or a little more with the alum.
So are you or have you tested a 3 battery system, using alum. batteries? and if so, how is it working.
peace love light

ALL of my batteries are converted ALUM. Yes my batteries are better than
when using acid. You must discharge and recharge with ONLY pure DC.

Plate forming takes place over time and DC only at first then I add the
pulsed DC later. I mix 2 cups of crystals into a water jug half full and
shake then fill tot he top. Shake and shake and shake, within minutes
the extra will fall to the bottom, shake and shake THEN fill your cells.

All of my batteries hold 50-80 percent more power in them than they did
when I upgraded. DC first, SG osc next and cap dumps really finish the job
nicely.

Just to give you one example my son 12yrs has scooter batteries that are
converted over to ALUM that when normally at 12v are dead keep going
another few miles. From 11.7v down to 10.7v is another world.

Alum batteries will sit at 11.7v so this is some what lower than the standard
12.7v . However the ALUM batteries give out power in the upper range like
a standard Acid battery does.

I have two banks of ALUM batteries that are rated at 12v 880ah each that
float all day at 13.8v.

It does take faith to see the conversion thru as the battery will exhibit an
impossible charging resistance at first. I trickle with DC and pulse hammer
at the same time for days after initial forming instructs have been followed.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi mike, thanks for sharing, very encouraging information.
I previously tried alum. or aluminum sulphate in the exide battery, was not happy with results, probably because i didn't form battery properly.
Then i tried magnesium sulphate(bath salts) worked about the same, again probably didn't follow proper forming procedure.
Don't get me wrong, it worked and the battery was very usable at the lower voltages you describe, though to get equal capacity or more, i must have made a boo boo.
So what's the sure fire method to form the salt battery properly, can i just trickle charge for days and will that do it, is the cap dump absolutely needed.

The testing is going well so far, im seeing a steady increase in overall voltage from the 3 batteries, back up close to where it was with the other circuit, before it started falling.
This is telling me, daves circuit is more efficient.
peace love light

[BroMikey]

Here is your man, take the time to listen to John repeating the video
information till you are able to pick it all up.

John B is my battery HERO.

[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ruHruDhqL1I[/VIDEO]

[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjUf1APpcQM[/VIDEO]


[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mgjn-Eubyoo[/VIDEO]

[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PbCA8RZqeqk[/VIDEO]

[SkyWatcher]

Hi mike, thanks for sharing.
I have previously seen those bedini videos and they are good.
I was more interested in what you did, to get your salt batteries to equal or greater capacity to the original lead acid condition.

I am recharging all 3 of my batteries in parallel, i want them all as equal as possible for any further tests.
After recharging, i will let them sit for awhile in parallel, to equalize.
peace love light