Figuera Device, Part G Continuum.( Serious Builders Only)

[Cornboy 555]

I think a very valuable piece of information about the device is being overlooked.
when you decide on your power requirements of say 15 kilowatts to power your home or what ever, you need to design your secondaries with that requirement in mind then broken down to how ever many secondaries you decide to have or at what pressure you feel comfortable in dealing with whether it be 7, 12 or even 16 cores, it is entirely up to you the builder.
example if you decide to use 8 cores then 15 kilowatts divided by 8 is 1875 watts for each secondary. so that means you need to build the secondary to put out at least that plus a little head room.
please remember at 15 kilowatts the pressure between the primaries are at 222 lbs pressure being shifted back and forth so be sure you break it down to a pressure you feel comfortable in dealing with ( pressure divided by number of cores)

then you take that power requirement and build your Primaries to sustain half that amount, so for the example above take 1875 or even it out at 1900. take 1900 divided by 2 is 950 watts, that means each Primary is accountable for 950 watts of flux exposed to the secondary exactly half of it's output.

i hope this can clarify a few things and save people from over saturation of their Primaries.
if it doesn't, i can draw it out in crayola crayon for you for your simple understanding with pop up's to.

MM

Hi Mm, crayon's and pop up's, sounds great for a non electrical guy like me.

Going on your example above, of 15 kw output, with the number of coils and output 950w each, what VA part G toroid would you need?.

Also if you don't mind Mm, with Doug's device, 5 kw i believe, did he use just one alt core, or did he stack a few together, in other words do you know what VA his G was for 5 kw output?.

Regards Cornboy,

[marathonman]

Yep

"I have a wonderful marinated Sirloin Stake...bleeding and ready for the flames!!!...YUM, YUM,...I am hungry!!"

That role is already taken by Figuera 1 thread.

MM

[Ufopolitics]

Stake Well Done...

Really nice UFOP, now lets see what we can fry..

MM,

I have a wonderful marinated Sirloin Stake...bleeding and ready for the flames!!!...YUM, YUM,...I am hungry!!

just kidding, nice going. a power supply for EVERY device built.

MM

I know, me too...

I am ready to rock and roll very soon!!


Take care


Ufopolitics

[marathonman]

Nice

Really nice UFOP, now lets see what we can fry..

just kidding, nice going. a power supply for EVERY device built.

MM

[Ufopolitics]

The Two Linear PSU arrived...

Hello to All,

My Two Linear PSU's arrived...

[IMG][/IMG]

First one (cheaper one) do not work...it turns on but there is some issue at the Main Transformer Input (Primary) not reaching full 120V...so, it is controlled by an overload (based on solenoid) overprotection Double Throw Cut-Off Switch...no problems...I could fix that...they are built so well...we could take almost any part apart and repair it......Very Tough Built!!!

Now the second one I just got it this morning...and works great so far tested...not loaded yet...but turns on all secondaries plus cap bank...beautiful

This things are HEAVY!!!...and huge compared to the small switching one looks like Ants Toys...little kids...

So, now I will have to arrange my bench to install it properly.


Regards


Ufopolitics

[marathonman]

Primary Induction

I think a very valuable piece of information about the device is being overlooked.
when you decide on your power requirements of say 15 kilowatts to power your home or what ever, you need to design your secondaries with that requirement in mind then broken down to how ever many secondaries you decide to have or at what pressure you feel comfortable in dealing with whether it be 7, 12 or even 16 cores, it is entirely up to you the builder.
example if you decide to use 8 cores then 15 kilowatts divided by 8 is 1875 watts for each secondary. so that means you need to build the secondary to put out at least that plus a little head room.
please remember at 15 kilowatts the pressure between the primaries are at 222 lbs pressure being shifted back and forth so be sure you break it down to a pressure you feel comfortable in dealing with ( pressure divided by number of cores)

then you take that power requirement and build your Primaries to sustain half that amount, so for the example above take 1875 or even it out at 1900. take 1900 divided by 2 is 950 watts, that means each Primary is accountable for 950 watts of flux exposed to the secondary exactly half of it's output.

i hope this can clarify a few things and save people from over saturation of their Primaries.
if it doesn't, i can draw it out in crayola crayon for you for your simple understanding with pop up's to.

MM

[marathonman]

Self Inductance

All i wanted to do is show people why rectangle wire was chosen by me. yes, Doug used it but why you ask, it was on hand but refer to the drawing below of the magnetic field around a conductor as currant is flowing through it. the top is rectangle wire and bottom is regular round wire. notice how much larger the magnetic field is of the rectangle compared to round. all that extra field interaction is why Figuera chose wide wire. that and a much higher load capability. the longer the field travels in the iron core the more self induction takes place amplified by the iron core. thus more currant reduction.
also why i chose a deeper core than everyone else.
see there was a method to my madness.

regular wire will work though just more of it.
Graph not to scale.
as seen in the graph the self inductance straight path has the most influence on self inductance (currant opposition) being amplified by the core being directly related to currant control. as the flux path changes direction it's influence on currant opposition diminishes exponentially.


MM

[marathonman]

Wire

Cornboy;
He took his wire from a half track starter motor or close there of that was 1/4 inch wide, if i remember correctly.
S & W wire did not have any wire smaller than .4 inch at the time and when i got it it was .44 ....OUCH!

the smallest they have right now is .33 just a few feet and a lot of .35 rectangle wire as of yesterday.

FOREWARNED, VERY EXPENSIVE. i bought 30 feet and that with shipping was 150 bucks. 50 of that was for a lousy respooling fee.
the grounding wire thing is much cheaper , just have to use a lot more winding's. Netica's last test was 40 winds so go from there. i won't be able to post test results for a few more weeks as i am waiting for parts.

to bad you couldn't flatten out your own wire from say the 8 or 10 awg ground wire.??? it sure would save a lot of money.

up to you friend.

MM

[Cornboy 555]

Thanks Mm and UFO, i will consider what you guys have said and check everything, at the moment i am leaning towards using Flat wire for more core exposure, no big problem, all part of experimenting.

@ Mm, with Doug your mentor's build, what wire did he use around the alternator core G ?.

Regards Cornboy.

[Ufopolitics]

[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5uUa80IfjIg&t=9s[/VIDEO]

Finally uploaded, please everyone feel free to comment, builders that is.

Regards Cornboy.

Hello Cornboy,

Thanks for making the test again with all parameters corrected.

You still have a difference between both signals.

Channel 1 (Yellow) Signal is almost PERFECT!

But, Channel 2 (Blue) is NOT properly aligned as following a vertical timed line with Channel one. It seems it is getting split right at top, where right side of split (green line) is lower or drops off.

[IMG][/IMG]

Channel 2 should fill that red zone as Channel 1 does.

Make sure your two MAIN output terminals (which go to Part G Output to Primaries or Bulbs, and are supposed to be two jumped elements ) AT COMMUTATOR are PERFECTLY ALIGNED in a STRAIGHT LINE ACROSS from each others (line from center split between the two elements with center split of the other side) ..in order that such Line must cross the center of Commutator. Then AT TOROID the EXACT, SAME number of turns must be between each Tap . As each tap MUST BE EXACTLY SPACED APART with exactly same number of turns between taps throughout the whole wind.

It seems you do not have both outputs aligned properly in a line at Commutator, maybe just one element jumped which makes it off set.

About your Channel 2 going negative... I could only relate that issue to a different setting on Scope on Ch2 versus Ch1. So, check ALL settings for Channel 1 WITHOUT CHANGING THEM...Write them down, then check Channel 2 and compare it to Ch1 Settings. Or it could be that both probes are not the same type...or maybe one of its internal components are bad on Ch2.

As this system design is based on a constant back and forth flow which generates both signals equally and alternating constantly...therefore, that I can think off...it is just impossible one signal would be positive while the second negative within same system.

Good news is that your switching assembly -in general- is not loosing contact even at high speeds.

That is all I could think off as of now...


Regards



Ufopolitics

[marathonman]

Part G

Not good, your bulbs do not even slightly dim at all which is directly related to winding count which is your currant reduction.

Is your winding's one continuous winding or is it split like Netica's slight modification ???

The sad reality is it would seem you need to rewind your part G with like tripple your present winding count. even without testing my part G yet i am very confident that from my test i conducted that rectangle wire interacts much better with the core then regular wire does. only a full test very soon will reveal reality.

also the fact that the whole concept of an inductor is the interactions with the opposing magnetic field with the wire next to it and the core. thus with your wires so far apart you are not getting the induction level required to curtail currant flow.

also the other problem of channel Two. it seems to still be going negative for some reason and saw toothed at that. this really has me puzzled.

[Cornboy 555]

[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5uUa80IfjIg&t=9s[/VIDEO]

Finally uploaded, please everyone feel free to comment, builders that is.

Regards Cornboy.

[Cornboy 555]

Hey all,

@ UFO, you were right, i thought i had checked the probes, but one was on 10X.

Have made a video showing wave forms, and built up speed of switching sssllooowwlly, .

I am at the end of 15 Klm's of tiny copper wire for my internet, no cell service here, it takes about 1.5 hrs to upload a video to youtube, so will chat when i post it.

Regards Cornboy.

[Shadow119g]

Urton

Cornboy 555
Thanks for the information!
I went to the website and "FINALLY" remembered
I had bought an eight part commutator from them
for my first attempt at building this device.
Oh well..................there goes the old brain!
HA HA
The parts are on the way.
Thanks again,
Shadow

[marathonman]

Induction

Very nice Cornboy and Thank You. as you could see it took a few seconds for part G to get magnetically stable. then your waveform stabilized even when you brought it down to low RPM's. all you have to do is work on extending your low part of the waveform and bring second channel up above to be always positive

Good idea on the brush mount groving it like that. i have no way to do that so i would have to pay for it to be done and money is tight as the company put me on hold until the first of the year.....OUCH !
I imagine the brush, holder and plate must come close to the weight of the removed material thus why it is so smooth.

Very good results my friend CONGRATS ! AGAIN it proves to ney sayers that induction was Figuera's avenue not resistance.
as UFOP has stated from above with a few improvements life will be a blessing. after second look at full screen UFOP is completely right, complete symmetry is a must with the Figuera device contrary to other on this forum that ANY signal will do as reality set in.

You gatta love it.

MM