Figuera Device, Part G Continuum.( Serious Builders Only)

[marathonman]

Drained

I will be taking a short break as i am Physically drained. having trouble sleeping and getting up as all the BS is taking it's toll.

Good move cadman and thank you for your kind words.
see you all at a later date.
I must rest now.

MM

[marathonman]

Part G

Last night i slept the best i have in a month, even drooled on the pillow.

I think everyone is having trouble with part G because of the Inadequate amount of Induction from their small cores. Figuera used an Iron cylinder insulated and embedded with thick wire that he calls commutator bars. thus i don't see any reason we are on the wrong foot with the commutator as his signal would of been about the same as ours with the commutator VS. the direct brush contact. it will still be stair stepped no matter how you do it but the secondary does not see this as it will be smoother
the three reasons he used thick wire was for One, the least amount of losses associated with resistance as ANY inductor has losses associalted with resistance so what is the best way to reduce it??? thick wire reduces resistance. two, it had a better interaction with the core (Inductance), and three, it was the power supply after initial starting so it had to be hefty as all lower parts of the branch add up to the final supply plus headroom just like ANY power supply would have to.

the pic below is of an Iron Cylinder, notice how much more surface area you have compared to the toroid below it. yes Figuera used a cylinder of Iron in which his loop diameter of his thick wire were VERY LARGE and having much, much more surface contact as a toroid. of course it was insulated and embedded.





thus we are left with either using a toroid with a larger amount of winding's in which we can increase the depth like i did or you can use a alternator core like Doug did that has much more surface area then one toroid.
both will get you a higher surface area in which to have higher Inductance.
EDIT;
I am not saying a toroid will not work, quite the contrary, it will work just add a lot more winding's.

Bottom line is Self Inductance talks and BS walks.

[marathonman]

Btw

Just so you people know what is going on with part G , the Primaries and the Secondaries the pic below always helps. the peaks are that side primaries high.



MM

[Ufopolitics]

Time to Keep building and testing...

Hello to All,

I am finished with Part G rewiring with 10 awg and more turns than I had before (like 20)...now I have like 44...

But I wanted to share what I have found maybe to be useful for those using bare wire...and do not want to epoxy your setting.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

I used Motor Hedges in the shape of a "U" alternated between each wire loop...and besides isolating wires, it would help to maintain a separation.

I am also testing another configuration of Secondary to see which one will render more Induction...

[IMG][/IMG]

A shorter Core for Secondary, not only will shorten the Repulsion Magnetic Field sweep area...but, because of getting both Primaries closer...a Much Compact and stronger density repulse field would be generated by the two North Poles.

One thing that I HIGHLY recommend guys...is to build your set in order that you could take it apart easily...use tape, bolts, nuts, taps and die parts...screw, unscrew cores, etc,etc...in order that different types could be exchanged or swapped easily without loosing much time...but, basically not to waste materials...like when you build for a lasting and already tested and working device...We do not have -at least I don't- a huge budget (I only wish..) so we can't afford to waste wire and other materials, including TIME... every time we make one set and it just don't work "as expected"...


Regards and great build!!


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

About preliminary tests...

Hello to All,

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

I am still not happy with signal...but, it maybe brush bad contacts as NOT contacting two elements...but it is going negative....either that or too much noise from PSU...have to check.

I tested the system and works fine...I have the linear PSU supplying V&A...However, due to low resistance, still will not allow me to reach even 10 volts at like 9 Amps...I thought a linear would do it...but do not.

However, I have noticed that as I increase small motor speed, voltage starts rising up, amps remains same at PSU...As Induction greatly increases...but unfortunately I have an issue with brush...and mechanical contact that at certain speed starts sparking big time...seems it is loosing strong contact (maybe a spring went bad)...besides notice that it is not contacting two elements but barely one...no good...so unfortunately I will have to take it apart and repair-adjust.

I want to take motor close to 3000 to 3600 operating RPM's to be able to evaluate and measure the full operational system...

Sorry about that.

In general Part G is working fine, fields are fluctuating great and strong and at the top speed I was able to drive it, which is not much...system did not sparks...nor gets hot at all. Primaries a bit warm, that's it...meaning perfectly stable.


Done for the day of tests.


Regards


Ufopolitics

[GlenWV]

Another Commutator supplier

Greetings all:

I found another commutator manufacturer today: COMMUTATORS.COM

...and, submitted an inquiry via their page here: AKARD COMMUTATOR OF TENNESSEE (ACT) – Commutator Quote

Then, I got to looking at the 'vertical face' commutator and will have to try something like that, too.

I visited a motor rewind shop while down in the coal fields this week and the guy at the counter turned me onto a couple of places that have some things we can use on this project.

One is square magnet wire of sizes that can be bought by the pound in small quantities like what it would take to wind a toroid. (Beats buying 250 pounds at a time.)

Another thing is that the flat, ribbon copper can also be purchased in small quantities for winding primaries. The insulating paper is also available.

The guy that I talked to down in Kentucky made it sound like the flat copper was fairly cheap, so I'm going to try one set of primaries this way. The Kentucky guy told me of a place about an hour and a half from me that does the same stuff, so I'll go see them in a couple of weeks while working near there.

My thought is to go ahead and strip the other two toroidal transformers and stack the cores on what I already have. Then, get some 5mm, or so, square magnet wire (insulated) and wind the thing with as many turns as can be wound. Taps can be made where necessary and/or the top can be surfaced and attacked directly like an autotransformer.

I have enough copper sheet to wind a couple of primaries, but am wondering if I should make the bobbins with a rim greater than the 1 inch that MM is using. (Chime in here, sir(s).) Let's say, two bobbins with 1.5 inch rims filled with thin copper sheet.

Another thought on winding the toroid: Take the #6 bare copper off, flatten it out some with a hammer, then cut lengths to mimic MM's use of the 1/4" wide stuff. The copper could be doubled up on each side, using four pieces per unit. (I'll probably have to come up with some more cores and try this too.)

So there's where I'm at, and suggestions are welcome. School is back in session now so my guys will be making bobbins and sawing the 8 foot bar of 3 inch stuff into core length material.

Again, I recommend visiting your local vocational/technical schools and making friends with the machine tool instructor. I've found them to be helpful and interested in having their students participate in alternative energy projects. Makes good press for them.

The down side is that you have to be patient about getting things done, as they have their own schedules and there is a learning curve there. Sometimes you get put on an advisory board and have to attend a couple of meetings a year. All good.

Keep going guys -

glenWV

[lota]

Fello Ufo,

use a 3 microfarat capacitor parallel to the kummutator.

Lota

[marathonman]

Winding

Wow really sounds like you have things in order. i really don't think you need such a large rim though but it can be trimmed if not needed.
as for the pounding the wire flat, i would not do that as it is not only a pain in the ass but it it really not needed. just use the wire as is but more winding's. even if you have to many winds you can always take away through the adjustment phase.

nice size core, at 5 inch cores that would give you 6 complete sets or what ever you decide.possibly distributing the last 6 inches between the primaries.??

good idea about the trade school, i guess i never thought of that.

Keep up the good work.

Been in bed for two days with the flu. really sucks.

MM

[marathonman]

Signal

UFOP;
The reason you are getting erratic behavior is what we talked about on the other thread about a week or so ago. your primaries and secondaries are completely saturated. try dialing down on the voltage and amperage to a small amount then work your way up. this was also verified from Doug as to the cause.

also according to the info i pm'ed you about that refers to your brushes. as he went through the same thing so i would heed the advice from him. the advice seams much more secure and heavy duty from what you are presently using.

MM

[Ufopolitics]

UFOP;
The reason you are getting erratic behavior is what we talked about on the other thread about a week or so ago. your primaries and secondaries are completely saturated. try dialing down on the voltage and amperage to a small amount then work your way up. this was also verified from Doug as to the cause.

also according to the info i pm'ed you about that refers to your brushes. as he went through the same thing i would heed the advice from him. the advice seams much more secure and heavy duty from what you are presently using.

MM

Good Morning MM,

Yes I got it thanks!!

And yes, absolutely I am having big time issues with the brush and its not holding tight at higher speeds, actually it separates from contacts(Amps drop to zero)...besides it was NOT touching two elements at comm.

I am working on that as I write here now...but the way to go here is with VERTICAL COMM-BRUSH...Period.

Many thanks and please tell Doug thanks for his correction to my set up


Regards


Ufopolitics

[marathonman]

Relay

Sure thing friend, i'll make sure he gets the message.

MM

[Ufopolitics]

The Reality on the System...

Thanks MM,

However, besides all mechanical issues, there is one fact that I would like You to also consult with Doug...

As you know I have tried with the only existing Two Regulated Power Supplies invented so far, switched and linear..and none will allow me to rise Volts at the requested rate...amperage I can easily dial it up...but not the voltage.

And this is because we need at least certain operational resistance within the exciting system...and it is not just about adding a resistor in between...that would not work, because I have tried it.

As Lota wrote (Thanks Lota!!)...I am gonna try a low (3-5) Mfd AC Capacitor between both comm terminals to N-S...maybe this will allow us to rise V...because Voltage would flash between condenser plates...i don't know...only testing will tell us.


Regards



Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Parallel Cap...

Fello Ufo,

use a 3 microfarat capacitor parallel to the kummutator.

Lota

Thanks Lota!!


I surely will try that...you think that will allow me to rise Voltage at PSU?

I am guessing it would need to be a non polarized or AC Capacitor...right?

And installed between both terminals out to primaries...right?


Thanks for the suggestion!


Regards


Ufopolitics

[lota]

Hello,
AC 400V. Capacity 2-5 micro. you have to test it.

lota

[marathonman]

N & S Com

UFOP;
since the signal coming from N & S are the same signal just a higher intensity than the other, what good would an AC cap do here other than being detrimental.
or am i just missing something here as i thought we were using DC.???

as for Doug, well that can be a hit or miss as to what kind of mood he is in. ill ask him anyways.

it would be much more beneficial if he was here to tell you, if you know what i mean.


MM