Figuera Device, Part G Continuum.( Serious Builders Only)

[Ufopolitics]

Primaries...

how are your primaries coming along ????

more parts came in today, very nice day.

MM

Hello MM,

Coming out fine...I decided to go with 1 1/2 In thick and same 4 in length...:

[IMG][/IMG]

Above pic shows the Six new ones versus the previous 1 1/4 In thick in the back...

I got the wire 14 awg...and am making all fiberglass spools plus making a center hole-thread to attach cores together, plus am planning to use my Lathe to wind them slowly one by one, so chuck from lathe will grab it from bolt...from a spool bracket I made a while back.

I am going to make three sets first (6 primaries plus three secondaries..so, still need three more that I will pick up tomorrow.

One thing I did was to measure resistance on whole 14 awg spool of ten pounds something...then calculate the total footage I have...and came out close to 800 ft.

One thing that I recommend is to do same thing plus measure your total feet on each primary...so you do not run short of wire...since I know we want to wind as much wire as we could on secondaries.

By the way, love that little machine you have to wind plus count...does it count ft or turns?

Where did you get it?

And related to my new PSU situation...I think I will be resolving that issue by adding a low (10) ohm power resistor of like 300 Watts on heat sink as a "Dummy Load"...which is much less of my total Wattage output to Exciter system I plan to use. (50VX5A=250W)...that way I believe I would be able to dial the required VA power with so low ohms at G and Primaries...let's see how it goes...parts would be coming next week Friday...I ordered like 4 Resistors.


Take care


Ufopolitics

[marathonman]

Think again

Yes, agree to disagree as any metal running length wise will disrupt the intended flow and rob power. do as you must but fore warned length wise metal needs to be non magnetic.
as the device you have is not even finished yet, conjecturing is left for the other thread.
i am curious as to the encapsulation though as that was not in my scope of research but would fall in to the same lines as the magnetic grounding effect or what ever the name you want to give it.

the length between the N and S end's are intended for a purpose thus not closed cored, can you describe that purpose and why Figuera designed it that way...?. i can but no one one the other thread can.

how are your primaries coming along ????

more parts came in today, very nice day.


MM

[Ufopolitics]

I'm not trying to trump you but i came up with this design earlier this year in my research of the interacting fields and their relationship with each other. all i can say is like minds think a like.
the fields from the cores interact with each other enhancing induction thus enhancing output.
of course this design is for round cores.

Yes MM,

It is ok, is just common sense applied here...gathering all magnetic fields together, since they are all aligned in polarity plus executing a common displacement.

any metal running perpendicular to the fields (length wise) will magneticaly ground out the fields and should be NON magnetic.

MM

Ahh sorry about that MM!...but a small discrepancy above -everything can not be about agreeing at all times right?-....I do not believe so...not "magnetically grounded" but instead, all Souths will blend together as One...Hence compacting even more the strength of all Norths Interactions displacement...

Like I said before, I have tested aluminum versus iron casing...and I would even add... that it could be even fully enclosed (360º) with iron for even more inner interactions strength within...These are N-N or S-S Properties already tested and developed by me.

[IMG][/IMG]

Above image shows Aluminum versus Iron Housings, with the same, exact arc magnets:

See the much more compact as higher number of inner lines inside light blue circle with iron housing?

See the loose as much less lines inside of aluminum housing?

Note the South Fields "Fuse" together denoted by red curves with iron?

Versus "Loose in Space" with aluminum...

And the result in output from Generator is Much, I mean Much Higher with iron than aluminum, of course.

But then again...only testing "the real thing" will tell Us which way would work out to be better...that simple.


Regards


Ufopolitics

[marathonman]

Wall Mart

You gotta admit that was pretty funny.
wow ! lucky you on the 3 and 4 inch wide copper, stuff cost a lot. if you use it don't leave huge core gaps at the end. seams you found a gold mine of a find.
your part G core looks fantastic, with that glass tape i wouldn't worry about the paint, up to you though.
yes it will be trial and error with the wide copper. can't even find calc for that wide of copper but less ohms the better.

try the 8 awg first as it is very cheap and readily available. plenty of head room plus those lugs UFOP used for his set N and S output are perfect for quick adjustments. turn them around and they work out fine. have a neighbor building to.

EDIT; here is a pic of the lugs and 8 awg wire i was talking about.



as for your weights, i think those are cast iron but their are many types back then.

yes it is a good thread, thank you, glad your here.

pic below is my primaries first layer of three. turning out just fine.



MM

[GlenWV]

update

Greetings all:

This past weekend, I removed the windings on the toroid transformer. It used several #14, or so, strands paralleled for the primary. That surprised me, but I've never torn one of these down before.

Failing to find brush holders, slip rings, or commutators at any of the local Walmarts forced me to go online and find some there. Those parts will arrive in the next few days. The FETs for the board that I haven't purchased yet were also ordered.

Only too late did I see Mr. UFOPolitics note saying that my core would be fine. While I had weather, I took another transformer outside and stripped it down. Pics below & on photobucket.

Then, I JB Welded the two cores together and wrapped them with glass tape. I will seal it with red insulating paint this weekend.

I need to pick up some #6 or #4 soft copper ground wire between now and the weekend.

MM has stated to 'keep the primary resistance low'. I do have a good bit of 3 inch wide copper foil and can get more from inductors that are sitting about.

Questions:
Is 3 inches wide enough for a primary?
I wonder how many turns to use? Any ideas?

This may be one of those 'wrap and play' things..... And, there are some larger inductors here somewhere. The copper in those should be over 4 inches wide. Could use all the copper from an inductor in each primary.

I have plenty of #14, so finding something to use on the primary won't be an issue.

Must check with my machinist friend and see if he has access to pure iron rod. Else, Graingers will probably have to do. (Unless Walmart has it.)

I keep thinking of the old window weights..... Are those things iron??? Made good trot-line weights, anyway.

Great thread here guys, great thread!

glen

[marathonman]

Bobbins

Yes they are really great, strong, light weight and absorb the resin just fine. i even helped my neighbor repair a door panel with it it's that good.

you can make ANY shape you want, very versatile and cheap.

after you cut the width, superglue it, then spread with resin, the next day it is easier to sand down before the ends are resined on. i have a mouse sander that made the job a snap.
I bought a shot glass measuring cup so i could measure out 1, 2, 3, or 4 oz of resin with reusable plastic quart cups. 10 to 12 drops of hardner per oz and your good to go.
i used three layers of resin and it worked out fine. eco cloth comes in 6 or 8 different collors and three sizes, pictured is the smallest.

everyone i showed them to are simply amazed at their weight and stregth.

have fun building them, i sure did.

MM

[Shadow119g]

Bobbins

Thanks MM!
They look to be about three inches wide, that is what I was planning on.
Sounds like a great idea! Inexpensive but non magnetic and strong.

Shadow

[marathonman]

Distateful

You people on the other thread are completely out of line , disgusting and distastful and have crossed the line.
I hope you ROT IN HELL.
all i have EVER done was push this device, what in hell did i EVER do to you to deserve this.
NOTHING BUT MAGGOTS.
complete disgrace to this forum.

MM

[marathonman]

Bobbins

Shadow;

You might want to take a look at my profile pics. i have bobbins construction pics there. i just picked up some more recycled cloth made from plastic bottles at Wall Mart. at 23 cents per sheet and hit with resin, it is so strong you can't crush it with your hands or head and it makes wonderful bobbins. resin kit from Lowes.

Just a thought

MM

[marathonman]

Winding Cores

The first pic is my so called water pipe the disgusting person on the other thread made a rude comment on. actually it works great for a winding tree keeping tension on the spool as to not despool. it is spring loaded so tension is adjustable. all bought from Lowe's or Home Depot. had to run to get new pully as the one installed fell apart.
second pic is winder and bobbin. i haven't finished winding the 14 awg yet. 3 layers in parallel for very low ohms. inter connects to part G are 10 awg.
third pic is shot of taps from part G to PNP Mosfet board. awesome connectors for the 10 awg interconnect wire.








Sure love my 30 dollar pawn shop camera.





MM

[Shadow119g]

Sounds like Hoover Dam!

To UFO
Sounds like Hoover Dam will be running in the back yard!
Fantastic!

Thanks MM for the heads up on metal I ordered some from another place today.
A lot cheaper but not ultra pure.
I am thinking that in 1800's maybe Iron wasn't that pure either?
I don't know. Ill see when I get them. they are 2" dia.

Shadow

[marathonman]

Core set up

i came up with this design earlier this year in my research of the interacting fields and their relationship with each other. all i can say is like minds think a like.
the fields from the cores interact with each other enhancing induction thus enhancing output.
of course this design is for round cores.

any metal running perpendicular to the fields (length wise) will magneticaly ground out the fields and should be NON magnetic. it will always take the shortest route if it can.




MM

[Ufopolitics]

Unifying and Strengthening Magnetic Fields Structure

Hello to All, and I hope that all your builds are coming out excellently well...

Now, after carefully analyzing the set up of our Primaries-Secondaries Cores, I have come up with the following structural arrangement, which I consider is the best and more compact set up...:

[IMG][/IMG]

I know that in the Figuera Patent He displays all primaries and secondaries in a straight row...and I will assume that he also did it -as he exampled current fluctuations by using resistors- for easier understanding of the Main Idea. However, Magnetic Fields work better when they are compacted in their original and natural Spheroidal Geometrical Shape.

Now, depending on the number of [Primary-Secondary-Primary] Modules we are planing to connect in our system...we could align them as IMG above...I only added Six Modules for easier understanding as not to populate image that much... but we could also add a Center Module as well.

But the Main issue I want to share with all of you here...is about adding a Backing Steel Plate at each ends of the two sets of Primaries, serving not only as the Main Structural Frame which will hold together all iron cores...BUT, MAINLY, because by doing this end plates we will be Super Enhancing the Magnetic Fields Strength by UNIFYING ALL the rear polarizations into just One Single Field.

This Iron Plates will generate a Common Spatial Magnetic Shielding in both ends, which, even being of the same polarities (say all South at both ends, since we are using N-N at Secondaries Intersections) these Spatial Shields will "embrace" all the Center Fluctuating North Polarizations...and by doing so...All our Independent Norths will be Highly Strengthening as Compacting their Repulsion Magnetic Fields Forces into One Huge Field...doing exactly the same Unison fluctuations but as just one displacement.

Normally, We are used to form "Magnetic Chains" between N-S as symbols of attraction...However, the reason I know this, without going in a broad magnetism spatial interactions explanation here...is because on my N-N Generator...which originally I used Aluminum holding structures...and it worked out fine...however, when I did the holding structures with steel...the results (Electrical Output) increased beyond normal spec's.

Now, the proper and simpler mechanical way to do this...is by drilling a not too deep hole on each end cylindrical cores center (ALL) and then Tap a thread to use a pretty strong and of the suitable thread size steel bolt, for easier dismantling and assembly.

Now, for the bolts in-between Primary-Secondary-Primary I recommend not to use steel bolts...but Brass, Bronze, Aluminum or any other non ferromagnetic material.

Spools containing all your coils could slide in-out as they would be also bolted together once all are assembled.

This way we will have a very strongly attached as compacted structure which will hold and absorb all the huge vibrations when unit is operating.

As a final "wrap" I also recommend to add long and strong steel bolts from Plate to Plate, which would also add more compactness to our builds...as would add even more magnetic strength to our Spatial Magnetic Shield as well.


Regards to All


Ufopolitics

[marathonman]

Quote;
"Oh, the power rotary switch?...easy, just walk into Walmart...go to "Inventor's Section" and find it right there...around $15,99 (American Special price)..."

OMG ! THAT WAS HILARIOUS.

sorry Glen.

EDIT;

Shadow;
the pure iron bar was from Ed Fagan and is rediculasly expensive. i would extremely suggest using transformer laminations. any transformer would do but the best in my book would be a three phase then disassemble, cut to needed length/width then reassemble. the only reason i am using it is i have it and can not afford anything else right now. when i bought it i was making 800 a week.

i found a company in Arizona that cuts shunt laminations to order but i have not recieved a reply.



MM

[Shadow119g]

Iron rod

Marathon Man could you give me your source for Iron rod?
Thanks
Shadow